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polynesian surfriding : menu

polynesian surfriding : 1769 to 1900.

Overview
This paper was originally prepared as a review of ancient Hawaiian surfboard design and construction, however its scope has been significantly expanded.
At this stage, several conclusions, some at significant variance to commonly published accounts by natatorial historians, are evident.

1. The earliest report/s of Polynesian surfriding are from Tahiti, circa 1769, nearly ten years before the celebrated Hawaiian reports.

2. The most detailed and dramatic report of Polynesian surfriding in the 18th century is by James Morrison in Tahiti in 1788.

3. While Polynesian surfriders probably rode mostly prone, they transversed the wave face, rode "in the curl'' and on waves ranging up to 20 feet.

4. Polynesian swimming, employing a deep overarm stroke and a vertical flutter kick and later adapted by Western swimmers as the Australian or the American Crawl, bears a direct relationship with surfboard paddling technique, in the prone position.

5. In the Hawaiian Islands, there were two distinct board designs based on their cross-section.

Depending on the local conditions and the available materials, both were built in an extreme range of lengths.
The Alaia or the Thin board was flat in cross section and generally wider.
It was more suitable for steep waves and, when conditions were suitable, riding in a standing position.
The Olo or the Thick board was elliptical in cross-section and narrower.
It was better in flatter waves and usually ridden prone.

6. In Thomas Thrum's the widely quoted account of Hawaiian surfboard building (1896), surfboards are said to be shaped from a single tree, similar to canoe construction.
While this may be the method for Olo construction, the (apparently) more common Alaia was probably shaped from a seasoned timber billet that was split from a log.
Unfortunately, this is not the only deficiency in Thrum*, and Tom Blake's assessment (1935) "I feel this to be the finest contribution on old surfriding in existence", is highly questionable.

- Geoff Cater, 30 September 2007.

Note: The present online publication lacks several important images, currently awaiting copyright clarification.
These are fully accredited in the text and further details are available on request.

uINTRODUCTION

1) I thought an olo was quite a long board.
Whatever the length of an olo board, it appears that it was ridden prone.

"In riding with the olo or thick board, on a big surf, the board is pointed landward and the rider, mounting it, paddles with his hands and impels with his feet to give the board a forward movement, and when it receives the momentum of the surf and begins to rush downward, the skilled rider will guide his course straight, or obliquely, apparently at will, according to the spending character of the surf ridden, to land himself high and dry on the beach, or dismount on nearing it, as he may elect.
This style was called kipapa."

- Anonymous: "Hawaiian Surf-riding."
Thrum, Thomas G. (editor) : Thrum's Hawaiian Almanac and Annual for 1896.
Honolulu, 1896, page 110.

"kipapa: nvi. Prone position on a surfboard; to asume such.

- Pukui and Elbert: Hawaiian Dictionary (1986) page 154.

John Clarke notes two interesting cases of olo use in a chapter entitled "Surfboards as Paddleboards."
The first relates the crossing of the Molokai Channel by King Kihapi'ilani.
Although John translates the Hawai'ian text as "surfed ... from Maui to Molokai," presumably the king paddled, and rode swells, while prone.
In the second example, King Kaikipananea paddled from Maui to Hawai'i "on a surfboard made of williwilli wood," probably an olo board.

-Kapa Nupepa Kuokoa, August 23, 1884, page 3.
-Kapa Nupepa Kuokoa, March 23, 1865, page 1.
in Clark: Hawaiian Surfing (2011) pages 37-38.

Chester S. Lyman gives a rare report of riding on what were probably the last of the royal olo boards at Waikiki in 1846.
The young chief's boards "are from 12 to 20 feet long, 1ft wide, & in the middle 5 or 6 inches thick, thinning towards the sides & ends so as to form an edge."
He has "the pleasure of taking a surf ride towards the beach in the native style" on the oldest board, said to be "one used by Kaahumanu."
Presumably, as a novice, Lyman rode prone, which was probably the common practice, given a board width of 12 inches.

- Lyman, Chester S.: Around the Horn (1924) page 73.

uCHAPTER ONE: THE DEVELOPMENT OF POLYNESIAN AQUATIC CULTURE

uCHAPTER TWO: POLYNESIAN AQUATIC LEGENDS

uCHAPTER THREE: TAHITI 1767-1900

u3.1
u3.2
u3.3
u3.4
u3.5
u3.6
u3.7
u3.8
u3.9
u3.10
u3.11
u3.12
u3.13
u3.14
u3.15
u3.16
u3.17
u3.18
u3.19
u
u
u Samuel Wallis, 1767.
Louis de Bougainville, 1768.
Joseph Banks, 1769.
Banks' Surfcraft, 1769.
William Anderson, 1777.
The Bounty at Matavai Bay, 1788.
Surfriding Conditions, 1788.
James Morrison, 1788.
Royal Tahitian Surfriding, 1788.
William Bligh, 1788.
George Tobin, 1792.
James Wilson, 1798.
Rev William Ellis, 1822.
J. A. Moerenhout, 1834.
G. F. Gordon-Cummings, 1886.
Henry Adams, 1891.
Tueria Henry, 1928.
Ben Finney, 1956.
Tahitian Surfboard Construction.
Endnotes
Appendix A: Maps.
Appendix B: Weather Reports.

uCHAPTER FOUR : NEW ZEALAND.

u4.1
u4.2
u4.3
u4.4
u4.5
u4.6
u4.7
u Introduction
George Anglas, 1847.
H.W. Skinner, 1888.
S. Percy Smith, 1921.
Elsdon Best, 1924.
Best on other aquatic activity, 1924.
Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, 1915.
Endnotes

uCHAPTER FIVE: OTHER POLYNESIAN ISLANDS.

u5.1
u5.2
u5.3
u5.4
u5.5 Introduction
Pitcairn Island, 1821.
Rapanui (Easter Island), 1847.
Niue, 1902.
Ellice Islands (Tuvalu), 1932.

The following chapters specifically relate to Hawaiian surfboard design and are the basis for an expanded surfriding analysis, in preparation.

uCHAPTER FIVE: REPORTS OF HAWAIIAN SURFBOARDS 1778-1779.

u5.1
u5.2
u5.3
u5.4
u5.5
u5.6
u5.7
u5.8
u5.9
u5.10
u5.11
u5.12
u Charles Clerke, 1778
William Ellis, 1778
George Gilbert, 1779
John Weber, 1779
David Samwell, 1779
Lt. James King, 1779
Lt. James King, (edited)1784
Locations
Surfboard variation
Comparative table
Analysis
Speculation
Endnotes

uCHAPTER SIX: REPORTS OF HAWAIIAN SURFBOARDS 1780 TO 1840.

u6.1
u6.2
u6.3
u6.4
u6.5
u6.6
u6.7
u6.8
u6.9
u6.10
u6.11
u6.12 Archibald Campbell, 1812
John B. Whitman, 1815
Louis Claude Freycinet, 1820
Jacques Arago, 1820
Bingham, 1821
Rev. Charles S. Stewart, 1825
Rev. William Ellis, 1825
Captain Byron, 1825
Frank J. A. Broeze, 1829
Theodore Adolphe Barrot, 1836
David Malo, 1838
Comparative table

uCHAPTER SEVEN: REPORTS OF HAWAIIAN SURFBOARDS 1841 TO 1890.

u7.1
u7.2
u7.3
u7.4
u7.5
u7.6
u7.7
u7.8
u7.9
u7.10
u7.11
u7.12
u7.11
u7.12
u7.13
u7.14
u7.15 Walter Colton, 1846
Chester S. Lyman, 1846
Reverend Henry T. Cheever, 1850
E.M. Parker, 1852
Charles Stoddard,1866
John Papa I'i, 1870
Charles de Varigny, 1870
Emile Bayard, 1870
Bird, 1873
Nordhoff, 1873
John Dean Caton, 1878
John George Wood, 1880
"Ellis" in James Greenwood, 1885
Mark Twain, 1886
Thomas W. Knox, 1888
Comparative table
Analysis

uCHAPTER EIGHT: REPORTS OF HAWAIIAN SURFBOARDS 1891 TO 1920.

u8.1
u8.2
u8.3
u8.4
u8.5
u8.6
u8.7
u8.8
u8.9 William Brigham,1892
Thrum*, 1896
Thrum* on the Olo
Thrum* on royal use
Thrum* on construction 1
Thrum* on construction 2
Thrum* on construction 3
Thrum* overview
Fornander, 1916-1920

uCHAPTER NINE: 1930 TO 1940
u9.1   Blake, 1935
u9.2   Blake on Fornander
u9.3   Blake on Malo 1
u9.4   Blake on Cook, Campbell, Rev. Ellis
u9.5   Blake on Malo 2
u9.6   Blake on Paki's boards
u9.7   Blake on Caton
u9.8   Blake on swimming
u9.9   Blake on Boulton
u9.10 Blake on Thrum*1
u9.11 Blake on Thrum*2
u9.12 Blake on Andrews and Brigham
u9.13 Blake on Images
u9.14 Blake on Olo Reconstructions

uCHAPTER TEN: 1941 to 1970

u APPENDIX A: COMPARATIVE TABLES 1778 to 1900.

uAPPENDIX B: EUROPEAN EXPLORATION OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN

1. Polynesian Occupation of the Pacific and the Development of an Aquatic Culture - to include the recent archaeological developments of Coastal Migration theory (2005) and evidence of complete Polynesian crossing of the Pacific confirmed by discovery of Polynesian chicken bones in South America (2007).
2. Polynesian Legends

polynesian surfriding : introduction

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