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"When Europeans
arrived in New Zealand they found that coastal Maori tribes were surfing
('whakaheke ngaru') using relatively uncrafted boards ('kopapa'), logs
('paparewa'), canoes ('waka') and even kelp bags ('poha').
The sport
was not as developed as in Hawaii but was a regular summertime activity.
Some tribes
in the Canterbury area were reported to have used boards that could support
up to three people." (1)
While it is not suprising
that surfriding was practised in New Zealand, given the evidence in the
rest of Polynesia, there appear to be no early reports that can be said
to parrallel those of Tahiti and the Hawaiian Islands in the 18th century.
In 1921, S. Percy
Smith indicated a search of the earliest journals of the European explorers
for such references may be fruitless:
"It has been
pointed out to me that nowhere in the literature relating to the Maoris
of New Zealand is
there any
mention of the use of the surf board among them." (2)
Discovered by Abel
Tasman in 1642?, New Zealand was the first Polynesian culture encounted
by European navigators and his, and many of the subsequent, encounters
with the Maori were confrontational and exposure to native culture restricted.
Unlike the Polynesian
centres of Tahiti and Hawaii, there appears little interest in trade with
the Europeans, possibly due to a restricted food surplus and continual
territorial disputes amoungst the native tribes.
Common maritime
knowldge indicated that the Maoris' major interest in Europeans was culinary.
By the time of European contact, Maori culture had entered a second phase replacing the earlier Archacic period following the voyages of occupation, circa 1100-1260 AD.
These second generation canoes of New Zealand were significantly different to other Polynesian designs and the use of the double-hulled canoe, which was certainly the craft of had largely ceased.
Big, double-hulled,
long-distance sailing craft were out of place in this new world.
They gave
way to craft that were generally single-hulled and paddled and were better
adapted to the coastal and estuarine tasks they had to perform. (3)
Hower, some remnants of the Archaic culture remained in the southern regions of the South Island and the Chatham Islands:
Versions of
every type of Polynesian watercraft were still being made and used along
those in-hospitable shores in the early nineteenth century.
There were
simple dugouts, five-part canoes (with built up sides and added end pieces),
outrigger canoes, double canoes and Taupo (bulrush) reed raft-boats with
raised sides and ends, called mokihi.
Each type
of craft was used for the purpose and in the place for which it was best
adapted - the mokihi, for instance, being constructed near and used on
inland lakes and rivers. (4)
4.2
The need and skills required to negotiate the surf zone were evident in
New Zealand, similar to other Polynesian practise.
George Angas reported
in 1847:
A fleet of
canoes, adorned as they often are, with the snow-white feathers of the
albatross or the gull,
and each manned
by a numerous band of paddlers, presents a singular and beautiful appearance;
gliding swrftly
over the blue and crisp waves, and lowering their mat-sails they dart into
the bay, and
run up on
the beach shooting like arrows through the white breakers. (5)
Anglas' comments on Maori recreation, unfortunately, were limited to juveniles:
They pass their early years almost without restraint, amusing themselves with the various games of the country : such as flying kites, which are formed of leaves ; the game of maui; throwing mimic spears made of fern-stalks, and sailing their tiny flax canoes on the rivers, or watching them tossed about by the waves of the sea. (6)
4.3
In
the summer of 1884 W.H. Skinner observed local Maoris from the village
Te Klturi on the Auckland-Taranaki Coast canoe surfing at the open beach
at the entrance of the Mokau River, which he documented at length in 1923.
(7)
The activity was
enjoyed by the whole community, both as participants and audience:
On arriving
there I found the whole population gathered, taking part in, or watching
and encouraging
the contending
parties, in a most exhilarating sport, or pastime, that was proceeding
at the mouth of
the river.
(8)
Skinner described the canoes, apparrently without outriggers, and the importance of selecting suitable surfriding condtions:
Two small handy
canoes, varying in length from eighteen to twenty-five feet, were being
used, in
each of which
were two paddlers, the steersman, and one in the prow.
The position
chosen for the "surf-riding " was ideal for the purpose, and here, doubtless
for generations past, the old time Maori had indulged in this sport.
This canoe
running had to be taken at a certain time of the tide - about three-quarter
flood - to fit in
with the locality
chosen (or similarly situated positions).
The condition
of the sea, too heavy, or insufficent break, also had to be considered.
This in fact
was essential.
On the occasion
I am writing about - January, 1884 - the day was beautifully fine, the
tide about
three-quarter
flood, and the sea compartively smooth outside, with an accompanying light
break or
rollover the
bar, a quarter to one-third of a mile seaward.
The bar had
the effect of breaking up and reducing the ocean roll to a negotiable size
for the small
canoes to
ride on, by the time the wave reached the "surfing" course which ran along
abreast of the
sand spit,
forming the north side of river bank in this locality. (9)
The mechanics of canoe surfing, expertly lead by the local chief Te Rangi (a man at this time about sixty years of age), were described:
I arrived on the
scene just in time to witness Rangi and his partner launch out for a "run."
Having got his
canoe into the desired position, he awaited a suitable oncoming roller,
just keeping a
slight forward
movement on the craft until the roll had approached within a few yards
of the stern of
the canoe, when
the steersman gave a short word of command, and the two plunged their paddles
into the tide,
and with a few powerful strokes got the required "way" on to enable it
to be taken up by
the roller as
it caught the stern of the canoe.
The rest was
left to the action of the wave, and the steersman.
The canoe, if
properly handled, was now rushing through the tide, keeping just roughly
a little short
of its own length
in advance of the wave, with a cascade of water thrown off from either
side of the
prow, its expert
hellsman as rigid as one cast in bronze, watching intently the gradual
curling of the
roller (the bowman
inactive, with paddle drawn in), until at the moment he judges the time
has come,
with a swift
twist or turn of his paddle (a movement so deft and graceful that it could
scarce be
detected by those
watching close at hand) the canoe was turned sharply to the right, the
wave
breaking as it
passed beneath its keel, and riding gracefully down the outter slope of
roller, turned
seaward to repeat
the manouvre. (10)
He noted that some of the surfriders included women and there was a likelyhood of mis-adventure, with wipe-outs a "great amusement of the crowd of onlookers":
Had the steersman
misjudged his time for turning by a fraction of time, disaster would have
followed,
and herein
lay the skill of the surf-canoer.
Rangi never
made a mistake in this respect, but time and again the other less skilIful
gamesters,
some of whom
were women, misjudged the time when the wave would break, and running on
just a
fraction too
long, were driven prow under and swamped, or caught on the turn by the
breaking wave
and capsized,
in either case the occupants of canoe receiving a thorough ducking, to
the great
amusement
of the crowd of onlookers.
The swamped
canoe was brought ashore, bailed and refitted, and set off again
with another pair of
"surfers"
to try their skill, or luck, in this exciting game. (11)
Critically, Skinner's closing comment, "Alas! that we were to witness such a scene ever again", emphatically implies that the canoe surfing he observed in 1884 was no longer in evidence, undoubtedly like many other indigenous practices. (12)
4.4 The earliest eyewitness report of surfriding in New Zealand is probably in 1921 by S. Percy Smith, who contrasted the lack of earlier references, noted above, with his personal observations and experience:
While the Maoris
did not use this form of amusement to the same extent as some other branches
of
the Polynesians-
the Hawaiians, for instance- it was certainly practised sixty to seventy
years ago,
and probably
is so still when the beaches are suitable.
I have myself
seen dozens of young Maoris indulging in the sport on the Taranaki coast,
and have
heard of it
being a popular amusement in the Bay of Plenty.
...
I can say
from experience that it is a most exhilarating pastime. (13)
Smith's claim that
"it was certainly practised sixty to seventy years ago" (circa 1855)
is possibly a personal recollection (Smith would have been fifteen in 1855),
if he was residing in New Zealand at this time.
At the time of writing,
Smith was eighty-one and well past his surfriding days.
The familarity with
Hawaiian surfriding may be the result of S. Percy Smith's Pacific travels,
but by 1910 a number of photographs of standing boardriding substantially
added to the available written descriptions and, often misleading, illustrations.
See Surfriding
Images : 1788 to Photography.
Furthermore, by 1915
surfriding was once again becoming popular in New Zealand, largely influenced
by developments in the surf life saving movement in Australia.
See 4.6, below.
His personal report
of significant numbers of Maori surfriders "on the Taranaki coast" is
on the west coast of the North Island, an area with an abundance of surfriding
locations featuring right and left reef breaks, Middleton Bay said to hold
waves up to 25 feet, and several river bar breaks. (14)
The boards were
narrow and apparently only ridden prone, Smith doubting whether they were
used for riding in a standing position and reports :
The boards
used were about six feet long by about nine inches wide.
One end of
the board was held at the pit of the stomach, with the arms extended towards
the other end, the hands grasping the sides of the board.
The performer
would swim out beyond the breakers and watching his opportunity as the
wave broke would be hurled along by the breaking wave into the shallow
water.
The game was
called 'whakaheke-ngaru', identical with the Tahitian name 'la'ahe'e-'aru'
(Fa'ahe'e?) for the same thing.
It is questionable
if the Maoris ever used boards so large as the Hawaiians on which a man
could stand upright.
(15)
4.5 In 1924, a contemporary of Smith, Eldon Best, briefly recorded Maori aquatic activities, including board, canoe and body surfriding:
In water exercises
the Maori excelled, like his Polynesian brethren of warmer climes, and
this was
seen in his
powers as a swimmer, his dexterity in surf-riding, and his fearlessness
in jumping from a
height.
...
Surf-riding
was practised both with and without a board, and also in small canoes,
both plank and
canoe being
known by the same name, kopapa.(16)
Variations on the word papa appear throughout the Pacific to indicate a slab or board:
In ... Maori, papa, “anything broad or flat—a slab, board, door, or shutter”; Samoan, papa, “board, floor-mat”; Tahitian, papa, “a board, seat, the shoulder-blade”; (17)
Also in Tahitian, papa faahee, "surfriding board" and Hawaiian, papa he naru, "wave sliding board".
Critically, in a parrallel report Best appears to indicate his information, unlike Smith, is possibly not based on personal observation and is comprised of oral recollections:
Young women sometimes joined the sport, and an old surfrider informed me that in his youthful days, he had seen thirty to forty persons so riding shore ward at one time." (18)
Without any other
knowledge of surfboard buiding in New Zealand, it is assumed that construction
corresponded to similar practices across Polynesia, although it must be
noted that the Maori encounted a substantially different flora, the dominant
construction timber being Kari.
See 3.15
Tahitian
Surfboard Construction.
Harvesting timber
certainly certainly followed Polynesian tradition:
For instance,
no tree must be felled without an invocation to obtain Tane's blessing
and without an offering.
Failure to
do so incurred divine anger. (19)
Tane was theMaori deity of the forest, the equivilent of xxx in Tahiti and Kane in Hawaii.
4.6
Other Maori aquatic activities, identified by Best, have parrallels in
other Polynesian cultures, in particular the learning of swimming at an
early age.
Unfortunately, Best's
description of Maori swimming technique ("the side-stroke") is unclear,
but certainly varied considerably from the breast-stroke familiar to European
swimmers.
This so-called
diving was really jumping, as the performer simply jumped off the height
and entered
the water
feet first.
The Maori
practised the side stroke, and looked with dislike upon the breast stroke.
Swimming races
(kau whakataetae) naturally formed a pleasing exercise, and children learned
to swim at a very early age.
...
Canoe races
('waka hoehoe' and 'whakatere waka') were recreations that appealed to
the Maori.
In the excitement
of a well-contested canoe race, with paddles as the motive power, the Maori
would
find one of
his keenest pleasures. (20)
Best writes that the attactions of jumping from a fixed height or from a swinging rope often entailed construction of specialized timber towers:
Where a suitable
place for diving was not available, a stout pole or ricker was set up in
a slanting
position and
extending out over the water.
Performers
ran up this beam from the earth, and jumped from its upper end into the
water below.
These kokiri
were supported on a stout post.
The moari
or morere, our giant stride, was sometimes erected near deep water, so
that when a player
swung outward
he could release his grasp on the rope and plunge into the water.
These exercises
had simple songs or short jingles peculiar to them, and which were chanted
by the
players.
(21)
4.7
Note
that by the time that Smith and Best detailed Maori surfriding, it was
once again becoming popular in New Zealand, largely influenced by developments
in the surf life saving movement in Australia.
The earliest clubs
formed in Australia around 1907 and New Zealand had an established clubs
by 1911. (22)
Contacts between
surf lifesaving and competetive swimming oganisations across the Tasman
led to Duke Paoa Kahanamoku repeating his swimming and surfriding demonstrations
in New Zealand after his record breaking visit to Australia in the summer
of 1914-1915.
See Duke
Kahanamoku's Australian Tour, 1914-1915.
Kahanamoku, with
fellow competitor George Cuhna and manager, Francis Evans, arrived in Wellington,
New Zealand on 24 th February,1915 and as well as several swimming performances,
he gave a surfriding demonstration with another self-made board (23),
on the North Island at Lyall Bay, Wellington.
Wayne Warwick records
visiting Maranui Surf Lifesaving Club member, Mr. J. Whisker's recollection
of the Duke's first ride (24):
The Duke paddled
out into the middle of the Bay in quite a heavy swell, tumed the board
around, and caught a wave and rode it until a short distance from the shore.
He then ran
to the front of the board so that it nosedived and he dived off into the
wave and bodysurfed the rest of the wave in. (25)
A second demonstation followed on the West Coast at Muriwai :
The 'Auckland Weekly News' reported that he also gave a surfing demonstration at Muriwai, on Auckland's West Coast, but it is not clear what sort of board he used or whether he stood up. (26)
There is a suggestion
of a third surfriding demonstration on the South Island at New Brighton,
Christchurch, but this may not have included boardriding.
In New Zealand,
similar to Australia, surfriding remained centralized around the surf life
saving clubs for the next forty years until the widespread adoption of
the lightweight fibreglassed Malibu surfboard circa1960.
2.
Smith, S. Percy: Note #305 The use of the Surf Board in New Zealand.
The Journal of
Polynesian Society
New Plymouth, New
Zealand.
Printed for the
Society by Thomas Avery.
Volume XXX Number
1. No. 117, March 1921.
Notes and Queries,
page 50.
Noted and quoted
in:
Dela
Vega, Timothy T. et al: 200 Years of Surfing Literature - An Annoted
Bibliography.
Published by Timothy
T. Dela Vega.
Produced in Hanapepe,
Kaui, Hawaii. 2004, page 58.
Initially based
on Daved Marsh's online database (The Water Log- not currently available),
the book was
compiled from contributions
of a worldwide group of over twenty surfriding historians and collectors.
3.
Lewis,
David: The Maori - Heirs of Tane.
Orbis Publishing
Limited, London, 1982, page 25.
Photographs by Werner
Forman.
4. Lewis: The Maori (1982), page 25.
5.
Angas,
George French: Savage Life And Scenes In Australia And New Zealand..
Being an Artists
Impressions of
Countries and People at the Antipodes.
A.H. & A.W.
Reed, Wellington Auckland and Sydney, in conjunction with Johnson Reprint
Corporation, New
York and London,
1967.
First published
by:
Smith, Elder and
Co., London, 1847, page 295.
http://books.google.com/books?id=6xPU4eeDF0oC&pg=PA1&dq=angas
6. Angas: Savage Life (1847), page 314.
7.
Skinner, W.H.: Surf-riding
by Canoe.
The Journal of
Polynesian Society
Volume XXXII Number
1. No. 125, March 1923, pages 35 to 37.
New Plymouth, New
Zealand. Printed for the Society by Thomas Avery.
8. Skinner: Surf-riding by Canoe. (1923) page 35.
9. Skinner: Surf-riding by Canoe. (1923) pages 35-36.
10. Skinner: Surf-riding by Canoe. (1923) page 36.
11. Skinner: Surf-riding by Canoe. (1923) page 36.
12. Skinner: Surf-riding by Canoe. (1923) page 37.
13. Smith: Surf Board in New Zealand (1921), page 50.
14.
Warwick, Wayne: A Guide to Surfriding in New Zealand
Second Edition
Viking Sevenseas
Ltd
Wellington, New
Zealand, 1978, the pages are un-numbered.
15. Smith: Surf Board in New Zealand (1921), page 50.
16.
Best,
Elsdon: The Maori As He Was: Maori Life as it was in Pre European
Days.
Board of Science
and Art, Manual No.4.
Wellington, New
Zealand, 1924, pages 131-132.
http://www.nzetc.org/tm/scholarly/tei-BesMaor-c6-2-1.html
Noted and quoted
in:
Dela
Vega et al: Surfing Lit (2004), page 36.
17.
Fox, Rev. C. E.:
Oceanic Comparatives.
Transactions
and Proceedings of the Royal Society of New Zealand 1868-1961.
Volume 42, Art.
I, 1909.
Communicated by
A. Hamilton.
Read before the
Wellington Philosophical Society, 5th May,1909.
http://rsnz.natlib.govt.nz/volume/rsnz_42/rsnz_42_00_000050.html
18.
Best, Elsdon: The Maori. (second volume)
Memoirs of the
Polynesian Society, Number V, Volume 2.
Wellington, New
Zealand ,1924, pages 91-92.
Noted and quoted
in:
Dela
Vega et al: Surfing Lit (2004), page 36.
Elsdon Best reprised his notes on New Zealand surfriding in two further publications in 1925:
Best, Elsdon: The
Maori Canoe.
Dominion Museum
Bulletin Number 7
Wellington, New
Zealand, 1925, page 326.
Noted and quoted
in:
Dela
Vega et al: Surfing Lit (2004), page 36.
"they use
also... a kind of surfboard similar to that of the natives of the Sandwich
Islands."
and
Best, Elsdon: Games
and Pastimes of the Maori: an account of various exercises, games and pastimes
of the natives of New Zealand, as practised in former times; including
some information concerning their vocal and instrumental music.
Dominion Museum
Bulletin Number 8.
Wellington, New
Zealand,1925, page 241.
Noted and quoted
in:
Dela
Vega et al: Surfing Lit (2004), page 36.
"Surf riding
'whakaheke ngaru' was conducted on a board termed kopapa by coastal tribes
with suitable shore line..."
The complete texts are yet to be examined.
19. Lewis: The Maori (1982), page 33.
20. Best: The Maori As He Was (1924), page 132.
21. Best: The Maori As He Was (1924), page 132.
22.
Kaler, W.F. (compiler): St Clair Surf Life Saving Club's Souvenir -
50th Anniversary 1911 - 1961.
Otago Daily
Times, circa 1962.
23. For the first of Duke Paoa Kahanamoku's boards made in Australia, see #100.
24.
Warwick is unaware of Maori surfriding and adds to the description of Kahanamoku's
ride:
"which was probably
the first wave ever ridden in New Zealand."
25.Warwick: New Zealand Guide,1978, the pages are un-numbered.
26. Williamson: Gone Surfing (2000), page 6.
Apart from the many
accounts from Hawaii, of course another centre for study is New Zealand.
As a start, I note
the following entries from 200 Years Surf Lit. (2004), page 95.
I assume that these
were contributed by yourself.
Also some data I
have pulled of the internet (accredited).
I have yet to source
any of these in hard copy.
Please note that
the quotations are drawn as widely as possible and not confined to specific
references to New Zealand surfriding.
In examinating surfriding
as one element of an aquatic Polynesian culture, accounts of maritime navigation,
canoe building and use, swimming and diving (both underwater and high diving)
may have relevance.
This approach is
evident in some sections of the Surfriding in Tahiti paper, noted above.
In the works cited
below, the report by Stephenson Smith (1921) appears to indicate that there
are very few (none?) accounts that mention surfriding in the 18th and 19th
centuries (Tasman, Cook, Banks, etc), despite his personal observations.
"It has been pointed
out to me that nowhere in the literature relating to the Maoris of New
Zealand is there any mention of the use of the surfboard amoung ...(transcrption
incomplete)
I have myself see
dozens of young Maoris indulging in the sport on the Taranaki Coast", page
50.
Any comments, advice
or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Geoff Cater.
New Zealand
Page 295
The canoes are elegantly
shaped, and elaborately ornamented with grotesque carvings, painted red
with kokowai; they
have elevated stern-posts, and carry low triangular sails made of raupo
(a species
of rush), and look
markably picturesque.
A fleet of canoes,
adorned as they often are, with the snow-white feathers of the albatross
or the gull,
and each manned
by a numerous band of paddlers, presents a singular and beautiful appearance;
gliding swrftly
over the blue and crisp waves, and lowering their mat-sails they dart into
the bay, and
run up on the beach
shooting like arrows through the white breakers.
Many of the canoes
that arrive at Waltemata from the Thames, will carry from fifty to ???ty
men who
all paddle together,
singing in unison some Maori ...
Page 296
... ?ing in measured
strain, may frequently be heard when the canoe itself is but a speck on
the waves,
and the distant
sound falls on the ear with a wild and savage effect.
page 307
At the present
day, migrations in the Pacific are very common: canoes containing frequently
a dozen
or twenty natives
have been met with at sea more than a thousand miles from the islands to
which
they belong; and
others, driven by the wind out of sight of land, are frequently carried
along at the
mercy of the waves,
and their crews drifted upon the first shores that may fall in their way.
Not long since,
the brig Clarence of Sydney fell in with a canoe from the Kingsmills group,
containing
a number of natives
who had been twenty-four days at sea, and knew not in which direction they
were drifting.
For my own part,
I am strongly inclined to suppose that the original stock of the Sandwich
Islanders,
and of the New Zealanders—for
they are evidently the same race, and of one primitive origin —
are descendants
of the ancient Mexicans; who either emigrated in then* vessels to the Sandwich
Islands (which are
at a comparatively short distance from the American coast), or were driven
thither
by the winds, in
consequence of getting too far out to sea to be enabled, with their deficient
knowledge of navigation,
to regain the American continent.
page 314
The children are
cheerful and lively little creatures, full of vivacity and intelligence.
They pass their
early years almost without restraint, amusing themselves with the various
games of
the country : such
as flying kites, which are formed of leaves ; the game of maui; throwing
mimic
spears made of fern-stalks,
and sailing their tiny flax canoes on the rivers, or watching them tossed
about by the waves
of the sea.
These are the most
favourite sports of these merry and interesting children.
page 320
In making their nets
and fixing weirs for catching fish, the natives are remarkably expert.
Eels are greatly
sought after in the deep streams of the interior; and crawfish are obtained
by diving.
Mussels, cockles
(pipi), the fish of the haliotis (pawa), and a variety of other shell-fish,
are used upon
the coast as articles
of food.
Page 131
In water exercises
the Maori excelled, like his Polynesian brethren of warmer climes, and
this was
seen in his powers
as a swimmer, his dexterity in surf-riding, and his fearlessness in jumping
from a
height.
This so-called diving
was really jumping, as the performer simply jumped off the height and entered
the water feet first.
The Maori practised
the side stroke, and looked with dislike upon the ..
Page 132
... breast stroke.
Swimming races (kau
whakataetae) naturally formed a pleasing exercise, and children learned
to swim
at a very early
age.
Surf-riding was
practised both with and without a board, and also in small canoes, both
plank and
canoe being known
by the same name, kopapa.
It is interesting
to see natives cross swift and deep rivers by means of treading water.
Making for the opposite
bank in a slanting, down-stream direction, they practically walk across
in an
upright position.
The breastpole (tuwhana)
was also used when a number wished to ford a swift, dangerous stream.
Native children
were encouraged to be fearless in the water.
Where a suitable
place for diving was not available, a stout pole or ricker was set up in
a slanting
position and extending
out over the water.
Performers ran up
this beam from the earth, and jumped from its upper end into the water
below.
These kokiri were
supported on a stout post.
The moari or morere,
our giant stride, was sometimes erected near deep water, so that when a
player
swung outward he
could release his grasp on the rope and plunge into the water.
These exercises
had simple songs or short jingles peculiar to them, and which were chanted
by the
players.
A curious incident
occurred at Rua-tahuna early in last century in connection with this swinging
practice.
In a local interclan
quarrel several persons had been slain, and their relatives, in order to
avenge their
deaths, erected
two moari at Kiritahi.
A song was composed,
the effect of which was supposed to be a dispelling of their grief, and
this song
was sung by those
who disported themselves on the swing.
Truly, the ways
of barbaric man are passing strange.
Canoe races (waka
hoehoe and whakatere waka) were recreations that appealed to the Maori.
In the excitement
of a well-contested canoe race, with paddles as the motive power, the Maori
would
find one of his
keenest pleasures.
"Surfriding on a
short plank.. was also indulged in; on the east coast both plank and small
canoe were styled kopapa.
The plank used seems
to have been shorter than that used by the Hawaiians."
<...>
"... then, selecting
a roller, he threw himself on the surfboard, grasping the fore end thereof
with his hands, and so rode racing shoreward on the roller.
Sometimes a rider
dispensed with his board, and rode with his arms outstretched before him.
Young women sometimes
joined the sport, and an old surfrider informed me that in his youthful
days, he had seen thirty to forty persons so riding shore ward at one time."
<...>
"...Surf riding
was practiced throughout Polynesia.
At Tahiti it was
called fa'ahe'e (Maori whakaheke) and horne, which recalls Maori horua
and Hawaiian holua, a toboggan. "
"they use also...
a kind of surfboard similar to that of the natives of the Sandwich Islands."
"Surf riding whakaheke
ngaru was conducted on a board termed kopapa by coastal tribes with suitable
shore line..."
"In Malagasy baba
is “a wall or fence in fortification”; Formosa, babas, “an earthen dam”;
Tahitian,
papani, “to block
up”; Mota, paparis, “wall of a house”; Maori, papa, “to close up or fasten;
the layers
or strata of rocks.”
It is from this
last that the idea of a slab may perhaps be derived, and so papa or baba
commonly
means “a slab, board,
anything flat.”
In Wedau, New Guinea,
baba means “slab, side of big canoe”; babai, “to build up with slabs”;
babana,
“canoe built with
timbers”; Maori, papa, “anything broad or flat—a slab, board, door, or
shutter”;
Samoan, papa, “board,
floor-mat”; Tahitian, papa, “a board, seat, the shoulder-blade”; Mangareva,
papa, “foundation”;
Motu, New Guinea, papapapa, ???-incomplete transcription.
Critically does not include Hawaiian "papa he naru", wave sliding board.
"Surl-riding (fakatu-peau) was never indulged in to the same extent as in Hawaii and riding standing was not practiced."
The island of Niue is located east of Fiji and west of Tahiti at approximately the same latitudes, the distance roughly 1:2.
Page 50
[305] The use of
the Surf Board in New Zealand.
"It has been pointed
out to me that nowhere in the literature relating to the Maoris of New
Zealand is there any mention of the use of the surfboard amoung ...(transcrption
incomplete)
<...>
I have myself see
dozens of young Maoris indulging in the sport on the Taranaki Coast, and
have heard of it being a popular amusement in the Bay of Plenty.
The boards used
were about six feet long by about nine inches wide... One end of the board
was held at the pit of the stomach, with the arms extended to words the
other end, the hands grasping the sides of the board.. <...>
It is questionable
if the Maoris ever used boards as large as the Hawaiians on which a man
could stand upright.
I can say from experience
that it is a most exhilarating pastime."
Hard Copy
Page 6
When Europeans arrived
in New Zealand they found that coastal Maori tribes were surfing (whakaheke
ngaru) using relatively uncrafted boards (kopapa), logs (paparewa), canoes
(waka) and even kelp bags (poha).
The sport was not
as developed as in Hawaii but was a regular summertime activity.
Some tribes in the
Canterbury area were reported to have used boards that could support up
to three people.
The arrival of missionaries
in New Zealand in the mid- to late-1800s led to many Maori becoming Christians.
Surfing was not as institutionalised in Maori society as it was in Hawaiian
society but concerns for religious propriety, as well as Victorian dress
codes, did permeate Maori custom and hasten the demise of distinctive Maori
aquatic activities, including surfing.
Page 24
At the beginning
of New Zealand prehistory only one design of adze and one kind of rock
were being used. These were of the generalized eastern Polynesian type,
and remained in use in New Zealand throughout the Archaic period.
The early adzes were
made of close-grained basalt or argillite-type rock, as were those of tropical
Polynesia. They had a low angle of attack, and a curved cutting edge so
that the blade bit into the wood at an angle of about 20 degrees in a slicing,
gauging stroke.
An angled butt prevented
the lashings that held the blade to the wooden haft from being scraped.
These were clearly
instruments designed to slice out long slivers of wood, to gouge out grooves,
but they were quite unsuitable as chopping tools.
These early models,
which have recently been uneathed in peaty swamps, were instruments par
excellence for the delicate shaping of dugout hulls, carved wash-strakes,
bow and stern pieces and outrigger attachments.
The later adzes
of the Classic Maori period were of coarse-grained gabro or sandstone-greywacke.
They were evenly
bevilled for chopping or splitting.
Heavy wood-working
adzes (or axes, depending on the mode of hafting used), their tough, coarse
raw material could sustain the heavy impacts of forest clearing, grubbing
up massive roots without causing damage.
Page 25
Maori agriculture
demanded powerful tools for forest clearance, for shaping heavy timbers
for fortifications and for digging kumara storage pits in hard ground.
The later Maori
did not, of course, lack canoes, but their function, relative importance
and design altered radically.
Big, double-hulled,
long-distance sailing craft were out of place in this new world.
They gave way to
craft that were generally single-hulled and paddled and were better adapted
to the coastal and estuarine tasks they had to perform.
The pre-European-contact
Maori had a very thorough knowledge of the properties of stone.
In Stone Age cultures
stone was the very stuff of life.
Stone tools were
needed to make canoes, houses, spears, bird- snares, harpoons, digging-sticks,
fish-hooks, nose flutes, carvings and virtually all else that supported
and enriched the life of man.
It is unlikely that
many people today possess nearly such thorough knowledge of the properties
of stone or skill at working it as had been mastered by the 'simple' prehistoric
Maori.
The Archaic phase
did not suddenly give way to the Classic phase in one dramatic transformation.
The processes of
change, that started in the north, were irregular in space and time.
In fact, in Te Wahi
Pounamu, the southern region where kumara would not grow, many aspects
of the old way of life continued right up to the time of European contact.
Perhaps the best
way to reconstruct a picture, though somewhat distorted by the passage
of time, is to look at the early nineteenth-century way of life of the
People of the Greenstone. !
Although the southern
Maori were by this time cultivating the frost-resistant European potato,
they had by no means abandoned their traditional, naturally occurring food
resources, nor gone over to year-round permanency of settlement.
Bushbirds, groundbirds,
eels, shellfish, seabirds and seals, found in their particular settings
and seasons along the coasts or interior, were still important in the diet.
Thls, for mstance,
was the seasonal cycle of the Ruapuke Islanders, whose inhospitable home
lies in the stormy Foveaux Strait between Stewart and South Island.
January and February
(the southern summer) they spent at home, harvesting potatoes and making
kelp bags as containers for preserved mutton birds (titi).
In March they sailed
to the Mutton-bird Islands off StewaTt Island, remaining there until May,
when they returned to Ruapuke with their haul.
In June they crossed
to the South Island mainland to hunt wood hen (weka).
In August they moved
further inland into the forests after bushbirds.
September found
them making their way up the Mataura River to Tuturau to gather lampreys.
Eeling activities
were extended to coastal areas in November.
Finally, in December,
the Islanders recrossed Foveaux Strait and returned to Ruapuke.
This southland of
New Zealand and the Chatham Islands, which retained Archaic features, can
offer a few more pointers to the life and the artifacts of the tropical-bred
eastern Polynesians, who showed their mettle in face of snow and savage
storm.
Versions of every
type of Polynesian watercraft were still being made and used along those
in-hospitable shores in the early nineteenth century.
There were simple
dugouts, five-part canoes (with built up sides and added end pieces), outrigger
canoes, double canoes and Taupo (bulrush) reed raft-boats with raised sides
and ends, called mokihi.
Each type of craft
was used for the purpose and in the place for which it was best adapted
-the mokihi, for instance, being constructed near and used on inland lakes
and rivers.
Page 33
Nevertheless, there
were some beliefs that were universal throughout Polynesia as well as New
Zealand.
For instance, no
tree must be felled without an invocation to obtain Tane's blessing and
without an offering. Failure to do so incurred divine anger.
So it was that,
when a man named Rata felled a tree without having obtained sanction, the
woodland spirits romptly re-erected it.
When Rata chided
them for having undone his work, they replied:
'Who gave you permission
to fell Tane to the ground?'
Rata was deeply
shamed and admitted his error, at which the spirit servants of Tane forgave
him and even went so far as to complete the canoe for him.
Page 58
The division of
labour between men and women was sharply defined.
Men felled trees,
burnt off fern and scrub, and loosened the soil for planting; women then
planted and subsequently cared for the kumara crop.
Fern rhizomes were
dug by men, collected and carried home by women.
Men usually snared
birds but women sometimes participated, being allotted the smaller trees.
Open-sea fishing
was men's work.
Women were .equally
adept at handling canoes, however, and thought nothing of bringing cooked
food out to warriors at sea, since the warriors could carry nothing cooked
on the sacred war canoes.
Men dove for rock
lobster and deep-water paua (abalone), while women caught fresh-water crayfish
and gathered shellfish in the inter-tidal zone.
Either sex might
collect berries, and women could help haul logs from the forest for house-building,
but not for making canoes.
The distinction
between men's and women's work being based as much on tapu as on physical
strength, women could have nothing to do with the building of meeting-houses
or canoes.
There were no female
carvers, tattooists or warriors.
Weaving and cloak-making,
on the other hand, were mainly feminine occupations.
Page 62
Canoes loomed very
large in Maori life.
The tribes themselves
traced descent from the distinguished ancestors of the founding canoes.
Although long-distance,
open-sea voyaging had been abandoned long before the Classic Maori period,
canoes remained indispensable for fishing, transport and war.
Simple dugouts, 'waka
tiwai', sufficed for general use on lakes and rivers.
The larger fishing
canoes, 'waka tete', which were sometimes up to 14 metres (46 feet) in
length, were used for off-shore fishing and coastal transport.
Freeboard was increased
by the provision of gunwale strakes, the seams being sealed with outer
and inner battens.
A bow piece with
a transverse washboard served to deflect head seas.
There was a stern
piece which was generally uncarved.
As with all Maori
craft, propulsion was mainly by paddle.
Sails, when used
at all, were of the extremely ancient Austronesian type, simple inverted
triangles made of plaited flax.
The war canoe, or
'waka taua', was of the same general design as the 'waka tete'.
But it resembled
it much as a hawk does a hen.
War canoes were
built from the magnificent kauri or to tara trees and were often 24 metres-(80
feet) long. They were the pride of the Maori and were among the most precious
possessions of hapu and tribe.
They were hedged
around ...
Page 63
with powerful tapu
and were, possessed of great mana. Upon the decora- tion the most accomplished
wood-carvers lavished'their greatest skill, and the carved bow and ,stern
pieces are among the Ernest examples of Maori art. Buck wrote with feeling,
'Manned by a double row of tattooed warriors with their paddles flashing
in perfect time to the canoe, chants of a leader standing amidship with
a quivering jade club, the speeding war canoe must have offered" an inspiring
yet awesome sight.'
71
The art of adzing
was regarded as the primary skill ofa Maori carver and the adze was his
most important tool. Adzes ranged from those with blades weighing around
100 grams (4 oz) to massive two-handed types with stone heads of 5 kilograms
(10 lb) or more. As mentioned earlier, the gouging adze of the Moa Hunter
canoe-builder gradually gave way to the wood-cutting adze of the Classic
period. A Classic Maori carving was begun by rough -dressing the timber
with a heavy adze, then smaller adzes took over the blocking-out stage.
The chisel took the place of the gouging canoe-building adze of the Archaic
period; the mallet and chisel were the fine tools par excellence of the
wood-carver.
There was a great
variety of chisels (whao) made of basalt or greenstone. Some greenstone
chisels were p.erforated at the butt end and worn by craftsmen as ear ornaments
when not otherwise in use. Whether this was a badge of office or a means
of-safe-guarding valuable tools, we do not know.
95
Skipping over a
rope swung by companions was as popular in New Zealand as it is with children
elsewhere. So was anything to do with water. Boys and girls learned to
swim early, sometimes assisted by gourd floats. Side-stroke, breast-stoke,
overarm and back-stroke were all used. Dives were always made feet first.
Body-surfing with or without small boards was a pastime for young people
on suitable coasts. Tob"oganning was largely a children's pastime, using
ti kouka leaves or wooden toboggans.
Page 96
Games of strength
and quickness such as running races, long-jump competItIons and wrestling,
tended to shade Into imlitary training.
Canoe-racing was
a sport for both sexes, especially obstacle racing, but racing between
the huge war canoes was a sport for warriors.
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