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1969
St. Pierre, Brian 
The Plastic Fantastic Voyage 
- Across the South Pacific with Surfers and a Camera
Coward - McCann, Inc. New York. 1969
Hard cover, 253 pages, black and white plates.
Review
2019
Santella, Chris:
Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die
1992
Saunders, Geoff and Richard:
Fun With Sport - Surfing
Illustrated by Kim Gamble
Lineup Pty Ltd
Po Box 522 Roseville, NSW 2069, 1992.
Soft cover, 32 pages, black and white illustrations.
Review 
Juvenile book with basic history, instruction and advice with puzzles, a quiz  and surfing jokes.
1874-1968
Scammon, Charles M:
The Marine Mammals of the Northwestern Coast of America.
Dover Publications, 180 Varick Street, New York, NY, 10014, 1968.
Originally published by
John H. Carmany and Company, San Francisco, and
G.P. Putman's Sons, New York, 1874.
Softcover, 325 pages, black and white plates and illustrations, Appendix, Index.
Review

See
1857 Charles Scammon: Rescue at Scammon's Lagoon.
1998 
Schiffer, Nancy N;  in cooperation with the San Francisco Airport Museums ; 
Photographs byDouglas Congdon-Martin : 
Surfing
Schiffer Publishing Ltd. 
4880 Lower Valley Road Atglen PA 19310 
Hard cover, 160 pages, extensive colour and black and whie photographs. 
Review
This beautifully produced book is essentially a photographic catalogue of an exhibition at the San Francisco International  Museum, October 1997 to February 1998.
The text is either short introductions or relevant quotations for each section.
Exhibits include a 1941 Oldsmobile (woody), boards, swimwear, trophies, books, records, magazines, posters, postcards and photographs.
The board photographs are excellent and often have accompanying close-ups of  markings, decals and fins. 
Major contributors : Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, J.&M. Ford, Dan Pincetich, Mark Renneker MD, C.R. Stecyk, Cary B. Weiss, The Greg Noll Family Trust, The Keating Family, LeRoy Grannis, Dr. J.H. Ball, O'Neill Wesuits, Gary Saxon - The Record Man. 
Australian Content :
1. Poster: 'Duke Kanhanamoku International Surfing Championships, 1968' - Nat Young Invitee. 
2. Magazine: Sports Illustrated, March 10, 1958'- cover story. 
3. Poster: Bruce Brown Films presents Surfing Hollow Days - includes Australia.
 4. Poster: Don Brown presents Have Board Will Travel 1963 - includes Australia. 
Pedants Corner
1. Photograph page 100 captioned Santa Cruz Surf Club, 1941; with glassed and finned surfboards, car with twin headlights and a skateboard, more likely mid to late 1950s.
2. Board captions do not include dimensions.
3. The inclusion of minature surfboard reproductions (pages 27, 37, 42, 76, 77 -all not dated and page 78, 1994), although useful in an exhibition, appear out of context in the book when transposed against a huge volume of original items.
1915
Schnack, Ferdinand John Henry:
The Aloha Guide: The Standard Handbook of Honolulu and the Hawaiian Islands.
Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 1915.

Internet Archive
https://archive.org/details/alohaguidestand02schngoog

See:
1915 Ferdinand Schnack: The Aloha Guide.
2010
Schou, Nicholas:
Orange Sunshine : the Brotherhood of Eternal Love and its quest to spread peace, love, and acid to the world.
New York Thomas Dunne Books 2010
Thomas Dunne Books/, St. Martin's Press, New York, 2010.
Paperback, 306 pages, black and white photographs, Acknowledgements, Index.
Review
Interesting.

Noted:
Page 80: John "The Farmer" Griggs and Hynson model surfboard in Kauai, circa 1967, (Melinda Merryweather)
It is highly improbable that this board appeared in 1967, at best possibly late 1968.
The tail appears unusual, but it is hard to draw conclusions given the quality of the image.

Page 212: The Mexican weed unloaded from the Aafie  quickly became famous throughout Maui as "Lightning Bolt."
The 70 foot wooden yacht the Aafie was purchased in the Virgin Islands with the intention of sailing to Pakistan for a load of Afghani hash, to be purchased with the funds from first smuggling a boat-load of marijuana (colitas) from Mexico to Hawaii.
The yacht unloaded her cargo at Hana on Maui in early 1970, but failed to complete the voyage to Pakistan.        .

2015
Seal, Graham:
The Savage Shore-
Extraordinary stories of survival and tragedy from the early voyages of discovery to Australia.
Allen & Unwin, Australia, July 2015.
Soft cover,  320 pages, colour plates, Acknowledgements, Notes, Bibliography

Review.
 In considerable detail, the book expertly examines the earliest European contacts with the Australian continent and its many offshore islands.
However, while Seal has established that "in terms of what is known and what can be reasonably argued, European occupation began long before the usually accepted date," (page 244) his contention that these largely inadvertent short-term visits could be reasonably said to be "settlement" is spurious. At this point, it appears that Australia was settled in a planned voyage by a functional social group, three times.
The first was on rafts around 50,000 BC, followed by the settlement of the northern coasts and Torres Strait Islands around 1000 BC in canoes, and for the third time in sailing ships in 1788.

Seal appears to carry some scars from an encounter with Post-Modernism, and his determined efforts to ignore or dismiss the achievements of James Cook is almost perverse.
After many accounts of the trials and tribulations of stranded or shipwrecked sailors on the savage shore, the story of the Endeavour's stranding and her successful re-floating and repair is simply reported as "encountering the Great Barrier Reef" (page 187).
 Later, Chapter 11 begins an account of the voyages of Matthew Flinders with the question "Was the Southland an island?"
This had clearly been demonstrated by Cook in 1770; for Flinders (and Bass), the question was "Was Van Dieman's Land an island?"

He finally gets to put the spear into Cook on page 248:
"When the British and the people of what he called Botany Bay did establish a workable relationship, Cook introduced them to rum and ship's biscuit, neither of which they cared for.
But when Cook chopped a tree with a tomahawk, they were greatly impressed and took the tool for their own use.(Footnote 5)"
There was no such "workable relationship" at Botany Bay; and the slander is at considerable variance with Seal's earlier account of the Endeavour in Botany Bay on page 187.
Not for the first time, it seems that the events of the stay at Endeavour River, have been inexpertly transcribed to the shores of Botany Bay.
To add further insult, the footnote is not to any primary document, but rather a secondary source, Bill Gammage's The Biggest Estate on Earth (2011).

In the conclusion, Graham Seal questions the implications of constructing history by collecting artefacts and attaching ever-increasing meaning to them; apparently untroubled that his own work is "the meaning" he has given to his own collection of artefacts (his selected documents).
2011 
Searle, Louise (Editor):
The Surf Girl Handbook - The Essential Guide for Surf Chicks Everywhere
Surf Girl Magazine in association with Roxy.
Orca Publications, Berry Road Studios, Berry Road, Newquay, Cornwell, UK, 2011.
Soft cover, 160 pages, colour photographs, Glossary, Index, [Notes on Contributors].
www.surfergirl.com
www.orcasurf.co.uk
Review
Introduction to surfing aimed at a female readership, with the usual topics.

Not the first Surf Girl book supported by Roxy (Quicksilver's female brand), see: 
 Linden : Surf Girl Roxy (2008).
1964 
Severson, John:
Modern Surfing Around the World
Doubleday and Company, Inc, Garden City New York.
Hard cover, 189 pages, black and white photographs, Glossary(Chapter 18).
Review
Impressive  work (for 1964), the mainbody (Part II) concentrating on a guide to West Coast (USA) and Hawaiian surf breaks, with brief notes on East Coast (USA), Mexico, Australia (Chapter 10), New Zealand, France, South Africa, and Peru. 
Surfing History (very brief) in Chapter 2 and design and alternative craft in Chapter 15. 
The  photography is of an excellent standard, including a large number by Louise Severson of  husband, author and the founder of SURFER magazine, John Severson.
Note: Cover shows Bob Pike at Sunset Beach, circa 1963.
Duke Kahanamoku at Freshwater : 1912
1965
John Severson
Learn to Surf
Jantzen, 1965.
Soft cover, duo-tone photographs and illustrations.
Review
A surfing instruction manual to promote Jantzen swimwear, written by the editor and founder of Surfer magazine.
Includes a basic glossary.

See:
John Severson: Learn to Surf
1967 
Severson, John:
Great Surfing
Doubleday and Company, Inc, Garden City, New York, 1967.
Hard cover, 159 pages, 65 colour photographs, 114 black and white photographs, Glossary.
Review
Although the book continues with the high standard of photography noted in Severson's earlier publication, the text is largely comprised of fictional stories and poetry that have severely dated.
Produced at the dawn of the Short-board Revolution, there is no indication of the changes in performance or design about to unleashed.
Of most intersest are the selections in The Good Old Days, pages 21 to 55, with some important historical photographs and some pertinent recollections including an interview with Duke Kahanamoku re-printed from Severson's SURFER magazine.
There are a number of photographs taken in Australia, mostly by John Pennings and Ron Perrott.
2014
Severson, John:
Surf
Puka Puka, Pa'ia, Hawaii, 2014.
Printed by Damiani, Bolonga, Italy.
Hard cover, 159 pages, black and white and colour illustrations and photographs, Forward by Gerry Lopez, Afterword by Drew Kampion.
Review
An extensive interview with John Severson by Nathan Howe covering his surfing career featuring his photography, films, magazines and art works which are illustrated throughout this beautiful book.
1984 
Shackelton, Roger; with Christensen, John :
All about Wave skis
Surfside Press 7 Dale Street Brookvale NSW 2100
Hard cover, 96 pages, 60 colour photographs / sequences, 35 b/w illustrations, glossary, directory of wave ski associations and clubs, index.
Review
Comprehensive instructional book with well presented sequences and diagrams, with some application to other craft. Design (page 62) and Construction (page 78) chapters are similarly informative, some limited historical information in  The World Wide Development of Competition (page 25).
1994 
Shaw, Stephen M.
Surfboard
Stephen M.Shaw, 733 Bishop Street, Ste. 170 - 497
Honolulu, HI 96813, USA.
First published as
1963 The Surfboard Builder's Manual, then
1971 - 1979 The Surfboard Builder's Yearbook, and
1979 - 1983  Surfboard
1994 Surfboard, with text in English and Japanese.
Soft cover, 64 pages, colour photographs, black and white illustrations, Glossary.
Review
Basic reliable guide to surf-craft manufacture.
Includes Raw materials used in surfboard construction, pages 1 to 5 by Gordon 'Grubby' Clarke, one of the pioneers of foam blanks in the 1950's.
The Basics and Disciplines of Surfing, pages 45 to 52.
There is little mention of surfboard construction and/or design history, and only brief notes on design principles.
Recommended for anyone contemplating construction or major repairs.
Duplicate Japanese text.
International Surfing February-March 1975.
Volume 11 Number 1, page 5.



2003
Shilling, Grant :
The Cedar Surf - An Informal History of Surfing in British Columbia
Transmontanus/New Star Books, Vancouver, 
Soft cover, 84 pages, map, black and white photographs, Glossary, Bibliography.
Review 
A rare publication from one of the more obscure surfing locations.
This copy courtesy of Jay Lewis, 2013.
2003
Slatter, Kelly, with Jason Borte :
Pipe Dreams - a surfer's journey.
Reagan Books
HarperCollins Publishers
10 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 10022.
Hard cover, 338 pages, black and white photographs, colour plates Appendixes (A:Kelly's Top Ten Lists. B:Contest Results), Acknowledgments, Photography Credits and Captions.
Review
Covering Slatter's career from gromet to six time world champion and return to the professional circuit.
2008
Slatter, Kelly, with Jarrat, Phil:
Kelly Slater- For the Love.
Chronicle Books 
680 Second Street, San Francisco, California, 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
Hard cover, 192 pages, colour and black and white photographs, Photography Credits.
Review
Largely avoids duplicating the "early" career, as covered in the book above, and documents his considerable success in his return to the contest circuit.
2009
Smale, Richard :
Swimming ... do it this way.
Learn your swimming from photographs 
Photographs by John Barlee.
John Murray, London, 1953.
John Murray, London, 1962 (second edition, 86 pages).
Hard cover, 261 pages, black and white photographs.
Review
Rishard Smale was an English swimming coach, his clear swimming and diving instructions augmented with extensive photographs.

The book is totally devoid of surfing content, however, in 1954 Smale noted:
During the latter half of the last century, with its developing world trade, mariners brought back tales of natives of the South Sea islands, lying on surfboards and kicking their feet up and down to get greater speed.
To meet the needs of competitive swimming, this new kind of leg kick, as practised by the South Sea natives, was adapted to the Trudgen stroke - its modification became known as the Trudgen crawl.
Many modifications followed as the result of swimming coaches' experiments throughout the world, which gave rise to such names as the "American crawl," "Australian crawl," 'Japanese crawl," etc.
These interpretations are no longer used, for the "CRAWL" is now universally understood and practised.

Trove
1954 'A Sport A Long With History', The Maritime Worker (Melbourne, Vic. : 1938 - 1954), 26 October, p. 8. , viewed 31 Dec 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article209326598

2009
Smith, Bob :
The Basics of Surfboard Design (What Your Shaper Isn't Telling You)
Know Surfing and Surf Better by Understanding the Surfboard Shape; Key to Surfboard Shaping and Construction, or An Illustrated Guide for Surfers, Shapers, Enthusiasts.
Copyright: Bob Imoff (2008)
Rembrandt Publishing House, United States, 2008.
Soft cover, 48 pages, black and white illustrations.
Review
Well intentioned and informative work, unfortunately plagued by less than rigorous definitions and explanations.
The chapter on length does not distinguish between bottom and deck length and retains the use of the misleading terms short and/or long board.
Basically, surfboards shapes, and the shapes of the breaking waves they ride, can be incredibly complex, and are always a function of the skill of the rider.

http://www.farbeyondsurfing.com/Surfing.html
2009
Smith, Ryan A. :
Planet Surf - History and Culture/50 Greatest Destinations
Thunder Press 
baker and Taylor Publishing Group
10350 Barnes canyon road, San deigo, CA 92121
www.thunderbooks.com
Soft cover, 176 pages, black and white and colur phototgraphs, Glossary, Bibliography, Credits.
Review
Fifty world wide surfing locations with colour photographs and maps attractively presented, interspersed with some basic sections on surfing history and cutlure.
2006-2016
Smith, Chas :
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
It Books, 2006.
HarperCollinsPublishers, New York, Nero, It Books, 2013.
Nero, 2016.
Soft cover, 247 pages, colour photographs on inside covers, Acknowledgements, Index.
Review
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime
  
2018
Smith, Chas:
Cocaine + Surfing: An Outrageous Expose
Hachette Australia, Kent Street, Sydney, Australia, 2018.
First published by Rare Bird Books, United States, 2018.
Paperback, 277 pages, Introduction by Matt Warshaw, Timeline, Acknowledgements, About the Author.
Review
A mildly entertaining ramble, largely focused on professional surfers' use of cocaine since the 1970s, culminating with the death of Andy Irons.
However, Smith's contention that surfing began in Peru (page 271) and it was subsequently exported to Polynesia (hence surfing and cocaine) is demonstrably incorrect; a regrettable example of  journalist's disease (don't let the facts get in the way of the story).
Fortunately, I did not purchase this book; this copy courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.
See:
http://www.historiadelatablaenperu.com/en/chapter1.htm

Also note:
Schou, Nicolas: Orange Sunshine : the Brotherhood of Eternal Love and its quest to spread peace, love, and acid to the world
Thomas Dunne Books - St. Martin's Press, New York, 2010.
and
Smith, Chas: Welcome to Paradise, Now go to Hell : a true story of violence, corruption, and the soul of surfing.
Various publishers, 2013-2017.
1996
Sobel, Dava :
Longitude - The true Story of a Lone genius Who Solved the Greatest Scientific problem of His Time
Fourth Estate Limited
6 Salem Road London W2 4BU 1996
Paperback edition 1998.
Soft cover, 184 pages, Bibliography, Index.
Review
A popular account of the development of John Harrison's maritime chronometer used to calculate longitude. 
Its effectiveness was emphatically demonstrated on Cook's second voyage to the Pacific, pages 138 to 151.
2003
Southerden, Louise :
Surf's Up : The Girl's Guide to Surfing
Allen and Unwin
83 Alexander Street, Crows Nest. NSW 2065. 2003
Soft cover, 223 pages, monochrome photographs, Appendicies.
Review
Extensive and finely detailed instructional book, with a focus on the female surfer.
Probably as good as any similar publication, it should not be ignored by male surfers. 
Written with a delightful combination of relevant facts and light hearted humour, for example page 48...
The embarrassment factor (or 'Does my bum look big in this wetsuit?)
 
 
 

This copy, courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.
2005
Southerden, Louise :
Surf's Up : The Girl's Guide to Surfing
Ballantine Books
A Division of Random House Inc., New York, 2005.
Soft cover, 256 pages, monochrome photographs, Appendicies.
Review
Extensive and finely detailed instructional book, with a focus on the female surfer.
Probably as good as any similar publication, it should not be ignored by male surfers. 
This American edition features mainland and Mexican surf breaks, pages 202 to 212.
Written with a delightful combination of relevant facts and light hearted humour, for example page 48...
The embarrassment factor (or 'Does my bum look big in this wetsuit?)
This copy ex-Brooklyn Public Library, Pacific Branch.
2008
Southerden, Louise :
Surf's Up : The Girl's Guide to Surfing, Second Edition.
Allen and Unwin
83 Alexander Street, Crows Nest. NSW 2065, 2008.
Soft cover, 259 pages, monochrome photographs, Appendicies.
Review
Extensive and finely detailed instructional book, with a focus on the female surfer.
Probably as good as any similar publication, it should not be ignored by male surfers. 
Written with a delightful combination of relevant facts and light hearted humour.
 
 
 

This copy, courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.
2007
Spacejunk and Quicksilver:
Art on Foam.
Spacejunk Grenoble
15 rue Genissieu, 38000 Grenoble France, 2007
Soft cover, 57 pages, colour photographs.
Review
A selection of decorated surfboards commisioned from some significant artists associated with board sports.
A similar in theme to 
Burgoyne and Leslie: Board : Surf Skate Snow Graphics (1998). 
Limited edition of 5000 copies.
This copy, courtesy of John McInnes
1968
Spinner, Stephanie:
Water Skiing and Surfboarding.
Illustrations by Irwin Greenberg.
A Golden Pocket Guide
Golden Press, New York, 1968
Hard cover, 33 pages, colour illustrations, Glossary.
Review
A junior instruction book with bold and bright illustrations.
2000
Sporting Life - Sport in Old Australia.
The Five Mile Press
22 Summit Road Noble Park Victoria 3174, Australia, 2000.
Hardcover, 96 pages, black and white photographs.
Review.
A collection of sporting oriented photographs from 1867 to the 1920's, regrettably with no identification of their source.
There are four  surfing related images:
Sly Brothers and boat at Manly 1907, page 59. 
Coogee surfboat race 1920s, page 61.
Manly lifesavers with reel c1910, page 63.
Motorised surfboard, page 65 
1992
Sprawson, Charles:
Haunts of the Black Masseur - The Swimmer as Hero.
University of Minnesota Press
111 Third Avenue South, Suite 20
Minneapolis MN 55401-2520, 2000.
Originally published by Pantheon Books, New York, 1992.
Softcover, 307 pages, black and white photographs.
Review.
An eclectic essay on the pleasures of swimming from a European perspective based on the authors personal experiences. .
Duke Kahanamoku and surfriding briefly mentioned on page 235. 
2014
Stanbury, Lee:
Advanced Surf Fitness
Orca Publications, Newquay, UK, 2014.
Soft cover, 208 pages, colour photographs, Index.
1867
Steedman, Charles:
Manual of Swimming:
 including Bathing, Plunging, Diving, Floating, Scientific
Swimming, Training, Drowning, and Rescuing 
Henry Tolman Dwight, Bourke Street, Melbourne
Lockwood and Co, London. 1867.
Review.

See 
1867 Charles Steedman: Native Swimming, Wave Mechanics and Surfboards
1963
Stevens, Fae Hewston:
Koronglea Holidays.
Illustrated by Ian Nimmo Forrest
Ward Lock and Co., London, Melbourne, Cape Town,1963.
Hard cover, 221 pages, black and white illustrations
Review.
Centred on the Dixon family's property, Koronglea, a big sheep and wheat farm in northern Victoria, this is one of five in the Koronglea series of Australian children's books, all illustrated by Ian Nimmo Forrest.
In the third book, Mr. Dixon and the boys Max, Hugh and Johnny visit Melbourne and then drive to Lorne to try surfboard riding.
Later that day they take the ferry cross Port Phillip Bay from Queenscliff to Sorrento and Portsea, returning to Geelong for dinner.

The surfing illustration on the dust jacket extends to the back and their are two black and white sketches inside.

See 1963 Fae Stevens and Ian Forrest: Surf Riding at Lorne.
2005 
Steyck, C. R. and Kampion, Drew :
Dora Lives - The Authorised Story of Miki Dora
T. Adler Books, Santa Barbara. 2005.
Hard cover, 137 pages, colour photographs, black and white  photographs, Chronology, Acknowledgements.
Review
1992 
Stell, Marion K. : 
Pam Burridge
Collins Angus & Robertson Publishers (Australia) Pty. Limited 
A division of Harper Collins Publishers (Australia) Pty. Limited 
25 Ryde Road, Pymble NSW 2073, Australia
Hard cover, 204 pages, 18 colour plates, 7 b/w plates, 2 b/w photographs, 4 b/w newspaper reprints, appendices, index. 
Review
Although the book has most emphasis on a professional surfing career, there are interesting sections on ‘Women of the Surf’ (pages 5 –11 : note Isobel  Letham), early surfing, surf culture (“Pam and the Passions” pages 93 – 101) and lifestyle problems (anorexia and alcoholism). Design features : mat, coolite and first board, backyarder 1975 (pages 19 –20); 2nd board, pseudo Lightning Bolt 1976 (page24); 3rd board, McCoy 1978 (pages  36 – 37 and adjoining plate); Geoff McCoy single fin intransigence 1983 (page 85); adoption of  trifin and move to Aloha / Greg Clough 1985 (pages 118 – 120). Interesting to compare this book with Tom Carroll’s biography that covers a similar period. Duke Kahanamoku at Freshwater : Saturday 6th February 1915.
 
 

 
1963 
Stern, David H. and Cleary, William S. :
Surfing Guide to Southern California
The Fitzpatrick Company, Box 565 Malibu, California.
Soft cover, 229 pages, extensive black and white photographs and maps, Appendix, Emergency Information, Miscellaneous Notes, Surf Shops, Tide Tables 1963-1964, Index.
Review
Possibly one of the first books as a exclusive surf guide - some other general surfing books have included a chapter on locations. Published the same year as  Ricky Grigg and Ron Church's Surfer in Hawaii : A Guide to Surfing in the Hawaiian Islands,1963  This extensively detailed guide sets a high standard that probably has not been equalled by subsequent publications. The inclusion of aerial photographs is unique. A hort History chapter is competent and the accompanying photographs are significant, for example George Freeth, page 17. Many important surfers are featured, including  George Greenough (page 32), Mickey Dora (pages 61, 98, 99), Phil Edwards (page 166) and Greg Noll (pages 126 to 128). A heathly sense of humor pervades the text, see page 71.
2011
Stranger, Mark:
Surfing Life: Surface, Substructure and the Commodification of the Sublime
Ashgate, Farnham,  2011.
Hardcover, 276 pages, black and white photographs, Bibliography, Index.
Review
One of several similar works from academia appearing in the early 21st century, unfortunately for this reader, in places it is almost indecipherable.
And, as Ralf Buckley has written elsewhere, many of these messages, once we find them, seem to be rather obvious; (and) none of these observations seem particularly novel or noteworthy.

After 248 pages, Mark Stranger concludes that he has argued that postmodernity provides an environment in which the self can become anchored in the shared transcendent experience of bodily practices that are the foundation for stable social formations.
Through interaction with the sublime in nature which risk-taking can provide, the self 'experiences itself' in communion with the world.
This transcendence is both a loss of self and an expanded sense of self, whereby subject and object merge in static experience.
The shared knowledge of ecstatic experience underpins the surfing subculture's social formations at the level of the band, tribe and nation. (page 249)

The discussion of surfcraft is limited to shortboards, longboards and bodyboards, and is occasionally less than rigorous:
Although (shortboards are) typically shorter in length than longboards this is not necessarily the case. (page 72)

Furthermore, the assertion that (all) surfers do not measure waves according to any recognized scientific method (page 93) is questionable; at least Peter Dixon (Men and Waves , 1966) and myself adhere to the Willard Bascom method.
 
 
  A Treasury of Surfing
 In a footnote relating to estimating breaking wave height  Strange

Publisher Notes:
Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society.
Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy.
With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.



 (page 249)

Compare and contrast:
Walker, Isaiah Helekunihi: Waves of Resistance : Surfing and History in Twentieth-century Hawaiʻi (2011)
Westwick, Peter and Neushul, Peter: The World in the Curl: An Unconventional History of Surfing (2013)
Warren, Andrew and Gibbson, Chris: Surfing Places, Surfboard Makers (2014)
Laderman, Scott: Empire in Waves - A Political History of Surfing (2014)


2002
Strickland, Ronald :
Growing Up Postmodern - Neoliberalism and the war on the Young
Chapter 9, Henderson, Margaret:
The Big Business of Surfing's Oceanic Feeling: Thirty Years of Tracks Magazine. (c1999)
Roman and Littlefield Inc., Lanham, Maryland, 2002.
Soft cover, 262 pages, Index, About the Conributors.
Review
This article effectively illustrates the selected use of documents to establish a pre-conceived thesis, not unusual in the Cuckoo-land of Post-modernism.
By concentrating on the changes in Tracks' content and focus over thirty years, Margaret simply ignores the massive expansion in the range of surf riding activities and the corresponding expansion in media coverage in the period.
Rather than exemplifying a narrowing in focus of surfing generally, this change in Tracks was principally driven by market pressures.
Whereas Surfing World of the late 1960s and Tracks in the 1970s covered a diverse range of surfing activities; such as skate-boards, catamarans, body-boarding, windsurfing, the modern Mailbu board, snowboarding, and hang-gliding; by the end of the 1990s there were numerous publications specifically marketed for each group.
In the next decade, Margaret could have noted several magazines exclusively produced for female surfers (a third wave of feminism?) and others replicating the worst elements of Witzig's Country Soul period, such as White Horses, Liquid Salt, Paper Sea and Foam Symmetry.
The pressure from the surfing's increasing coverage and exposure in the mainstream media, particularly television is, likewise, not considered.

In addition, there are several substantial errors.
The description of Captain Goodvibes as the beer swilling "clubbie" (page 144, with a footnote explaining what a "clubbie" is) is a comical misreading of the text, the good Captain's regular and copious consumption of cannabis clearly at odds with the then (and undoubtedly, the current) attitude of the surf life saving movement.

 
One further point- like many commentators, Margaret Henderson assumes that surfing magazines are read by their "readership."
In reality, a large number of those who purchase these magazines do not read, or at best quickly scan, the articles; and the influence of the journalists' words is often significantly over-rated, particularly by the authors themselves.
As Club of the Waves notes:
A surf magazine could sell surf culture and the sport without even the use of words, that is the power of surf imagery!

I strongly advise not paying the $16.50 fee to access the article as an inter-library loan from the Macquarie University library.
1874 
Stoddard, Charles Warren: 
Summer Cruising in the South Seas. 
Chatto and Windus, London. 1874.
London: Chatto and Windus, 1881.
An uncommon English version of Stoddard's classic about his travels in Hawaii and Tahiti, with illustrations by Wallace Mckay that appalled many ("repulsive and vulgar" - W. D. Howells) with their depiction of frolicking naked maidens.
The American edition contained no illustrations.
This second printing, seven years after the 1874 first Chatto and Windus edition, contains ten fewer plates, but the maidens have been retained.

1987 Edition (Cover image, right).
Stoddard, Charles Warren: 
Summer Cruising in the South Seas. 
Gay Sunshine Press Inc.
PO Box 40397 San Francisco CA 94140
Soft cover, 190 pages, six black and white illustrations, author's portrait.
Review.
A collection of stories from Stoddard's South Sea Idyls (1873), the English edition was titled Summer Cruising in the South Seas (1874), and The Island of tranquill Delights (1904).
Stoddard's 19th century work is noted for its homoerotic themes, fully discussed in Roger Austin's introduction to this edition.
See: 1874 Charles Stoddard : Surfriding in Maui, 1867.
1892-1901
Stoddard, Charles Warren:
A Trip to Hawaii
New edition, with descriptive introduction.
Published  by Passenger Dept., Oceanic Steamship Co., San Francisco, 1901.
Soft cover, 46 pages, colour and black and white photographs and illustrations.
openlibrary.org
http://openlibrary.org/books/OL25126558M/A_trip_to_Hawaii
Review.
A  promotional booklet published by the Oceanic Steamship Co., it was first printed in 1892 with black and white illustrations and photographs and was based upon a visit to Hawai'i by Stoddard in 1885.
Subsequent editions, the fourth in 1897 and a fifth in 1901, changed the cover and added illustrations, some of which were coloured.
These later editions featured a coloured illustration of a surfboard rider framed by Diamond Head and the 1901 edition included a black and white photograph of a native Hawai'ian holding a surfboard on Waikiki Beach, circa 1898.
In the introductory notes there is a brief mention of surfriding, in the original text Stoddard only refers to sea bathing.
There are some revelant descriptive passages of the island geography.

See Source Documents
1901 Charles Stoddard : A Trip to Hawaii.
1905
Strong (Field), Isobel: 
The Girl from Home - A Story of Honolulu.
McClure, Phillips & Co., New York, 1905.
Internet Archive
http://archive.org/details/girlfromhomestor00fielrich
Review
The step-daughter of Robert Louis Stephenson, Isobel Strong resided in Honolulu with her husband Joseph from 1882 to 1890, where she was a drawing teacher in the public schools was was known in the local art scene for her drawings and cartoons.
The novel, set during her stay, contains one chapter centred around a night surfing party held at Waikiki by the then king, David Kalakaua.
Chapter 16 has an account of canoe surfing and surfboard riding by "old Kaipo." 

See Source Documents
1905 Isobel Strong : Surf Riding at Waikiki.
2004
Sumpter, Rod:
100 Best Surf Spots in the world.
The Globe Pequot Press
The Insiders Guide, Guilford, Connecticut, 2004.
Soft cover, 229 pages, colour photographs, maps, tables.
Review.
A ..
1931
Slessor, Kenneth:
Surf - All About It.
1931.
No author, editor or publishing details in evidence.
One copy noted with a pencil annotation on page 
which appears to attribute copyright to "Slessor 26.2.31".
Soft cover, 50 pages, black and white illustrations and diagrams.
Review.
A jovial and enthusiastic promotional work for surfb-athing in a wide range of manifestations.
The author is not identified and two contributing columnists have the by-lines "Medico" and "Eve", the later advising on Beauty and the Beach, pages 27 to 29.
Profusely illustrated with black and white illustrations (some of high quality) and cartoons, the later the only apt description for the Surfing Map on page 49.
There are some black and white photographs, but these are only used in advertisements.
For surfboard riding extracts see Source Documents:
1931 Slessor : Surf - All About It.
2017
Surfing Australia:
The Best of the Best: Australia's Greatest Surf Photographers
Hachette Australia, 2017.
Hard cover, 256 pages, black and white and colour photographs, Photographers, Thanks by Andrew Stark, CEO.
Review.
Featuring the winners and finalists of the Nikon Surf Photo of the Year 2013 to 2017 in conjunction with Surfing Australia.
With an introduction from 6 x World Champion Stephanie Gilmore.
1926 
The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia :
The Australian Surf Life Saving Handbook 
Sixth Edition (Revised 1926)
Caxton Printing Works,
24 Jamieson Street Sydney.
Soft cover, 160 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Table of Contents.
Review
There is no mention or photographs of surfboards, these were not included until they became official rescue equipment in 1931.

Plans and Specifications for Surf Life Saving Boats pages 135-136.
 
1932 
The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia :
The Australian Surf Life Saving Handbook
Eighth Edition (Revised 1932)
JNO, Evans and Son Printing Coy.,
486-488 Kent Street Sydney, New South Wales
Soft cover, 263 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Index.
Review
Note :
Plan and Specifications (solid wood Alaia surfboard), pages 196-170
Instructions for use ofSurf Board,  page 170
Rescue work with Surf Boards, includes rules for Board Rescue Event, 
pages 172 - 173: and 
Plans and Specifications for Surf Life Saving Boats pages 150 - 154.
Also note photographs  : 
1. Propelling a Suf Board, page 83.
Possibly Claude West.
2. Many of the Australian Surf Life Savers are skilled surf-board riders, 
page 171
3. Riding and shooting the breakers on Sydney beaches, page 171.
4. Surf Boards and Riders, page 173.
Probably Palm Beach.
Note that there is no mention or photographs of Surfskis.
1938 
The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia :
The Australian Surf Life Saving Handbook 
Tenth Edition (Revised 1938)
JNO, Evans and Son Printing Coy.,
486-488 Kent Street Sydney, New South Wales
Soft cover, 287 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Index.
Review
Text highlights (same as 1932 Edition above) :
Plan and Specifications  (solid wood Alaia surfboard), pages 182 - 183
Instructions for use of Surf Board, page 183
Rescue work with Surf Boards, includes rules for Board Rescue Event, 
pages 184 - 185; and 
Plans and Specifications for Surf Life Saving Boats pages 161 - 167.
Also note photographs, three from the 1932 Edition (marked ##) :
1. Propelling a Suf Board, page 83. 
## Possibly Claude West.
2. Five riders and boards at shoreline (uncaptioned),  page 102
## Probably Palm Beach.
3. Surfskis (uncaptioned), page 180.
Early models - plus 26 inches wide with paddle ropes.
Not referred to in the text.
4. Showing surfboard "shooters" taking a wave, page 181. 
## Previously captioned ...Australian Surf Life Savers...
5. The Rubber Surf Float, page 267. 
Surfoplane carried by competitor in club cap.
Not referred to in the text
1947 
The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia :
The Australian Surf Life Saving Handbook 
Fifteenth Edition (Revised June 1947)
JNO, Evans and Son Printing Coy.,
486-488 Kent Street Sydney, New South Wales
Soft cover, 282 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Index.
Review
Text highlights, mostly reprinted from previous editions (marked ##) :
Specifications for making a Hollow Surf Board, pages 208 - 209. 
A variation on Tom Blake's Hollow Paddle Board 1937
Details and Specifications of Solid Surf Board , pages 210 - 211.##
Instructions for use of Surf Board,   pages 211. ##
Surf Boards and Surf Skis Rescue Methods, pages 211 - 213 ##
Surf Boards and Surf Skis Rules for Control by Clubs, page 213.
Surf Board Race Rules, pages 274 - 275.
Plans and Specifications for Surf Life Saving Boats pages 192 - 198.
Also note photographs :
1. Surfboard race start, uncaptioned, Plate EX page 275, 
2. Surfboard race finish, uncaptioned, Plate FX page 276, 
Both Manly, probably Ray Leighton.
None of the surfing photographs from the previous editions are included.
1955 
The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia : 
The Australian Surf Life Saving Gear and Equipment Handbook 
First Edition  October 1955
Issued by  The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia.
Headquartes : Sydney, Australia.
Soft cover, 248 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Index.
Review
Intensive equipment manual specifiying every concievable aspect of surf life saving work;including badges and pennants, pages 113 to 124.
Chapter II,Boat and Equipment is supplemented by photographs and plans in the White and Pink sections, respectively. 
Chapter III,Surf board, Ski, Canoe, Float and Flippers is supplemented by photographs and plans in the White and Pink sections, respectively. 
Note :
Drawing 21 : Plans of 14 ft. (wave) and 16 ft. (racing) Surf Boards,
page 171
Drawing 22 : Plans of 18 ft. Single Surf Ski, page 175.
Drawing 23 : Plans of 22 ft. Double Surf Ski, page 177.
Drawing 25 : Design and Measurements of a Rubber Surfboard or Surfoplane, page 179.
Special note: A strange mix of conservative analysis and highly accurate prediction ...
CHAPTER IX : THE FUTURE
"A review of present gear and its effectiveness under Australian surf conditions indicates there will be few, if any, revolutionary changes...The use of fibreglass ... for surf boats, boards and skis, are also a distinct possibility for the future." Page 67.
Australian surfboards would undergo radical change in 1956, with the introduction of the fibreglassed Malibu board by visiting American and Hawiian surfers in 1956.
1986 
The Surf Life Saving Association of Australia: 
Surf Suvival
Mason Stewart Publishing Ltd.
PO Box 746 Darlinghust NSW, 1986.
Concept and Text: Jim Bradley, Editor: Kirk Wilcox.
Introduction by Tom Carroll
Soft cover, 82 pages, black and white and  colour illustrations and photographs.
Review
Prepared in conjunction with the SLSA Surf Survival course in conjunction with the Australian School Surfing Association, the book details basic surf skills, self survival, first aid and rescue and rescuitation.
2007 
Surfrider Foundation: 
The Altas of World Surfing.
Harper Collins Publishers
25 Ryde Road, Pymble, Sydney, NSW, 2073, Australia, 2007.
31 View Road, Glenfield, Auckland 10, New Zealand.
Soft cover, 256 pages, colour maps and photographs, Forward by Mark Richards, Glossary, Web Links, Index, Acknowledgements. 
Review 
A global surf guide featuring the most recognised breaks prepared by a vast team of contributors.

The authorship of this work is difficult to ascertain, and it is also accredited to Forbes, Scott (Project manager, editor), see F.
 
2016
Sutherland, Barrie; Pennings, John; Sutherland; Mal; and Weeks, Bob:
Surfing in the Sixties
Foreword by Bob McTavish, notes by Andrew Crockett.
New Holland Publishers, London, Sydney, Auckland, 2016.
Hard cover, 320 pages, b/w and colour photographs.
Review
A excellent publication was put together by four surf photographers whose work regularly appeared in magazines of the era.
Importantly, unlike many retrospective books, a large number of the photographs have not been printed previously.
Surfing competitions comprise a major part and there are individual chapters on surf fashion, surf lifesaving and cars.
2011
Sutherland, Bruce:
The Stormrider Surf Guide Indonesia & the Indian Ocean
Low Pressure Publishing, United Kingdom, 2011.
Wilderness Press, United States, 2011.
Paperback, 144 pages, black and white and colour photographs, maps, Key (inside front flap), Index
Review
 Statistics on swell, wind, tide, and weather along with photos and maps are detailed for the various identified surf-breaks; along with information on meteorology, oceanography, and surf culture.
Of particular interest for the historian is the overview of surf culture on page 16 which details the earliest reported surfers to first ride some the notable breaks of the Indian Ocean.

2008
Swanton, Will:
Some Day - Inside the Dream Tour and Mick Fanning's 2007 World Championship Win.
Allen and Unwin
83 Alexander Street, Crows Nest, NSW, 2065, Australia, 2008.
Soft cover, 274 pages, colour plates. 
Review 
A profressionally written account of the 2007 world tour that follows the leading contenders as their results fluctuate.
Despite Mick Fanning being photographed and named on the cover, he only tends to dominate the last chapters as he progresses towards the title.
A refreshingly balanced account, at considerable variance to the standard surf media issue.

Compare and contrast:
Fanning and Baker: Surf for Your Life (2009).
1881
Swinton, William: 
Grammar School Geography - Physical, Political, and Commercial.
Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor, and Company
New York and Chicago,1881.
Hard cover, 118 pages, colour and black and white maps, black and white illustrations.
Review
The Evening Bulletin published Alexander Hume Ford's first extensive article on surfriding, "Riding Breakers", on 17th July 1908.
The brief introduction; at school in South Carolina, an illustration in his geography book invokes dreams of surfriding; almost reads like fantasy.
An etching of a Polynesian beach scene apppears in William Swinton's Grammar School Geography, published in 1881.
That year Ford would have been about twelve years old and probably was in school.
See
Surfing Images 1870 - 1890
Karst: Scene in Polynesia.
Swinton, William: 
Grammar School Geography - Physical, Political, and Commercial.
Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor, and Company
New York and Chicago,1881, page 105.
1982 
Symonds, Tom: 
Maroubra Surf Club - The First 75 Years.
Lester-Townsend Publishing Pty. Ltd. Sydney, 1982.
Hard cover, 103 pages, black and white photographs.
Review

For extracts see Source Documents
1982 Tom Symonds : Maroubra SLSC History.
  STOCKLEY, WILLIAM.O. ET AL. Improve Your Swimming the Most Comprehensive Book on Swimming Diving Water Polo Surfing Life Saving and General Swimming Matters Yet Published
Macky Logan Caldwell Ltd., NZ, 1931. pp 226
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Geoff Cater (1999 - 2020) : References - Books - S.
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