Source Documents
john severson  : learn to surf, 1965. 

John Severson : Learn to Surf,  1965.
John Severson : Learn to Surf
Jantzen, 1965.

A surfing instruction manual to promote Jantzen swimwear, written by the editor and founder of Surfer magazine.
Includes a basic glossary.
Jantzen was a regular advertiser in Surfer, usually on the prestigious back page and featuring Ricky Grigg.

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The Jantzen International Sports Club is dedicated to the advancement of recreational sports and to the development of sportswear designed specifically for sportsmen.
The purpose of this book is to give the new surfer a step by step guide to safe and enjoyable and surfing.
Jantzen, you'll be interested to know, practically taught the world to swim.

John Severson, editor and publisher of SURFER Magazine, has provided the expert's approach to surfing.
John is a member of the Jantzen International Sports Club, which has in it some of the world's most outstanding athletes.
Read this book carefully- Learn the fundamentals of surfing, and read carefully the section on safety and courtesy.
Then grab your board, your surfing Jantzen, and hit the surf...
A new world of excitement and enjoyment awaits you!
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Use your hands to

keep balance.
6) If you do get caught inside a breaking wave (and you often will) remember again to point your board directly into the surf and keep seaward momentum as the wave hits you.
If the waves are very small, lean back just a split second before the white-water hits, hold tightly onto the sides or rails of the board, pulling the nose of the board up so that it glides over the top of the broken wave.
If the white water is over several feet high, again paddle hard directly into the surf and just before the wave hits you, hold tightly onto the rails of the board and roll over, pulling the board on top of you.
This exposes only the bottom of the board and is the best possible method of rolling through the soup.
As soon as you feel the drag of the wave subsiding, roll back over, climb on your board and begin paddling again.
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8) Avoid riding into trouble.
Keep your eyes open and steer away from possible collisions.
Look back before you cut back.
Remember, you have much more maneuverability than the surfer paddling in front of you.

9) Try to retain your board to keep it from becoming "another loose one."
If, however, it appears that staying on your board might be more dangerous, dive away from the board- into the wave- off the front or off the back.
Never go oft between the shore and the board.

10) Whenever you take a spill and are being churned around beneath the surface, remember to relax.
Surfers have been held under for close to 30 seconds in the big surf of Hawaii and have made it every time.
You'll come up, so relax and save that valuable supply of oxygen.

11) When you're swimming shore-ward after a wipe-out, turn around constantly to keep your eye out for loose boards.

12) The man in the curl - usually the first on the wave - has the right of way.
Don't take off if you'll interfere with his ride - causing a collision or causing him to straighten out or lose the wave.

13) And again, paddle around the break.

Surfing helmets have recently been developed and have proven successful in medium and small surf.
We particularly recommend them in crowded surf conditions.

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Surfing Terms
To intelligently discuss surfing with other surfers we have supplied a few surfing terms that are more commonly used.
For a complete list of suring terms consult John Scverson's MODERN SURFING AROUND THE WORLD.

beach break- waves breaking on a sand bottom.
big gun- a big-wave board designed especially to ride the heavies.
channel- a deep spot where waves ordinarily don't break; usually used for paddling out to the surf.
close-out- when waves break all the way across a bay or normally safe channel, rendering n surf spot unridable.
When a spot is closed out, it is usually considered too big to ride.
curl- the breaking part of the wave, spilling over and creating a space between the main body of the wave and the spilling crest.
cut back- to turn back toward the curl or breaking part of the wave.
deck- the top surface of a surfboard.
foam- a chemically produced, hard-plastic, cellular structure that is shaped into a surfboard.
glassy- an extremely smooth surface or wave, usually giving off a glass-like reflection.
hang five-ten- five or ten toes over the nose of the board.
heavies- the big surf.
line-up- the point where the waves are consistently starting to break.
outside- (a) referring to any point seaward of the normal breaking point of the wave.
(b) an exclamation used to describe an approaching set of waves.
pearl- while riding, the nose of the surfboard goes beneath the surface and continues downward, usually throwing the rider off.

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pull-out- steering the board over or through the back of the wave, as to end the ride.
rails- the rounded sides of the surf-board.
set- a group of waves.
shoulder- the unbroken, tapering part of the wave away from the curl or white water.
Also used in referring to a surfer's angling ride, i.e.. "Look at that surfer's shoulder."
skeg- the fin or rudder of a surfboard.
soup- same as white water, foam, or froth.
stoked- excited or jagged- usually about the surf.
surfing trunks- a swim suit designed especially for surfing; made of heavy-duty fabric, double stitched, with a wax pocket in the rear.
Manufactured by Jantzen, of course.
surfer magazine- the magazine of the surfers.
swell- either one unbroken wave or all of the waves coming from one particular storm.
tail - the rear of the board to which the skeg is attached.
take-off- to launch into a wave; to begin a ride.
tandem- two persons riding one surfboard, generally a boy and a girl.
tube- the space formed by a particularly long or fast wave throwing out in front of itself; also known as a tunnel or pipe.
up- referring to the surf; the surf is up or big.
white water or soup- foam; the result of a breaking wave.
wipe-out- a loss of your surfboard; usually caused by the breaking wave.

Back Cover:


Volume 6 Number 3,
July 1965.

Back Cover:
Jantzen - Ricky Grigg

See: Dora Speaks

John Severson :
Learn to Surf
Jantzen, 1965.


Geoff Cater (2020) : John Severson : Learn to Surf, 1965.