Source Documents
dora : dora speaks, 1965. 

Mickey Dora : Dora Speaks Out, 1965.
Dora Speaks Out
John Sevenson : Beginner's Tips
Old Timer's Album.
Volume 8 Number 1, July 1965.

The magazine featured an interview with Malibu legend, Mickey Dora; the third instalment of surfer career profiles by editor John Severson.
Subtitled What surfers do for a living, the first was on Georges Samama, a maitre'd at a Beverly Hills Restaurant, followed by a an article combining Dr. Don James (dentist), Earl H. Mass Jr. (attorney), and Bino Lobo (Indian chief).
The Dora interview produced a significant response, the following edition
printing many letters critical of Dora and some decrying the editor's decision to publish.
Miklos F. Dora III commented: In view of the fact that it is impossible to explain the nuances of this to the idiots who read your rag, I will have to stick by the interview as printed.

Severson also contributed the second part of his Surfer Tips for Beginners article, with illustrations by celebrated artist, Rick Griffin.
The same year, Severson published
Learn to Surf, a booklet in conjunction with Jantzen swimwear.
Other articles include The New Hermosa Pier by Richard Safady, the results of the Surfer Poll for 1964, and the third instalment of The Old Timer's Album.

Also see:
Mickey Dora
Micki Dora : Authorative Small Wave Selctions, 1968.

Page 28
Mickey Chapin Dora : Surf Stuntman
He can walk a surfboard with the savage grace of a panther pacing a cage.
He's the Master of Malibu - and when he's hot, plenty of surfers say he's the best in the world.
He's a
movie surfing stuntman, a technical advisor on surfing films and a budding actor on the verge of what could be  a solid Hollywood career.
He's also surfing's angry man: nonconformist, outspoken, independent, unpredictable.
Every wave from Malibu to Makaha is consdered his personal property.
His name is Miklos F. Dora III, or to his friends, and not a few foes,- Mickey Chapin Dora.

Before talking about your movie career, tell us about your surfng career.
What career?
My personal involvement died in the late 50's when the introverts were pushed out and the phoney organized masses took over.
All the guys I started with are washed up.
Whoever's left are ugly and over rated.
The only thing left of my "career" is being persecured by cops and lifeguards, which are one and the same.

Where do you surf mostly?
When there is a movement, I take a few and I leave a few.
I never go further south than Synanon House or further north than Overhead.

How about the Islands?
How about it?
I'd rather go to Selma, Alabama.
There's too many hard feelings over there.

What spot do you like best in the Islands?
The Pipeline is rather delightful if I wouldn't spaz up on my left turns.
I could get stoked on the place.

Well, Mickey, you've ridden the Islands big surf and then gone back for more.
As a movie stuntman, didn't you do several planned wipe-outs in 20 foot Waimea Bay surf for the film 'Ride The Wild Surf"?
Planned or not planned.
Mother Nature has her own rules.
And I've been getting the short end.
In other words, my bottom turns usually end up on the bottom.

What it your usual price for movie stunt work?
I've got to compete with guys who do the job for free trying to make a name for  themselves.
To you, that means S.A.G. (Screen Actors Guild) minimum.
Between the chizlers and the enormous amount of stock footage floating around, negotation is difficult.

Miklos F. Dora III,
alias Mickey Chapin Dora.

Mickey with "Bikini Beach Blanket" cast.
Page 29

Mickey Dora surfs his home grounds of Santa Monica State Beach.
Photo by Peter Gowland.

Note: Either the negative has been flopped or Dora has reversed his normal stance.

Page 30

(If) Hollywood wants the job done right the first time, they should get the best and that's me.
If the producer won't pay my price, let him get the riff-raff.
In the long run, it's going to cost him plenty.

How dangerous is movie stunt surfing?
I've done some very difficult things like surfing through a pier with a camera strapped to my back.
Just one slip with 75 pounds of camera equipment and well - you've had it.
Surfing stunts depend on the vivid imagination the director has and, naturally, what the story board calls for.
Some pansy directors dream up situations not even Clark Kent could survive.
The great aggravation is trying to communicate with these people on what is possible and what isn't.
Seventy-five percent or1 the surfing public doesn't know what's happening in the sport, anyhow, so what's the difference?

You do more than just stunt work?
Yes, I'm a trouble shooter for the studios.
They get in trouble.
They call me; I get them in deeper trouble.
I also do character parts, but I'm usually not seen because I don't believe in looking over someone's shoulder and grinning in the camera.

What kind of parts do you have?
I've played outdoor parts in twelve different movies.
I go for the water skiing, snow skiing, motorcycling, sport car racing, you name it.
Nobody's ever asked me to do a Tennesee Williams bit yet, though.

You also act on T.V. don't you?
Sure, all the time.
I've got four current commercials shooting and a couple of character parts last year.

How do you like movie work?
I like the bread.

You've been accused of being ruthless on waves.
What do you say about that?
It's a lie.
I'm vicious.
Actually, these guys are thieves and they're stealing my waves.
If I get it first, it belongs to me.
It's like a football scrimmage and everyone's blocking and tackling and every once in a while, you go for the touchdown.
We're all pushing and shoving, jockeying for position and if I get the wave first, if I'm in the best position- then I feel I deserve it.
In Malibu we have certain problems.
These beaches up north are fairly crowded.
So, when someone catches a wave I'm involved in - when he takes off in front of me - well, he's stealing my wave.
He puts me in a position of either losing my board or going into the rocks.
So if he's in my way - well, he gets tapped.
And then I get the blame and people say I'm pushing my weight around.

Do any of these people you want to tap back?
Yes, it's a pretty bad scene.
In fact, I'm thinking of bringing my lawyer beach from now on.

Doesn't this sometimes strike you as a selfish attitude in view of how crowded surfing spots have become?
Well, it's a selfish world.

Well, what's your solution?
We should have had birth control twenty years ago.
It's too late now, them to Saigon.

Speaking of control, how do about the United States Surfing Association?
Who are these guys trying to kid.
I think there's a little senility in the board of directors.
Also, I think it's mostly a bunch of people who make a living off the sport: the surfing exploiters, photographers, manufacturers, etc.
So naturally they want to control surfing and this is the best way.

How do you analyze surfing today?
I don't spend my time trying to
analyze the surfing world, but I've broken down surfers into four categories:
(1) punks

"When a surfer takes off in front of me,
he's stealing my wave ... he sets tapped.
I'm thinking of bringing my lawyer to the beach."
Page 31
(2) kooks (3) the dedicated nothing and (4) the senile surf freak.

Who fits into these categories?
The Senile Surf Freak- he is the guy who is involved in surfing clubs and organizations.
He's involved in the United States Surfing Association and he's gotta be married- that's part of it, too.
If he's married, he's had it.
The Dedicated Nothing is over 25, too, and still trying.
He's still involved in surfing.
The Kooks - forget it, they're impossible.
The Kooks are the guys who get in my way - the ones who are stealing waves from me.
They're all thieves, taking my waves.
The Punks - they're the only ones we have left.
 They're the last hope of the sport, the young fellows, the bandits, "Hell's Angels," the independents.

Let's talk about the Surfer Poll.
How does that stack up with your opinion of the top surfers?
I'd like to have a recount.
By my count, I should be Number One, J. J. Moon, number Two, and the Malibu Masochist, Number Three.

Really, Mickey, these answers you've given cant be serious.
Well, I'll leave that up to the imagination of your comic book readers.

Mickey displays his skiing talents with Patti Chandler during the filming of "Ski Party."

Mickey Dora at Waimea Bay during the filming of "Ride The Wild Surf", when he was asked to take planned wipe-outs in the big surf.

Page 14
Surfer Tips Number 17
By John Severson

John Severson presents Part II of his Help for Beginners.
Read them carefully and learning should be speedier and more enjoyable experience.
Show respect and courtesy to advanced surfers and you wiII find that most will be glad to help through the learning stage.

Position, wave judgment and paddling skill are needed for successful surfing.
The beginner may find catching broken waves much easier as the white water supplies the necessary push to get him moving.
In catching broken waves position yourself on the board with the nose clear and slightly out of the water.
Face directly toward shore and take a few paddles before the soup hits you.
As the while water rolls into you, grab the rails of your board, lean back and hold tight.
After the initial push you may want to slide yourself slightly forward to stay with the wave.
At this point you are ready to stand up.

If your arms don't feel as though they have weights hanging on you and you feel like you have a few powerful strokes in reserve, then you should try to catch an unbroken wave.
Your position depends on the type of wave your riding.
If you are at a beach break where the wave breaks over a mild bottom, you can sit just about anywhere and its merely a matter of luck that you will be in the right spot at the right time.
As you become more experienced you'II be able to spot the waves and tell exactly where they're going to break.
Then you can paddle to meet them and thus get many more rides.
 If  your riding at a reef break where the waves consistantly break in or near the same spot then you should position yourself near the point of initial breaking and a little outside (seaward).
Always try not to interfer with others and if possible select the wave that has no one riding on it.
Positioning it mostly a matter of experience and expert surfers can spot a hump on the horizon and know almost exactly where its going to break.
Assuming that you've positioned yourself in front of an oncoming wave, you procedure in catching a wave is as follows:

Face shore and begin paddling before the slope of the wave or white water reaches the back of the board.
Paddle directly toward shore - do not paddle
on an angle.

Page 15

As momentum is gained you will pass the point where paddling will become a drag rather than a pull.
At this point you have almost caught the wave.
One of the most common mistakes made by the beginner is not taking an added stroke or two to get down the face of the wave before it gets too steep.
The tendency is to stand up at the first indication of a moving wave beneath you.
This is the reason why many first rides end with either nosing into the water at the bottom of the wave (pearling), getting dumped from the top of the wave in the while water (over-the-falls), or standing up after the wave has passed (most common).
As you move down the front of the wave - not yet-standing - it is usually necessary to arch your back, moving your weight toward the rear of the board.
This is to avoid pearling.
When the wave has been caught and pearling has been avoided, stand up by pushing up with your hands beneath your chest (some prefer holding the rails).
Use your hands to keep balance as you rise to your feet.
If the balance feels correct, remove your hands and stand up.
Once you feel correctly balanced, the faster you stand the less chance you will have for mishaps.
As you stand, one foot should be in front of the other- prefer­ably your left fool forward unless this feels unnatural.

If you should start to fall, try to fall on or along side your board, grabbing it as you do.
A loose board is dangerous as it may pop up and hit you or another surfer inside.
Holding onto your board
will also elimitate unnecessary swims.
If the wave is large and youre in for a wipe-out, you should dive to the inside (toward the wave) or away from the dirrclion of the board.
To stop the board step back or, if necessary, sit down and drag your legs.

Once you've mastered the technique of standing, you'll naturally want to begin turning and maneuvering your board.
Although there are many differ­ent styles of turning, they are all derived from the same basic maneuver.
By digging the right rear of the board into the water the board will turn right.
By dig­ging the left rear, you get a left turn.
To do this, one foot should be in front of the other.
This is the lead foot.
The lead foot is the balance foot; the trail foot the turning foot.
Keep most of your weight on the lead foot until a turn is desired.
A right turn is made by applying pressure with the trail foot on the right rear of the board.
A left turn is made by shifting the trail foot to the left rear of the board and applying downward pressure.
For a kick-out or a turn over the top of the wave, apply your weight through the trail foot on the rear of the board - to the right side if going right - to the left side of the board if going left.
Use your front foot as a guide as the board comes up and through the wave.
To accelerate your board step foot over foot toward the nose.
This is called walking the nose and is an extremely popular technique used by hot-doggers.
If the wave is breaking or the board is headed for a "pearl," back step (back peddle) foot over foot until rear control is regained.
Turns aree very valuable in regaining proper wave position as well as keeping the ruler from riding out of the wave.

Remember, surfing takes practice and the more time you spend in the water the better you'll get.
Be courteous to others and respect their rights and rides.

Pages 55-61
The Old Timer's Album- Part Three

Page 58

Tom Zahn and Joe Quigg... a couple of great surfers and paddlers.
Those new boards they use are really fast.

Tom Zahn '49
Joe Quigg '50

Mickey Chapin (Dora) and Benny Merrill, Trestles, 1950.

Volume 6 Number 3,
July 1965.

Bill Andrews, Blacks.

Back Cover:
Jantzen - Ricky Grigg


Geoff Cater (2020) : Mickey Dora : Dora Speaks, 1965.