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dora : authorative small wave selctions 1968

micki dora : authorative small wave selctions - 1968

This commentary by Micki Dora is edited from an article
Authorative Big and Small Wave Selctions
published in Surfing magazine, early 1968, Pages 19 to 25.
The images are from alternative sources.

Introduction :
In the past you've seen the results of a variety of poles (sic), so we thought it would be of interest to our readers to see how experienced and recognized name surfers would make a judgement about their fellow peers.
To accomplish this we divided the selections into big and small wave categories, then we chose two individuals who we thought could best express the viewpoint of the veteran surfers, and two to represent the newer breed. Greg Noll, who well represents the veteran big wave riders, and Jock Sutherland, one of the most progressive big surf riders of today, share their method of reasoning. In the small wave category, the unpredictable Mickey Dora calls on his experience to name the small wave riders of the day, as does the fantastic freedom rider David Nuuhiwa.

Small Waves
Dora
The revolution has started.
The era of good feelings is fast becoming a thing of the past.
Surfing is undergoing a polar change.
Leaders are now being recognized for their actions and movement, rather than their last Gung Foo Championship victory.
The emphasis is shifting with the new leaders.
Organized surfing is doomed.
It will continue to be run like a mail order type operation.
In the public's acknowledgement and comment on the top men today, it must also accept their views.
This obviously necessitates re-evaluation, and then reconstruction of the power structure.
In my area, the small wave medium, the difference is more pronounced.
My choices for the small stuff category are hereforth declared; win, place, show.

1. William Hamilton
At the head of the family is Cardiffornian William Hamilton.
Willy's style is so advanced. he conquers over the rest of the Babylonians.
Two paragraphs of thought patterns surely are behind each precise position.

Swami's, 1966. Photo/Stoner

2. John Peck
Runner-up on the current scandal sheet is that eminent statesman, John Russell Peck.
His awareness and cunning are akin to that found in the other top predatory beings, due to total participation of planning techniques.
He obtains unparalleled niches on waves.
English born and Hawaii bred: an unbeatable combination.
Pipeline, circa 1963 Photo/Grannis

3. Bobby Brown
In the third position is the late Bobby Brown of Australia.
In Bobby's life span, he rode with a fierce, driving style marked by radical turns of enormous magnitude.
The taking of this man from our midst, is surely a punishment for our sins.

Sandon Point, circa 1967 Photo/Eden

4. Bob Cooper
Batting in the clean-up spot is a virtual human travelogue, Bob Cooper.
Bob is always on the move, both on land, and particularly at sea.
Cooper thrives on utilizing the natural play of the board.
Through employment of this advantage, he is able to improvise beyond the average animal comprehension.

Noosa, circa 1963 Photo/Cooper

5. Kenneth Darchy
My fifth place projection is a relatively unknown primate, Kenneth Darchy.
Kenneth is currently executing an array of movement that far out-distances the currently acceptable vogue.
His performances are the talk of only a few knowledgable sea view area persons.
Positioning is the key to his success.
Photo/Unsourced

6. Reynolds Yater
Conservative, but classic, Reynolds Yater is reminiscent of another time.
A working, knowledgeable surfboard designer, enables him to harness many of Rincon's waves to the ultimate.
Fantastic.
He rides as if in a golden era. With supreme concentration, the dignity he projects is inspiring.

Rincon, circa 1960 Photo/Yater

7. Russell Hughes
Russell is my seventh place choice.
A fantastic surfer, he seems to belong in a scene from Camelot.
An honest in- dividual, his life is void of all deceptiveness, and this is reflected in his surfing.
Russell hails from Australia. and his spirit typifies that untamed land.
Broken Head, circa 1965 Photo/

8. Steve Haight
Occasionally one may stumble upon a silent person, whose only communication with the outside world is through his art.
This is Steven Haight, a South Bay surfer with a repertoir all his own; smooth but proud.
Someday he will be understood by the masses.
Photo/Unsourced

9. Nat Young
Nat's action in the water-wonderland speaks for itself.
No amount of smearing publicity could lessen the effect Young has had in the evolution of the small wave theory.
Nat free flows his way through the wave, clawing their faces.

Long Reef, 1968. Photo/Witzig

10. Midget Farrelly
Midget will deserve my humble comment, as he is a fine sportsman and a spokes- man for surfing.
I feel that he is largely responsible for the now widespread acceptance of Australian surfing.
He surfs smoothly and dexteriously even on a short board.
Noosa, circa 1968 Photo/

The Christmas Message reads....

From deep in the archives I wish you one and all a brain strobing
high holidays, and a prosperous new year, with a hundred times
less work and a thousand times more pleasure to groove on them
whats past. May the new year bring da white water over da land
and wash out all the oppressive concentration camp lifeguard
towers, then purifying our coast line by completely deluding of
every crazed, money mad, fenced out, and pathetic private beach
clique Mussolini type property owners. Then once again freedom
will be ours to express ourselves to the fullest extent of our
capabilities. Things are changing and it's all happening now
brother. Wake up and do what's needed. this next year will be
the critical turning point in our history one way or the other. You've
got to shake them up man before da san Andreas Fault does her
shaking for you. Sleep tight children for tomorrow we might
wake up dead. International Surfing
East Coast Edition, January 1968, Volume 3 Number 6, Page 5?

Mickey Dora : Malibu, circa 1963 Photo/Grannis

Mickey Dora : Sunset Beach, circa 1963 Photo/Grannis