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references : books g

2000
Gabbard, Andrea
Girl in the Curl : A Century of Women in Surfing
Seal Press 3131 Western Avenue, Suite 410, Seattle, WA 98121. 2000
Soft cover, 144 pages, 114 colour photographs, 2 colour illustrations, 30 black and white photographs, 1 black and white illustration, Timeline, Glossary, Resources.
Review
A worthy inclusion to surf literature, the only other book on women's surfing to date being Marion Stell's biography of Pam Burridge.
Andre Gabbard is the co-author with Greg Noll of Da Bull.
Some highlights...
1.Rare photograph of Duke Kahanamoku by Tom Blake, page 20.
2. Kathy 'Gidget' Kohner surfs inside Malibu, photograph by Warren Miller, page 33.
3. Pages 37 to 39 - Reprint of article by Jeff Duclos : The Women of Malibu
Originally published in Longboard May/June 1999.
Details the women who rode Matt Kilvin and Joe Quigg's lightweight balsa malibus, circa 1951 - The Girl Boards.
4.Joyce Hoffman cutback, Makaha, circa 1964, LeRoy Grannis Photograph, page 50
5. Lisa Anderson, Surfer magazine cover and caption Lisa Anderson surfs better than you, 1995, page 110.
6.Layne Beachley, 30 foot tow-in, Photo Art Brewer, page 114.

1960
Gabrielsen, M.A., Spears, Betty and Gabrielsen,B.W. :
Aquatics Handbook
Prentice-Hall Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J. 1960.
Hard cover, 202 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Selected References.
Steve Mitakis : Surfboard Riding, Chapter 15, pages 109 to 114.
Spanish translation published by Hispano Europea, Barcelona, in 1969 as:
Deportes Acuaticos : Natación, saltos, surfing, canoa, remo, esquí, vela, motonáutica, pesca.
Review

1984
Galton, Barry
Gladiators of the Surf:
The Austalian Surf Life Saving Championships - A History
AH & AW Read Pty Ltd, 2 Aquatic Drive Frenchs Forest NSW 2086. 1984
Soft cover, 122 black and white photographs, Australian Championships Results, Index.
Review
An detailed work true to it's subtitle, mostly concentrating on contest results, with some background information where appropriate.
Surfboats feature throughout the book, with occassional surfskis and boards.
Photographic highlights include:
Old and modern surfski ('Snow' McAllister and Michael Pietre), page 8.
Australian S.L.S.A. team at Outrigger Canoe Club, Honolulu, 1939, page 64.
Hollow boards at North Bondi, 1947, page 74
Duke Kahanamoku at Torquay, 1956, page 108.
US-Hawaiian team members (withpaddleboards) Torquay, 1956, page 112 (incorrectly captioned "first of the malibus").

Although the S.L.S.A. has concentrated on racing, many famous surfboardriders (Claude West, 'Snowy' McAllister, 'Bluey' Mayes,...Tom Carroll) appear in the text and/or results.
In May 2008, Ian Nicol forwarded the following:
"Barry Galton, author of Gladiators of the Surf, died this year in Jan or Feb on the Gold Coast. He and his wife Moyra were great swimming mates of my mother's and I saw them both occasionally.
I understand that Barry had written several books on surf life saving.
He was a journalist with News Ltd and the Gold Coast Bulletin for many years.
I think I still have a copy of his obituary from the Bulletin.
I have my mother's copy of the book."

1997
Gardiner, Robert (ed):
The Earliest Ships- The Evolution of Boats into Ships
Conway Maritime Press, London, 1997.
Soft cover, 143 pages, black and white photographs, illustrations and maps, Bibliography, Glossary, Index.
Review
An excellent book that is highly detailed and with intense analysis, however its focus is determinedly fixed on Northern Europe.

1972
Gardner, Robert:
The Art of Body Surfing
Chilton Book Company, Philadelphia - New York. 1972
Soft cover, 83 pages,13 black and white photographs.
Review
Probably unique.
Newport Wedge features prominently.
History in Chapter 2 (Duke Kahanamoku, Buffalo Kealana, Mickey Munoz).

Garran, Andrew (editor):
Picturesque Atlas of Australasia.
Picturesque Atlas Publishing Company, Sydney, 1886-1888.
Illustrated under the supervision of Frederic B. Schell, assisted by leading colonial and American artists.
With over eight hundred engravings on wood.

Published to coincide with celebrations of the centennial (1788-1888), Picturesque Atlas of Australasia was one of the most significant cultural projects in 19th-century Australia.
The project was the initiated by an American company, who established a separate publishing house, hence the contribution of "leading ... American artists."
The book was prepared by a host of writers, artists, academics, and politicians and the 1100+ engravings on steel and wood were among the finest quality engravings produced anywhere at this time.

Several images from the Picturesque Atlas of Australasia are reproduced in:
Aboriginal rafts and canoes, from 1770.

2005
Gault-Williams, Malcom:
Legendary Surfers: Volume 1 - 2500 B.C. to 1910 A.D.
www.cafepress.com/legendarysurfer/ 2005
Soft over, 358 pages, black and white illustrations and photographs.
Review

1990
George, Sam
Photographs by Aaron Chang
Surfing - A Way of LIfe.
Mallard Press
An imprint of BDD Promotional Book Company, Inc.
666 Fifth Avenue New York 10103. 1990
Hard cover, 128 pages, 132 colour photographs, Index.
Review
Large format book that covers large spectrum of surfing topics.
Of most interset is early history in Chapter 1 : The Sport of Kings, Chapter 2: the impact of Bruce Brown's Endless Summer on surfing exploration and surfing's relationship with Hollywood, Chapter 7.
Although Aaron Chang's photography is of a high standard, the almost exclusive use of his work is limiting when the text attempts to cover large areas of subject matter, although there is some historical material from other sources.

1992
George, Sam
Photographs by Jeff Hornbaker:
Surfing
Bison Books Ltd.
Kimbolton House
117A Fulham Road London SW3 6RL 1992
Hard cover, 112 pages, 132 colour photographs, Index.
Review
Most interest is Chapter 2 Birth of a Surfing Nation (pages 18 to 30) detailing the US/Hawaiian team visit in 1956 for the Melbourne Olympics.
Although Jeff Hornbaker's photography is of a high standard, the exclusive use of his work is limiting when the text attempts to cover large areas of subject matter, particularly when dealing with historical material, compare Nick Carroll : The Next Wave, (1991).
Very similar format to Sam George: Surfing - A Way of Life (1990) above.

Pedants Corner :
1."As (1964) world champ, Midget went on to become the first international surfer to win Hawaii's prestigious Makaha Championships (in 1962!)", page 23.
2. 1967 shortboard development ignores the significant contribution of Midget Farrelly, page 24.
3. 1977 MR twin fin development neglects to mention the early 1970sTwin fin and Reno/Fish influence, page 27.
4. Rodney Sumpter's career as an English surfer fails to mention that he leant to surf in Australia and was already highly competitive before returning to England in the mid-1960's, pages 98 to99.

1993
George, Sam (editor), Foreward by Shaun Tomson.
Photographs by Aaron Chang
Surfing.
Friedman/Fairfax Publishers
15 West 26th Street New York, N.Y. 10010, 1993.
Soft cover, 128 pages, 132 colour photographs, Index.
Review
Paperback re-print of Sam George and Aron Chang's Surfing - A Way of LIfe (1990), above.

2001
George, Sam (editor) :
The Perfect Day - 40 years of Surfer Magazine
Chronicle Books LLC
85 Second Street San Francisco 94105, 2001.
Hard cover, 168 pages, +150 colour photographs, 50 black and white photographs, several colour illustrations, Index.
Review
Ultimately this collection must be a disappointment, the task of compressing 40 years into a mere 168 pages a near impossibility.
The photography is to the expected high standard, however some photographs were not originally published in the editions as indicated, and in many cases the selected articles are abridged versions.

Apart from the difficult decisions as to what as in and what was out, there are no Surfer Tips, Design Features or World Contest Reports.
Where is the Duke Kahanamoku - Surfer of the Century issue, circa 1999?
Where is the full catalogue of Surfer covers ? - a selection only is provided on the end papers.
Selections are identified by issue number only, dates would have been a simple but significant addition.
Worst of all, this publication probably supplants the future possibility of individual volumes by decade that would have provided the scale to do such a project justice.

Text Highlights :
Page 10 Phil Edwards : What is Good , - access link for full version in History - Source Documents
Page 24 John Witzig : We're Tops Now
Page 27 George Greenough ,
Pages 32-33 John Witzig : The Challenge From Down Under / Bob McTavish ,
Published in Surfer Magazine Volume 9 Number3 circa May - June 1968.
Initially printed in SURF INTERNATIONAL Magazine
Vol. 1. No. 2 December1967 - January 1968 Page 9.
- access link below for full version in History - Source Documents
Bob McTavish : "LADIES AND GENTLEMEN AND CHILDREN OF THE SUN.."
Craig Stecyk : Curse of the Cumash pages 68-69.
Note : Apart from the articles, a companion volume detailing the magazine's extensive advertising features could be of similar interest.

2010
George, Sam (editor), Foreward by Shaun Tomson:
Surfer Magazine - 50 years
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street San Francisco 94107, 2010.
Hard cover, 168 pages, +150 colour photographs, 50 black and white photographs, several colour illustrations, Index.
Review
A retrospective in five selected themes (Travel, Surfers, Design, Performance, Culture and Photography) across fifty years of Surfer magazine.
Each section comprises essays by previous editors or contributors, richly illustrated with photographs spanning the period.
A somewhat more satisfying publication than The Perfect Day - 40 Years of Surfer Magazine, see above.

2006
Giacci, Madeira :
Elogio del Surf
Castelvecchi Publications
Via Isonzo, 25 00198 Roma
Soft cover, 216 pages, colour and black and white images, Glossary, Bibliography, Index.
Review
Italian publication with Italian text, with an expansive collection of images.

1999
Gilmore, Louise:
Queenscliff SLSC - 75 Years of Vigilance and Service.
1924 -1999.
Queenscliff Surf Life Saving Club Inc.
Queenscliff NSW
Hard cover, 156 pages, black and white images, Appendicies.
Review
For extracts see Queenscliff SLSC.

2008
Gordon, Michael with Beachley, Layne:
Layne Beachley - Beneath the Waves.
Ebury Press
Random House Australia Pty Ltd.
Level 3, 100 Pacfic Highway, North Sydney NSW, 2008.
Soft cover, 347 pages, black and white and colour plates, Supporting Cast, Contest Record and Awards.
Review
Covers Beachley's early life and professional surfing career with a large proportion dedicated to her family and personal relationships, particually her reconciliation with her birth-mother.

Copy courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

2011
Gordon, Michael:
Bells - The Beach, The surfers, The Contest.
Woolamai Publishing
62 rathmines Road, Hawthrone East, Victoria, 3123
www.woolamaipublishing.com
Hard cover, 264 pages, black and white and colour photographs, Results, Index.
Review
The book opens with four chapters covering the history of Bells Beach followed by chapters devoted to each contest winner from 1962 to 2010.
Featuring many excellent photographs by John Witzig and Barrie Sutherland, unfortunately for the aficionado, most have been published many times before.

2007
Grannis, Leroy:
Photographs
Edited by Jim Heinmann
Taschen GmbH
Hohenzollernring 53, D-50672 Koln.
Hard cover, 276 pages, extensive black and white and colour photographs, text in English, German and French.
Review.
Excellent overview of one of the era's outstanding surfing photographers.

1863
Greenwood, James:
Curiosities of Savage Life.
S.O. Beeton, London, 1863.

Hathi Trust Digital Library
http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3426244

Review
Reprinted as The Wild Man at Home in 1885, see below.

See Source Documents:
1863 James Greenwood : Surfriding in Hawaii and Tahiti.
Page 96 (illustration by Harden S. Melville) and page 110 (quoting Rev. Ellis).

1885
Greenwood, James:
The Wild Man at Home: or, Pictures of Life in Savage Lands
Ward, Lock, and Co.,
Warwick House, Dorset Buildings, Salsbury Square, E.C. 1885.
Woodcuts and design by Harden S. Melville.
Engraved by Newsom Woods.
Hard cover, pages
Review
Reprint of Curiosities of Savage Life (1863), see above.

See Source Documents:
1863 James Greenwood : Surfriding in Hawaii and Tahiti.
Page 96 (illustration by Harden S. Melville) and page 110 (quoting Rev. Ellis).

1963
Grigg, Ricky and Church, Ron :
Surfer in Hawaii :
A Guide to Surfing in the Hawaiian Islands
John Severson Publications
Dana Point, California
Soft cover, 67 pages, duotone photographs, black and white photographs, one map.
Review

1998
Grigg, Ricky:
Big Surf, Deep Dives and the Islands - My Life in The Ocean.
Editions Limited
PO Box 10150 Honolulu, Hawai'i 96816, 1998.
Soft cover, 179 pages, black and white and colour photographs and illustrations,Chronology, Name Index.
Review
Ricky Grigg's work stands out as an unique combination of big wave surfriding and oceanography, based on extensive and intensive personal experience.
One interesing example is his calculations that indicate the largest swells to reach the southern shores of Ohau are in the range "15 feet or at the most 18 feet", disputing early accounts reporting larger waves, pages 86, 87, 88 and 89 (Sidebars).
Note that on the page 87 (main text) he notes the various methods of estimating breaking wave height and (apparently) endorses a calculation "from crest to trough".
See Bascom: Esimating Breaking Wave Height (1964).
Furthermore, some photographic evidence possibly moderates Grigg's contention.
See Holmes: Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108.
Unfortunately, a brief account of surfriding dynamics (page 82, Sidebar) is rudimentary.

2002
Griggs, Matt :
Surfers : A line-up of surfing's most inspirational characters.
Harper Sports
Harper Collins Publishers
25 Ryde Road Pymble, Sydney NSW 2073 Australia. 2002
Soft cover, 269 pages,
Review
The majority of surfing's most inspirational chacters rip in the surf, earn heaps of money, drive hot cars, drink beer/do yoga, attract numerous women, and all their mates think they are great.
Their mates are, invariably, also one of surfing's most inspirational chacters.
The most interesting profiles are Peter Troy, David Guiney, John Frank (all non pro-surfers), Lane Beachley and unknown pro-competitor, Wade Glassock.
The entries for Occy and Rabbit add little to previously published work - they both have their own books, coincidentally advertised in the back pages of this book.
The author is a former pro-surfer and Tracks magazine editor/journalist, and it shows.
In surfing's long history, the achievements of most of the surfers in this book are virtually insignificant. Even the dramatic surfing performance of Kelly Slater (who apparently declined an interview) appears modest, when compared with the contributions of Duke Kahanamoku.
The mis-spelling of Kahanamoku, page 261, .is most unfortunate.

2002
Griggs, Matt :
A Wave Away : A line-up of surfing's most amazing locations.
Harper Sports
Harper Collins Publishers
25 Ryde Road Pymble, Sydney NSW 2073 Australia. 2002
Soft cover, 295 pages, black and white photographs, colour plates.
Review
Rather than a guide to the world's surfing locations, Griggs relates his personal experiences and observations at some famous, and some obscure, surf breaks.

1982
Grissim, John :
Pure Stoke
Harper Colophon Books
Harper and Row, Publishers Inc.,
10 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 100022. 1982
Soft cover, 159 pages, 45 black and white photographhs, Glossary.
Review
Well written book that covers a wide range of topics and surfing identities
Noted surfers include Shaun Thomson, George Greenough, Nat Young and Micki Dora.
Many of the photographs are rare and of high quality.
Minor blemish - unfortunately Shaun at OTW, page 109, is flopped, that is he is a goofy riding a left hander

1976
Gross, M. Grant :
The Ocean World
The John Hopkins University
Charles E. Merrill Publishing Company
A Bell and Howell Company, Columbus, Ohio 43216. 1976
Soft cover, 106 pages, 10 b/w photographs, 53 b/w illustrations / maps / graphs, glossary, bibliography, index.
Review
An academic work prepared as a textbook, each chapter includes Learning Objectives, Exercises, Questions etc.
Module 3 : Waves, Tides, and Shoreline Processes is of most interest to the surfing reader. If you have ever wondered how a moderately stratified estuary differs from a salt wedge estuary then the answer is probably in this book.

1979
Grubb, Jake (text and photographs) :
Hobie Cat Sailing
A Grubbstake Ltd. Book
Published by Airglide Publications, Long Beach California.1979.

Soft cover, 310 pages , extensive black and white photographs and illustrations, Contributions.
Review
A detailed sailing instruction manual with notes on surf sailing, pages154 - 170. which includes photographs of a Hobie16 crewed by Phil Edwards and Mickey Munoz, Sunset Beach , circa 1974, page 158
Note that the bottom photograph has been flopped..
Development history in Chapter 2 credits Woody Brown and Phil Edwards as precedents to Hobie Alter's design.
Note photographs of Hobie at Makaha 1961 , page 25 and shaping a balsa paddleboard, page 26.

2003
Guisado, Raul (text and photographs) :
The Art of Surfing
A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer.
The Globe Pequot Press
P.O. Box 480, Guildfford, Connecticut 06437. 2003
Soft cover, 178 pages , extensive black and white photographs and illustrations, Glossary, References, Index.
Review
Very basic instruction manual.
Board design has seven pages, including fins 14 to 20.
Surfing history is covered in one page.
I could find no discussion, comments or even a refernence to "Art" in any context, surfing or otherwise.
The book is severely mis-titled.

1913-2013
Gurrey Jr., A. R:
The Surf Riders of Hawaii [reproduction].
Handmade by Timothy T. DeLaVega, Hanapepe, Kaua'i, 2013.
Originally published by A.R. Gurrey Jr., Honolulu, between 1912 and 1913.
Soft cover, 6 pages ,black and white photographs glued onto heavy-weight pages.

Published in conjunction with:
Smith, Joel T., and Hall, Sandra Kimberly:
The Life and Times of A. R. Gurrey Jr.
The Surf Riders of Hawaii- Centennial Edition.
Handmade by Timothy T. DeLaVega, Hanapepe, Kaua'i, 2013.
Soft cover, 12 pages , black and white photographs glued onto heavy-weight pages.
Review
An exquisite limited edition publication, congratulations to Tim of an obvious labour of love.

See:
1911-1914 A. R. Gurrey Jr. : Surf Riders of Hawaii.
A.R. Gurrey Jr., Honolulu, 1911-1911.

2011
Gutter, Christine:
True- Ten Years of North Kiteboarding.
Boards & More
GmbH, Rabach 1, A-4591 Molln
Hard cover, 320 pages , black and white and colour photographs and illustrations, Photograph credits.
Review
Amazingly lavish book that, with its emphatic concentation on North products, their designers and their sponsored sailors, is an extreme in company promotion.
The kite-line book mark is a stylish touch.

This copy kindly donated by Mr.Terry Gallagher, with many thanks.

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Geoff Cater (1999 - 2018) : References - Books - H.
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