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references : books p

1994
Parke, Trent and Autio, Narrelle :
The Seventh Wave
- Photographs of Australian Beaches
Hot Chilli Press, Kirrabilli, NSW 2065, Australia
Soft cover, 127 pages, extensive b/w photographs.
Essay by Robert Drewe.
Review
Black and white photographs, many outstanding, that mostly feature underwater shots of waves and/or swimmers.
World Press Photo Award, 2000.

2013
Parkinson, Joel; edited by Sean Doherty:
Parko : Joel Parkinson's Surfing Journey.
Hardie Grant Books, Richmond, Victoria, 2013.
Hard cover, 183 pages, colour photograph.
Review
A collection of spectactular photographs of Joel Parkinson at some of his favourite, and highly renowned, surf breaks around the world supplemented with his, and some other's comments.
Emphasis is on the quality of the surf, and there is little emphasis on Joel's prodigious contest record.

1994
Parry, Glyn :
Stoked! Real Life, Real Surf
A Little Ark Book, Allen & Unwin Pty Ltd
9 Atchison Street St Leonards NSW 2065, Australia
Soft cover, 96 pages, 9 colour plates, 4 b/w plates, extensive b/w illustrations, glossary, references, index.
Review
Chapters alternate between a humorous history of surfing and sensible advice from Dr Stoke. Excellent illustrations by Jeff Raglus further emphasize the humour.
Despite the lightweight tone, the book is accurate, informative and an enjoyable read.
Special note : Ben Apia’s two unsuccessful attempts to reproduce Mark Richards’ Flame Stinger (1976?) – page 88.

2012
Paskowitz, Izzy, with Daniel Paisner:
Scratching the Horizon- A Surfing Life
St. Martin's Griffin, New York, 2012.
Soft cover, 289 pages, black and white and colour plates.
Review
Paskowitz details a family surfing life following the lead of his doctor father, Dorian, and incidentally the inventor of Doc's Pro-Plugs for the prevention of surfer's ear.
After success in competitive surfing, principally on the longboard circuit, and Izzy founded Surfers Healing, a program to introduce autistic children based on experiences with his own son, Isaiah.

1960
Patterson O.B.('Pat')
Surf Riding - Its Thrills and Techniques
Charles E. Tuttle Company
Rutland, Vermont & Tokyo, Japan
First Printing 1960, Sixth Printing 1963
Hard cover, 150 pages, 39 black and white plates, 9 black and white illustrations, Table of Contents, List of Illustrations, Appendix : Hawaiian Equivalents of Western Names and Some Common Hawaiian Words
Review
An early text concentrating on Hawaii with some interesting Californian photographs by Joe Quigg.
Part 1.2 (Building Your Board) includes plans for a balsa wood Malibu or (for flat water) a hollow Blake board, circa 1930.
Foam boards are noted as the new thing and you are advised to contact one of the six listed manufacturers/suppliers.
Part 2.6 (Surfing in Other Countries) is scant, apparently relying on letters, photographs and gossip. In the case of Australia :..
       They have a very fine shop run by a Mr. Wood in Sydney for making these new
       (Malibu) boards. We have seen movies of his boards and they appear to be
                                 beautifully constructed. - page 97.
Other Australian interest is Plate 30
Reginald C. Blunt with new Australian (Okinuee) board at Durban, South Africa, circa 1958, and Plates 32 and 33
Two man / one man ...Australian surf-ski, Waikiki Beach
Special mention : The wonderful water photography (from a canoe?) of Clarence Moki, an outstanding example being Plate 27 Sliding left at Ala Moana surf, Wakiki.

1873
Patteson, J.C. (Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge):
Sketches of the Life of Bishop Patteson in Melanesia.
"A Revised Edition of "The Life of Bishop Patteson."
Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, London, 1873.
Hard cover, 204 pages, black and white plates and illustrations.
Review.
A brief description by Patteson of surfboard riding on Norfolk Island in 1862 and the recollections of one of his fellow travellers, Mrs. Selwyn.
Also an extremely rare surfboard riding image, highly similar to the work of Wallace McKay.

See
1862 J.C. Patteson : Surfriding on Norfolk Island.

1979
Pearson, Kent :
Surfing Subcultures of Australia and New Zealand.
University of Queensland Press, St. Lucia, Queensland, 1979.
Soft cover, 213 pages, 36 b/w photographs, bibliography, index.
Review
A sociological Ph.D. thesis “not about surfing but about the people who surf”, it concentrates on the ‘surfie’ verses ‘clubby’ phenoneom.
Part Two (Origins and Development) is of most interest to the general reader.
Duke Kahanamoku at Freshwater : 1915

1979
Peat, Neville:
The Tasman - Biography of an Ocean.
Penguin Group (NZ)
67 Apollo Drive , Rosedale, North Shore 0632, New Zealand, 2010.
Soft cover, 240 pages, colour and black and white photographs, illustrations and maps, Milestones, Glossary, Notes, Bibliography, Index.
Review
Unusual book that covers a multitude of topics about the Tasman Sea including its hydrology, wildlife, history of exploration, and recreational and commercial exploitation.
Unfortunately, Duke Kahanamoku's "introduction" of surfboard riding at Freshwater, page 206, has several errors.

1854
Perkins, Edward T.:
Na Motu: or, Reef-rovings in the South Seas.
A Narrative of Adventures at the Hawaiian, Georgian and Society Islands; with Maps, Twelve Illustrations, and an Appendix.
Relating to the Resources, Social and Political condition of Polynesia, and subjects of interest in the Pacific Ocean.
Pudney and Russell, Publishers,
Number 79 John Street, New York, 1854.
Hard cover, pages, 12 black and white illustrations, Appendix.
Review

For extracts, see Source Documents.
1854 Edward Perkins : Surfriding at Keauha.

2012
Peymani, Christine (editor): Chasing Mavericks: The Movie Novelization
Original story by Jim Meenaghan and Brandon Hooper
HarperCollins Publishers, 2012.
Soft cover, 250 pages.
Review
Based on the life of Jay Moriarity, the film-book tells a story of big wave surfing in Northern California for junior readers.

1940
Philip, George Blackmore (1861 - 1940):
Sixty Years Recollections of Swimming and Surfing in the Eastern Suburbs and Kindred Subjects.
George B. Philip and Son
451 Pitt Street Sydney, NSW.
Drawings by E.A. Holloway, E.J. Franklin and others.
Hard cover, 104 pages, black and white photographs and illustrations, colour plates.
Review
Although the amount of surfriding content is limited, this is an unique account of swimming and beach activity in Sydney in the late nineteenth century.
Confined to the southern city beaches, it precedes Authur Lowe's Surfing, Surf-Shooting and Surf-Lifesaving Pioneering (1958), a somewhat similar work that focuses on Manly Beach.
Philip recalls swimming in the harbour in his youth during the 1870s and venturing to the ocean beaches of the Eastern Surburbs in the 1880s.
Contra to many accounts implying a Victorian conservatism in relation to recreation, he clearly indicates that he and his companions swam naked. This freely expressed admission may appear incongruous given a strong Christian evangelism that pervades the work, the introductory colour plate depicts a beach resuscitation overseen by a white-robed Christ with halo.
Philip was a founding member and long-serving president of the Tammarrama SLSC, unfortunately not a beach not renowned for quality surfriding conditions.
He records his role in the lifting of the daylight bathing restrictions in the 1890s, the clubs design of the 'first' reel, and the minor use of canoes and boats as surfcraft.
Of the other Eastern Surburbs' beaches, Bronte (Chapter II) is featured ahead of its high-profile rival, Bondi, sharing Chapter I with Coogee and Clovelly.
There is no mention of Maroubra.

Sixty years recollections and impressions of a bookseller : Christopher Brennan by George Blackmore Philip ; illustrations by Lionel Lindsay, E.J. Franklin, E.A. Holloway.

Like William Dymock (q.v.), George Blackmore Philip worked at the Sydney bookshop of George Robertson (q.v.) before beginning his own business in Sydney about 1895. Along with John Malcolm Forsyth (q.v.) of Dymock's and T. E. G. Smith (q.v.) of Cole's Book Arcade, Philip was one of the founders of the Australian Booksellers Association (and its Foundation President). He was also President of the N.S.W. Publishers' Association, and Foundation President of the Tamarama Surf Life Saving Club.....

1930
Phillips, H:
Surfing Beaches of Sydney N.S.W.
Photographer, Printer and Publisher
99 Victoria Avenue Willoghby, NSW.
Soft cover, 24 pages, black and white photographs.
Review
The item is not dated but has one photograph at Bondi dated March 22nd, 1930.

Phillips-Birt, Douglas:
The Building of Boats.
Stanford Maritime, London, 1979.
Soft cover, 287 pages, black and white and colour photographs and illustrations, Maritime Drafting Methods, Glossary, Bibliography, Acknowledgements, Index.
Review
Building on the work of Hornell (1946) and Rudolf (1974), this detailed book has a distinct northern European approach and several important and interesting insights.

Also see
Torr, Cecil: Ancient Ships
Cambridge University Press, 1895
https://archive.org/details/ancientships00torruoft

1930
Pockington, Geoffrey R (Editor) :
Boy's Own Annual, 1930
Boy's Own Paper, London, 1930.
No: LII - 52.
Cover: Aquaplaning
Spine: Rugby
Colour: Red or green
Review

1944
Pohl, Henry F.:
Conquering the Surf - Lifesaving and Surfboarding
Hoffman-Harris Inc., 424 Fourth Avenue, New York, 1944.
Publishers of Beach and Pool- Swimming Pool Data and Reference Annual.
Hard cover, 47 pages, black and white illustrations and photographs, Surfboard Construction (Plans), Books on Aquatics.
Review
A remarkably detailed work with very basic, but numerous and effective, stick illustrations.
It includes, the now common, outline of wave and rip conditions, paddling techniques (including SUP, page 28 ?!), Freeboarding (aquaplane or wakeboard), Surfboard Sailing, and rescue procedure.

Page 30 notes: Women are cautioned not to lift boards because they are heavy and might lead to abdominal injury.

Pohl is accredited as the Former Safety Director, Ocean County, New Jersey, American Red Cross.

For extracts, see Source Documents.
1944 Henry Pohl : Conquering the Surf.

2002
Poirier, Jean-Etienne, Translated by Michael H. Kohn:
Dancing the Wave - Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing.
Shambhala Publications Inc..
Horticultural Hall, 300 Massachusetts Avenue, Boston Massachusetts 02115, 2003.
www.
shambhala.com
Soft cover, 159 pages, Glossary, Notes, Credits.
Review
While covering a number of topics, the book is largely an attempt to put surfing in a philosophical context.
The result is less than enlightening.
Several passages are highly questionable and/or require further research, for example:
"It's fantastic," said Linda. "... At one point, with the third wave, I had an orgasm." (page 74).

Originally published in French (2000) under the title Hopupu - defined by the author as:
"Ho-pu-pun (Hawaiian): sublime state experienced by a person who has just become one with a wave - ecstasy." (page 152).
This appears to be a manufactured definition to correspond with the author's agenda.

1963
Pollard, Jack (ed.):
Swimming - Australian Style
Lansdowne Press.P/L, 4 - 12 Tattersall's Lane
Melbourne Australia
Hardcover, 143 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations
Chapter 17. Riding the Waves by Brian Hucthings
Pages 116 - 122, four black and white surfriding photographs, one black and white illustration.
Review
Essentially a body surfing how-to with rudimentary surfboard references.

1963
Pollard, Jack (editor):
The Australian Surfrider - The Complete Book on Board and Body Surfing.
K.G.Murray Publishing Co.P/L,142 Clarence Street ,
Sydney Australia 1963
Hard cover, 144 pages, 134 black and white photos, 5 black and white diagrams.
Review
An impressive compilation of its day with chapters by Bernard (“Midget”) Farrelly, Kevin Platt, Joe Larkin, Bob Evans, and others.

The foreward is by Duke Kahanamoku, who was in Sydney in November 1963 for the launch of the book and attended the first Australian Nationals at Bondi Beach.
See fly-leaf dedication, below.
Note that the book was a Christmas gift for "Susan."

See Source documents:
1964 Greg McDonagh : How Surboards are Made.
Pollard: The Australian Surfrider (1964) Chapter 7.
Ten steps by Brookvale manufacturer, Greg McDonagh, with photographs.

1965
Pollard, Jack (editor):
The Surfrider - The Complete Book on Board and Body Surfing.
K.G.Murray Publishing Co.P/L,142 Clarence Street ,
Sydney Australia 1965
Hard cover, 144 pages, 134 black and white photos, 5 black and white diagrams.
Review
Second edition of Pollard's book, detailed above.
Some slight additions to the text and a significant number of the photographs are different.
As noted, an impressive compilation of its day with chapters by Bernard (“Midget”) Farrelly, Kevin Platt, Joe Larkin, Bob Evans and others.

The forward by Duke Kahanamoku is slightly longer than in the 1963 edition.

1972
Pollard, Jack (editor): How to Ride a Surfboard
Pollard Publishing Co.P/L,
7 Selwyn Avenue, Wollstonecraft, NSW. 2065.
Soft cover, 128 pages, 65 black and white photos, 1 black and white diagram.
Review
Unimpressive edited version taken from The Australian Surfrider, 1963. See above.
Nine chapters have been included.
Many relevant diagrams have been deleted.
The photographs include selections from the 1964 and the1965 editions.
The only photograph circa 1972 is Peter Townend, page 17.
Jack Pollard's Foreward replaces Duke Kahanamoku's 1963 text.

1973
Pollard, Jack (ed.) :
Ampol’s Sporting Records
Reprinted from 1968.1969, 1971.
Jack Pollard Pty. Ltd., 42 Pacific Highway, North Sydney NSW 2060
Hard cover, 704 pages, 32 colour plates, 112 b/w photographs, index.
‘Surfriding’ pages 635 – 636, photographs: Duke (page 558), Wayne Lynch (page 606).
Review
Abbreviated history of Australian surfing concentrating on ‘firsts’ or contest records.
The definition of ‘surfriding’ is of particular interest.
Jack Pollard is a prolific publisher of Australian sporting books.
Scanned photograph is a rare early shot of Wayne Lynch, page 607.

1996
Pollard, Ken:
History of Torquay Surf Life Saving Club :
the first fifty years, 1945-1995.
Torquay Surf Life Saving Club, Torquay, Vic., 1996.
Hard cover, 170 pages, black and white photographs, Appendices.
Review

For extracts, see
1995 Ken Pollard : Torquay SLSC.

2003
Potts, Nigel:
Learn to Surf for Beginners.
Academy of Surfing Instructors Pty Ltd.
406/136 Curlewis Street, Bondi, NSW, 2026 Australia, 2003.
Soft cover, 66 pages, black and white illustrations, colour photographs, Glossary.
Review
Extremely basic instructional book, the first of a series of three, the others are Immediate to Advanced and Instructor Level.

2010
Pretor-Pinney, Gavin:
The Wave Watcher's Companion - From Ocean Waves to Light Waves via Shock Waves, Stadium Waves, and All the Rest of Life's Undulations
A Pedigree Book
Penguin Group (USA) Inc.
375 Hudson Street New York, New York 10014, USA, 2010.
Hard cover, 336 pages, 30 black and white photographs and illustrations, Notes, Acknowledgements, Index.
Chapter illustrations by David Rooney, Additional illustrations by David White:
Review
An examination of the nature of waves, in the broadest context.
Ocean waves are detailed in the introduction and surfing references appear throughout the book.
Surfing is covered in the last chapter, The Ninth Wave.
Other waves include light, sound, earthquakes, etc.
Of particular interest is the account of "Mad" Jack Churchill, the first to ride the Severn bore in 1954 after becoming familiar with surfing at Newcastle in NSW, pages 233-235.

1972
Prytherch, Reginald :
Surfing - A Modern Guide
Faber and Faber Limited,
3 Queen Square London WC1, 1972.
Hard cover, 141 pages, 30 black and white photographs, 15 black and white illustrations or tables, Glossary,
Organisations, Index.
Review
Unusual English book with major emphasis of European surfing.
Chapters include basic instruction, extensive notes on competition and surf guide.
In line with English conditions, Chapter 3 is devoted to wetsuits.
This includes instructions on making your own suit, pages 35 - 36.
Photographs are mostly small English waves, as shown on the cover.
Reginald Prytherch was the Great Britain team manager to the1970 World Championships and a large portion of the text is devoted to this.

1957-1986
Pukui, Mary Kawena and Elbert, Samuel H.:
Hawaiian Dictionary :
Hawaiian-English, English-Hawaiian.
Revised and Enlarged Edition.
University of Hawaii Press, Honolulu, 1986.
First edition 1957.
Subsequently 1961, 1964, 1965, 1971.
Hard cover, 572 pages, References.
Review.
An essential reference for the study of Hawaiian surfriding, pre-1900.

2009
Punch, Simon:
Surfing NSW - The Essential Guide for the Travelling Surfer.
Woodslane Press
Unit 7, 5 Vuko Place, Warriewood, NSW, 2102, 2009.
Soft cover, 234 pages, Acknowledgements, Index.
Review.
Cleary laid out and bright presentation with details of location conditions, maps, accommodation and sustenance.
Not a complete guide with several sections of the coast not documented.

2013
Pye, Owen:
Born to Boogie - Legends of Bodyboarding.
Orca Publications
Berry Road Studios, Berry Road, Newquay, Cornwall, UK, 2013.
www.threesixtymag.co.uk
www.orcasurf.co.uk
Hard cover, 152 pages, extensive colour and some black and white photographs, Index.
Review.
Largely a collection of profiles of major boogie performers, with some chapters highlighting associated themes such as significant contests and Equipment, page 126.
The chapter on Tom Morey's invention of the Boogie Board (pages 10 to 13), while informative, sums up Morey's extensive experience with Morey-Pope Surfboards and Waveset fins in one line, "in 1964 he quit the corporate world to experiment with surfboard design and manufacture in Ventura."

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Geoff Cater (1999-2018) : References : Books : P
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