mctavish : indian head, 1968
What do you do when there's not the slightest ripple of swell and you're a professional surfer?
That's what the taxation form said : Professional Surfer.
Well you can fool around trying to shape the board that's going to do everything : a little flatter on the bottom, sharper, blunt the nose a little, make it stronger with heavier foam.
(You know what happened to the last one, ugh — that was power: Must have been a month since Boulder had those banks — no more).
Then, a little more taper on the tail, cut it off before the pin-tail; don't need that kind of traction here.
In fact haven't needed traction in Byron for a while.
Right winds, no swell-right swell, wind on-shore.
No power anyway 'round here.
So you've got your board right, keen on surfing again.
[a. Bob McTavish: Indian Head]
[b. Bob McTavish (falling off), Russel Hughes, others: Indian Head]
Volume 1. Number 9