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mctavish : my surfboard,
1968
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Page 45 Bob McTavish:
Indian Head
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Page
46
This
is my new
surfboard.
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It
has the same
turning curve in the plan shape as a medium-range
pintail (minus the pin).
So it cuts a neat arc. The area in the tail is enough to feel strong in a turn without fighting back more than my ten stone can handle. As it's so small, and as it's got that natural curve in the bottom section, it doesn't really hiss along unless it's in the face. Any face that's a bit hollow will do, but when the wave starts sucking and the curl gets a foot thick, it's wailin' ! When
that day
comes, and it's six to ten and very hollow, I'll be
thankful I have my
Mongul special, 'cause it'll let me stand up in the
tube, climbing and
dropping to hold back in.
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That's as
light
as you can go without boring big holes in the shaped board
and glassing
over it.
That's what
Buddy
Boy did and his weighs six and a half.
Buddy Boy
weighs
about thirteen stone.
He's on a
diet.
The first
day
I rode my board it had cured for two days.
About 60%, I
think.
It got a
buckled
deck from my right foot big toe pressing through single six
into light
foam every turn.
After
surfing
it for a couple more days, it felt too light for its volume.
A bit of a
cork
through turns.
So I slapped
six more ounces on the bottom.
Now it feels
better.
And so do I.
'Cause now
the
bottom will preserve itself.
And I want
it
to be around for a while.
I like my
surfboard,
I like it. I like it.
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Volume 1. Number 9 November 1969 |
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