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mctavish : man
made reefs, oct 1967
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Toes pressed through wax job.
Stomach in upper reaches of chest
cavity.
Feeling the bounce of the
re-entry.
Ridden the explosion of the
close-out today?
Yes, the 360 after the weightless
was rather good.
Dragged my whole bum in one of
those backhands.
Free?
Yes thanks.
Share this one.
Try a dual tube?
You call the turns.
The circus is in town.
Yes, I'd love a rose.
Listen to the radio.
The artists, the individuals and
the small groups sing of love.
Turn on the TV - the big companies
and entertainment factories turn out violence, killing, hate.
See how simple it is?
The individual artists have it all
over the system people.
Surfers are individual artists.
Surfers are beautiful.
Their medium is so clean, so
spiritual, so involving, so natural, so good.
As artists they reflect all this
good and beauty.
Life is fun.
You can't have fun, kid.
Get a steady job.
But I like the sun.
You're not allowed kid, the system
won't let you.
What if I go ahead and dig it,
live, love?
We'll jail you.
Ha!
You can't.
The only prison is the mind, and
the door is stuck open.
Hoo Ha!
Surfers dropped out years ago.
Remember the rat race shouting
after us as we walked into funland, "lemondrop kids",
"surfies"! Poor kids aren't we ...we even forgot how to frown,
too busy living to remember.
Of course with all this groovy
stuff happening around us we're going to attract more
drop-outs, or drop-ins.
Crowded waves.
Two ways around the problem.
First, hotter boards, hotter
surfing and cooler heads mean more guys per wave with just as
much fun.
What you sometimes lose with the
slightly crowded feeling, you'll gain with a couple more wakes
to play in, more motion as other guys go flying around in
front and beneath and above you.
More laughs.
The second answer to crowds is
more waves.
It's time for man to employ his
overgrown scientific knowledge towards fun, instead of that
other thing that makes him build fighter planes, war ships,
arms, bombs, missiles.
The three million that one
fighter plane costs us, the three million that comes from our
pay packs, the three million that no- one gets to enjoy, could
give the friendly people a well shaped surfbreak to
accommodate 300 people.
I'm sorry to have to mention the
war-tool bit, but that little piece of ugliness now may help
us all to a freer more surf-filled life. ..each time you hear
or see the word Vietnam, cancel out the blackness with a
picture of a beautiful man-shaped wave, a piece of
love-nature.
Make waves not war.
Practical application of the
idea.
A grant of several million dollars
towards surfing research and development.
A group of surfing minds.
A headland that receives good
swell and favourable winds.
Let's try the north side of Long
Reef, Sydney, a half mile of coast around a rock bottomed pair
of coves, the whole place takes any south quarter-wind, cops
any swell at all, and has a lousy bottom shape.
Really central.
Conditions are excellent three to
five days a week.
Accurate chart of the bottom, suggestions for wave shapes, models, testing tanks, research on cement and plastic combinations and varieties, methods of anchoring, and go to town.
A pipeline, an Ala Moana, a
Malibu left, a Sunset walling into a Laneakea, a Rincon, a Ti
Tree, a right Pipeline, a few more imaginative breaks, some
big and power some small.
All varying with tides and swell
sizes.
Southerly this morning?
Off to the Reef.
Wow!
Only 200 guys out, only about ten
each break.
Slip into wetsuit, grab wax,
might just sit on nearby headland for a bit and raise
sensitivity to those waves, maybe get a rough plan figured on
how to put together the session.
Shape preferences, tide, frame of
mind ... Hit it!
Page 11 Nat
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Page 13 Midget
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Surf International October - November 1967
Volume 1 Number 1 Cover : Butch Cooney - Newcastle Contest Back Page : Look up through a crystal vessel and get nailed to the wall The Crystal Vessel by Russell Hughes. Shane Surfboards Brookvale - Eastwood. |
home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |