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surfer  : duke and makaha contests, 1965 

Surfer Magazine  :  Duke and Makaha Contests, 1965.

Surfer: Duke and Makaha Contests.
Volume 7 Number 1, March1966.

This copy courtesy of the Graham Sorensen Collection.

The contest articles cover the winter of 1965-1966, with a publishing delay of several months.
While the Duke Contest was a great success, marking the emergence of 17 year-old Jeff Hakman, there were numerous dificulties with the Makaha Contest.
The Menehunes Contest at La Jolla marked the emergence of 12 year-old Margo Godfrey.
The Pipeline column featured Joyce Hoffmann, the USSA 1965 standing, Australia's Ma and Pa Bendall, the upcoming Peru International Championships, and  Bob Cooper's relocation to Alexandra Headland in Queensland.
In advertising, Jacobs Surfboards promoted The 422 (page 18), a board with "flyers" reducing the tail section; a precursor to Ben Apia's Stinger in 1974..
Duke Kahanmoku's famous aloha-print tennis shoes were advertised on page 90.

Other Articles
Mike Doyle: Getting The Most Out Of The Surf, Surfer Tips Number 20, page 20,
Griffin and Stoner: Le Adventure Surf Francais, page 38.
J.J. Moon: I'm the number one surfer!, page 56.
Patrick McNulty: Mehehunes Show class at Shores, page 62.
Third Annual Surfer Poll, Nominations and ballot paper, page 77.
Pipeline, page 78.
Bill Cleary: Rincon, page 82.


Hansen surfboards: new glass, new shapes (standard,custom, noseriders, guns, semi-guns), new fins (three shapes), page 22.

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Makaha Takes a Back Seat

Imagine the perfect surfing contest. .. there's a select field of 24 of surfing's greatest.
... Names like Strauch, Miller, Weber, Hynson, Hollinger, Dora, Cabell, Frye, Hemmings, Noll, Downing.
...And they wait until the surf is big and hairy.
There's really only one place for the perfect contest - on a big day at Sunset Beach off Oahu's north shore.
... And everything comes off perfectly.
That's a capsule description of the first Duke Kahanamoku Invitational that in one day of great surfing moved the previously unchallenged Makaha International far out of the tIawaiian competition spotlight.
Organizers of the Duke contest went out of their way trying to avoid a direct comparison with the 12-year-old Makaha classic, but a comparison was inevitable.
From beginning to end, the Duke contest - unlike Makaha - was a marvel of organization, planning, and probably the greatest overall surfing ever put together in one competition.
By comparison, Makaha dragged nine days in mostly mediocre surf and was a mish- mash of crowded heats (over 550 signed up), questionable judging - so badly organized that many name surfers didn't even know the day of their heats.
"No questions about it," grinned Mickey Munoz, "the 'Duke' contest was the greatest ever held."
The contest also rocketed to greatness little Jeff Hakman, 17, who tore apart his favorite Sunset Beach break as veterans twice his age failed to qualify for the finals.
Organization was the keynote of the Duke contest and was superbly run from the moment the specially selected con-
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testants checked in to the posh Surfrider Hotel.
The surfers had a complete briefing on how the contest would be scored, and every surfer knew exactly what the judges wanted.
The only mild sour note was sounded in a few heated discussions among the judges about what emphasis to put on a wave ride. Meet director Fred Van Dyke had selected the three judges to get a wide range of judging.
Contest director Van Dyke commented:
"Our judges were representative of all ages and schools of thought in surfing.
Mark Martinson, the youngest and hot-dogging exponent; Buzzy Trent, the middle-aged' big-wave rider; and Wally Froiseth, the older and wiser and most experienced of all surfers."
However, Martinson- who passed up the contest because a leg broken in a surfing accident had failed to mend completely- frequently was at odds with Froiseth and Trent about giving more points to performance on the big Sunset peaks.
But when it was allover, there was no doubt that California-born Hakman, who now lives in the Islands and attends Punahou school, was the class of the field; Commented Froiseth:
"Jeff Hakman surfed as good as any- one I've ever seen at Sunset Beach.
He took eight waves in the finals and was judged on five of them.
He was up against some terrific competition, but there was no question he was the best."
Buzzy Trent said, "In my fifteen years at Sunset, I've never seen anyone ride the waves better than Jeff.
You just can't surf better at Sunset. Jeff got the best rides on the best waves."
The little champion, who stands just 5 feet 4 and weighs 125 pounds, piled up 219 points out of a possible 300.
This was 28 points more than second-place Hawaii's Paul Strauch, Jr., and 35 better than Felipe Pomar, the transplanted Peruvian who attends Oahu's Church College.
Hakman, who later missed the Makaha junior competition because of a traffic accident, was unruffled by his Duke Kahanamoku victory over the cream of the surfing world.
Hakman commented:
"I've surfed on better days at Sunset, but that one ride I got was the best I've ever had."
The ride (caught by SURFER's sequence camera, see page 26) was described by veteran Trent as "a one in a million shot.
He harnessed the wave.
It was the equivalent of running the hundred yard dash in nine seconds flat or hitting a home run with the bases loaded.
It was the best ride I've ever seen at Sunset Beach.
Jeff never made a mistake."
Van Dyke had scheduled the contest for December 13-17, picking the best wave conditions at either Sunset, the Banzai Pipeline, Haleiwa or Waimea
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... while this ripple crowded with five surfres was typical of the waves during preliminaries of the Makaha International.
That's George Downing, number 5, who picked up his third Makaha title. Cleary photo.

This same photograph was printed on page 36 the next edition of Surfer, illustrating an article by Dewey Weber.
Weber is number 4.
For the article and image, see Dewey Weber : Contests, Surfer, Volume 7 Number 2, May 1966.
It rained on the l3 th, but that night at a lavish steak dinner and party at the Duke's famous restaurant at Waikiki, the word went out - the surf was up!
So that morning the chartered bus was loaded with boards and surfers and headed for the north shore.
Van Dyke cast an expert's eye on the big peaks falling at Sunset and said:
"This is it."
The sun was hot, and a good-sized crowd scattered along the long elipse of sand as photographers lined up, side by side, shooting in unison like a firing squad.
Gathering place for the surfers and the CBS crew photographing the action was Val Valentine's ocean-facing house.
A soft drink and sandwich bar was set up in the backyard, and the 24 surfing stars lounged and waited for their heats, which were so beautifully run that the entire contest was wrapped up in a single day.
There were no side events, no tandem, no women's, no juniors- just a lean, hard professional contest, an exercise in classic simplicity.
Two surfers were picked out of each of the four heats for the finals.
In many cases only a point or two separated the winners from the losers, as the three-man judging team turned in exceptionally even scores for the best five waves of each surfer.
The surf was 12 feet and mean.
Robert August, waxing up for a heat, watched a big Sunset tunnel explode, spitting a cloud of stearn that licked Peter Cole cleanly off his board.
"Did you see that?" said August.
"How can I ride this place? I've never ridden it before."
But August did well, scoring 122 points in his heat that big Mike Doyle won with 185.
August took a couple of swims as did Butch Van Artsdalen, Joey Cabell and Mickey Munoz, among others.
Richard Chew, who prefers smaller surf and gets in the water at Sunset only rarely, had the worst showing as he spent most of the 55-minute heat swimming after his board.
Dora, the Black Knight of Malibu, found himself boxed again and again on waves by other surfers- and you don't push anybody off his board at Sunset.
Mickey went for the long swim twice and later commented on the beach:
"Sunset has got to be the world's greatest surfing spot - the place is beautiful, but I don't like waves I can't control.
You're at the wave's mercy at Sunset.
It controls you.
I was stuck to those waves like fly paper!
And I still spent the whole day swimming."
The eight finalists took to the water at 3 p.m. as the off-shore trades kissed the waves now breaking hollower and harder.
Hakman looked like a little boy sent to do a man's job with Paul Strauch, Jr., Felipe Pomar, Jackie Eberle, Mike Doyle, Bobby Cloutier, Corky Carroll, and Kimo Hollinger.
But Jeff soon had

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Jeff felt no doubt that Sunset is his favorite surfing break as he
(A) cranked a neat bottom turn

(B) trimmed beautifully and drove close to the hook and 

(C) then disappeared in the tunnel.

(D) Still inside, 
(E) Jeff incredibly flashes out the exploding tube
(F) and slides into green water with a happy smile for the cameramen on the beach.
[Other photographs]

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Malibu's Mickey Dora shows the famous Dora style as he drops in on a Sunset wave
blown smooth by thee off -shore trades. Cleary photo.

every eye on the beach focused on his roller coaster style, dropping, accelerating, climbing - once disappearing completely inside a curling wave and then reappearing, rising casually over the top as the spitting wave spun on.
There were no arguments when the name Hakman was selected as the first engraving on the perpetual Duke Kahanamoku Invitational trophy.
The Duke contest, if nothing else, pointed out the shortcomings of the Makaha contest's nine days.
Except for the exciting tandem competition, Makaha was a badly run fiasco.
The Makaha competition hardly lived up to its "International" classification and without representatives from surfing spots, Australia, South America, France and South Africa, the Makaha applause was but the sound of one hand clapping.

The day before the contest opened, there was point surf booming off the point and crushing through the bowl.

When the contest opened, the swell had dropped and the Men's eliminations were held in small, fun surf.
The surf dropped to almost nothing, the meet was put on a day-to-day basis.
Contestants were advised to call each morning to see if their heats were scheduled, but this led to a great deal of confusion and many contestants relied on listening to local radio stations for announcements whether the meet was on or off for that day.
The Waikiki Surf Club, sponsor of the Makaha lnternational, made it easier for contestants on the north shore to get to Makaha by driving through a military reservation and the Koli Koli Pass.
So travel time for the north shore commuters was pared to an hour.

Suddenly the surf picked up and the Women's event was underway.

The favorite, of course, was 1965 USSA champion Joyce Hoffman of Capistrano Beach, California, described in the program as "clearly the world's greatest woman surfer."
But some of the other lady competitors didn't see it that way, and the Women's Finals nearly turned into open warfare.
Constantly under attack, Joyce got few waves to herself and received at least one solid bump on the head.
The winner was Nancy Nelson, notching her third Makaha victory.
Nancy, of San Clemente, California, rode for all she was worth and stayed out of the battle.
Nancy commented later: "I would have hated to have been in Joyce's position.
The way they went after her was horrifying!"
The surf dropped again but picked up for the tandem competition that was the

Page 29

Perfectly trimmed and driving, Paul Strauch Jr., exhibits the type of riding
that earned him second place in the Duke K. contest. Stoner photo.
[Also photograph: Mickey Dora wipe-out.]
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contest's highlight.
Just before the finals, Mike Doyle looked around frantically for his partner, Linda Merrill - and no Linda!
Linda was a victim of the badly announced programming and was at that moment driving frantically to Makaha after learning on the radio that the tandem was scheduled.
With no Linda, Doyle spotted Don Hansen's tandem partner, Danielle Corn of Encinitas, California, and asked if she would fill in.
As Mike and Danielle paddled through the channel, Linda Merrill came running down the sand- but it was too late.
Mike Doyle, even with a new partner, rose to the occasion, taking his third Makaha tandem title that, together with his third-place finish in the Men's finals; earned Mike the contest award for all-around surfer.

After the tandem, finals for the Men's juniors were called with many big-name juniors unaware that they would be surfing that day.

Among the stars still on the North Shore were Jock Sutherland and the favorite, Jeff Hakman, who had beat 'em all the "Duke" competition a few days earlier.
Friends made panic telephone calls I trying to round up missing finalists.
Sutherland was surfing in front of his house at Chun's Reef when his mother got the call from Makaha.
She flagged Jock in with a towel and together they sped over the "impassable" back road around Kaena Point trying to save time. The Kaui helicopter service, doing a land office business selling rides over the waves at three dollars a minute, went chopping off in a patriotic, but unsuccessful, trying to locate missing contestants on the highway.
Hakman was on his way when his car was in a minor accident.
There were no injuries, but Jeff had to stand by to make a police report, and he never did make the finals.
Sutherland arrived with the finals in full swing with just fifteen minutes left.
Running down the sand, he grabbed a numbered jersey and clutched it between his teeth as he paddled out into position in one of the speediest runs to the line-up the Makaha channel had ever seen.
Jock caught five waves- the minimum to be judged- but David Nuuhiwa, who had been in the water the full 55 minutes, was declared the winner- but just by a single point.
Gracious in victory, the new

 Duke Kahanamoku had a warm smile for winner Hakman, third-place Pomar and second-place
Paul Strauch after the contest that many top surfers described as "the greatest one ever," Stoner photo.

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junior champion commented later: "If Hakman had made it here, I don't think I could have beat him."
The surf flattened out for several days, and the day after Christmas the Men's semi-finals were called.
This was the last possible day to hold the Men's event, because many contestants were flying back to the Mainland the next day. Then, almost on cue, the surf started to come up.
During the semi-finals, it built up from four to six feet, as the contestants started flocking to Makaha.
Several were unaware of the contest, among them John Peck, one of the favorites.
John got the word at the last minute, borrowed a competition motorcycle and came roaring around the rugged Kaena Point road. He arrived bruised and muddy- but too late for his semi-final heat.
The surf gradually got larger and as considered adequate by T. V. for the finals, although George Downing and others objected. The waves were four to eight feet during most of the 55-minute event, and there were some great hot-dog performances by Doyle, Dewey Weber, Paul Strauch, Jr., Fred Hemmings and Joey Cabell.
Cagey George Downing, who waited for larger waves and rode in the relaxed Island style that is so popular with Makaha judges, was the victor by one point for an unprecedented third Makaha title.
Hemmings, Doyle and Buffalo Keaulana were all tied with 36 points for their total score on their best three waves.
The judges finally sorted them out by looking back until they found a point difference in the waves they caught during the 55-minute finals.

After the contest, as usual, there were plenty of gripes: the bad organization, the heats crowded with as many as 23 contestants; and above all, the judging.
In defense, head judge Wally Froiseth said: "We changed our judging system from last year and have gone from the buoy system stressing the long ride to the 20-point system.
But we still feel that a surfer who catches a wave outside and
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Better late than never was red-hot junior Jock Sutherland, who just missed beating
David Nuuhiwa with only 15 minutes' surfing time left in the 55-minute finals. Cleary photo.

rides it all the way to the shore definitely has more opportunity to perform and will, on the average, get more points.
Regarding international judges, I feel that until the level of ability in the different countries gets a little closer together, it is not a good idea.
I do feel that judges from California are well qualified, and we have asked them to judge here. .. but we will not use a judge who does not go through our judges orientation program (usually run well in advance of the contest).
We don't want to tell them how to judge.
We just want to be sure they are considering all the facets of surfing we feel are important."
Another Makaha judge, ex-Santa Monica lifeguard and surfer Dave Rochlen, Sr., had this to say:
"The Makaha contest is a crowd event.
It is for the public.
We spent more time weeding out more people.
At Makaha, everybody gets a chance.
A guy from Nebraska can come out here and enter.
It is planned and executed for the public.
And after it is all over. ..we hope we have produced a champion.
The Duke Kahanamoku meet as an invitational is

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extremely spectacular.
But I think there is room in surfing for both."
What Rochlen failed to mention, however, is that while a mythical surfer from Nebraska can enter the Makaha International, only two non-Hawaiians have won in the contest's 12-year history.
They were California's Peter Cole in 1958 and Aussie Midget Farrelly in 1962.
Year after year, the same names pop up in the finals.
In fact, several Hawaiian surfers have been in the Makaha finals almost every year they've entered.
Can the surfer from Nebraska win the Makaha contest?
Is it really an International event for everybody?
Or is the judging geared to an outmoded style that obviously belongs to the past?
George Downing is a great surfer- on the point at Makaha and in big surf.
But his victory is garnered in the shadow of questionable judging - unfair to George and other contestants instructed to "perform" in the Makaha contest.
The size of the waves George caught gave him the point edge.
But the question here is why are more points given for an eight- foot wave than a six-foot wave?

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tainly no more danger is involved.
However, if a contestant riding in the finals on an average 18-foot point day at Makaha picked off a 25-foot wave and made it, he would deserve more points.
In that case, the bigger wave is obviously more of a challenge and a greater feat.
But Makaha doesn't claim to be a "ride-the-biggest-wave contest."
According to judge Wally Froiseth, "We still feel that a surfer who catches a wave outside and rides it all the way to the shore definitely has more opportunity to perform and will, on the average, get more points."
Evidently, merely the opportunity to perform is sufficient, and George Downing once again has won the annual Makaha "long distance surfing championship."
But one thing is certain.
In the Duke Kahanamoku event, the Hawaiian Islands at last have a contest to match their waves.

Duke Kahanamoku Contest Finals and Individual Judges' Point Allotment (best 5 waves) [Adjusted]

1. Jeff Hakman
2. Paul Strauch, Jr.
3. Felipe Pomar
4. Jackie Eberle
5. Mike Doyle
6. Robert Cloutier
7. Corky Carroll
8. Kimo Hollinger
Buzzy Trent
Mark Martinson
Wally Froiseth
Makaha Results
1. George Downing (Hawaii)
2. Fred Hemmings, Jr. (Hawaii)
3. Mike Doyle (California
4. Buffalo Keaulana (Hawaii)

1. Nancy Nelson (California)
2. Joyce Hoffman (California)
3. Joey Hamasaki (Hawaii) 

1. David Nuuhiwa (Hawaii)
2. Jock Sutherland (Hawaii)
3. Stanley Park (Hawaii)
4. Ronald Mahelona (Hawaii) 

1. Mike Doyle-Danielle Corn (California) 
2. "Pete" Peterson-Marge Giger ( California)
3. Leroy AhChoy-Diane Beach (Hawaii) 
4. Bob Moore-Pat Young (Californnia) 

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Page 62

Menehunes Show Class at Shores
By Patrick McNulty / Phots by Ron Stoner

Menehunes were out in force for a contest all their own.
In Hawaiian lore, a Menehune is a mischievous little fellow.
In other countries, he'd be called a leprechaun or an elf, so none of the contest spectators were surprised when the 34 little rascals showed up with plenty of surfing tricks.
On their Menehune-sized boards, they ripped into the three to four- foot surf at La Jolla Shores near San Diego in the contest sponsored by the Windansea Surf Club.
Just like senior surfing contests, the competition was fierce, the performances excellent and shiny trophies went to the winners.

(Above) Big Mike Doyle stretches up and shows the size of contestants boards as be poses with winners.
That's winner Chris Picciolo at the far left.

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The Menehunes came from many parts of Southern California, as far north as Ventura and Malibu.
Youngest entries were Jim Palmus and Ted Stout, both nine years old.
The "old timers" included David Tompkins, Niki Rodrigues and Moose Schumacher- all 12 years old, which was the age limit for the contest.

Blonde Margo Godfrey, one of the three girls in the contest, surfed off with top honors in the 12 year old division- which included boys and girls.
Margo was surfing her home break at La Jolla Shores and she turned on with some fabulous nose rides that really showed the boys up.

In the ten year old division, Judges Chuck Hasley, Skip Frye, John Close and Pat Higgins had a tough time sorting out the best of these red-hot little surfers.
Ten year old Chris Picciolo, a daring noserider from Pacific Palisades, California, was voted the winner.
Chris really showed signs of becoming a great hot dogger in later years.

These Menehunes ripped into the La Jolla Shores beach break and left no doubt that they are well on their way to becoming Joyce Hoffmans and Mike Doyles of the future.

(Above left) Twelve-year-old Margo Godfrey was all smiles after winning the 12-year-old division which was open to both boy and girl Menehunes. (Above right) Margo demonstrates her relaxed style that she perfected on her home break at La Jolla Shores.

Page 78

Rusty Miller is the new 1965 USSA champion in a wild contest year that was a scramble down to the final contest.
Miller had an imposing 400 points going into the Santa Monica Mid-Winter Surfing Championships, December 18- 19, but Skip Frye, with 345 points, had a shot at the title.
Rusty, in the Islands with many top surfers for the Duke Kahanamoku and Makaha contests, didn't jet back to the mainland for the Santa Monica competition.
But Frye and other USSA high-point men Donald Takayama and Corky Carroll flew to Santa Monica from Hawaii hoping to pick up some valuable points.
Their plans were really shaken by Marty Sugarman, a relatively unknown surfer from Santa Monica.
Sugarman knocked off Frye in a preliminary heat, eliminated Takayama in the semi-finals and then finished first ahead of second place Carroll in the finals.
Vic Moreno was third, Tom Lewis fourth and Tom Overland fifth.
Frye and Takayama, of course, got no points, but Carroll picked up 75 third-place points which moved him from thirteenth up to fifth position in the final USSA standings.
Carroll, who just a few days before had finished seventh in Duke Kahanamoku Invitational at Sunset Beach, showed his usual hotdogging style in the small three-four feet Santa Mqnica surf.
But he couldn't match giant-killer Sugarman's inspired surfing.
Denny Thompkins enhanced his USSA point standing by winning the Santa Monica contest's junior division ahead of Mike Stevenson, David Nuuhiwa, Herb Torens and Bill Gray.
Mary Lou McGinnis took women's honors ahead of Margo Godfrey, but this had no impact on the women's standings since Joyce Hoffman had wrapped up the competition early with a maximum 500 points.

These are the final USSA 1965 standings:

1. Rusty Miller 
2. Skip Frye 
3. Donald Takyama
4. Dewey Weber 
5. Corky Carroll 
6. Richard Chew
7. Steve Bigler
8. Mark Martinson 
9. Robert August 
10. Mike Doyle
1. David Nuuihwa 
2. Denny Tompkins
3. Petey Johnson 
4. Herb Torrens
5. Mike Stevenson 

1. Joyce Hoffman 
2. Joey Hamasak
3. Nancy Nelson
4. Josette Lagardere 
5. Dede Arevalos.\

The parking lot at Kaiser's Hospital between Waikiki and Ala Moana in Hawaii has a crowded surfboard rack for a unique Island version of a doctor's coffee break.
Many of the physicians at the hospital are avid surfers and use their spare time for quick trips to the surf at the hospital's door step.
Ron Haworth reports that just before slipping under an anesthetic, one patient managed to mutter, "How was the surf today, Doc?"
Scalpel poised, the surgeon replied, "Five to seven with offshores."
So the patient dropped into dreamland with visions of tight, tempting tubes.
Not a bad way to lose a tonsil.

Page 79

"Here's a shot of Bill Waterrnan on a super clean left in an area that SURFER Magazine is really rnissing-Oregon," complains Scott Blackrnan, an enthusiastic surfer frorn Agate Beach, Oregon.
"SURFER's neglecting northwest surf," says Blackrnan, "the entire East Coast frorn Florida to Rhode Island has been covered and rightfully so.
But your West Coast coverage seerns always to stop at San Francisco, which is called by one of your readers- 'surfing's northern outpost.'
If surfing has a northern outpost, it's up here in Oregon where we surf year around- especially at Agate Beach where the mile-long point narned Yaquina Head gives protection frorn prevailing summer westerly winds.
We surf the south side and switch north when fall brings southerly winds.
There is frequently some great small surf."

Speaking of Joyce Hoffrnan, she added to her own growing laurels- and indirectly gave surfing a trernendous prestige boost when Joyce was nominated for Woman of the Year by the influential Los Angeles Times newspaper.
Selected for her surfing exploits, Joyce, 18, was the youngest of the dozen nominees who included rnovie star Julie Andrews, historian Ariel Durant, voted Woman of the Year, astronorner Doctor E. Margaret Burbidge, heart specialist Doctor Marian E. Gallaher and painter-sculptor Joyce Tremain.
The fact that Joyce, as a surfer, was included in this select cornpany, and the recognition by one of the nation's great newspapers does a lot to offset the poison pen type of anti-surfing article that ran recently in Sports Illustrated.
SURFER extends congratulations to Joyce and the Los Angeles Times.

Here's the plot: There's this pretty blonde girl surfer, and she wants to enter the Makaha contest.
But she doesn't have much rnoney, so she quits school and works as a waitress to raise the plane fare from Southern California to Hawaii.
As the contest gets closer and closer, she still doesn't have enough dough.
Then who cornes into the restaurant one day but this rnulti-millionaire who asks the owner, "How does that pretty blonde keep such a good tan in the middle of winter?"
And so the owner tells him the whole story about the blonde surfer and how she wants to go to Hawaii.
So, after he finishes his pie ala mode and coffee, the millionaire leaves a tip under the plate-a pair of one hundred dollar bills.
The waitress picks them up, starts to cry and then runs away with the $200 to buy her plane ticket for the contest.
Sound corny?
Well, it actually happened to pretty Kathy O'Connor, hot Southern CaJifornia surfer and newly elected president of the women's division of the Windansea Surf Club.
Kathy had dropped out of Oceanside Junior College to work at the Texas Melody Ranch in Vista when she ran into the big-tipping millionaire from Los Angeles.
"Without that $200 tip, I probably wouldn't have gone to the Islands," said Kathy.

Page 80

Is Africa- not Hawaii- the real home of surfing?
That's the opinion of surfing pioneer Tom Blake, who says he has evidence to back up his claim that the Africans really invented surfboard riding, Blake says that recent evidence points to surfing's origin in equatorial West Africa perhaps thousands of years ago.
Blake said that a thesis by a University of California student has confirmed a historical report by a British explorer about surfboard riding at Accra, Ghana, along Africa's gold coast in 1837.
Blake says, "In 1837, surf riding was going strong in West Africa, while in Hawaii, it was a dying sport.
Long before the time of Christ, sea trade flourished in the Mediterranean and along the sea coasts of Europe and Africa and physical and cultural contacts have been established.
Conclusion: Surf riding originated in West Africa untold thousands of years ago and the idea then slowly spread by diffusion of those who had seen it or participated in it to the Middle East, India, Asia, Tahiti- reaching Hawaii about the tenth century. "
Blake says he also has evidence that "paddle boards were known in Africa among the Ashanti tribe long ago."
"There are drawings," Blake said, "of long, slender boards called 'mapaoua' paddled by hand around an island lake.
The use of oars, paddles or sails was forbidden, leaving the paddleboard the main form of transportation."
Blake adds, "Surely there are now people living in West Africa and written records that could shed more light to further support this theory that Africa is indeed the home of surfriding."

Meet Australia's oldest gremmies - Grandma and Grandpa Bendall, who surf everyday of the year.
"You can keep your bowls and golf," says Ben Bendall, 57, "we find surfboard riding keeps us fit, and we really enjoy it."
Writer Lawrie (sic, Laurie?) Kavanagh reported in the Brisbane Courier Mail: "Living right on the ocean at Caloundra Beach, the Bendalls find ample time to do their surfing and think nothing of traveling hundreds of miles a week chasing the best surf.
In the Bendall garage is a two-berth van built especially for surf chasing.
The van contains everything including the kitchen sink to make living away from home more than comfortable.
The van is always fueled and provisioned, ready to hit the road for the big surf if the waves look like they're holding for several days at some distant beach.
If you think the Bendalls are surfing fanatics, you're right.
They live for it. Mrs. Madge Bendall, 55, grandmother of three, made news last year when she entered the state surfboard riding championships and her husband Ben says they are going to keep on surfing for a long time.
"We're going to ride waves as long as we've got two feet to stand on."

Finishing one-two in the USSA annual ratings earned Rusty Miller and Skip Frye a free trip to the Peru International Championships next February 25 through March 4.

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Two surfers from every competing country get official invitations and contest director, Eduardo Arena, decided to use the USSA competition results to select the top American surfers.
There's still time to sign up for the Peru International, which is one of the top contests of the year.
Any interested surfers can get more information by writing Eduardo Arena, Apart-do 180, Lima, Peru.

A bit of surfing history: Back in the 1930's a hard-muscled oldtimer was a familiar figure at a chilly cove near San Francisco's Cliff House.
Everyday-rain or shine, winter or summer-since he had been a youngster, the old fellow had splashed into the surf for a swim out to the Seal Rock landmark and back.
It was frequently a tough swim because the cove was famous for strong riptides, big surf and chilly water.
But that didn't stop the old timer.
He loved the cove and the ocean, frequently telling companions that when the time came for him to pass on to his reward this beach would be quite suitable.
And so on May 31, 1938, he swam into the breakers and collapsed on the sand with a fatal heart \ttack.
Sam Kelly was dead at 74.
And that's how Kelly's Cove got its name.

Surfer Dan Cole, who lives in Belgium, wanted to stay in shape for a winter's surfari to the excellent French surf at Biarritz.
Since there are no waves in Belgium, Dan broke out a skateboard for a little sidewalk surfing just to keep in practice.
But the Belgium police take a dim view of skateboarding, and Dan was arrested and fined for the following "crimes":
(1) Driving a four-wheeled vehicle without a license.
(2) Driving over 40 kilometers an hour.
(3) Driving a vehicle without a valid driver's license.
(4) Driving a vehicle without lights, horn or brakes.
Dan reports he's going to stick to ocean surfing after this.

So you think American surfing breaks are getting too crowded?
So did Bob Cooper, 28, California surfer and artist who has moved permanently to the less crowded beaches of Australia.
Bob reports he's found a surfing paradise at Alexandra Headland about 70 miles north of Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, Bob, who perfected his surfing at California's Rincon, spends his time in Australia surfing, riding his light-weight motorcycle, painting and managing a surfboard factory for Hayden Kenney, one of Australia's top body surfers (competitive life-savers).
This is bearded Bob's second trip to Australia- and he says he's there to stay, "I've got my permanent residence visa and I really love the easy pace in Australia, especially in Queensland.
It's far more realistic than the bustle of California beaches."
Bob adds that Australian beaches are equal to, if not better than those of Hawaii.
"I like Australia," he said, "it's not paradise and I criticize constructively many aspects of life and thinking- but I'm down under to stay."

Harbour Surfboards, Trestle Special, Banana Model, page 8.
Weber Surfboards: The Performer, page 10.
Surboards Hawaii, Honolulu and Encinitas, page 14.
Jacobs Surfboards: The 422, page 18.
 page 7.
Bing Surfboards: The David Nuuhiwa Nose Riding Model Is Here!, page 88.,
Lunada Bay: Duke Kahanmoku Tennis Shoes, page 90.
Hang Ten: International Team for '66 - Bing Copeland, Greg Nol, Nat Young, Phil Edwards, page 91.
Jantzen: Ricky Grigg, page 92.
Page 18
This is the Jacobs 422.
This is what the Jacobs 422 does.
[Surfriding photographs]
This is why the Jacobs 422 does it.

As the photos illustrate, the 422 is a completely new design in surfboards.
The front half of the board is much wider than the tail section.
And this width will vary depending on the length of the board.
The added width, with a hollowed out effect on the bottom, gives the surfer extra stability and lift while riding the forward portion of the board.
We have then brought the outline of the board in toward the tail section with a slight Iift in the board in toward the tail section with a slight lift in the tail itself.
Another hollowed out effect is shaped on the deck of the tail section.
The combination of the wider nose, along with the narrow "kicked" tail makes noseriding, fast turns and cutbacks easy and fun.
For more information on the "422," write us or better yet, stop by our shop.

Jacobs Surfboards
422 Pacific Coast Hiway 
Hermosa Beach, Calif.
Phone 379-8366

Lunada Bay Enterprises aloha print Surfer-Tennies come in blue, red, green or yellow. 
Get your Tennies and Wet Suits now.

Page 90

Volume 7 Number 1,

John "Wheels" Williams, La Barre, France.
Photograph by Arnaud de Rosnay.

This copy courtesy of the Graham Sorensen Collection.

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home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (2013) : Surfer : Duke and Makaha Contests, 1965.