surfresearch.com.au  jean rouch  : senegal, 1949

An earlier and similar report by James Edward Alexander in 1835 strongly suggests that surf riding was an indigenous practice on the coast of West Africa, and unlikely to be derived from Polynesia.
Further reports, spaning over 100 years; in The Graphic (1891), and by Rouch (1949) and Brown (1966); illustrate that juvenile surfboard riding was an enduring feature of coastal life in West Africa, and these skills were subsequently employed as adults when boating offshore.
See
James Edward Alexander: West Africa, 1835.

The article begins by attempting to scientifically describe  the dynamics of surf riding, with several explanatory illustrations.
Although he does not mention it, Rouch is aware of some literature on wave motion, "the trochoidal theory," and surfboard riding in Hawai'i, Hence his inclusion of "true surf-riding," riding a 2 meter (6ft 6'') board while standing, while this is not reported in his observations at Yoff.

Rouch then relates his observations of surf riding, as "practiced by young fishermen," at the beach at Yoff.
Located north of the city of Dakar, the surf is "most favorable ... at high tide," with rides of fifty meters.
He also reports that surf riding is practised at St. Louis, 260 km north of Dakar, where " they are known to ride a hundred meters."

Given his scientific interest in the dynamics of surf riding, Rouch identifies several beaches he considers have "very favorable" conditions- on the coasts of Morocco and France, and at Cambéréne, Yoff, and Madeleines beaches, adjacent to Dakar.
However, at these locations surf riding is "almost unknown," although he notes that he had occassionally seen it on the Basque coast.

Rouch notes that "this game is called 'Saran' (to slide)," a term very similar to Polynesian terminology, for example the Hawai'ian expression "he'e nalu" translates as "wave-sliding".

Whereas the description of the boards suggest they are relatively crude, "made of an old piece of wood, a barrel stave, or the bottom of an old canoe," some boards have clearly been modified with "a transverse bar known as the 'steering wheel'," and illustrated in Figure 6.
There are several reports of Pacific islanders using sections of a damaged canoe, or canoe parts, as a surfboard.

The preference is to catch unbroken waves waves, and style was apparently assessed by the practitioners; for example, riding with one elbow on the board was considered one (of several?) "fantasies."

A short film by Jean Rouch, Mammy Water (1953-1954), explores traditional water legends and documents the local fisherman using their boats in the surf of the Ghana coast, with a bellyboarding sequence appearing in the last minute of the film (17:00-17:44).
These surfers are adult males and their narrow timber boards appear to be specifically constructed, with at least one with a rounded nose.
There is no board with a  "steering wheel," as described and illustrated by Rouch in the 1949 article.
See :
- vimeo: "Mammy Water" Jean Rouch (1953)
http://vimeo.com/57445578

Mammy Water - Mami Water - Mami Wata (Mother Water) are at once beautiful, protective, seductive, and dangerous water spirits, celebrated throughout much of Africa and the African Atlantic.
A rich array of arts surrounds her, as well as a host of other aquatic spirits--all honoring the essential, sacred nature of water.
Mami Wata is often portrayed as a mermaid, a snake charmer, or a combination of both.

- National Museumof African Art
http://africa.si.edu/exhibits/mamiwata/intro.html

Notes by Herve Magnificat (edited).
The beginning of the article is a scientific description of catching waves, and Rouch notes that he has observed this at Yof, the north part of Dakar city, and at St. Louis, a town 200 km north of Dakar.

The journal was published in Dakar; Sénégal being a French colony at this time.
Jean Rouch (1917-2004), was a French film maker, an ethnologist and a photographer who was entranced by Africa, and living in Senegal at the time of writing.

- wikipedia: Jean Rouch
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jean_Rouch

A short movie filmed by Jean Rouch on the Ghana coast in 1953 (-1955), Mammy Water, explores the traditional water legends and documents the local fisherman using their boats in the surf, with a bellyboarding scene appearing in the last minute of the film.
See :
http://vimeo.com/57445578

In 2002, Ben Finney noted:

"Some years later, while searching through Harvard University’s extensive library system, I chanced upon an article by documentary filmmaker Jean Rouch on native board surfing along the coasts of Senegal and other countries of West Africa.
From the descriptions in Rouch’s article and from photographs sent to me by a Peace Corps volunteer that clearly showed young boys riding prone on small boards, it looked to me that West African surfing was much like paipo surfing.
Yet the first report of paipo dates back to 1835 (James Edward Alexander’s report), and I found no evidence that it had spread to West Africa from Hawaii.
Moreover, the West Africans used crossbars to grip the boards, a feature not found in the Pacific.
These factors led me to conclude that West African surfing probably developed on its own."

- Ben Finney: Whoa, dude ! Surfin’ that old ?, in Colburn (et al.): Surf Culture (2002).

This confirms that that juvenile surfing was already a common and enduring practice in West Africa before the arrival of Bruce Brown, as "documented" in The Endless Summer (1966).

For other reports from West Africa, see:

1812 Henry Meredith : Canoe Surf Riding on Gold Coast, Africa.
1835 James Edward Alexander : West Africa.
1861 Thomas J. Hutchinson : Surfboard Riding in Gabon, Africa.
1876 Hugh Dyer : Surf Boats in West Africa.
1891 The Graphic : Surf Boats, Ghana.
1923 Robert Rattray : Padua at Lake Bosumtwi, Africa.

Principe et description.
Le « surf-riding » (chevauchée des vagues) est un jeu qui consiste à se faire pousser par les vagues du large vers la rive.
La théorie de la houle trochoïdale explique la possibilité d'un tel déplacement.

a) Vague non déferlée
Dans ce cas, il n'y a pas de mouvement de la surface de la mer, les molécules étant animées d'un mouvement circulaire dans un plan vertical mais si un flotteur parvient à se maintenir en équilibre sur le front de la vague, il sera poussé par celle-ci comme une bille posée sur un tapis est poussée par l'onde formée par un crayon que l'on glisse sous ce tapis.
A ce moment, c'est le poids du flotteur qui peut le maintenir sur le front de la vague, mais à la condition qu'il puisse glisser sur la surface de celle-ci, ce principe était appliqué jadis par les péniches dans certains canaux : par un effort de traction supplémentaire, elles dépassaient leur propre vague et se faisaient pousser par l'onde solitaire ainsi formée, la traction n'intervenant plus que pour maintenir la position d'équilibre.
Ajoutons que cet équilibre se réalisera plus facilement si l'angle de front de la vague sur l'horizontale  (angle d de la figure 1) est le plus grand possible, c'est-à-dire par une houle en eau peu profonde (onde solitaire d'un canal, ou vague arrivant au rivage).

b) Vague déferlante
Dans ce cas, il y a un déplacement véritable des molécules d'eau formant la vague : tout se passe comme si cette tranche d'eau glissait sur une tranche d'eau inférieure. Si le flotteur parvient à se maintenir dans la partie active de la vague (front) il sera poussé jusqu'au rivage.

c) Description du « surf-riding »
Le jeu consiste à se servir de ces deux principes, à prendre le plus au large possible  une vague non déferlée et à se faire pousser par elle jusqu'au déferlement puis au rivage. Cet exercice peut se pratiquer de différentes façons :

1. Nage
Le nageur démarre un peu avant que la vague soit sur lui pour être rattrapé au maximum de vitesse. Si le nageur va à une vitesse à peu près égale à celle de la vague, il sera poussé par elle à condition qu'il s'y maintienne par la réaction (R de la figure 2) des mouvements de bras sur le pied de la vague ; ce système a l'inconvénient de demander un gros effort et d'être impossible en petiote profondeurs (inférieures à la longueur des bras).

2. Glissade sans planche
Le nageur se lance comme précédemment, mais une fois « pris », il s'allonge complètement sur l'eau, la tête entre les bras, les mains à plat. La réaction sur les mains et les bras glissant sur le front de la vague non déferlée ou sur la couche d'eau inférieure sur laquelle se déplace la vague déferlée permet l'équilibre à condition que la vitesse de la vague soit assez grande, mais ce système à l'inconvénient d'empêcher toute respiration et toute vision pendant le parcours.

3. Glissade avec petite planche
Par contre si le nageur s'appuie sur une simple planche (0,60 X 0,30 par exemple), la réaction R (figure 4) verticale est beaucoup plus importante et permet à la tête (et souvent au buste) d'être entièrement hors de l'eau. Une fois la vague prise, aucun autre effort n'est plus nécessaire. Le nageur doit simplement prendre garde à bien orienter sa planche (inclinée avant le déferlement, presqu'horizontale après) ; il sera poussé jusqu'à l'échouage. De plus, en inclinant la planche latéralement, le nageur est, dans une certaine mesure, maître de sa direction.

4. Glissade avec une grande planche
Avec une planche de 2 mètres de long, épaisse et légère, le nageur parvient à se mettre debout, c'est là le vrai « surf-riding »(figure 5).

[Image 5]

Pratique de ce jeu en Afrique

Nous avons assisté à ce jeu au village de Yof.« Surf-riding sur la côte d’Afrique »

Principe et description.
Le « surf-riding » (chevauchée des vagues) est un jeu qui consiste à se faire pousser par les vagues du large vers la rive. La théorie de la houle trochoïdale explique la possibilité d'un tel déplacement.

a) Vague non déferlée
Dans ce cas, il n'y a pas de mouvement de la surface de la mer, les molécules étant animées d'un mouvement circulaire dans un plan vertical mais si un flotteur parvient à se maintenir en équilibre sur le front de la vague, il sera poussé par celle-ci comme une bille posée sur un tapis est poussée par l'onde formée par un crayon que l'on glisse sous ce tapis. A ce moment, c'est le poids du flotteur qui peut le maintenir sur le front de la vague, mais à la condition qu'il puisse glisser sur la surface de celle-ci, ce principe était appliqué jadis par les péniches dans certains canaux : par un effort de traction supplémentaire, elles dépassaient leur propre vague et se faisaient pousser par l'onde solitaire ainsi formée, la traction n'intervenant plus que pour maintenir la position d'équilibre. Ajoutons que cet équilibre se réalisera plus facilement si l'angle de front de la vague sur l'horizontale  (angle d de la figure 1) est le plus grand possible, c'est-à-dire par une houle en eau peu profonde (onde solitaire d'un canal, ou vague arrivant au rivage).

Il est pratiqué par les jeunes pêcheurs.
Ils pratiquent la glissade avec la planche.
Celle-ci est un vieux bout de bois, une douve de tonneau, ou le fond d'une vieille pirogue.
Certaines planches sont munies d'une barre transversale dite le « volant » (figure 6).

Les plus habiles se servent de toutes petites planches et se livrent à des « fantaisies » (un coude appuyé sur la planche comme sur la photographie).
Ce jeu s'appelle « saran » (glisser).
Les indigènes ont tendance à ne prendre que des vagues non déferlées (ce qui est beaucoup plus facile) et battent des pieds presque tout le temps (ce qui ne sert à rien à partir du moment où la vague est prise).
Ce jeu se pratique au Sénégal depuis fort longtemps.
A Saint-Louis, par mer assez dure, on arriverait à parcourir ainsi une centaine de mètres.
A Yof, à marée haute (la plus favorable), des trajets de 50 mètres sont courants.
Le « surf game » est signalé à Accra par James Alexander (« Colonies of Western Africa ») dès 1837 : « on pouvait voir pendant ce temps dans la baie des garçons nageant dans la mer, des planches légères sous

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leur estomac.
Ils attendaient une vague, et alors ils venaient en roulant dedans… »

Il serait intéressant de rechercher l'origine en Afrique de ce jeu, qui, quoique très simple, n'est pas très instinctif.
Ainsi, il est à peu près inconnu sur la côte du Maroc (cependant très favorable), parmi les Européens de Dakar (qui peuvent le pratiquer à Camberène, à Yof ou plus simplement à la plage des Madeleines) et en France.
Je ne l'ai vu pratiqué que de façon sporadique sur la côte basque. »

Page 5x

Principle and description.
The "surf-riding" (ride waves) is a game that is being pushed by large waves to shore.
The trochoidal wave theory explains the possibility of such a move.

a) Non-breaking Wave
In this case, there is no movement of the sea surface, the molecules are moving in a circular motion in a vertical plane, but if a float manages to maintain balance on the front of the wave, it will be pushed by the latter as a ball placed on a mat is pushed by the wave formed by a rod that slides in this mouse.
At this point, the weight of the float can keep it on the front of the wave, but on condition that it can slide on the surface of it, this principle was applied once by barges in some channels : for additional traction, they exceeded their own wave and were pushed from the solitary wave thus formed, traction not intervening to maintain the equilibrium position.
Adding that this balance will be achieved more easily if the angle of the wave front on the horizontal (Figure 1) is the largest possible, that is to say by a wave in shallow water (solitary wave in a channel or wave reaching the shore).

b) Surf
In this case, there is a real movement of water molecules forming the wave: it is as if the water layer slipped on a slice of bottom water.
If the float is able to remain in the active part of the wave (front) will be pushed to shore.

c) Description of "surf-riding"
The game is to use these two principles to ride the non-breaking and breaking wave, all the way to shore.
This exercise can be done in different ways:

1. Swimming
The swimmer starts a bit before the wave is on him, to be caught up by its speed.
If the swimmer's speed is approximately equal to that of the wave, they will be pushed forward, provided they remain in position by reacting (R in Figure 2) with arm movements at the foot of the wave, this system has the disadvantage of requiring a great effort (and is impossible in depths of less than the length of the arm).

2. Without sliding board
The swimmer starts as before, but once "caught", they lie completely on the water, head between arms, hands flat.
The reaction on the hands and arms sliding on the front of the unbroken wave unfurled or not, the water layer below on which the wave moves unfurled allows balance provided that the speed of the wave is large enough, but this system restricts breathing and vision.

[Image 3]

3. Ride with small board
By contrast, if the swimmer has a simple board (0.60m X 0.30m for example), the vertical reaction R (Figure 4) is much
greater and allows the head (and often the body) to be entirely out of the water.
Once the wave breaks, no further effort is necessary.
The swimmer must simply be careful to orient the board (inclined before the flood on the horizontal, below) and will be pushed to the shore.
Furthermore, by tilting the board sideways, the swimmer is in, to some extent, control its direction.

4. Ride with a large board
With a board of 2 meters long, thick and light, the swimmer is able to stand up, this is the true "surf-riding" (Figure 5).

Practice of this game in Africa.

We have seen this game in the village of Yof.
It is practiced by young fishermen.
They practice the sliding with a board.
This is either made of an old piece of wood, a barrel stave, or the bottom of an old canoe.
Some boards are equiped with a transverse bar known as the "steering wheel" (FIG. 6, see below).

The most skillful ones use very small boards and do "fantasies" (one elbow on the board as in the photograph).
This game is called "Saran" (to slide).
The natives prefer to catch unbroken waves waves (which is much easier) and beat their feet almost all the time (which is useless from the point where the wave is taken).
This game is played in Senegal for a long time.
In St. Louis, by rough sea, they are known to ride a hundred meters.
At Yof at high tide (most favorable) 50 meters ride are common.
The "surf game" is reported in Accra by James Alexander ("Colonies of Western Africa") in 1837, "From the beach, meanwhile, might be seen boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under

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their stomachs.
They waited for a surf; and then came rolling in like a cloud on the top of it. "

It would be interesting to investigate the origin of the game in Africa, which, although very simple, is not very instinctive.
Thus, it is almost unknown on the coast of Morocco (though very favorable), among Europeans community of Dakar (who can practice at Cambéréne, at Yof or simply on Madeleines beach), and in France.
I have only seen it practiced from time to time on the Basque coast.

Rouch, Jean: Surf-riding sur la Côte d'Afrique. Notes Africaines IFAN (Institut français d’Afrique noire) Dakar, Number 42, Avril, 1949. Located and translated by  Herve Magnificat, 14 April 2013.

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