surfresearch.com.au
home catalogue history references appendix

Return to Surfer Bio
                menu
surfresearch.com.au 
newspapers : 1930 

 Newspaper Extracts : 1930.

1929
Newspapers
Menu
1931

Introduction
See: Newspaper Menu : Introduction.

Menu
Table Talk
Melbourne,Thursday 2 January 1930, pages 14-16.


REMINISCENCES OF STAGE AND SPORT
The Coming and Going of "Lazy"
Bv OSCAR ASCHF

The Australian actor relates in this second instalment of his life story how during his
 vagabond existence
he adopted a little orphan girl.
Page 16
...

[In Sydney]
 I went round to Petty's Hotel, where a friend, Dick Burton, was staying.
He was several years my senior, a plantation-owner in the South Sea Islands.
He used to visit Sydney for a spree for one month every two years, and spend all his two years' income in that one month.
He was off to Fiji the following day, and I planned going with him.
...
We passed through the heads the following morning in our 200-ton wind-jammer.
A sunny day and a fresh breeze.
The craft was a regular trader, to the Solomon. Ellis and Fiji group in copra, shell, bananas, coconuts, and other fruits.
...
We landed at Suva, as Dick had his yacht to sail us over to his particular patch of palms and plantains, about 25 miles away from Ziti Lovu.
The schooner was to pick me up on its return.

A most affectionate greeting awaited Dick from his six frizzy haired wives, all very much alike.
Reminded me rather of ten little nigger boys nursery rhyme.
Orders were given for a feast in my honor the following evening, or was it two evenings hence?
As most Fijian cooking is by slow process under ground, the preparations take some time.

Those glorious islands!
The wondrous sleepy beauty of them!
I think I got mv love of color there.
Color absolutely alive.
Bronze skins clad in orange, green, saffron, blue, sliding along coral pathways under giant verdant palms against azure seas and
skies.
And, beyond the white surf and the rollers breaking on the reef, the islanders manipulating their outrigger canoes, sail through the gap and up to the yellow sands.
And that night I gazed upon the most enchanting moonlight scene I have ever seen on stage or off.

Next day, one loafed down in pyjamas to the beach and surf bathed.
The wives brought fire end utensils to the waterside, with luscious fruit and tea and dainty scones and cakes by no means native in their origin.
There one basked the morning sun, sometimes rousing up to bathe again, or ride in on the surf-boats, or fish out by the reef, all the while tended on by the wives or servants.

Trove
1930 'REMINISCENCES OF STAGE AND SPORT THE COMING AND GOING OF "LAZY"', Table Talk (Melbourne, Vic. : 1885 - 1939), 2 January, p. 16. , viewed 23 May 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article146585915

The Argus
Melbourne, Thursday, 2 January 1930, page 5.


SURFING AT PORTSEA

Almost hidden in seething foam, surfers were thrown shorewards by breaker
on the back beach at Portsea yesterday.


Trove
1930 'SURFING AT PORTSEA.', The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848 - 1957), 2 January, p. 5. , viewed 23 May 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article4060033

Nambour Chronicle and North Coast Advertiser
Queensland, Friday 3 January 1930, page 8.

 Maroochydore
VARIED ATTRACTIONS.


The chief attraction of the day is the surfing and swimming.
The increased popularity of the surfboard is a noticeable factor to the former sport.
Though dangerous, followers of this aquatic pastime have an area set aside and do not hinder bathers.

The Australasian
Melbourne, Saturday, 11 January 1930, page 61.


SYDNEY TOPICS
(S.J.Hood photos)

Women experts of the surf- board at Palm Beach.
From Left.-Mrs. Samuels and Miss Norah McAuliffe.


Trove

1930 'SYDNEY TOPICS.', The Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 - 1946), 11 January, p. 61. (METROPOLITAN EDITION), viewed 06 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article141425116


The Australasian
Melbourne,  11 January, page 60.


HOLIDAY MAKERS AT PORTSEA

An unusual view of surfers entering the water.
The picture was taken in the surf looking towards the beach.


Surfers on their surf-boards
at back beach.


Sweeping round a curve at 25 miles an hour in the wake of a fast motor-launch,
this young aquaplaner kept his balance.

Surfers enjoyed the exhilaration of
riding the breakers.

Trove
1930 'HOLIDAY MAKERS AT PORTSEA (V.).', The Australasian (Melbourne, Vic. : 1864 - 1946), 11 January, p. 60. (METROPOLITAN EDITION), viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article141425115

The Newcastle Sun
 3 February 1930, page 8
.

BIG ENTRIES
..
The surf board race will he decided in
two heats, with the local exponents, in Riordan, Newcastle, and Hull, Swansea, being opposed by seven experienced surf board riders from Sydney, including C. J.McAlister and L. McEnnally, from Manly.
The second heat, G. Scott and C. Brown (Newcastle), and R. Walters (Swansea), will have boards from Manly (2), Cronulla (2), North Bondi, and Colloroy (sic) to compete against.

Trove
1930 'BIG ENTRIES', The Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), 3 February, p. 8. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article165805121

The Newcastle Sun
7 February 1930, page 10.


Surf Board Exhibition

T. J. McAlister, H. A. Thompson, A.
Lyons, and J. Richardson, from Manly Club; F. L. Horley. North Steyne: S.Chequer, Colloroy (sic); K. Weeks, F. Boorman, J. Cunningham, and G. Laidlaw from Bondi; and R. Bowden, R. Michaelis, R. Tanner, and J. Bedley, from Cronulla, will be competing in the surf board event in addition to local exponents in Riordan, Scott, and Brown, Newcastle; R. Hall and R. Walters, from Swansea.

Trove
1930 'Newcastle's Big Surf Carnival To-morrow', The Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), 7 February, p. 10. , viewed 06 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article165787498


Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate
10 February 1930, page 9.

 SURF CARNIVAL
Results:
...
Surf Board Exhibition: F. Boorman
(North Bondi) 1, S. Chequer (Collaroy) 2.

Trove
1930 'SURF CARNIVAL.', Newcastle Morning Herald and Miners' Advocate (NSW : 1876 - 1954) , 10 February, p. 9, viewed 20 October, 2014, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article133402408
Western Mail
Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 13 February 1930, page 2.


2. BALANCE:
These
surf board riders at Manly Beach, Sydney, can
travel a quarter of a mile through boiling surf merely by balance and by steering with the feet.

Trove
1930 'INCIDENTS FROM THE EASTERN STATES: Life in Sydney and Melbourne.', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 13 February, p. 2 Supplement: PICTORIAL SECTION, viewed 20 October, 2014,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article37685828


The Border Star
Coolangatta, 13 February 1930, page 3.

A New Freak.
SURF-BOARD PADDLING

A Honolulu message states that Tom
Blake, of that centre, riding a freakshaped, cigar-like surf-board, established a world's record in the 100 yards surf-board paddling event.
Blake's time way; 35 1-5 sec, or 5 sec faster than the mark established last year by Eldric Cooke in Honolulu.
The
new record was made on a canal in the Waikiki district, under the auspices of the Honolulu Recreation Commission.

Blake has pointed out that while the board may appear as a freak in
comparison with the majority of the wooden 7 steeds used at Waikiki, it is similar in its lines of construction to the surf-boards used by the early Hawaiians.
Models now on display
the Bishop Museumi here were studied by Blake, in designing his acinatic speed demon.
The surf-board is built like a cigar, tapering to a
point at both ends.
The modern surf-boards used Waikiki beach are wider
and taper to a point at the front, resembling overgrown ironing boards.
Blake has expressed the belief that the cigar-shaped board will be used more and more for racing purposes, and he is building other surf-boards, to conform with the ancient Hawaiian design.

While the surf-boards are propelled by the padding power of the
riders in races, they are frequently used in the Waikiki surf to ride the breakers that carry the boards shorewards for hundreds of yards at lightening speed.
Surf-boarding is considered the Hawaiian sport of kings, and mastery of vthe boards is an art that requires great skill and prolonged practice.
(The above should interest Syd. Chapman, Bill Davies and other local surf-board experts.

Trove
1930 'A New Freak.', The Border Star (Coolangatta, Qld. : 1929 - 1942), 13 February, p. 3. , viewed 15 Jun 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article226597780


Truth
Perth, 16 February 1930, page 16


REAL SURFING.


A well-known wool-buyer, Mr. Jack Hammer of Adelaide shows the "boys" at Scarborough the real way to use a surf board.
He is one of South Australia's cleverest exponents.

Trove
1930 'The Trial of the Golden Past', Truth (Perth, WA : 1903 - 1931), 16 February, p. 16. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article210494639

The Richmond River Herald and Northern Districts Advertiser
18 February 1930, page 1.

SURFERS' DELIGHT
FREAK SURF BOARD.

A Honolulu message, that may have more than passing interest for the surf board kings of Evans River, states that Tom Blake, of that centre, riding a freak shaped, cigar-like surf-board, established a world's record in the 100 yards surf board paddling event. Blake's time was 35 1-5 sec., or 5 secs. faster than the mark established last year by Edric Cooke in Honolulu.
The new record was made
on a canal in the Waikiki district, under tlie auspices of the Honolulu Recreation Commission.
Blake has pointed ou. that, while his board may appear as a freak in comparison with the majority of the wooden steeds used at Waikiki, it is similar in its lines of construction to the surf boards used by the early Hawaiians.
Models now on  display at the Bishop
Museum there were studied by Blake in designing his aquatic speed demon.
The
surf-board is built like a cigar, tapering to a point at both ends.
The modern
surf-boards used at Waikiki beach are wider and taper to a point at the front, resembling overgrown ironing boards. Blake has expressed the belief that the cigar-shaped board will be used more and more for racing purposes, and he is building other surf-boards to conform with the ancient Hawaiian design.
While the surf-boards are propelled by
the paddling power of the riders in races, they are frequently used in the Waikiki surf to ride the breakers that carry the boards shore-wards fo. hundreds of yards at lightning speed.
Surf-boarding is considered the Ha
waiian sport of kings, and mastery of the boards is an art that requires great skill and prolonged practice.

Trove
1930 'SURFERS' DELIGHT.', The Richmond River Herald and Northern Districts Advertiser (NSW : 1886 - 1942), 18 February, p. 1, viewed 20 October, 2014,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126358381

Western Mail
Perth,  6 March 1930, page 25.


ON HIS HEAD

A surf-board expert demonstrating how easy it is at Manly Beach, Sydney.
Surf-boards are becoming very popular at Scarborough, though nobody has yet learned to stand on his head.

Trove
1930 'SWIMMING.', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 6 March, p. 25. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article38517467


The Register News-Pictorial
Adelaide, 7 March 1930, page 14.


BROTHER AND SISTER- SURF RIDERS

Miss Elaine de Chair and Lieut. Graham de Chair, daughter and son respectively of the Governor of New South Wales have become as expert at surf board riding as Australians, during their stay at Palm Beach.

Trove
1930 'Ministers Attend Final Sessions Of Conference: Harvesting Salt: Youths Evade The Heat: Snook Plentiful.', The Register News-Pictorial (Adelaide, SA : 1929 - 1931), 7 March, p. 14, viewed 20 October, 2014,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article53498531


See better image below.

Daily Advertiser
Wagga Wagga,  7 March 1930, page 7.


SOCIAL GOSSIP

(By Our Sydney Correspondent)

The State Governor and Lady de Chair, accompanied by Miss Blaine and Lieutenant de Chair, are holidaying at Palm Beach, having taken Mr. A. J. Hordern's seaside home, 'Kalua,' for a time.
The two latter are thoroughly
enjoying the thrills of surf-board riding, Miss de Chair being an expert rider since her trip to Honolulu, where she was instructed in all the fine points of the art and has taught her brother, who proved an apt pupil, the unrehearsed duckings, always incidental to the beginners' course, making more fun.
Lady de Chair has also been en
joying surfing, just the ordinary dip, as she laughingly says.

Trove
1930 'SOCIAL GOSSIP.', Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga, NSW : 1911 - 1954), 7 March, p. 7, viewed 20 October, 2014,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article142753351


The Newcastle Sun
Tuesday, 11 March 1930, page 3.





Near the end of a long ride on
his surf board.


Trove
1930 'No title', The Newcastle Sun (NSW : 1918 - 1954), 11 March, p. 3. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article165787776



Western Mail
Perth,  20 March 1930, page 3.


(1) VICE-REGAL SURF-RIDERS: Miss Elaine de Chair and her brother, Lieutenant Graham de Chair, became quite expert at surf-board riding during a recent holiday at Palm Beach, near Sydney.
They are the son and daughter of the Governor of New South Wales.

Trove
1930 'a page for women and perhaps MEN.', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 20 March, p. 3. (The Western Mail), viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article38510813


The Central Queensland Herald
Rockhampton,  20 March 1930, page 20.


SURF BOARD RIDER

MISS ELAINE DE CHAIR, daughter of the Governor of New South Wales,
snapped at Palm Beach, Sydney, where the family Is enjoying a holiday.











Trove

1930 'SURF BOARD RIDER.', The Central Queensland Herald (Rockhampton, Qld. : 1930 - 1956), 20 March, p. 20. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article70266110


Western Mail
Perth,  20 March 1930, page 3.


A page for women, and perhaps men

(1) VICE-REGAL SURF-RIDERS: Miss Elaine de Chair and her brother,

Lieutenant Graham de Chair, became quite expert at surf-board
riding during a recent holiday at Palm Beach, near Sydney.
They are the son and daughter of the Governor of New South Wales.

Trove
1930 'a page for women and perhaps MEN.', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 20 March, p. 3. (The Western Mail), viewed 12 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article38510813


The West Australian
Perth,
Saturday 14 June 1930, page 14.

Surfing Then, and Now.
Some amusing reminiscences of the early days of surfing in New South Wales were given by Mr. Basil Kirke, a foundation member of the Manly Surf Life Saving Club at the annual dinner of the Surf. Life Saving Association of Western Australia , last night.
The municipal authorities in
New South Wales, he said, formerly displayed a bovine stupidity in relation to surfing, which contrasted strangely with the freedom of to-day.
In 1906, a stout
German flouted their authority, by surfing on a Sunday and was fined £2/10/.
On the
following Sunday, he repeated his offence; and was again prosecuted.
He appealed to
the Supreme Court; which upheld his plea and the introduction of surfing in New South Wales followed.
"About the
same time," Mr. Kirke added, "two American, girls, unaware of the stupid prejudice of the, authorities, strolled down to the beach in Canadian bathers, covered by kimonos.
The wind caused their kimonos
to flap about and display their shapely limbs.
They were promptly arrested by a
pompous policeman, and fined £2, with costs, for indecent exposure!"

Trove
1930 'NEWS AND NOTES.', The West Australian (Perth, WA : 1879 - 1954), 14 June, p. 14, viewed 2 September, 2013,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article33350887

Sporting Globe
Melbourne,  20 August 1930,
page 11S.

Honolulu's Welcome
Australian Team Entertained

(By Our Special Representative travelling with the Australian Empire Games Team).

Standing off the Island waiting the arrival of the port health and immigration officers, the beautiful outlines of the pleasure resort, bathed in the warm afternoon sun, presented ; a very pretty picture.
The formalities over, the big liner commenced to nose her way slowly into the wharf. When with In striking distance, however, she was surrounded by brown-skinned natlv swimming all round the vessel, calling for coins, which, when thrown Into the water, were recovered very cleverly by diving
Meanwhile representatives of A.A.U. of Honolulu and the Rotary Club had boarded the ship to come officially the visiting athletes, and in conformity with native Hawaiian custom, placed a beautiful floral lei around the neck of cach member of the team.
The lei is garland of dellciously perfumed flowers, and is a token of welcome and farewell.
A band was gaily playing Hawaiian airs on the wharf, and as the Australians landed on the dock, struck up the British National Anthem.
This little touch of sentiment greatly touched the Aussies.
Eager to see as much of the place ; possible in the short space of time available, the Australians were immediately taken in cars to Waikikl Beach, known the whole world over as the playground of millionaires.
Keen to train, the swimmers were taken to the Memorial Baths, a magnificent pool 110ft. long, and the athlete, White, Bascombe, Hlllhouse and Golding, to the Polo grounds—a beautiful grass track.

 MET THE DUKE

At the baths the boys were introduced to Duke Kahanamoku, the famous Hawaiian swimmer, who won at the Olympic Games in 1920-1924, and visited Australia a few years back.
Although getting up in years, Duke showed that he had lost little of his pace by swimming 100 yards in 68 sec.
A team of swimmers from Yale University was also present, working out In preparation for a meeting against the Meijl University, Honolulu.
"Buster" Crabbe, the American middle distance champion swimmer, whom Duke Kahanamoku predicts will win at the next Olympiad at Los Angeles in 1932, and Albert Zorllla, the Argentinian, who sensationally defeated "Boy" Charlton and Ame Borg at the last Games at Amsterdam, were expected to arrive next day to take part in the meeting.
It was a pity that the visit of the Australians, particularly the swimmers, could not coincide with the meeting.
However, they were compensated by witnessing a wonderful surf board exhibition by Kahanamoku in the magnificent surf at Waikiki.
The famous beach was a trifle disappointing to Australians, in whose opinion, it could not compare with of the beaches around Sydney.

...
HAWAIIAN- SEND-OFF
Again the band was in attendance, and, to add to the impressiveness of the situation, two native singers rendered Hawaiian melodies.
It was a wonderful scene, and a thousand cameras clicked as the liner drew away to the accompaniment of cheers, music and the perfume of flowers.
Again the native swimmers were in evidence, and one fellow, more daring than the rest, actually clambered aboard the vessel, and mounting to the top deck, dived Into the sea.
He was rewarded by a shower of coins, all of which he recovered.


Trove
1930 'Honolulu’s Welcome.', Sporting Globe (Melbourne, Vic. : 1922 - 1954), 20 August, p. 11 Edition: Edition2, Section: Athletic Section, viewed 19 May, 2015,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article182992789

Table Talk
Melbourne, 11 September 1930, page 27
.

Our Trip Around the World
By DOUGLAS FAIRBANKS AND MARY PICKFORD
In the concluding article of the series Mary Pickford records their impressions of Hawaii.

...
The Stars and Stripes Again

The day the Asama Maru arrived in Honolulu was one of those perfect days that one associates with tropical islands.
The sea and sky were a gorgeous blue in the brilliant sunshine and there was a gentle breeze that put life into the flags that decorated the port
 It was inspiring to see the Stars and Stripes again, especially floating over such an attractive spot.
A welcoming committee composed of Lorin P. Thurston, a former Yale athlete who had promised to take Douglas surfing if he ever came to Honolulu, "Dad" Center and Duke Kahanamoku, the famous swimmer, came on board at the port to decorate us with leis.
When we reached the dock they conducted us to their motor cars for a brief sightseeing tour before proceeding to the beach at Waikiki.


Every moment heightened the first impression Honolulu had made on us.
We saw the Island of Oahu from the Pali, a precipice a few miles back of the city, and returned over the Tantalus road, a magnificent mountain drive to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
The beach was our Mecca and with out even having luncheon we hurried into our bathing suits for our first experience with surfing.


A Ride in an Outrigger

Mr Thurston, who is the president of the Outrigger Canoe Club on the famous coral beach, had two big canoes in readiness for us.
Douglas and Jack got into one with "Dad
Center," while I cast my lot with Albert Parker and Duke Kahanamoku.

Those outrigger canoes, were equipped with outboard motors, and we were soon a mile and a half out from shore, waiting to catch one of the big waves that break on the coral reefs and ride in on the crest of it.
We had only to wait a moment.
When our helmsman saw the wave coming he swung the canoe around, and, catching its' crest, we came in to shore at express train speed.


It is marvellous sport.
And only at Waikiki Beach is it possible, for the reefs, a mile and a half off shore, break the waves in such a manner that only their tops come in to shore.
There was only a light sea running the afternoon of our first visit, but it provided us with plenty of thrills.
For after Douglas and I had ridden in three or four times in the canoes we got up enough courage to at tempt it with surf boards.


It requires a lot of practice to ride a surf board like the natives at Waikiki Beach.
It is not only a trick to keep one's balance on the narrow plank as it rides on the top of the wave, but to get into an upright position takes acrobatic ability.
When a big sea is running only the most expert of surf rider's attempt it.
Fortunately the waves were not particularly high, and, with Duke Kahanamoku as my instructor, I went out to the reef with a surf board.
With his aid I managed to gain my feet on the little strip of planking, and I was so proud as I balanced myself on the crest of the wave that I shouted to Douglas, who was riding his board nearby, to watch me.
But my triumph was short-lived.
The words wore
hardly out of my mouth when I fell off into the sea, and if it had not been for Duke Kahanamoku some one would have had to come to my rescue.
A second, and even a third, attempt met with the same results, but at least I was able to stand up long enough to get the thrill of the
sport.

Trove
1930 'Our Trip Around the World.', Table Talk (Melbourne, Vic. : 1885 - 1939), 11 September, p. 27, viewed 20 October, 2014,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article146454291

Evening Star.
Washington, D.C.), October 12, 1930, page 119.
Sliding in on top of a comber.
Hawaiian natives display their skill as surfboard riders off the famous Waikiki beach.
(copyright) Underwood & Underwood.





Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, October 12, 1930, Image 119
Image and text provided by Library of Congress, Washington, DC
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045462/1930-10-12/ed-1/seq-119/



Mirror
Perth, Saturday 18 October 1930, page 4.

BROADCAST PROGRAMMES. 6WF.
...
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 23
...
9.43 Lilian etiarpham. 'Bird of Love Divine' (Haydn Wood), 'Daffodil Days' (Phillips;;
9.50 Talk by Basil KirKe: 'The History of Surf Bathing in Australia';
10.5 Dance programme broadcast from Temple Court cabaret.

Trove
1930 'WHAT THE WIRELESS.', Mirror (Perth, WA : 1921 - 1956), 18 October, p. 4, viewed 2 September, 2013,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article75487120\

The Sun
Sydney, 12 November 1930, page 4.

ON THE WAVES
(By Beltman)
...
Anyone requiring a surf board should apply to Mr. B. Chequer, president of the Collaroy Club.
He will give all particulars, and make it, too.

Trove
1930 'ON THE WAVES', The Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), 12 November, p. 4. , viewed 17 Jun 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article225339577


The Week
Brisbane,  5 December 1930, page 42.



TWO ON A SURF BOARD

Trove
1930 'TWO ON A SURF BOARD.', The Week (Brisbane, Qld. : 1876 - 1934), 5 December, p. 42. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article182577978


Sydney Mail
 24 December 1930, page 26.


— Holidays in the Surf

On hot days in the holidays Sydney's chief delight is the surf, and if the right weather
prevails every beach on the coast will be crowded with bathers.
As the years roll on the surf swimmers become more and more expert in riding the waves.
The delights of the cool, crystal-clear water and the foamy wave-tops are varied by fascinating exhibitions of skill by surfers who come in to the beach carried by the combers or standing erect on surf -boards.
The picture on the right shows a girl travelling landward on a high Wave.
 Further to the right is the familiar sight of the bathers judging the right moment and taking off for the ride, and below it a similar incident as seen from the beach.
The great majority of bathers, however, are the inexperts, who simply enjoy  the paddling and tumbling in the foam, as in the photograph below.
The centre figure shows the poise of a surf-board rider as he comes dashing in - truly riding the waves.

Trove

1930 'Holidays in the Surf', Sydney Mail (NSW : 1912 - 1938), 24 December, p. 26. , viewed 06 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article15965751


1929
Newspapers
Menu
1931

Return to Surfer Bio menu
surfresearch.com.au
home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (1997-2016) : Newspapers, 1930.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1930_Newspapers.html