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newspapers : 1928 

 Newspaper Extracts : 1928.
1927
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1929

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The Sydney Morning Herald
 3 January 1928, page 9.

SURF THRILLS.
NEWPORT CARNIVAL.

Boats Disabled.
Heavy seas, the aftermath of Sunday afternoon's southerly gale, made the surf exceedingly treacherous for the surf boat races at the Newport surf carnival yesterday afternoon.
A number of the competing boats were swamped, and several competitors received slight Injuries.
A deep, wide channel existed along the beach, and huge waves bumped heavily on tho sandbank on the seaward side of the
channel.
Many of the swimmers had hard tussles against the breakers, and in the rescue event some of the beltmen experienced difficulty in reaching their "patients."
The heavy sea was a fine test for the competitors, who displayed remarkable endurance.

BOAT RACE.
The real thrills of the carnival were provided by tho surf boat race.
The event was decided in two heats and a final, and each contest was marked by exciting incidents.
Crews from the Manly, Dee Why, North Steyne and North Narrabeen Clubs competed in the first boat, and the four boats were buffeted by the big seas from the moment they touched the water.
The North Steyne boat, In charge of H. C. Evans, was struck by a huge wave and the captain had difficulty In retaining hold of the "sweep."
Soon after leaving the beach the Dee Why boat was swamped, and one of the crew, G. Opperman, vice-captain of the club, received a slight injury.
Either the boat, or one of the oars, hit him, and he had to be brought ashore and treated by other competitors.
The Manly boat, the Sawfish, was first round the buoy, and when "shooting" towards the beach on a breaker the captain, R. Ford, was thrown out of the boat, but with some difficulty was able to got aboard again.
In the second heat, Collaroy, Newport, and Freshwater were the competitors.
Freshwater got away nicely, but the Collaroy and Newport boats were soon in trouble.
Both the craft became waterlogged and were brought back to the beach.
The water was emptied out of the boats, which then resumed the race.
The Collaroy boat was well handled by the captain, W. Forbes, and although the captain of the Newport boat, Gordon Robertson, made a great effort to get through the seas, the craft was again swamped, and had to be towed ashore with a line.

THREE BOATS DISABLED.

In the final of the event the "Sawfish" had matters all its own way.
There were four competitors- Manly, Freshwater, Collaroy, and North Steyne.
First the Freshwater boat was swamped, and a moment later the Collaroy boat filled with water.
Both the latter boats returned to the beach, and the Collaroy crew, having broken an oar, retired from the race.
While crossing the bank beyond the channel the North Steyne boat, in attempting to "ride" a huge wave, turned over with the crew beneath It.
The members of the team extricated themselves and brought their boat ashore.
Just as the "Sawfish" had finished the race, the North Steyne boat was launched again, and rowed the course.
In the meantime the Freshwater boat had made a second attempt to get out, but again returned to the beach.
While  excitement was running high, and the crews were working at high pressure to get their boats away, a competitor gave a fine display of surf-board shooting, standing on the board, and also standing on his head on the board while it rode the breakers to the beach.
TANGLED IN LIFELINES.

In the first heat of the alarm reel race, Newport's beltman, R. Rolfe, had a thrilling experience.
The lines of the other competing teams got tangled round his body and dragged him under the water.
He was brought ashore, suffering the effects of the immersion, but soon recovered.
Several other minor mishaps happened during the afternoon, but none of them was of a serious nature.

SMART RESCUES AT MANLY.

A strong surf which was running on Manly Beach yesterday morning increased the responsibilities of the Iife-savers.
A number of people got into difficulties.
Between 11 and 12 o'clock 10 surfers had to be brought to safety, but owing to the vigilance of the surf club officials, none got very far beyond the danger line.
The rescues of two persons who had been carried out a considerable distance, which were effected by life-saver L. McIntosh by
means of a surf board, were regarded as being smart and skilful.
The second rescue was particularly difficult and the life-saver received a great ovation when he returned to the beach.
On other beaches several people had to be assisted.

Trove
1928 'SURF THRILLS.', The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), 3 January, p. 9. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article16431285


Evening News
Sydney, Tuesday, 3 January 1928, page 5.


SURF RESCUES IN HEAVY SEA
BATHERS FIGHT FIRE


HEAVY seas were running on all beaches yesterday, which were attended by tremendous crowds.
Numbers of surfers got into difficulties, and lifesavers had a busy day.
There was a unique incident at Manly, where a member of the local life saving club, McAlister, using a surf board, effected a fine rescue.
Olare and Ryan also figured in surf board rescues.
George Pike, lifesaver, received a nasty gash, when be went to the rescue of a man.
His chin came in contact with the patient's head.
Four stitches were necessary.
L. Gorman and R. Phillips also put in good work.
One man, in the excitement, donned a belt and went to the rescue of a lifesaver who was not in any difficulty.
When the 'patient' refused help he tried to force a rescue.
Eventually the man had to be hauled in.
There were several rescues at Palm Beach in which Adrian Curlewis, son of Mr. Justice Curlewis and captain of the club, and Braddick figured.
OUT OF FRYING PAN

Bathers who went to Bronte to escape the heat were called upon to light a fire.
Early in the afternoon thick scrub above the baths caught alight, and as It seemed that a blazing mass would fall on the wooden sheds below, bathers fought the flames until the arrival ol the fire brigade.


Trove
1928 'SURF RESCUES', Evening News (Sydney, NSW : 1869 - 1931), 3 January, p. 5. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article121692197


Frankston and Somerville Standard
Victoria, 6 January 1928, page 8.


A VISIT TO SUMMERLAND

During the week it was our privilege to take a run out to "Summerland," the new model township that is in process of formation out at the nobby end of the Island, and we were surprised to see the amount of work that had been put in and the progress made in the way of laying out the roads and the planting of them with ornamented trees, while a golf house is in course of erection.
...
Just at the foot of the highland on which it is situated, lies Sullivan's Beach, into which the surf was breaking in a most enticing manner, and where some few gaily attired venturesome spirits were engaged in this fascinating sport, and where, recently, the
vice-regal party, Lord and Lady Somers, provided with surfing boards, enjoyed a similar pleasure.
Just beyond this little bay, a point just out, completing the half moon shape, while round it is Kitty Millars Bay, ..

Trove
1928 'A VISIT TO SUMMERLAND', Frankston and Somerville Standard (Vic. : 1921 - 1939), 6 January, p. 8. , viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74993614

The Telegraph
Brisbane,  9 January 1928, page 13.


Patrolling the Beaches
Life Saving Society Work

Heroic Rescue by Girl

On no beach in Queensland patrolled by members of the Royal Life Saving Society was a life lost by drowning during the Christmas and New Year holidays.
...
He also criticised, the "surf board maniacs," who seized upon a piece of board or grating and shoot the breakers where the crowd is thickest.
Quite a number of people had been injured by these nuisances.

Trove
1928 'Patrolling the Beaches', The Telegraph (Brisbane, Qld. : 1872 - 1947), 9 January, p. 13. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article179738686


Table Talk
Melbourne, 12 January 1928, page 61.


Flower Posies on Bathing Gowns
LATEST IDEA IN BEACH FASHIONS

...
"The gayest week-end. and the best weather, we have had so far this year," was the general verdict
 On Sunday the scene on the pier reminded one of the old-time brilliance, when all sorts of aquatic antics were indulged in by the young and beauteous mermaids and youths, who used to attract attention and draw the huge week-end gallery.
Norme Atkyns, one of the star performers of bygone days, was down on Sunday, and with the Agars, Gowans, Barretts and Derek Stogdale, gave some inimitable exhibitions of diving and trick swimming.

Surfing at the Back Beach

Surfing at the back beach is be coming very popular.
The Leslie Stuart girls, Nannette and Lavender, are graceful experts on the surf boards, and with their house party of pretty girls have almost forsaken the pier and its environments for the more exciting feat of riding the breakers on a surf-board.
Other addicts are the Norman Pleasances, Geoff Heath, Mr and Mrs R. Wertheim and Miss Mamie Felstead— who has been their guest for some time—and Mr and Mrs Ted Yencken.
These latter also visit Portsea proper and one of the prettiest pictures witnessed on Sunday morning was to see their pretty little four-year-old daughter, June, who did not appear to know the meaning of fear, diving from the pier to her mother.

Trove
1928 'Flower Posies on Bathing Gowns', Table Talk (Melbourne, Vic. : 1885 - 1939), 12 January, p. 61. , viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article146842679

The Kiama Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser
Saturday 21 January 1928, page 2.


KIAMA COUNCIL
...
In no uncertain terms Ald. Walker condemned the use of surf boards in the surf, instancing the case where a woman riding one hit another in the face and "knocked her out."
There's not one but dozens being used now, and they are a positive danger to other surfers, he said.
He moved that notices be put up on both sheds that surf boards are prohibited, which was seconded by Ald. Meredith and carried.

Trove
1928 'KIAMA COUNCIL.', The Kiama Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser (NSW : 1863 - 1947), 21 January, p. 2, viewed 15 August, 2013, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article104786290

Western Mail
Perth, 2 February 1928, page 7.
RIDING THE SURF AT GERALDTON :
The beach offers surfing equal to Sydney beaches and the broad bay forms a natural haven for yachts.


Riding the surf at Geraldton.
1. Boys on the beach.

An article concerning the beach appears in our sporting columns.


3. Geraldton back beach

2.Coming in on a roller.
Western Mail
Perth, 2 February 1928, page 31.


SHOOTING "GREEN UNS."
Surfing at Geraldton.
(By H.E.C.)


Surfing is á sport that bas grown considerably in popularity in Geraldton since the war.
The back beach, a panorama, had the reputation of being dangerous, the stigma going back to old convict days, when two men on the road gang were dragged under the reefs.
Since then, however, the water level has risen, with the result that we have a beautiful long level beach sheltered from the. southerly "busters" by sandhills, with shallow water out nearly three-quarters of a mile from the shore.
This beach stretches for miles in an even sweep.
In the centre of the bay, the breakers roll in evenly, majestically, sweeping up on the shore and sometimes attaining a speed of twenty miles per hour.
These breakers start nearly a mile out and move shorewards like a green wall till they strike the shallow water; then; they curve over and, in lines of heaped spray, rush shorewàrds.
Visitors from the Eastern States first drew attention to Geraldton's facilities for surfing and for boards.
The suggestion was quickly adopted, and the hack beach grew in popularity until last year the council were forced to widen the existing road and erect new shelter houses.
The word "forced" is used in its real sense, for it is a deplorable fact that the council have ever been apathetic towards the new beach.
In the summer of '24. swimmers from the G.A.S.C. approached them, and pointed out how the glorious swimming facilities of our front beach had gone down before the tread of commerce.
Á railway line stretched like a scar the length of the beach, and the clear water had become muddy and filthy.
They appealed to the council to try to regain our reputation as a holiday resort by fostering surfing, giving financial aid for life saving equipment and building decent sheds for both sexes.
The councillors, however, refused help.
Old-timers recalled the dangerous currents.
The delegation eloquently pleaded that no beach worthy of the name was entirely free from current, but the back beach was exceptionally safe- all to no avail.
We were then faced with the prospect of laying water, building a shed, and supplying a reel from our own lean pockets, the surfing club and patrols in that year were still in embryo.
Shark watches were posted on the bibs, which all command a wonderful view, and the one case of a swimmer in difficulties was remedied with-out lines.
The public continued to support the beach, in spite of bad car parking space and absence of bathing booths, and this year one local firm has sold hundreds of feet of timber for surf boards.
The boards used are lighter and easier to handle than the recognised Hawaiian pattern.
Built of seasoned light wood they are barely half an inch thick, the height of one's body, and some sixteen inches in width.
They are boat-shaped and the edges bladed.
This light pattern has been almost universally adopted this year, its big advantage being its weight-around seven pounds-which makes it easy to carry out to the waves.
To surf one walks out to the edge of the shallow water, shooting over the incoming breakers.
On reaching the region of the "green 'uns" one stands firmly on the bottom holding the board in front of the body.
As-the wave reaches the surfer he is caught and carried to its summit, when the wave breaks with the board on top of it.
The rush to the bottom is one of the big thrills of the sport.
Then the board commences to rush shorewards till it strands the surfer high and dry.
Skill in handling the breakers only comes with practice.
Old surfers are able to stand on their hands and other stunts, but these entail the use of a bigger board, which is heavier to handle.
Another diversion for the skilled surfer is to "body surf" without the aid of a board.
The average beginner can master the art in several days.
A peculiarity of all devotees of the surf is their strong wrists, which the guiding of the board develops.
Surfing is the most glorious sport of all.
The thrill of speed is combined, with the tang of the salt, crisp air, the blaze of the sun, and the pride of controlling an errant board in the big breakers.
Once a surfer, always a surfer.
The beach sees many new faces, but never loses an old one.
The venue again is very attractive wide beaches, sheltered sand, and long, white hills that command vistas of the country side, the town nestling in the opposite bay, the gleam of the distant river, the lazy smoke of a pasing liner, and the glorious air.
Geraldton's climate is the most wonderful in the whole length and breadth of Australia.
We have a summer that extends from September to March, and our alleged winter is never taken seriously.
We are mercifully free from sharks, and as yet have not had any serious case of near drowning.
The boards are all painted red- an unpopular colour with sharks.
The man-eating fish very seldom ventures in' our* surf, as he is unable to get out.
Were you to come up here the third person you met would honk a finger in your button-hole and say: "Lemme tell ya
about our SURF!"
Next year MC are going to build our clubhouse, with showers attached, and probably patrol the beach as a matter of form.
The existing patrol is done hy Sea Scouts, who have to save themselves ever so often to keep in practice.

Trove
1928 'No title', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 2 February, p. 7. (Regular supplement - Pictorial Section), viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article37662320
1928 'SHOOTING "GREEN UNS."', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 2 February, p. 31. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3766216

The Kiama Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser
Saturday 4 February 1928, page 3.

A Melting Meeting.
...
SURF BOARDS.
Mrs. Reid, Manning street, asked the prohibition of surf boards be modified, pointing out, unless the surf was very crowded there was no danger to other surfers in using the boards.
The Council did not feel disposed to alter the decision.

Trove
1928 'A Melting Meeting.', The Kiama Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser (NSW : 1863 - 1947), 4 February, p. 3, viewed 15 August, 2013, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article104785641

The Sydney Morning Herald
25 February 1928, page 13
.

SUN AND SURF.
The Call of the Beach.
(BY DY.)

All roads lead to the surf.
So we find when the car joins the stream of traffic northward bound for the wonderful beaches that fringe the coast from Manly to Broken Bay.
At last parking space is found in the ranks of cars that crowd the ocean parade of one of the further resorts.
The crowd is In holiday mood, and there is pleasure in watching the living, colourful pageant before our eyes.
A murmur In the crowd, and we turn to see an outward surf-boat planing down a rushing green hill of water, the spray flying from its bow.
A towering statuesque figure in the stern dips and strains on the great rudder oar; the craft turns, rides head-on through a crashing "dumper," and soon is tossing, a dazzling white shape, on the blue water further out.
As it surges from trough to crest, there is a glimpse of four bronzed Argonauts straining at the sculls, while the sunlight glances on the white helmet of the young Jason in tho prow and the flashing sweep of oars.
These are the men our beaches breed- Vikings of peace whose mission is to save.


SURF HEROES.

Out beyond tho breakers is a youngster lying full length on a huge surf-board, which he paddles slowly with his arms, heaving lazily on the swell.
He crouches, watching a following wave, and next instant is erect, with legs apart and arms outstretched- a picture of Neptune's charioteer driving his racing team from shield-shaped car.
Aloft in the watch tower is "Ossie," the team captain, yarning with a group of idolising youngsters.
With arms clasping sunburnt logs they learn how their hero and his mates showed the South Africans the noble art of surfing at Durban.

For among the senior clubmen of the coast are hundreds of A.I.F. men- great-limbed, massive fellows in their
prime, who not long ago put the fear of death into the Prussian Guards.
And the younger men, still with the grace of the schoolboy athlete, are sons and brothers of Anzacs.
Lithe and slender of limb, theirs are the depth of chest and breadth of shoulder that come of battling with a stubborn surf from childhood.
A delighted squeal from little "Skeeter" interrupts the talk.
Following his pointing finger we see "big brother Bluey" carving his way through a heavy sea to his "patient," who is treading water a hundred yards out.
Bluey (aged 15) has the belt, and is practising for the great day when he will join the life-saving club, the beach Asgard where dwell the kings and heroes of the surf.
Well, the day is getting hot and the water is inviting.
Answering its call, one is soon threading a way through the ranks of splashing bathers to where a dozen heads bob in a line far beyond the rest.
These are the vanguard, masters of every kind of roller that sends the greenhorn gasping to tho shallows.
The experts ignore a dozen seemingly identical breakers and seize unerringly on the coveted "shoot."


DUMPERS AND SHOOTS.

Beware of that tall billow with the concave face!
Its crest will curl and crash vertically, seizing the foolhardy surfer, to roll him unmercifully head over heels, dragged spread eagled hither and thither by a dozen seething cross-currents.
Such is the "dumper," foe of the unwary.
But mark how the cognoscenti deal with this monster.
Retire to where they break in a tumbling yard-high bank of seathlng foam, with the spindrift flying from their crests.

Now, break the charge of Neptune's cavalry; turn side-on to their onslaught; lunge and spring for their manes, every muscle braced for the shock.
Or, again, dive for the bottom, feel them crash on your feet as they thunder over with a noise like distant cannon. Then spring for air with the frothy backwash creaming on your face.
The dumpers cease for a time, followed by a series of "flats"- waves with the full face of a shoot, but whose lighter green betrays the hollow back which means lack of pace and body.
Suddenly there is an eager surge and the front-rankers are racing out to "get on to" a shoot.
Yes! There is no mistaking the dull green bulge of that big roller capped with the curl of foam which is the badge of speed.
The vanguard wheel as one man, kick off and lash the water with frantic strokes as the wave is on them.
The shoulders and upflung head surge forward, racing like the figurehead on some storm-driven galley.
The wave crashes and they are lost to view, but soon the broad back shows, head down, boring torpedo-like through the shallows. . . . Fifty yards Inshore a dripping figure rises among the wondering paddlers and struggles back for his next ride.


RESCUE.

Away to the left a bather Is caught in a channel, and heralds the fact with much splashing and struggling.
In a flash a man has plunged in, and is flogging his way through the choppy water with the saving belt round his chest.
At intervals on the shore are three reelmen standing like statues, calmly paying out the lifeline with hands raised over-head.
An upflung arm is the signal for them to bend to the task, hauling rhythmically hand over hand, with muscles starting under the double load.
After a long pull the couple are wading back to safety.
The rescuer grins, slaps his salvage on the back, and flings the belt at a comrade with a laughing word.
A fine boy this, yet typical of hundreds of young savers.
He is breathless, hut dashes the water from his eyes, and mounts the sloping beach with all the grace of the marching stride he has learned in sand and shallow water.
The poise of head, the swinging shoulders, and sway of hips are a delight to the eye, while the firm, rounded limbs move with effortless grace.
Truly a feast for our sculptors- a model all ready in living bronze.


HALCYON

After a swim, a smart run along tho sand is voted breathless work, so one sits for a space like the Lotus Eaters.

To watch the crisping ripples on the beach
And tender curving lines of creamy spray.


The sun pours down a flood ot streaming golden light like a benicon upon the sand.

Its' warm kiss glows on the skin still tingling with the cool salt drops; the heavy, spray-laden breeze trembles on the limbs like a caress, and the air is quivering in a mellow dream from the great blue arc of sky down to the living glow of sand.
Under half closed eyelids we are aware of the bright flash of colour- the flutter of a silken wrap, a gleam of gold on some girl's rounded arm; rainbow patchwork of sunshades and the flowing lines of sinewy limbs.
Beyond it all, the roll of surf and a haze of distant headlands; above it all, that clean, blue vastness- the miracle of an Australian sky.
Why envy the gods of Homer, debauched in the marble palaces of Olympus, swilling nectar from gold and ivory vessels?
What need of nectar when the mouth rejoices in that cold, salt freshness which only the surf can give?
The gods of Tennyson's poem lived to the sound of

Clanging fights and flaming towns
And sinking ships mid praying hands.

But what have we? The sea's dull soothing roar and the happy shouts of children.
Basking in the rich sunlight we know perfect freedom and relaxation in every fibre- the happy state when repose of son! and limb recalls to life the shy little gleams of beauty lost in the scramble ot daily life, banished by the magic breath of sun, sea, and air, cares seem very far away.


Trove
1928 'SUN AND SURF.', The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), 25 February, p. 13. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article16444810


Observer
Adelaide,  3 March 1828, page 37.


SURFING AT PETREL COVE

Surfing has become a popular pastime at Petrel Cove (near the Bluff, Encounter Bay).
These snapshots show:-
1. Spectators on the beach, with motor cars in the extreme left of the "saddle" to the Bluff.


2. Bathers with surf boards.



3. In the surf.

Photo. Hines






Trove
1928 'SURFING AT PETREL COVE.', Observer (Adelaide, SA : 1905 - 1931), 3 March, p. 37. , viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article165638426

Mirror
Perth, 3 March 1928, page 15.


WHEN THE FARMER COMES TO TOWN

It takes him a while before he can perform aquatic tricks like this.
A champion surf board rider conies in on his head.











Trove

1928 'WHEN THE FARMER COMES TO TOWN', Mirror (Perth, WA : 1921 - 1956), 3 March, p. 15. , viewed 12 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article76410549



The West Australian
Perth, 17 March 1928, page 3.


SURFING AT BUNBURY

Carried on the wave.
The recent surf carnival at Bunbury saw some spirited expositions of the use of surf-boards.
Trove
1928 'SURFING AT BUNBURY.',
The West Australian (Perth, WA : 1879 - 1954), 17 March, p. 3. (PICTORIAL SECTION), viewed 12 Apr 2016,



http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article32098345

The Daily Mail
London, Wednesday 12 September 1928, page ?.


EFFORT TO POPULARISE NEW SEW SEASIDE SPORT.

An effort is to be made to popularise surf-board riding, described as the most thrilling sport in the world, at English seaside resorts.

Mr. Justin C. McAlister, an electrical engineer of Sydney, New South Wales, the amateur surf-riding, champion of Australia, who has just arrived in England after attending the Olympic games in Amsterdam with the Australian team, said to a reporter:
At Manly Beach, Sydney, there are 20,000 persons who bathe everyday, and at this spot and at other favourite resorts there are surf life-saving clubs composed entirely of amateurs.
At the end of each season we have our championship contests, the most important being the surf riding.
Surfboard-riding is the most thrilling sport that I know of, and I would like to see it generally introduced into England.
A surf-board is about nine feet in length and about two feet wide, tapering to a blunt end.
You paddle the board out about 250 yards, and, if skilled, pick your wave.
You propel yourself forward with your arms, and when you feel the swell carrying you towards the shore your test comes.
The secret consists of keeping your balance.
If your are experienced you find the right balancing point, and it is possible to stand on your head.
If you get on the crest of the wave you rush forward at a speed of at least of at least 25 miles an hour.
Mr. McAlister is searching for a suitable beach to make this sport popular.
At the moment he has only has in mind Newquay, Cornwall.

Notes.
This article was kindly forwarded by Jeremy Oxenden, via Joe Tabler's Surfblub,18 Aug 2010.
Museum of British Surfing
http://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/
Many thanks to Jeremy.

Andrew 'Boy' Charlton was one of Australia's most succesful competitive swimmers and a regular surf shooter at Manly Beach.
On his visit to Europe in 1928 to compete in the Amsterdam Olympic Games, he was accompanied by his trainer and fellow Manly surfer, Harry Hay.
Hay was one of several local surfers instructed in surfboard riding by Duke Kahanamoku during his Austalian tour in 1914-1915, subsequently became a jounalist and wrote one of the earliest surfing books, Swimming and Surfing in 1931.

The 1500 metre Olympic champion at the 1924 Paris games, in 1928 Charlton came second in the 1500 metres and second in the 400 metres.
Other swimming competitors included the American team members Johnny Weismuller and Buster Crabbe, both competed with Kahanamoku and both later played the role of Tarzan in Hollywood films.

On the day of 400 metre semi-finals:

"Among the crowd that day was a group of Charlton supporters who had come from the Manly Surf Club, including two late arrivals, Sandy (sic) McAlister and Tommy Farrell.
They had saved every penny to travel tourist class on the liner Jervis Bay with just one purpose: to see their close friend win the 1500 metres.
When a stowaway caused the Jervis Bay to be delayed they transferred to another vessel, but further problems occurred in London and they missed the race.
Having gone forty-eight hours without sleep they arrived at the pool while Charlton's 400 metres heat was being swum.
McAlister, a champion board rider, talked his way on to the starting boards and saw the rest of the races from a prime position."

- Fenton: They Called Him Boy (2006) page 189.

Following the Olymic competition, McAlister travelled to England, apparently with a surfboard, and was
interviewed by the Daily Mail about his intention to surf on the beaches of Cornwall.

McAlister's comment, "At Manly Beach, Sydney, there are 20,000 persons who bathe everyday" is likely an exaggeration.
Similarly, "At the end of each season we have our championship contests, the most important being the surf riding", possibly overstates the status of boardriding at the surf life saving carnivals of the period.
The most popular and dramatic events were probably the surf boat races.

Western Mail
Perth, WA, Thursday 25 October 1928, page 4.


New Season's Bathers and Belles
 
 


(8) Daredevil Daisy : The popular Australian sport of riding the waves on a surf-board has just been introduced at Channel Islands resorts. 
This fair surf-rider is apparently not superstitious.



Trove
1928 'New Season's BATHERS with BELLES', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 25 October, p. 4. (The Western Mail), viewed 12 Apr 2016,
 http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article38374564


The Sun
Sydney, 11 November 1928, page 25.

Riding The Board on a Racing Wave- Here's How.

By Frank Foran,

Bondi's Star Board Shooter
Varroosh-
UmLT down on the breast of a foaming comber.
If horse racing is the sport of kings, nobody can convince me that board-shooting in the sizzling surf isn't a thrill for the gods.
Spring on the board, away you go.
A hundred miles an hour- it seems like
it, anyhow.
Green vales of water tearing past you.
Nobody in front.
You're all out; let her go- away
on a spray-stinging, pulse-quickening career to a distant strip of golden sand.
But watch her direction, keep your head.
Otherwise, it would be a very sensible Idea if you called out the local ambulance corps - to be prepared for any sensational emergency - during your exhilarating stunts.
" That's the whole idea.
Don't, do any board-shooting until you have made sure you are not going to be reckless, and until you have practised and know all there is to be known about the eight feet of timber beneath you.
I learned that lesson, painfully, in the season of 1914-1915.
It was the first time I had ever seen
board-shooting.
With that sturdy, resolute, fiery-headed Eastern Suburbs League forward, "Bluey" Watkins, I watched Duke Paoa Kahanamoku in action at Dee Why.
He was superbly skilful, and I studied his methods, but there must have been something amiss in the manner in which I sized him up, and my analysis of his tricks

At any rate, "Bluey" and I soon obtained boards, and after a little imitation of the adroitness of the Duke, "Bluey" was bluer than ever with bruises, and I ached from the tip of my nose to the extremities of my toes.
Naturally, we realised we were doing it the wrong way, so we tried different tactics, and gradually improved.
Somebody sent a surf board from Honolulu to the Surf Life-saving Association's president (Mr. Patterson sic) in 1908, and a number of our chaps tried their hand at it, with some sort of success; but it was really Duke Kahanamoku who showed
Sydney the true art, and he ought to be awarded a medal for it.
 " New excitement was added to surflng.
It
made body-shooting like like dog-
paddling."

How do I do it?
How can you do it?
Get a board first.
I think mine is the best on the coast.
That's
why I have drilled a hole in it, so that I can chain it up, and prevent anyone who might nc appreciate it from using my cherished old c
It is a redwood board, eight feet long, and two feet wide, and three inches thick at the centre.
Naturally, it tapers— a board must taper.
If it
doesn't it will scarcely have a shoot in it.
It is
20 inches wide at the back, and two inches thick.
Its thickness forward, in the neighborhood of the nose, is one inch.
On the rear portion of it I
screwed a wooden "cleat," a batten, just to avoid splitting.
The sides have a thickness of two inches and a half.
Underneath, it is not flat, but gently curved.
The first board I made was unsuitable, but I tried again, and the next satisfied my desires.
The board I now possess is the same old veteran I turned out years ago.
I have fashioned dozens of boards, and the only tools I ever required were a plane and a saw.
Before the board is allowed near the water, give it two coats of gold size and one coat of varnish.
Sandpaper the board and renew its protective coats every season!
This will save it from the ruinous effects of sun and water.
Always keep it under a under roof out of the weather, or it will decay before you have had fair use out of it.
The board I have described is excellent for beginners.
 They will find that it possesses better balance than any other they are likely to experiment with, and consequently they are not likely to experience so many calamities in their endeavors to achieve perfection.
 It is not such a simple thing to slip off this board, which will be found easy to master, particularly by women.
Now you have your board.
Then for the surf—
Don't go out too far, but practise first in the shallows.
Stand at the rear of the board, looking sideways, and wait until a wave has broken.
Then spring on your board, and go with it.
 But be careful, there is danger here; for if you lie too high, you will slide over, the top, and probably bash your head on the sandy floor of the bay.
It is just as Important not to lie too far back, because the front will have a tendency to cant up and there is then the possibility of your getting dumped, ;the board lurching forward, leaping; back,non and giving you a hard, lusty blow, which may dissuade you forever from attempting to become an expert board shooter.
Try hard and you'll succeed— that is, if you have board-shooting in you, and you possess that little essential knack which makes board-shooting eventually simple.
Strike a balance, and use your common-sense, for it is all a matter of individual judgment.
That is all I can Impress upon you in that direction.
Presuming that you have now gained confidence, leap on to the board and demonstrate that you own it, and that it will do all that you bid it to do.
Spread your hands forward, and grasp the sides near the nose.
If you find that your board is dipping, slide back a little, and you'll balance her up again, but if it shows that it is determined to dip, and dip deeply, slide right off the board-over the front, or you'll see all the stars there are in the sport.
 If it betrays a tendency to dip down at the back, move up a little forward, and then the board will be even once more.
Do not on any account overlook this, that it is inadvisable to commence board-shooting until you have become a good body-shooter.
There are some surfers, : however, who will never become board shooters. at all.
It is often just pure luck
If the board is not going as any normal, well-behaved board should go, and you feel that there is going to be a crash, don't on any account go over the side.
It's dangerous.
When you. think that you can easy a shoot on a big wave without any risk of serious injury, paddle out in a calm channel, because it is much easier to get out there than to force yourself and your board against the incoming waves
Recline on the board until the wave is just about to break, and then paddle furiously with it.
When your board is going, it is a good plan to stand up immediately, but, to get right down again tp the rudiments of this thrilling pastime, don't do anything out of the ordinary until you are. able, with ease, to shoot in on the board lying down.
While on your board, taking a wave, you should occupy about 3 feet of the timber, leaving 6ft. bare, and at least 2ft. 6in. of this forward should be standing starkly out of the water like a shark fin
If you don't follow this little hint, there is a likelihood of the nose dipping, and you will have lost a shoot, and probably the board, too, for the moment.
The safest plan is never to let the board go.
Hang on like grim death out on the deep water, even if your board is dipping, and wherever it goes, maintain your grasp, and go with it.
When a wave is breaking, and the board gets completely out of control, it will leap about like something demented, if released, and then there is a constant danger of grave injury and possibly sudden death, should it strike you.
Patience, and the assimilation of helpful hints, will make you a board-shooter.
Nothing else.
It
took me a fortnight before I could paddle properly down on the waves, and it was another fortnight before I could manage to stand without, taking erratic plunges everywhere into the surf.
Even then I practised all day on Saturdays and Sundays remaining in the surf for -hours
Make your board a study, and if you expect that it Is going to leap away from under your feet, thrust your left foot a little forward, and, with the added weight, the board will, be in control again
I stand 18 inches from the back of. the board as soon as I feel she is going, and then, when she is racing like a live thing, I move ahead about 14 additional inches, with the left foot extended towards the nose.
When the board is travelling in the wrong direction, dip the opposite hand in the water, paddle away, and you'll bring her back to her right course again.

There is a fallacy-  it is not difficult or so very dangerous to shoot dumpers, provided always, of course, you know how.
This is the way I do it.
Turn the board until it is parallel with the wave which you have decided to catch, then lift the nose, and suddenly turn it straight again.
But just a confidential, earnest note of warning.
If you are going to bo -a board-shooter, keep away from the crowd.
Disregard this, and it is inevitable that somebody will get hurt.
Then the authorities will interfere, and board-shooting will probably become one of the lost arts.

Trove
1928 'Riding The Board on a Racing Wave-- Here's How', The Sun (Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), 11 November, p. 25. , viewed 06 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article223246421

The West Australian
Perth,  15 November 1928, page 14.
GERALDTON WEEK.

The various sports to be conducted during Geraldton Week, from January 28 to February 2- will include the following:-
...
 surfing demonstrations, including exhibitions of surf board riding;

Trove
1928 'GERALDTON WEEK.', The West Australian (Perth, WA : 1879 - 1954), 15 November, p. 14. , viewed 12 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article32237715


The Brisbane Courier
Saturday 22 December 1928
, page 24.


2BL, SYDNEY.

(Wavelength, 353metres.) 
NIGHT session.- 8: The Manly Municipal Military Band; the King's Cross Theatre Orchestra: Charles Lawrence, revue broadcast from the surf on Manly Beach; talk by the Mayor of Manly;- Dorrie Ward, soprano; W. E. Lewis, baritone; novelty nonsense at the piano by Charles Lawrence; "History of Surf Bathing." by Basil Kirke; Amy Astinga, contralto: community singing; description of beach sports; carols.

Close down, midnight.

Trove
1928 '2BL, SYDNEY.', The Brisbane Courier (Qld. : 1864 - 1933), 22 December, p. 24, viewed 2 September, 2013,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article21340564


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Geoff Cater (1997-2016) : Newspapers, 1928.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1928_Newspapers.html