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The Sydney Morning Herald
3 January 1928, page 9.
SURF THRILLS.
NEWPORT
CARNIVAL.
Boats
Disabled.
Heavy
seas, the aftermath of Sunday afternoon's
southerly gale, made the surf exceedingly
treacherous for the surf boat races at the Newport
surf carnival yesterday afternoon.
A number of the competing boats were swamped, and several
competitors received slight Injuries.
A deep, wide channel existed along the beach, and huge
waves bumped heavily on tho sandbank on the seaward side
of the
channel.
Many of the swimmers had hard tussles against the
breakers, and in the rescue event some of the beltmen
experienced difficulty in reaching their "patients."
The heavy sea was a fine test for the competitors, who
displayed remarkable endurance.
BOAT RACE.
The real
thrills of the carnival were provided by tho surf boat
race.
The event was decided in two heats and a final, and each
contest was marked by exciting incidents.
Crews from the Manly, Dee Why, North Steyne and North
Narrabeen Clubs competed in the first boat, and the four
boats were buffeted by the big seas from the moment they
touched the water.
The North Steyne boat, In charge of H. C. Evans, was
struck by a huge wave and the captain had difficulty In
retaining hold of the "sweep."
Soon after leaving the beach the Dee Why boat was swamped,
and one of the crew, G. Opperman, vice-captain of the
club, received a slight injury.
Either the boat, or one of the oars, hit him, and he had
to be brought ashore and treated by other competitors.
The Manly boat, the Sawfish, was first round the buoy, and
when "shooting" towards the beach on a breaker the
captain, R. Ford, was thrown out of the boat, but with
some difficulty was able to got aboard again.
In the second heat, Collaroy, Newport, and Freshwater were
the competitors.
Freshwater got away nicely, but the Collaroy and Newport
boats were soon in trouble.
Both the craft became waterlogged and were brought back to
the beach.
The water was emptied out of the boats, which then resumed
the race.
The Collaroy boat was well handled by the captain, W.
Forbes, and although the captain of the Newport boat,
Gordon Robertson, made a great effort to get through the
seas, the craft was again swamped, and had to be towed
ashore with a line.
THREE BOATS DISABLED.
In the final of the event the "Sawfish" had matters all
its own way.
There were four competitors- Manly, Freshwater, Collaroy,
and North Steyne.
First the Freshwater boat was swamped, and a moment later
the Collaroy boat filled with water.
Both the latter boats returned to the beach, and the
Collaroy crew, having broken an oar, retired from the
race.
While crossing the bank beyond the channel the North
Steyne boat, in attempting to "ride" a huge wave, turned
over with the crew beneath It.
The members of the team extricated themselves and brought
their boat ashore.
Just as the "Sawfish" had finished the race, the North
Steyne boat was launched again, and rowed the course.
In the meantime the Freshwater boat had made a second
attempt to get out, but again returned to the beach.
While excitement was running high, and the crews
were working at high pressure to get their boats away, a
competitor gave a fine display of surf-board shooting,
standing on the board, and also standing on his head on
the board while it rode the breakers to the beach.
TANGLED IN LIFELINES.
In the first heat of the alarm reel race, Newport's
beltman, R. Rolfe, had a thrilling experience.
The lines of the other competing teams got tangled round
his body and dragged him under the water.
He was brought ashore, suffering the effects of the
immersion, but soon recovered.
Several other minor mishaps happened during the afternoon,
but none of them was of a serious nature.
SMART RESCUES AT MANLY.
A strong surf which was running on Manly Beach yesterday
morning increased the responsibilities of the Iife-savers.
A number of people got into difficulties.
Between 11 and 12 o'clock 10 surfers had to be brought to
safety, but owing to the vigilance of the surf club
officials, none got very far beyond the danger line.
The rescues of two persons who had been carried out a
considerable distance, which were effected by life-saver
L. McIntosh by
means of a surf board, were regarded as being smart and
skilful.
The second rescue was particularly difficult and the
life-saver received a great ovation when he returned to
the beach.
On other beaches several people had to be assisted.
Trove
1928 'SURF THRILLS.', The Sydney Morning
Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), 3 January, p. 9. , viewed 11 Apr
2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article16431285
Evening
News
Sydney, Tuesday, 3 January 1928, page 5.
SURF RESCUES IN
HEAVY SEA
BATHERS FIGHT FIRE
HEAVY seas were
running on all beaches yesterday, which were attended by
tremendous crowds.
Numbers of surfers got into difficulties, and lifesavers
had a busy day.
There was a unique incident at Manly,
where a member of the local life saving club, McAlister,
using a surf board, effected a fine rescue.
Olare and Ryan also figured in surf board rescues.
George Pike, lifesaver, received a nasty gash, when be went
to the rescue of a man.
His chin came in contact with the patient's head.
Four stitches were necessary.
L. Gorman and R. Phillips also put in good work.
One man, in the excitement, donned a belt and went to the
rescue of a lifesaver who was not in any difficulty.
When the 'patient' refused help he tried to force a rescue.
Eventually the man had to be hauled in.
There were several rescues at Palm Beach in which Adrian
Curlewis, son of Mr. Justice Curlewis and captain of the
club, and Braddick figured.
OUT OF FRYING PAN
Bathers who went to Bronte to escape the heat were called
upon to light a fire.
Early in the afternoon thick scrub above the baths caught
alight, and as It seemed that a blazing mass would fall on
the wooden sheds below, bathers fought the flames until the
arrival ol the fire brigade.
Trove
1928 'SURF RESCUES', Evening News (Sydney,
NSW : 1869 - 1931), 3 January, p. 5. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article121692197
Frankston and Somerville Standard
Victoria, 6 January 1928, page 8.
A VISIT TO SUMMERLAND
During the week it was our privilege to take a run out
to "Summerland," the new model township that is in
process of formation out at the nobby end of the
Island, and we were surprised to see the amount of
work that had been put in and the progress made in the
way of laying out the roads and the planting of them
with ornamented trees, while a golf house is in course
of erection.
...
Just at the foot of the highland on which
it is situated, lies Sullivan's Beach, into which the surf
was breaking in a most enticing manner, and where some few
gaily attired venturesome spirits were engaged in this
fascinating sport, and where, recently, the
vice-regal party, Lord and Lady Somers, provided with
surfing boards, enjoyed a similar pleasure.
Just beyond this little bay, a point just out, completing
the half moon shape, while round it is Kitty Millars Bay,
..
Trove
1928 'A VISIT TO SUMMERLAND', Frankston and
Somerville Standard (Vic. : 1921 - 1939), 6 January, p. 8. ,
viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article74993614
The
Telegraph
Brisbane, 9 January 1928, page 13.
Patrolling the Beaches
Life
Saving Society Work
Heroic
Rescue by Girl
On no
beach in Queensland patrolled by members of the Royal Life
Saving Society was a life lost by drowning during the
Christmas and New Year holidays.
...
He also criticised, the "surf board maniacs," who seized
upon a piece of board or grating and shoot the breakers
where the crowd is thickest.
Quite a number of people had been injured by these
nuisances.
Trove
1928 'Patrolling the Beaches', The Telegraph
(Brisbane, Qld. : 1872 - 1947), 9 January, p. 13. , viewed
11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article179738686
Table Talk
Melbourne, 12 January 1928, page 61.
Flower Posies on Bathing Gowns
LATEST
IDEA IN BEACH FASHIONS
...
"The gayest week-end. and the best
weather, we have had so far this year," was the general
verdict
On Sunday the scene on the pier reminded one of the
old-time brilliance, when all sorts of aquatic antics were
indulged in by the young and beauteous mermaids and
youths, who used to attract attention and draw the huge
week-end gallery.
Norme Atkyns, one of the star performers of bygone days,
was down on Sunday, and with the Agars, Gowans, Barretts
and Derek Stogdale, gave some inimitable exhibitions of
diving and trick swimming.
Surfing at the Back Beach
Surfing at the back beach is be coming very popular.
The Leslie Stuart girls, Nannette and Lavender, are
graceful experts on the surf boards, and with their house
party of pretty girls have almost forsaken the pier and
its environments for the more exciting feat of riding the
breakers on a surf-board.
Other addicts are the Norman Pleasances, Geoff Heath, Mr
and Mrs R. Wertheim and Miss Mamie Felstead— who has been
their guest for some time—and Mr and Mrs Ted Yencken.
These latter also visit Portsea proper and one of the
prettiest pictures witnessed on Sunday morning was to see
their pretty little four-year-old daughter, June, who did
not appear to know the meaning of fear, diving from the
pier to her mother.
Trove
1928 'Flower Posies on Bathing Gowns', Table
Talk (Melbourne, Vic. : 1885 - 1939), 12 January, p. 61. ,
viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article146842679
The
Kiama Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser
Saturday 21 January 1928, page 2.
KIAMA COUNCIL
...
In
no uncertain terms Ald. Walker condemned the use of surf boards in the surf,
instancing the case where a woman riding one hit another in the face and "knocked her out."
There's not one but
dozens being used now, and they are a positive danger to other surfers, he said.
He
moved that notices be put up on both sheds that surf boards are prohibited, which was seconded by
Ald.
Meredith and carried.
Trove
1928 'KIAMA COUNCIL.', The Kiama Independent,
and Shoalhaven Advertiser (NSW : 1863 - 1947), 21
January, p. 2, viewed 15 August, 2013,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article104786290
Western Mail
Perth, 2 February 1928, page 7.
RIDING THE
SURF AT GERALDTON :
The beach
offers surfing equal to Sydney beaches and the
broad bay forms a natural haven for yachts.
Riding the surf at Geraldton.
1. Boys on the beach.
An article concerning the beach appears in our
sporting columns.
|
3. Geraldton back beach
2.Coming in on a roller.
|
Western
Mail
Perth, 2 February 1928, page 31.
SHOOTING
"GREEN UNS."
Surfing at Geraldton.
(By H.E.C.)
Surfing is á sport that bas grown considerably in popularity
in Geraldton since the war.
The back beach, a panorama, had the reputation of being
dangerous, the stigma going back to old convict days, when two
men on the road gang were dragged under the reefs.
Since then, however, the water level has risen, with the
result that we have a beautiful long level beach sheltered
from the. southerly "busters" by sandhills, with shallow water
out nearly three-quarters of a mile from the shore.
This beach stretches for miles in an even sweep.
In the centre of the bay, the breakers roll in evenly,
majestically, sweeping up on the shore and sometimes attaining
a speed of twenty miles per hour.
These breakers start nearly a mile out and move shorewards
like a green wall till they strike the shallow water; then;
they curve over and, in lines of heaped spray, rush
shorewàrds.
Visitors from the Eastern States first drew attention to
Geraldton's facilities for surfing and for boards.
The suggestion was quickly adopted, and the hack beach grew in
popularity until last year the council were forced to widen
the existing road and erect new shelter houses.
The word "forced" is used in its real sense, for it is a
deplorable fact that the council have ever been apathetic
towards the new beach.
In the summer of '24. swimmers from the G.A.S.C. approached
them, and pointed out how the glorious swimming facilities of
our front beach had gone down before the tread of commerce.
Á railway line stretched like a scar the length of the beach,
and the clear water had become muddy and filthy.
They appealed to the council to try to regain our reputation
as a holiday resort by fostering surfing, giving financial aid
for life saving equipment and building decent sheds for both
sexes.
The councillors, however, refused help.
Old-timers recalled the dangerous currents.
The delegation eloquently pleaded that no beach worthy of the
name was entirely free from current, but the back beach was
exceptionally safe- all to no avail.
We were then faced with the prospect of laying water, building
a shed, and supplying a reel from our own lean pockets, the
surfing club and patrols in that year were still in embryo.
Shark watches were posted on the bibs, which all command a
wonderful view, and the one case of a swimmer in difficulties
was remedied with-out lines.
The public continued to support the beach, in spite of bad car
parking space and absence of bathing booths, and this year one
local firm has sold hundreds of feet of timber for surf
boards.
The boards used are lighter and easier to handle than the
recognised Hawaiian pattern.
Built of seasoned light wood they are barely half an inch
thick, the height of one's body, and some sixteen inches in
width.
They are boat-shaped and the edges bladed.
This light pattern has been almost universally adopted this
year, its big advantage being its weight-around seven
pounds-which makes it easy to carry out to the waves.
To surf one walks out to the edge of the shallow water,
shooting over the incoming breakers.
On reaching the region of the "green 'uns" one stands firmly
on the bottom holding the board in front of the body.
As-the wave reaches the surfer he is caught and carried to its
summit, when the wave breaks with the board on top of it.
The rush to the bottom is one of the big thrills of the sport.
Then the board commences to rush shorewards till it strands
the surfer high and dry.
Skill in handling the breakers only comes with practice.
Old surfers are able to stand on their hands and other stunts,
but these entail the use of a bigger board, which is heavier
to handle.
Another diversion for the skilled surfer is to "body surf"
without the aid of a board.
The average beginner can master the art in several days.
A peculiarity of all devotees of the surf is their strong
wrists, which the guiding of the board develops.
Surfing is the most glorious sport of all.
The thrill of speed is combined, with the tang of the salt,
crisp air, the blaze of the sun, and the pride of controlling
an errant board in the big breakers.
Once a surfer, always a surfer.
The beach sees many new faces, but never loses an old one.
The venue again is very attractive wide beaches, sheltered
sand, and long, white hills that command vistas of the country
side, the town nestling in the opposite bay, the gleam of the
distant river, the lazy smoke of a pasing liner, and the
glorious air.
Geraldton's climate is the most wonderful in the whole length
and breadth of Australia.
We have a summer that extends from September to March, and our
alleged winter is never taken seriously.
We are mercifully free from sharks, and as yet have not had
any serious case of near drowning.
The boards are all painted red- an unpopular colour with
sharks.
The man-eating fish very seldom ventures in' our* surf, as he
is unable to get out.
Were you to come up here the third person you met would honk a
finger in your button-hole and say: "Lemme tell ya
about our SURF!"
Next year MC are going to build our clubhouse, with showers
attached, and probably patrol the beach as a matter of form.
The existing patrol is done hy Sea Scouts, who have to save
themselves ever so often to keep in practice.
Trove
1928 'No title', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885 - 1954), 2
February, p. 7. (Regular supplement - Pictorial Section), viewed
11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article37662320
1928 'SHOOTING "GREEN UNS."', Western Mail (Perth, WA : 1885
- 1954), 2 February, p. 31. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article3766216
The
Kiama Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser
Saturday 4 February 1928, page 3.
A Melting
Meeting.
...
SURF BOARDS.
Mrs.
Reid, Manning street, asked the prohibition of surf
boards be modified, pointing out, unless the surf was very crowded there was no danger to
other surfers in using the boards.
The
Council did not feel disposed to alter the decision.
Trove
1928 'A Melting Meeting.', The Kiama
Independent, and Shoalhaven Advertiser (NSW : 1863 -
1947), 4 February, p. 3, viewed 15 August, 2013, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article104785641
The Sydney Morning Herald
25 February 1928, page 13.
SUN AND SURF.
The Call of the Beach.
(BY DY.)
All roads lead to the surf.
So we find when the car joins the stream of traffic
northward bound for the wonderful beaches that fringe
the coast from Manly to Broken Bay.
At last parking space is found in the ranks of cars that
crowd the ocean parade of one of the further resorts.
The crowd is In holiday mood, and there is pleasure in
watching the living, colourful pageant before our eyes.
A murmur In the crowd, and we turn to see an outward
surf-boat planing down a rushing green hill of water,
the spray flying from its bow.
A towering statuesque figure in the stern dips and
strains on the great rudder oar; the craft turns, rides
head-on through a crashing "dumper," and soon is
tossing, a dazzling white shape, on the blue water
further out.
As it surges from trough to crest, there is a glimpse of
four bronzed Argonauts straining at the sculls, while
the sunlight glances on the white helmet of the young
Jason in tho prow and the flashing sweep of oars.
These are the men our beaches breed- Vikings of peace
whose mission is to save.
SURF
HEROES.
Out beyond tho breakers is a youngster lying full length
on a huge surf-board, which he paddles slowly with his
arms, heaving lazily on the swell.
He crouches, watching a following wave, and next instant
is erect, with legs apart and arms outstretched- a
picture of Neptune's charioteer driving his racing team
from shield-shaped car.
Aloft in the watch tower is "Ossie," the team captain,
yarning with a group of idolising youngsters.
With arms clasping sunburnt logs they learn how their
hero and his mates showed the South Africans the noble
art of surfing at Durban.
For among the senior clubmen of the coast are
hundreds of A.I.F. men- great-limbed, massive fellows in
their
prime, who not long ago put the fear of death into the
Prussian Guards.
And the younger men, still with the grace of the
schoolboy athlete, are sons and brothers of Anzacs.
Lithe and slender of limb, theirs are the depth of chest
and breadth of shoulder that come of battling with a
stubborn surf from childhood.
A delighted squeal from little "Skeeter" interrupts the
talk.
Following his pointing finger we see "big brother Bluey"
carving his way through a heavy sea to his "patient,"
who is treading water a hundred yards out.
Bluey (aged 15) has the belt, and is practising for the
great day when he will join the life-saving club, the
beach Asgard where dwell the kings and heroes of the
surf.
Well, the day is getting hot and the water is inviting.
Answering its call, one is soon threading a way through
the ranks of splashing bathers to where a dozen heads
bob in a line far beyond the rest.
These are the vanguard, masters of every kind of roller
that sends the greenhorn gasping to tho shallows.
The experts ignore a dozen seemingly identical breakers
and seize unerringly on the coveted "shoot."
DUMPERS AND
SHOOTS.
Beware of that tall billow with the concave face!
Its crest will curl and crash vertically, seizing the
foolhardy surfer, to roll him unmercifully head over
heels, dragged spread eagled hither and thither by a
dozen seething cross-currents.
Such is the "dumper," foe of the unwary.
But mark how the cognoscenti deal with this monster.
Retire to where they break in a tumbling yard-high bank
of seathlng foam, with the spindrift flying from their
crests.
Now, break the charge of Neptune's cavalry; turn
side-on to their onslaught; lunge and spring for their
manes, every muscle braced for the shock.
Or, again, dive for the bottom, feel them crash on your
feet as they thunder over with a noise like distant
cannon. Then spring for air with the frothy backwash
creaming on your face.
The dumpers cease for a time, followed by a series of
"flats"- waves with the full face of a shoot, but whose
lighter green betrays the hollow back which means lack
of pace and body.
Suddenly there is an eager surge and the front-rankers
are racing out to "get on to" a shoot.
Yes! There is no mistaking the dull green bulge of that
big roller capped with the curl of foam which is the
badge of speed.
The vanguard wheel as one man, kick off and lash the
water with frantic strokes as the wave is on them.
The shoulders and upflung head surge forward, racing
like the figurehead on some storm-driven galley.
The wave crashes and they are lost to view, but soon the
broad back shows, head down, boring torpedo-like through
the shallows. . . . Fifty yards Inshore a dripping
figure rises among the wondering paddlers and struggles
back for his next ride.
RESCUE.
Away to the left a bather Is caught in a channel, and
heralds the fact with much splashing and struggling.
In a flash a man has plunged in, and is flogging his way
through the choppy water with the saving belt round his
chest.
At intervals on the shore are three reelmen standing
like statues, calmly paying out the lifeline with hands
raised over-head.
An upflung arm is the signal for them to bend to the
task, hauling rhythmically hand over hand, with muscles
starting under the double load.
After a long pull the couple are wading back to safety.
The rescuer grins, slaps his salvage on the back, and
flings the belt at a comrade with a laughing word.
A fine boy this, yet typical of hundreds of young
savers.
He is breathless, hut dashes the water from his eyes,
and mounts the sloping beach with all the grace of the
marching stride he has learned in sand and shallow
water.
The poise of head, the swinging shoulders, and sway of
hips are a delight to the eye, while the firm, rounded
limbs move with effortless grace.
Truly a feast for our sculptors- a model all ready in
living bronze.
HALCYON
After a swim, a smart run along tho sand is voted
breathless work, so one sits for a space like the Lotus
Eaters.
To
watch the crisping ripples on the beach
And tender curving lines of creamy spray.
The sun pours down a flood ot streaming golden light
like a benicon upon the sand.
Its' warm kiss glows on the skin
still tingling with the cool salt drops; the heavy,
spray-laden breeze trembles on the limbs like a caress,
and the air is quivering in a mellow dream from the
great blue arc of sky down to the living glow of sand.
Under half closed eyelids we are aware of the bright
flash of colour- the flutter of a silken wrap, a gleam
of gold on some girl's rounded arm; rainbow patchwork of
sunshades and the flowing lines of sinewy limbs.
Beyond it all, the roll of surf and a haze of distant
headlands; above it all, that clean, blue vastness- the
miracle of an Australian sky.
Why envy the gods of Homer, debauched in the marble
palaces of Olympus, swilling nectar from gold and ivory
vessels?
What need of nectar when the mouth rejoices in that
cold, salt freshness which only the surf can give?
The gods of Tennyson's poem lived to the sound of
Clanging
fights and flaming towns
And sinking ships mid praying
hands.
But what have we? The sea's dull soothing roar and the
happy shouts of children.
Basking in the rich sunlight we know perfect freedom and
relaxation in every fibre- the happy state when repose
of son! and limb recalls to life the shy little gleams
of beauty lost in the scramble ot daily life, banished
by the magic breath of sun, sea, and air, cares seem
very far away.
Trove
1928 'SUN AND
SURF.', The Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954), 25
February, p. 13. , viewed 11 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article16444810
Observer
Adelaide, 3 March 1828, page 37.
SURFING AT PETREL
COVE
Surfing has
become a popular pastime at Petrel Cove (near the Bluff,
Encounter Bay).
These snapshots show:-
1. Spectators on the beach, with motor cars in the
extreme left of the "saddle" to the Bluff.
2. Bathers with
surf boards.
|
|
3. In the surf.
Photo. Hines
Trove
1928 'SURFING AT PETREL COVE.', Observer
(Adelaide, SA : 1905 - 1931), 3 March, p. 37. ,
viewed 11 Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article165638426 |
|
Mirror
Perth, 3 March 1928, page 15.
WHEN THE
FARMER COMES TO TOWN
It takes him a while before he can
perform aquatic tricks like this.
A champion surf board rider conies
in on his head.
Trove
1928 'WHEN THE FARMER COMES TO TOWN', Mirror (Perth, WA :
1921 - 1956), 3 March, p. 15. , viewed 12 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article76410549
|
|
The West Australian
Perth, 17 March 1928, page 3.
SURFING AT BUNBURY
Carried on the wave.
The recent surf carnival at
Bunbury saw some spirited expositions of the use of
surf-boards.
Trove
1928 'SURFING AT BUNBURY.',
The West Australian (Perth, WA : 1879 - 1954), 17 March,
p. 3. (PICTORIAL SECTION), viewed 12 Apr 2016,
|
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article32098345
|
The Daily Mail
London, Wednesday 12 September 1928, page
?.
EFFORT TO POPULARISE
NEW SEW SEASIDE SPORT.
An effort is to be made to popularise surf-board riding,
described as the most thrilling sport in the world, at English
seaside resorts.
Mr. Justin C.
McAlister, an electrical engineer of Sydney, New South Wales,
the amateur surf-riding, champion of Australia, who has just
arrived in England after attending the Olympic games in
Amsterdam with the Australian team, said to a reporter:
At Manly
Beach, Sydney, there are 20,000 persons who bathe everyday,
and at this spot and at other favourite resorts there are surf
life-saving clubs composed entirely of amateurs.
At the end of
each season we have our championship contests, the most
important being the surf riding.
Surfboard-riding
is
the most thrilling sport that I know of, and I would like to
see it generally introduced into England.
A surf-board
is about nine feet in length and about two feet wide, tapering
to a blunt end.
You paddle the
board out about 250 yards, and, if skilled, pick your wave.
You propel
yourself forward with your arms, and when you feel the swell
carrying you towards the shore your test comes.
The secret
consists of keeping your balance.
If your are
experienced you find the right balancing point, and it is
possible to stand on your head.
If you get on
the crest of the wave you rush forward at a speed of at least
of at least 25 miles an hour.
Mr. McAlister
is searching for a suitable beach to make this sport popular.
At the moment
he has only has in mind Newquay, Cornwall.
Notes.
This article was kindly forwarded by Jeremy
Oxenden, via Joe Tabler's Surfblub,18 Aug 2010.
Museum of
British Surfing
http://www.museumofbritishsurfing.org.uk/
Many thanks to
Jeremy.
Andrew 'Boy'
Charlton was one of Australia's most succesful competitive
swimmers and a regular surf shooter at Manly Beach.
On his visit to
Europe in 1928 to compete in the Amsterdam Olympic Games, he
was accompanied by his trainer and fellow Manly surfer, Harry
Hay.
Hay was one of
several local surfers instructed in surfboard riding by Duke
Kahanamoku during his Austalian tour in 1914-1915,
subsequently became a jounalist and wrote one of the earliest
surfing books, Swimming
and
Surfing in 1931.
The 1500 metre
Olympic champion at the 1924 Paris games, in 1928 Charlton
came second in the 1500 metres and second in the 400 metres.
Other swimming
competitors included the American team members Johnny
Weismuller and Buster Crabbe, both competed with Kahanamoku
and both later played the role of Tarzan in Hollywood films.
On the day of
400 metre semi-finals:
"Among the
crowd that day was a group of Charlton supporters who had
come from the Manly Surf Club, including two late arrivals,
Sandy (sic) McAlister and Tommy Farrell.
They had
saved every penny to travel tourist class on the liner Jervis
Bay with just one purpose: to see their close friend
win the 1500 metres.
When a
stowaway caused the Jervis Bay to be delayed they
transferred to another vessel, but further problems occurred
in London and they missed the race.
Having gone
forty-eight hours without sleep they arrived at the pool
while Charlton's 400 metres heat was being swum.
McAlister, a
champion board rider, talked his way on to the starting
boards and saw the rest of the races from a prime position."
- Fenton: They
Called
Him Boy (2006) page 189.
Following the
Olymic competition, McAlister travelled to England, apparently
with a surfboard, and was
interviewed by
the Daily Mail about his intention to surf on the
beaches of Cornwall.
McAlister's
comment, "At Manly Beach, Sydney, there are 20,000 persons
who bathe everyday" is likely an exaggeration.
Similarly, "At
the
end of each season we have our championship contests, the most
important being the surf riding", possibly overstates the
status of boardriding at the surf life saving carnivals of the
period.
The most popular
and dramatic events were probably the surf boat races.
Western Mail
Perth, WA, Thursday 25 October 1928, page
4.
New Season's
Bathers and Belles
(8)
Daredevil Daisy : The popular Australian sport of
riding the waves on a surf-board has just been
introduced at Channel Islands resorts.
This
fair surf-rider is apparently not superstitious.
Trove
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The Sun
Sydney, 11 November 1928, page
25.
Riding
The Board on a Racing Wave- Here's How.
By Frank Foran,
Bondi's Star Board
Shooter
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Varroosh-
UmLT down on the
breast of a foaming
comber.
If horse racing is the
sport of kings, nobody
can convince me that board-shooting in the
sizzling surf isn't a thrill for
the gods.
Spring on the board, away you go.
A hundred miles an hour- it seems like it, anyhow.
Green vales of water
tearing past you.
Nobody in front.
You're all out; let her go- away on a spray-stinging, pulse-quickening
career to a distant
strip of golden sand.
But watch her
direction, keep your head.
Otherwise, it would be
a very sensible Idea if
you called out the local ambulance corps - to be prepared for any sensational emergency -
during your
exhilarating stunts.
Don't, do any board-shooting until
you have made sure you
are not going to be reckless, and until you have practised and know all
there is to be known
about the eight feet of timber beneath you.
I learned that lesson,
painfully, in the season of 1914-1915.
It was the first time I had ever seen board-shooting.
With that sturdy,
resolute, fiery-headed
Eastern Suburbs League forward, "Bluey" Watkins, I watched Duke Paoa Kahanamoku in action at Dee Why.
He was superbly
skilful, and I studied
his methods, but there must have been something amiss in the manner in which I
sized him up, and my
analysis of his tricks
At any rate, "Bluey"
and I soon obtained boards, and after a
little imitation of the adroitness of the Duke, "Bluey" was bluer than
ever with bruises, and
I ached from the tip of my nose to the extremities of my toes.
Naturally, we realised
we were doing it the
wrong way, so we tried different tactics, and gradually improved.
Somebody sent a surf board from Honolulu to the Surf
Life-saving Association's president (Mr. Patterson sic) in 1908, and a number
of our chaps tried
their hand at it, with some sort of success; but it was really Duke Kahanamoku who
showed
Sydney the true art,
and he ought to be awarded a medal for it.
" New excitement
was added to surflng.
It made body-shooting like like dog-paddling."
How do I do it?
I think mine is
the best on the coast.
That's why I have
drilled a hole in it, so that I can chain it up, and prevent anyone who
might nc appreciate
it from using my cherished old c
It
is a redwood board, eight feet long, and two feet wide, and three inches thick at the
centre.
Naturally, it
tapers— a board must taper.
If it doesn't it
will scarcely have a shoot in it.
It is 20 inches
wide at the back, and two inches thick.
Its thickness
forward, in the neighborhood of the nose, is one inch.
On the rear portion of it I screwed a wooden "cleat," a batten,
just to avoid splitting.
The sides have a
thickness of two inches and a half.
Underneath, it is
not flat, but gently curved.
The first board
I made was unsuitable, but I tried again, and the next satisfied
my desires.
The board I now possess is the
same old veteran I turned out years ago.
I have
fashioned dozens of boards,
and the only
tools I ever required were a plane and a saw.
Before the board
is allowed near the water, give it two coats of gold size and one
coat of varnish.
Sandpaper the board
and renew its protective coats
every season!
This will save
it from the ruinous effects of sun and water.
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Always keep it under a under roof out of the weather, or it will decay before
you have had fair use out of
it.
The board I have described is
excellent for beginners.
They will find that
it possesses better balance
than any other they are likely to experiment with, and consequently they are not likely
to experience so many
calamities in their endeavors to achieve perfection.
It is not such a
simple thing to slip off
this board, which
will be found easy to
master, particularly by women.
Now you have your board.
Then for the surf—
Don't go out too far, but
practise first in the shallows.
Stand at the rear of the board, looking sideways, and wait until a wave has broken.
Then spring on your board,
and go with it.
But be careful, there is danger here; for if you lie too
high, you will slide over,
the top, and probably bash your head on the sandy floor of the bay.
It is just as Important
not to lie too far back, because
the front will have a tendency to cant up and there is then the possibility of your
getting dumped, ;the board lurching forward,
leaping; back,non and giving you a hard, lusty blow, which may dissuade you forever from attempting to become an expert board
shooter.
Try
hard and you'll succeed— that is, if you have board-shooting
in you, and you possess that little
essential knack which makes board-shooting eventually simple.
Strike a balance, and use
your common-sense, for it
is all a matter of individual judgment.
That is all I can Impress
upon you in that direction.
Presuming that you have
now gained confidence, leap
on to the board and
demonstrate that you own
it, and that it will do all that you bid it to do.
Spread your hands forward,
and grasp the sides near
the nose.
If you find that your board is
dipping, slide back a little, and you'll balance her up again, but if it shows that it is
determined to dip, and dip
deeply, slide right off the board-over the front, or
you'll see all the stars there
are in the sport.
If it betrays a
tendency to dip down at
the back, move up a little forward, and then the board will be even once more.
Do not on any account
overlook this, that it is inadvisable
to commence board-shooting
until you have become a
good body-shooter.
There are some surfers, :
however, who will never become board shooters. at all.
It is often just pure luck
If the
board is not going as any normal, well-behaved board should go,
and you feel that there is going to be a crash, don't on any
account go over the side.
When you. think that you
can easy a shoot on a big wave without any risk of serious
injury, paddle out in a calm channel, because it is much
easier to get out there than to force yourself and your board against the incoming
waves
Recline on the board until the wave is
just about to break,
and then paddle furiously with it.
When your board is
going, it is a good plan to stand up immediately, but, to get right down again tp
the rudiments of this
thrilling pastime, don't do anything out of the ordinary until you are. able,
with ease, to shoot in
on the board
lying down.
While on your board, taking a wave,
you should occupy
about 3 feet of the timber, leaving 6ft. bare, and at least 2ft. 6in. of this
forward should be
standing starkly out of the water like a shark fin
If you don't follow
this little hint, there
is a likelihood of the nose dipping, and you will have lost a shoot, and probably the board, too, for the moment.
The safest plan is
never to let the board go.
Hang on like grim
death out on the deep
water, even if your board
is dipping, and
wherever it goes, maintain your grasp, and go with it.
When a wave is
breaking, and the board gets completely out of control, it will
leap about like
something demented, if released, and then there is a constant danger of grave injury
and possibly sudden
death, should it strike you.
Patience, and the
assimilation of helpful hints, will make you a board-shooter.
Nothing else.
It took me a fortnight
before I could paddle properly down on the waves, and it was another
fortnight before I
could manage to stand without, taking erratic plunges everywhere into the surf.
Even then I practised all day on Saturdays and
Sundays remaining in
the surf for
-hours
Make your board a study, and if
you expect that it Is
going to leap away from under your feet, thrust your left foot a little forward,
and, with the added
weight, the board
will, be in control
again
I stand 18 inches from
the back of. the board as soon as I feel she is going, and then,
when she is racing
like a live thing, I move ahead about 14 additional inches, with the left foot
extended towards the
nose.
When the board is travelling in
the wrong direction, dip
the opposite hand in the water, paddle away, and you'll bring her
back to her right
course again.
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There is a fallacy- it is not difficult
or so very dangerous to shoot
dumpers, provided always, of
course, you know how.
Turn the board until it is parallel
with the wave which you
have decided to catch, then lift the nose, and suddenly turn it straight again.
But just a confidential,
earnest note of warning.
If you are going to bo -a
board-shooter, keep away from the crowd.
Disregard this, and it is inevitable that somebody will get hurt.
Then the authorities will interfere, and board-shooting will probably become one of the lost arts.
Trove
1928
'Riding The Board on a Racing Wave-- Here's How', The Sun
(Sydney, NSW : 1910 - 1954), 11 November, p. 25. , viewed 06
Apr 2016, http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article223246421
The
West Australian
Perth, 15 November 1928, page 14.
GERALDTON WEEK.
The various sports to be conducted during Geraldton Week,
from January 28 to February 2- will include the following:-
...
surfing demonstrations, including exhibitions of surf
board riding;
Trove
1928 'GERALDTON
WEEK.', The West Australian (Perth, WA : 1879 - 1954), 15
November, p. 14. , viewed 12 Apr 2016,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article32237715
The Brisbane
Courier
Saturday 22 December 1928, page 24.
2BL, SYDNEY.
(Wavelength, 353metres.)
NIGHT session.- 8: The Manly Municipal Military Band; the King's Cross Theatre Orchestra: Charles
Lawrence, revue
broadcast from the surf on
Manly Beach; talk
by the Mayor of Manly;- Dorrie Ward, soprano; W. E. Lewis, baritone;
novelty
nonsense at the piano by Charles Lawrence; "History of Surf Bathing." by Basil Kirke;
Amy Astinga, contralto: community singing; description of beach sports;
carols.
Close down, midnight.
Trove
1928 '2BL, SYDNEY.', The Brisbane Courier (Qld. :
1864 - 1933), 22 December, p. 24, viewed 2 September, 2013,
http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article21340564
Geoff Cater (1997-2016) : Newspapers, 1928.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1928_Newspapers.html