Conriderablo skill is required in surf board riding.
The swimmer pushes his board out through the
shallow water and then paddles out to a
selected distance, where, lying upon, his surf-board
and facing the above,- he watcbea for a
suitable wave.
This selected, he paddles vigorously to
attain momentum, until overtaken by the wave,
when, if his skill, is what it should be, he
will be propped shore-warda at 30-40 mile per
.hour clip.
Experienced surfers are able to kneel
or stand upright upon tho board,
and many of the doting riders scoot shorewards,
on a wave standing on their head on the board.
To attain even greater, momentum than
30-40 miles, the experts at Waikiki now have a
practice of slanting the waves.
That is, after catching the wave and
bclnrf securely aiUiatcd, as it were, botlie
inclined plane of the wave, they keep the .pose
of their surf-board
headed toward the'6here,et iin"ftngr€/ instead
of coming straight in. at right angles to the
- line of the wave,.
This naturally gives
a greater -speed as o . greater distance is
travelled tn tho same time as the roller or
wave takes to reach the shore.
Surf-board
riding is an ancient and royal. sport,
ln the old days Hawaiian chiefs were given to
bartering. lands' ood titles on the results of
surf races.
.Today are to be seen hundreds of
native bova-and mea indulging in -M,b| truly
fascinating, sport, and, of course ;very many
of. the white residents have twined great
proficiency in the; art.
Arne Borg, 'well -known and endeared
lo. Australianaaa a great "sport," haa
been Jotting himself go with 4- vengeance
. m the waters of these fair Islands.
After attcuding to strict dieting end
living, on the Nlogaro, and doing a fort
fignt't water work .dolly here at 'Hono-
lunL in which: he waa In the water twice
1 dally, -and did" 1000 to 1500 yards'
steady'
work, he<;xpet the Hawaiian stars At
