surfresearch.com.au  bligh : tahiti, 1788

Bligh made several visits to Tahiti, initially in August-September 1777, as a member of Cook's crew  on
the third expedition, 1776 to1780
Following the mutiny on the Bounty, Bligh was again dispatched to Tahiti in 1791, this time successfully completing the mission.

Surfriding in Tahiti, using a damaged canoe, was reported in 1769 by Joseph Banks on Cook's first Pacific voyage in the Endeavour.
See 1769 Joseph Banks : Surf-riding in Tahiti.

On Cook's third pacific voyage, William Anderson, Surgeon 'Resolution' reported canoe surfriding in Tahiti, August-September 1777.
See

On one of Bligh's visits (1777 to 1791) he is reported to have observed Tahitian surfriders using rudimentary craft - their canoe paddles.

Bowker notes:
There is not the spape in this volume to include the entire log for this period, so I have selected those parts which bear upon the ship's mission and upon the mutiny to come; and I have included other items which appear to be of particular general and nautical interest.

Tuesday 28th October 1788
Fresh Breezes and fair Weather with Showers of Rain in the Middle part.
Wind at E. and E.N.E. and the Thermometer from 77 to 82.

Wednesday 29th October 1788
Fair Weather and a pleasant Trade Wind with some light showers of Rain and Lightning in the Middle part.
Wind at E. & E.N .E. and the Therm. from 81 to 79.

Thursday 30th October 1788
Fresh Breezes with Rain and Lightning in the Middle part and fresh Gales with heavy Rain towards Noon.
Wind at E. and E.N.E. and the Therm. from 81 to 79.

Friday 31st October 1788
Fresh Breezes and Squally with Rain.
Employed airing Sails and cleaning Ship.
Wind at East and E.N .E. and the Therm. from 81 to 79.

Tuesday 4th November 1788
Squally with Rain and intervals of fair Wr.
Wind from N .E. to E.B.S. Therm. from 81.5 to to 78.

Thursday 6th November 1788
Moderate Breezes & Cloudy Wr. with much Rain.
To Midnight the Wind at E. & E.B.N. when it varied to the southward and blew at West -the remainder of the day.
Much Swell setting into the Bay.
<...>
Thermometer from 82 to 79.
Saw some Porpoises.

Ideeah, Tynah's Wife began a Strange conversation, which was how the Women of England were delivered of their Children, and as I complied readily with the knowledge I had of the matter, I was led to the same curiosity with respect to the Otaheite Women.
In this particular I was fully satisfied, and Iddeeah represented the Woman in labour.
One of her attendants seated himself in the Tent where we were and Opening his knees took her between them in a sitting posture with her legs under so as to rest upon her heels.
His arms were brought round under hers, and his hands spread over the Upper part of the Belly, which they described were occasionally as the pains came on pressed downwards, and in this Manner the Mother was held untill the efforts of nature delivered her.
I asked if no person came to assist in delivery.
She said no, that was not proper, or indeed from her representation is it at all necessary for after a few distortions of the Countenance and trifling complaints the Infant was represented to be born.
From her enquiries she found our English Women suffered much and had Assistance in the moment of labour, at which she laughed heartily.
"Here," she said (placing herself in the posture already described) "let them do this & not fear and the Child will be safe."
I was now asked if our Women had more than one Child at a birth, I told her frequently two, and sometimes three; three she said was eeno or bad, that some Otaheite Women had three Children, but that the Woman generally died and some of the infants.

Sunday 9th November 1788
Moderate Breezes and fair Wr. with less Swell than Yesterday, but still much surf on the shore.
Wind at E.B.N. and E.S.E. and the Therm. at 81 to 81.5.

Thursday 13th November 1788
Having exposed myself much to the heat of the Sun and a dry scorching Wind, I was while at the Tents taken ill and continued in much pain for an hour.
It was soon known among the Natives, and I was immediately visited by Tynah and several principal People besides a Number of Women, among whom were Iddeah and many others of consequence.

Friday 21st November 1788
The first part of this day Light Breezes and cloudy with heavy Showers of Rain, the Middle and latter more moderate and but few Showers.
Wind E.N.E: to E.S.E. and the Therm. from 80 to 83.5.

Friday 21st November 1788
The Priest left off speaking and the Heiva began by the Men jumping and throwing their Legs and Arms into violent and odd motions, which the Women kept time with, and as they were conveniently cloathed for the Purpose, their persons were generally exposed to full view, frequently standing on one Leg and keeping the other up, giving themselves the most lascivious and wanton motions.
As this was for some time performed at the farthest part of the Ring from us, out of compliment the Women were directed to come nearer, and they accordingly advanced with their Cloaths up, and went through the same Wanton gestures which on their return ended the Heiva which is called Opah.

Page 262

In the course of this extraordinary performance the Queen and Cheif Women were highly delighted, and asked particularly if we had no such Heivas in England.
They felt no kind of shame.
Altho it is a fact that no people. unless in these dances. are more cautious and guard their persons with greater decency. They have nevertheless a great want of delicacy. as the performances of certain actions is very frequently without any reserve the Topic of conversation.

Monday 24th November 1788
Moderate and fair Wr.
Wind at E.B.N. and E.B.S. and Therm. from 85 to 83.
...
A very great swell has set into the Bay, from which I have been expecting the Wind from the Westward, but I now find it is owing to a N.N.E. Wind that has been blowing at Sea.

Friday 28th November 1788
The heavy surf which has run on the shore for a few days past has given great amusement to many of the Natives, but is such as one would suppose would drown any European.
The general plan of this diversion is for a number of them to advance with their paddles to where the Sea begins to break and placing the broad part under the Belly holding the other end with their Arms extended at full length, they turn themselves to the surge and balancing themselves on the Paddles are carried to the shore with the greatest rapidity.
As several seas follow each other they have those to encounter on their return, which they do by diving under them with great ease and cleverness.

The delight they take in this amusement is beyond anything, and is of the most essential good for them, for even in their largest and best Cannoes they are so subject to accidents of being overturned that their lives depend on their swimming, and habituing themselves to remain long in the Water.
They also practise with small Cannoes in these high surfs, and it is seldom that any of them get overturned or filled.

Saturday 29th November 1788
Strong Breezes and fair Wr. with some light showers of Rain.
Wind at E. and S.E.B.E. and the Therm. from 78 to 81.
P.M. received one Launch load of Wood.
Employed in the Hold.
Mending Sails and cutting Wood.

Page 263
Saturday 29th November 1788

It is not to be wondered at the strong desire the People here have for Axes, as they have acquired a most perfect use of them, and every person that has one belonging to them sets the highest value on it.
I had no want of my own People to cut Wood, for the Trees were felled and cut up with the greatest ease and readyness by the Natives, who also with much ...

Page 264

... chearfulness carried every billet of it to the Tents altho near half a Mile distant.

Monday 1st December 1788
Very Strong Breezes at E.S.E. with some showers of Rain.
The Air is now become more free and pleasant than it has been since I have been here.
The Therm. from 78 to 81. 

Tuesday 2nd December 1788.
Very Strong Breezes and cloudy Wr. with a few showers of Rain.
Wind at E.S.E. and the Therm. from 77.5 to 79.

Thursday 4th December 1788
Fresh Gales and Cloudy Wr. with some light showers of Rain.
Wind at E.S.E. and the Therm. from 78 to 80.
...
Much swell into the Bay.

Friday 5th December 1788
Fresh Gales and dark cloudy Wr. with much Rain in the Middle part and some Calms.
The Wind at E.B.S. Variable to the N. W. and latterly at E.S.E. and South.
Much swell setting in and the Sea at times breaking on the Dolphin Bank.
The Ship rolling very much and a heavy Surf on all parts of the Shore.
The Therm. from 77.5 to 79.
...
Tynah and his wife came and dined with me altho the Sea very rough.

Saturday 6th December 1788
I experienced a scene of to day of Wind and Weather which I never supposed could have been met with in this place.
The Wind Varied from E.S.E. to the N. W. and the Therm. stood between 78 and 81 to.
By Sun set a very high breaking Sea ran across the Dolphin Bank, and before seven O'Clock it made such way into the Bay that we rode with much difficulty and hazard.
Towards Midnight it increased still more, and we rode untill eight in the Morning in the midst of a heavy broken sea which frequently came over us.
The Wind at times dying away was a great evil to us for the Ship from the tremendous Sea that broke over the Reefs to the Eastward of Point Venus, producing such an outset thwarting us against the Surge from the bank which broke over us in such a Manner, that it was necessary to batten every part of the Ship.
In this state we remained the whole Night with all hands up in the midst of torrents of Rain, the Ship sending and rolling in a most tremendous manner, and the Sea foaming all round us so as to threaten instant destruction.
However I did not strike Yards and Topmasts untill eight in the Morning when the ...

Page 268

...Wind encreasing from the N. W. I gave up all Ideas but riding it out, and made the Ship as fit for it as possible.

In this situation my Friends on shore became very anxious for my safety.
All the Natives said the Pyheerahigh would be on shore, and my People at the Tents were not much less unpleasantly situated, for the Point on which they were became an Island from the Flood of Rain which had swelled the River to a great degree and the sudden influx of the Sea, which combined, the Plants became in danger, but this was remedied by Mr. Nelson and his Assistant cutting a passage through the beach for the River at a distance from the Tents, when their situation no longer became hazardous.
The Sea broke in a very great degree on all parts of the Beach, Yet my Friend Tynah his Wife and Moannah came through it all to see me when I could not have supposed any Boat could have existed a moment.
They were no useless passengers on board the Cannoe in which they came, each had their Paddle and the Sea was such as required them to be used with much Skill and dexterity; and not less risk to get into the Ship.

<...>

The sudden change in my proceedings which will oblige me to leave these affectionate people gives me much concern.
I had conceived I might have staid here untill the 25th of January at least, which answers to the 25th July in the West Indies, but I find I dare not risk it.
From my enquiries hitherto I have found in general that the season now advances for bad Weather, yet I did not believe it.
They even described to me that the Wind at times blows the Trees down, but as I had never seen any proof of it I had considered Matavai a secure place.
In this I am very much mistaken, and recommend it to future Navigators not to lie here towards the Southern Solstice.
Under these considerations I am determined to remove to Imeo for a secure Harbour, and shall complete and prepare the ship for putting to Sea with all dispatch.
To Noon the Weather had little appearance of becoming better but the Sea was some what abated.

Wednesday 10th December 1788
Wind and Weather as Yesterday and the Therm. from 81 to 82.
...
In the Morning very little Swell in the Bay.

Thursday 11th December 1788
Light Variable Winds round the Compass and fair Wr.
Therm. from 78 to 82.
<...>
In the Morning the Weather became remarkably fine and we had less Surf on the Shore than we have seen in common, and I therefore took the Opportunity to send some Bread on shore to Air and clear of Weevils, about which we were principally employed.

Saturday 13th December 1788
Fresh Breezes and fair Wr. with some Rain.
Wind at E.S.E. and Therm. from 78 to 81.

Sunday 14th December 1788
Fresh Breezes at S.E. and E.S.E. with Squalls and Rain.
Therm. from 78 to 8O.25.
<...>

In the Afternoon I returned from Oparre where are two Reef Harbours.
The Westermost is the most convenient as a Ship may sail in and out of it with the common Easterly Wind, but as there is not room for a Ship to be sheltered from the N. W. I am apprehensive a very heavy Sea sets in when the Wind is in that quarter as well as at Matavai.
The Entrance into this Harbour which is called by the Natives Taowne, may be known by a very uncommon & remarkable Mountain (called Wawry) which bears S.S.E. from it, and lies in a very extraordinary manner between the two principal high lands of this Part of the Island.
It is about 6 Miles from Point Venus.

The Eastermost or Toahroah Harbour is also small, but it is as secure as a Reef Harbour can well be. The Inlet is safe but not half a Cables length wide and about 4 Miles from Point Venus.
The entrance being on the East side and deep water without it, is the only objection to this place, for with the common Trade Wind a Ship could not without much diffeculty & trouble get out.
This Harbour may be known by keeping within a Mile of the Shore, after passing Matavai, untill you see the Reefs that form it, and the entrance, the South point having a Morai on it, but the Reef side is to be kept on board, and a look out kept from aloft if you cannot see the Shoal Water from the Deck.
I shall however give fuller directions hereafter about this place.

Thursday 18th December 1788
Fresh Breezes and Cloudy with much Rain towards Noon fair Wr.
Wind E.B.N., S.E., E.S.E. and Variable.
Therm. from 77 to 81. 

Friday 19th December 1788
Moderate and fair Wr. with some Squalls of Rain.
Wind from E.S.E. to E.N.E. and the Therm from 79 to 82.
...
Towards Morning a long Swell began to set into the Bay and by Noon broke across the Dolphin Bank altho the Wind fresh off the Shore, the Sky also became very Cloudy.
This Bank altho 2 fathoms Water on the ...

Page 275

shoalest part of it creates a great Swell in the Bay with the Wind from the N.E. (Which I apprehend is the direction of it at Sea) and makes this a very unpleasant place to lye in at this Season.
I had supposed untill what I have now seen that a Ship might ride smooth here with the Wind at North or even N.N.W. but I am very much mistaken and I shall therefore as I find the Weather to be so little depended upon, Sail for a Secure Harbour as soon as possible

Saturday 20th December 1788
Fresh Gales and dark Cloudy Wr. with heavy Squalls of Rain Thunder and Lightning.
Wind at E.B.N. and the Therm. from 77 to 80.

A very heavy Swell in the Bay and a great sea on the Dolphin Bank & much Surf on the shore, Ship rolling very deep.
Employed about such necessary duties as can be done.
Sick list 2 Venereals.

This Afternoon I told Tynah that as the Weather was become unsettled and so much Sea run into the Bay, I should leave him very soon as it was unsafe for the Ship to ride here and therefore desired him to let me know what things he wanted to have done by the Forge and Carpenters and to send them on board without delay.

Tuesday 23rd December 1788
Fresh Breezes and dark gloomy Wr. with continual Rain and much Thunder and Lightning.
Wind at E., E.N.E. and N.E.
Therm. 77 to 78.5.
Two Venereals in the List.
Sailmakers employed about the Sails, and as I am now determined to sail in course of a few days if possible I ordered the Staysails to be bent.

Wednesday 24th December 1788
Fresh breezes at E. and E.N.E. and dark cloudy Wr. with much Rain and some intervals dry.
The Therm. from 77 to 79.5.
...

This Afternoon I sent the Master away in the Launch to sound and examine the Depth of Water and ground between One Tree Hill and the East harbr of Oparre.
In the Evening he returned and reported to me that he found 16 and 17 fathoms Water with a good bottom all the Way.
I therefore determined immediately of going into this Harbour and made the necessary preparations for taking the Plants on board.

<...>

Page 277
This Eastermost Harbour of Oparre is completely sheltered by the Reefs from any Winds and from the Sea.
The Situation also is very desirable on Account of ye plants & Abounds with others in case any of those J have fail; for this Reason in particular as I beleive the ship will be equally safe as in the Harbour of Imeo, I have given it the preference. 

Remarks in Toaroah Harbour, Oparre.
Thursday 25th December 1788
MODERATE WINDS AT E.N.E. DARK CLOUDY Wr in the Afternoon with some Rain but fair in the Morning.
The Therm. from 77 to 80.

Friday 26th December 1788
First and Middle parts Modte breezes and Squalls of Rain, the latter a fresh Trade and fair Wr. Wind E.B.S. and E.N .E. Therm. from 82 to 83.

Saturday 27th December 1788
Strong breezes and fair Wr with light Winds and calms in the Night & Morning.
Wind E.N.E. and Westerly.
Therm. from 79 to 82
....

Page 279

This is a delightful situation in every respect.
I lye perfectly sheltered by the Reefs, with smooth Water and close to a fine Beach without the least surf on it, and I have therefore directed the Ship to be laid up and everything put below for the remainder of the time I stay in this Country, except I go to Imeo for Wood or for any unforseen Accidents.
Tomorrow I ordered to be kept Christmas Day, and the People served Double Allowance of Grog.

Sunday 28th December 1788
Fair Wr with Fresh Breezes in the day with some showers of Rain and light Variable Winds at Night. Therm. at 80 and 81.

Monday 29th December 1788
Fair Wr with a few showers and fresh Breezes in the day with light ...

Page 280
... Airs and Calms in the Night.
Wind at E.N.E. and the Therm. 79.5 to 82.

Wednesday 31st December 1788
Fresh breezes and fair Wr the first and latter part, the middle Calm and Lightning.
Wind E.N.E. and the Therm. 81 and 83.
...

The situation of Oparre is considerably warmer than Matavai, and for this reason, that lying within Point Venus the Trade Wind very frequently blows past it, and at any time never has it of equal continuance, whereas at Matavai you have generally a constant Wind unless Calm at Sea.

Thursday Ist January 1789
First part fresh Breezes and Cloudy, Middle Calm and the latter moderate with very heavy Rain.
Wind at E.N.E. and Variable to North.
The Therm. 80 & 82.

Friday 2nd January 1789
Squally with Rain first and middle part and Light Winds from the Land.
Latter part fair Wr.
Wind N.E., E.S.E., E.N.E.
Therm. 79 to 82.

Monday 5th January 1789
Very Squally with much rain and some Calms in the Middle part.
Wind E.N.E. and Therm. 79 to 81.5.

Tuesday 6th January 1789
Very Squally Wr and Rain with Thunder and Lightning.
Wind E.N.E. and sometimes Westerly.
Therm. 79 to 81.

Wednesday 7th January 1789
Very Squally Weather with Rain.
Thunder and Lightning.
Wind E.N.E. and E.B.S. and the Therm. from 79 to 82.
Sick List 3 Venereals.
The weather so very bad we have had little Communication with the Natives, very few of them came to the Ship.

Friday 9th January 1789
Fair Wr with Strong Winds at Sea, and some Calms in the Night and a few light showers of Rain.
Wind at E.N .E. and Therm. 80 and 84.

Saturday 10th January 1789
Strong Breezes and fair Wr but the Sky much Streaked and threatens more dirt.
In the Night, Calm. Wind at E.N .E. and E.S.E.
Therm. 79 to 82.

Wednesday 14th January 1789
Fresh breezes and Fair Wr.
Calms in the Middle part and some small Rain with Thunder and Lightning.
Wind E.N .E. Therm. 79 to 82.

Thursday 15th January 1789
Strong Trade and fair Wr with Calms in the middle part with Lightning and som slight showers of Rain. Wind E.N.E. and Therm. 80 to 84.

Friday 16th January 1789
Fair Wr and Fresh Breezes at E.N.E. with Calm in the Middle part.
Therm. 80 to 83.5.

Saturday 17th January 1789
Fresh Trade at E.N .E. with Calm in the Middle part and some showers of Rain.
Therm. 79 to 83.5.

Monday 19th January 1789
Strong Breezes and fair Wr with some Rain.
Thunder and Lightning and Calm in the Middle part.
Wind Westerly and E.N.E.
Therm. 81 to 83.75.

Thursday 22nd January 1789
Variable Weather with Calms, Rain and Thunder and Lightning.
Wind all round the Compass.
Therm. 79 to 81.5.
A very heavy Sea breaking allover Matavai Bay and as much on the Reefs here.

Friday 23rd January 1789 ,
Fresh Gales and Squally weather with much Rain, Thunder and Lightning.
Wind at East, E.S.E. and Therm. 77 to 80.5.

Page 293

A very heavy Sea set in on all the Reefs, and I could not at a better time have been in the Harbour of Ta-owne than passing it last night and to day, to know if there was bad riding in it.
On the west part of the Harbour the sea rolled in over the Reefs and created some swell, but on the East and where a Ship might lye conveniently moored it was as smooth nearly as in this, and altho there was a Surf on the lee part of the Harbour, yet a boat might land without much difficulty, and I believe a Ship might lye here all the Year round with great safety.

Since I have been here Matavai has shown itself to be a very dangerous place, a high breaking sea almost constantly running over the Dolphin Bank unto the Shore, and likewise over the Bank near to one Tree Hill where the sea breaks with great violence.

Saturday 24th January 1789
Variable and bad Weather with Rain.
Calms and Thunder & Lightning.
Fair towards Noon.
Wind N.E., E. and Westerly.
Therm. 79 to 83

Tuesday 27th January 1789
Variable Weather with Calms and a great deal of Rain.
Wind all round the Compass.
Therm. 77 to 81.
<...>
The Sea at Matavai still keeps up and a Ship would have been in a very unsafe situation to have been there since I left.

Wednesday 28th January 1789
Fresh Gales and hard Squalls with heavy Rain.
Thunder & Lightning. Wind E.N.E. and E.S.E.
Therm. 78 to 82.
Towards Noon Cloudy Wr.
Employed occasionally as the weather would permitt.
Much Sea in Matavai.
<...>

Page 296
Notwithstanding the wet Weather my People in very good health. The temperature of the Climate is very pleasant and agreeable and not that sultry heat which is commonly met with in wet Weather.

Saturday 31st January 1789
Fair Wr with some light showers of Rain and Lightning.
Calms in Middle part.
Wind N.E. and E.S.E. and Therm. from 80 to 83.5.

Wednesday 4th February 1789
Fresh Breezes and Cloudy Wr with Squalls and Rain at times.
Calm and Thunder and Lightning.

Friday 6th February 1789
Untill Midnight Moderate Breezes and dark Cloudy Wr with Rain at times.
The remaining part of the 24 Hours fresh Gales with a continual heavy Rain and a Cold Air.
Wind E.N.E. and between the N. and West.
Therm. 76 and 77.

Sunday 8th February 1789
Moderate Wr with Rains, with fresh Breezes and Squally in the latter part.
Wind Westerly, N.E., W. and E.N.E.
The Therm. 77 to 80.75.

Monday 16th February 1789
Very Squally Wr with heavy Rain at times untill the Morning, then Cloudy.
Wind E.N.E., Westerly, E. and E.N.E.
Therm. 77 to 80.

Tuesday 17th February 1789
Very Squally and Strong Winds at times, some Rain, Light Winds ...

Page 299

... with Intervals of fair W r.
Wind E.N .E. and Therm. 80 and 82.
<...>

In the Afternoon I was detained at a House a small distance from my Post to see a particular Heivah performed by Women which Iddeeah told me I had never yet seen.
I therefore waited the event which was only a Wrestling Match by Women of Attahooroo and those of Oparre.
The manner of challenging and method of Attack is exactly the same as with the Men, but they differ from them in every other respect by being as savage as Wild Beasts; among the many degrees of Violence with which they endeavor to injure one another for life, is what is called gouging (in England but is now I beleive not practised) this is forcing the Thumb into the socket of the Eye and turning it out.
My presence at this time prevented a circumstance of this kind, and as I could find no pleausre in such an amusement, I put an end to it and ordered them to leave off.
When I spoke to Iddeeah and other principal people about it, that it was a disgrace to them, they laughed at me and said it was 'Myty Taheite' -it was customary in Otaheite.

The Women not only wrestle among themselves but sometimes with the Men.
Iddeeah is said to be very famous.

Thursday 26th February 1789
Fair Wr the first and Middle parts with some light showers, the latter dark Cloudy Wr and some Rain. Wind N.E.B.E., S.E., N.B.E.
Therm. 81 to 83.

<...>

Several Cannoes and Men and Women have been lost since we have been here in their excursions to Tetturaoh.
Their being overset in their Cannoes is not the least risk they have to run, as the Sharks frequently make a meal of them, and indeed were I to credit the accounts they are ...

Page 300

...much more plenty than on the Coast of Africa.
I am told likewise there are a kind of Sword fish that as they vault along on the Water they peirce many people through the Body and kill them.
They speak also of a kind of Fish like Bavia coota and attribute to them the same propensity, that of seizing the privacies of Men, as they are said to have in the West Indies.

Monday 2nd March 1789
Fresh Gales and Squally Weather with constant heavy Rain.
Wind N.W., W.N.W., W.B.S., and the Therm. 78 to 80.5.
 

Page 301: Third Large Swell at Matavai Bay, Tahiti, March 1789.

<...>

The Wind blowing Strong from the N. W.
I sent a Man down to Taowne Harbour (t) to see if the Sea set much in, it being open to that quarter.
He returned with an Account that a great Sea broke all over it and that it would have been bad riding there for any Ship, and that a Great surf run on the Shore.
Matavai is equally bad, but here we lye as smooth as in a Mill-pond.

Bowker notes:
(t) Taowne Harbour (now called Taunoa) is about one mile westward of Toaroah harbour (left-hand lower corner of Chart on pages 260-1.
Taowne is open to the N. W. and connected to Toaroah by an intricate passage through the reefs, suitable only for small craft.

Saturday 7th March 1789
Light Variable Winds and much Rain.
Wind Westerly and round the Compass.
Therm. 80 to 82.

Sunday 8th March 1789
Moderate Breezes and Cloudy Wr, much Rain and at times Calm.
Wind Westerly.
Therm. 81 to 82.
A High Sea running over the Dolphin Bank into Matavai Bay.

<...>
The changes of the Air is very sudden sometimes it is exceedingly Sultry and Hot, and then in turn frequently Chilly, so that from inadvertency in their cloathing they become subject to those complaints.

Wednesday 18th March 1789
Light Winds with Calms and fair Wr.
Wind N. Wly.
Therm. 79.5 to 84.

Thursday 19th March 1789
Light Winds and Calms, latter part Cloudy Wr.
Wind N.E.B.E., E.B.S. and E.N.E.
Therm. 80 to 83.75.

Wednesday 25th March 1789
Fair Wr with Light Winds and Calms in the middle part.
Wind N.E. and Westerly.
Therm. 80 and 83.5.

Thursday 26th March 1789
The Afternoon and Morning of this Day fresh Gales and Cloudy with fair Intervals, the night fair Wr and Calms with some flaws of Wind.
Wind mostly N.E. and E.N.E. in the Night.
Westerly Airs.

Friday 27th March 1789
Fresh Gale and Squally with some Rain the first and latter part, the middle less Wind, some Rain Thunder and Lightning.
New Moon to day.
Wind N.E. and E.N.E.
Therm. 80 to 84. .

Saturday 28th March 1789
Strong Breezes, moderating in the Night with Showers of Rain, Thunder and Lightning.
Wind N., N.E. and E.N.E.
Therm. 81 to 83.5.

Sunday 29th March 1789
Strong Breezes moderating in the Night with Showers of Rain, Thunder and Lightning.
Wind N.Ely.
Therm. 80 to 83.

Monday 30th March 1789
Fresh Breezes and Squally Wr with some Showers of Rain. Wind E.N.E. Therm. 80 to 83.5.

Wednesday 1st April 1789
The first and middle part Fresh Gales and Squally, moderating at intervals and some Showers of Rain, the middle part Light Winds and showers.

Saturday 4th April 1789
Fresh Breezes and Cloudy Wr the first and latter part, the middle Light airs and Calms.
Wind E.B.N.
Therm. 81.5 to 83.

Image right: The 'Bounty's anchorage at Matavia Bay, Tahiti 26th October to 24th December, 1788. (10) The Dolphin Bank is to the east of the anchorage. The soundings are in fathoms. As a result of two extreme surf events that threatened the safety of the ship, Bligh moved the Bounty north to Toaroah Harbour for the remainer of the visit, departing on Sunday 5th April 1789.

EXTRACTS (f to s adjusted from original, otherwise original spellings)
Page 66
Tuesday 28th October 1788

Tinah is a very large man, much above the common stature, being not less than six feet four inches in height, and proportionably stout: his age about thirty-five.
His wife (Iddeah) I judged to be about twenty-four years of age: she is likewise much above the common size of the women at Otaheite, and has a very animated and intelligent countenance.

Page 89
Saturday 8th November to Tuesday 11th November 1788
A report of a wrestling contest :

Iddeah was the general umpire, and she managed with so much address as to prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring at her decisions.
As her person was large, she was very conspicuous in the circle.
Tinah took no part in the management.
Upon the whole, this performance gave me a better opinion of their strength than of their skill or dexterity.

Page 100
Friday 5th December 1788

The weather for some time past had been very unsettIed.
This afternoon, the wind blew fresh from the N W, which occasioned the sea to break very high across the Dolphin bank; and in the night such a heavy broken sea came into the bay, that we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down, and to keep every body upon deck all night, though the rain came down in torrents.
The ship rolled in a most violent manner.

Page 100
Saturday 6th December 1788

In the morning the wind increasing, and there being no possibility of putting to sea, we struck yards and topmasts, and trusted to our anchors.
The river swelled so much with the rain, that the point of land on which the tents stood became an island; and, to preserve the bread-fruit plants from being endangered, the people were obliged to cut a passage for the river through a part of the beach, at a distance from the tents.
The sea broke very high on the beach; nevertheless, a canoe put off, and, to my surprise, Tinah, his wife, and Moannah, made their way good through the surf, and came on board to see me.
There was no other person in the canoe, for the weather did not admit of useless passengers: each of them had a paddle, which they managed with great activity and skill.
These kind people embraced me with many tears and expressed their apprehensions for the safety of the ship.
Towards noon, however, the sea abated conside- ...

Page 101

... rably, but the wind continued to blow strong from the N W.
At sun-set, Iddeah went on shore, but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.

Page 116
Wednesday 14th December 1788

The wood that we had got at Matavai being expended, I applied to Tinah, who sent three trees down to the water side before night, which when cut up made a good launch load.

Page 121
Saturday 31st January 1789

After breakfast, I walked with Tinah to Matavai, to see the cattle and the gardens.
Tinah had already taken fo large a dose of the Ava, that he ,was perfectly stupified.
Iddeah, however, was with us, and she is one of the most intelligent persons I met with at Otaheite.

Page 130
Wednesday 25th February 1789

lddeah was very uneafy to-day, on account of her youngest child being ill.
She would not accept of assistance from our surgeon, but said fhe had sent to Tettaha for a ...

Page 131

... man, who she expected would come and tell her what to do.

Page 133
Monday 2nd March 1789

We had began to make preparations for sailing; and Tinah supplieu us with a sufficient stock of wood, by ordering trees to be brought down from the country.
He had frequently expressed a wish that I would leave some fire-arms and ammunition with him, as he expected to be attacked after the ship sailed; and, perhaps, chiefly on account of our partiality to him: I, therefore, thought it but reafonable to attend to his request; and I was the more readily prevailed on, as he said his intentions were to at only on the defensive.
This indeed seems most suited to his dispofition, which is neither active nor enterprising.
If Tinah had spirit in proportion to his size and strength, he would probably be the greatest warrior in Otaheite: but courage is not the most conspicuous of his virtues.
When I promised to leave with him a pair of pistols, which they prefer to muskets, he told me, that lddeah would fight with one, and Oedidee with the other.
Iddeah has learnt to load and fire a musquet with great dexterity, and Oerlidee is an excellent marksman.
It is not common for women in this country to go to war, but lddeah is a very resolute woman, of a large make, and has great bodily strength.

Compare and contast with Joseph Banks earlier account of Surf-riding in Tahiti, 1769.
Also note the 1788 account by the Bounty's boatswain's mate, James Morrison : Surfriding in Tahiti

McGinness follows with several deductions.

The sport was very crude in those early years.
They did not have specially constructed boards, but simply used paddles, presumably from their canoes. (1)
Nor, apparently, did they attempt to trim across the wave, but rode straight in to the shore.
Surfing of this type was widespread throughout Polynesia.
It had no cultural importance and took no great skill to perform.
Only in Hawaii did surfing develop significantly.

Bligh, William, (1754-1817):
The log of the Bounty; being Lieutenant William Bligh's log of the proceedings of His Majesty's
armed vessel Bounty in a voyage to the South Seas, ...  Now published for the first time from the
manuscript in the Admiralty records, with an introduction and notes by Owen Rutter, comments on
Bligh's navigation by Rear-Admiral J. A. Edgell ... and four engravings on wood by Lynton Lamb.
London: Golden Cockerel Press, 1937. Two volumes.
The entry is in  Volume 1, pages 408-9.

Many thanks to Daved for his contribution.

Compare and contast with Joseph Banks earlier account of Surf-riding in Tahiti, 1769.
Also note the 1788 account by the Bounty's boatswain's mate, James Morrison : Surfriding in Tahiti

surfresearch.com.au

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