surfresearch.com.au  banks :   surf-riding in tahiti, 1769

For a bibliographical list of primary sources for the third voyage, see ..
UCLA Library Department of Special Collections
Exhibition catalog : Cook's First Voyage (1768-1771)
http://www.library.ucla.edu/special/scweb/cookcheck1.htm

James Cook R.N.
James Cook led three scientific and exploratory expeditions to the Pacific Ocean for the British Navy, from 1768 to 1780.
His achievements were considerable.

The first voyage (1768-1771), in the Endeavour, recorded the transit of Venus from Tahiti, circumnavigated New Zealand and established the extent of the east coast of Australia.
This largely disproved a prevalent theory, Terra Australis incognita, of a massive southern continent - ostensibly to balance those of the northern hemisphere.
The voyage was expertly recorded (note Cook's superb mapping techniques) and returned a huge collection of cultural and botanical specimens - these were also features of the subsequent voyages.

Joseph Banks
Joseph Banks was an English aristocrat with an inexhaustive appetite for the accumulation of scientific knowledge characteristic of the Age of Enlightenment.
He personally funded his party's passage aboard the Endeavour and, with his associate Dr Solander, was largely responsible for the massive amount of botanical and cultural material that was collected.
Banks' description of surf-riding is rich in detail and typical of his scientific approach, however he appears not to have questioned the riders about their activity and the exact nature of the craft ("stern of an old canoe") is difficult to determine.
Although the report was not available in print until 1962 (?),  the activity was witnessed by other members of the expedition and it would seem improbable that this "strange diversion" was not later a topic of discussion at the captain's table.
Cook was to record canoe surfing on his return to Tahiti in 1777, and the third voyage recorded the first European account of Hawaiian surf-riding and the first image of a surfboard by John Weber.
See 1779  Lt James King : Surf-riding in Hawaii.

28th May 1769.
Volume 1, page 281

28. This morn the pinnace set out for the Eastward (2) with the Cap'tn Dr Solander and myself. Dootahah was removd from Tettahah where Mr Hicks saw him on the 24th to Atahourou, about 6 miles farther, a place to which the boat could not go. (3)
We were resolv'd not to be disapointed so walkd afoot.

Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).
2. A slip for Westward.

3. This may have been at Point Punaauia, where there was a great marae; but it may also have been at Tuteha's marae of Maraetaata, about two miles farther on.
We do not know where the party started walking; for Tettaha as a place name is almost as vague as Atahourou.
Why the boat could not go farther is unclear, unless Cook feared difficulty with the reef.
He himself merely says, 'as we had left the Boat about half way behind us we were oblige'd to take up our quarters with him for the night'.

28th May 1769.
Volume 1, Journal, page 258, Beaglehole, page 283

In our return to the boat (1) we saw the Indians (2) amuse or excersise themselves in a manner truly surprizing.(3)
It was in a place where the shore was not guarded by a reef as is usualy the case, consequently a high surf fell upon the shore, a more dreadfull one I have not often seen: no European boat could have landed in it and I think no Europaean who had by any means got into [it] could possibly have saved his life ...

Journal, page 259
...  as the shore was coverd with pebbles and large stones.(4)
In the midst of these breakers 10 or 12 Indians (5) were swimming who whenever a surf broke near them divd under it with infinite ease, rising up on the other side (6); but their chief amusement was carried on by the stern of an old canoe (7), with this before them they swam out (8) as far as the outermost breach (9), then one or two would get into it (10) and opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave (11) were hurried in with incredible swiftness. (12)
Sometimes they were carried almost ashore but generaly the wave broke over them before they were half way (13), in which case the[y] divd and quickly rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands (14), which was towd/(swam) out again and the same method repeated (15).
We stood admiring this very wonderfull scene for full half an hour, in which time no one of the actors atempted to come ashore but all seemd most highly entertaind with their strange diversion. (16)

As we were returning to the boat, however, we were entertained with a sight that in some measure compensated for our fatigue and disappointment. In our way we came to one of the few places where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and, consequently, a high surf breaks upon the shore; a more dreadful one indeed I had seldom seen; it was impossible for any European boat to have lived in it; and if the best swimmer in Europe had, by any accident, been exposed to its fury, I am confident that he would not have been able to preserve himself from drowning, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large stones; yet, in the midst of these breakers, were ten or twelve Indians swimming for their amusement: whenever a surf broke near them, they dived under it, and, to all appearance with infinite facility, rose again on the other side.
This diversion was greatly improved by the stern of an old canoe, which they happened to find upon the spot; they took this before them, and swam out with it as far as the outermost beach, then two or three of them getting into it, and turning the square end to the breaking wave, were driven in towards the shore with incredible rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach; but generally the wave broke over them before they got half way, in which case they dived, and rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands: they then swam out with it again, and were again driven back, just as our holiday youth climb the hill in Greenwich park for the pleasure of rolling down it.
At this wonderful scene we stood gazing for more than half an hour, during which time none of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed to enjoy their sport in the highest degree; we then proceeded in our journey, and late in the evening got back to the fort.

1. "our return to the boat ..."
Lt. Cook, Dr. Solander, Banks and several midshipmen set out from Fort Venus, Matavai Bay in the pinnace on the morning of the 28th May 1769 and headed east.
After approximately six miles (?), Cook decided to beach the boat and the party continued on foot.
After an overnight stay they returned to the pinnace on the 29th May.
The surf-riding activity was observed from shore and probably by all members of the party.

Cook's Journal (Beaglehole, 1955?)  confirms that Cook and Solander accompanied Banks on the return to the beached pinnace ..."stay'd with them (local Tahitians) till near noon ... got to the Fort  late in the evening."
(Volume1?, Page 96)  when the surf-riding activity is reported.
Despite many early sections of his journal being sourced from Banks, Cook does not mention the surf-riding.

I have not been able to identify a possible location for the report.

2. "the Indians"
Native Tahitians

3. "a manner truly surprizing."
Strongly infers that this is the first observation by members of Cook's expedition of surf-riding activity in the Pacific.

4.  "... was not guarded by a reef ..."
Notes the lack of the outside reef, allowing substantial swell to break close to shore in conditions perceived by Banks to be extremely dangerous.

5. "10 or 12 Indians "
This indicates surf-riding as a community activity but it does not indicate the age or the sex of the riders, often a feature of later reports.

6. "divd under it with infinite ease, rising up on the other side"
In contemporary surf-riding terminology, this manoeuvre is known as a 'duck-dive" and was first illustrated by Wallis McKay, circa 1874.

7. "the stern of an old canoe"
Initially it appears to indicate only one craft, but as the report progresses it may indicate that most, if not all the riders were using surf-craft.
This is the most difficult concept to interpret - was the craft actually
a. the stern of an old canoe, or
b. a stern of an old canoe that had been modified for wave riding, or
c. a craft that resembled the stern of an old canoe ?

Editors Note
When previously considering possible developments in ancient prone surf-riding boards,
I had written (2004?) ...

9. "as far as the outermost breach"
From the take-off  zone, maximizing the wave height and the length of ride, and sometimes "they were carried almost ashore".

10. "one or two would get into it "
Single and tandem riders.
The "get into it" is problematic and there is no reference, as might be expected at this juncture of the narrative, to the substantial difficulties of achieving successful take-off.
Apparently these Tahitian surf-riders were highly proficient in this skill.

11. "opposing the blunt end to the breaking wave "
Possibly the craft had a rounded nose ("canoe stern") and a square tail ("blunt end").

12. "with incredible swiftness."
This possibly indicates that the riders were travelling faster than wave speed, and were cutting or angling across the wave face.

13. "generally the wave broke over them before they were half way"
A substantial part of the ride was on the wave face before it actually broke as white-water.

14. "the[y] divd and quickly rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands"
A variation on a manoeuvre known as an "Island Pull-out", it indicates the importance of securing the craft in difficult conditions.

15. "which was towd out again and the same method repeated"
A continuous process of wave riding followed by paddling ("towd") back out through the surf.

16. "... admiring this very wonderfull  scene ... most highly entertaind with their strange diversion."
An emphasis on the pleasurable features of the activity.

For a detailed account of the research methodology for this entry, see below.

Figure 31.  Purea's canoe, by H.D. Sporing B.M. Add. MS 23921-23a Sporing in Cook: Voyages (1991),  Volume 1, between  pages 112-113.  Purea, an elderly queen of Tahiti is named in the journals as "Oborea". Note difference in the stem (bow) and stern design. Also note the wave at the far right, see below..

Detail: Wave  Figure 31. Purea's canoe, by H.D. Sporing B.M. Add. MS 23921-23a Sporing in Cook:Voyages (1991), Volume 1, between  pages 112-113. This is an attempt to illustrate the dynamics of a breaking wave clearly shows the conical structure of the wave face that is integral to the mechanics of surfriding.

Volume 1, Pages 319 - 320
21st July 1769
Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).

Page 319

21. Dr Solander and myself walkd out this morn and saw many large Boathouses like that describd at Huahine page 303 and 401. (2)
On these the inhabitants were at work making and repairing the large Canoes calld by them Pahee, (3) at which business they workd with incredible cleverness tho their tools certainly were as bad as possible.
I will first give the dimensions and description of one of their boats and then their method of building. Its extreme lenght from stem to stern not reckoning the bending up of both those parts 51 feet; breadth in the clear at the top forward 14 inches, midships 18, aft 15; in the bilge forward 32 inches, midships 35, aft 33; depth midships 3 ft 4; hight from the ground she stood on 3 ft 6; her head raisd without the figure 4 ft 4 from the ground, the figure I I inches; her stern 8 ft 9, the figure 2 feet. Alongside of her was lashd another like her in all parts but less in proportion being only 33 feet in her extreme lengh.
The form of these Canoes is better to be expressd by a drawing than by any description.

Illustration by Banks.

This annexd may serve to give some Idea of a section: aa is the first seam, hh the second, cc the third.
The first stage or keel under aa is made of trees hollowd out like a trough for the longest trees they can get, (4) so that 2 or three make the bottom of their largest boats (some of which ...

Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).
2. i.e. pp. 316 above, and 368 below.

3. "pahi." The people of Raiatea were the great canoe-builders of the Society group.
The description which Banks proceeds to give is more detailed than anything in Cook.

4. The timbers used for canoe-building were mainly Faifai ("Serianthes myriadenia") a large valley-growing tree, a favourite for "pahi"; the Uru or breadfruit, and the Hutu ("Barringtonia speciosa")- for which last see Pl. V.

Page 320

... are much larger than that describd here as I make a rule to describe every thing of this kind from the common size); the next stage under bb is formd of streght plank about 4- feet long and 15 inches broad and 2 inches thick; the next stage under cc is made like the bottom of trunks of trees hollowd into its bilging form; the last or that above cc is formd also out of trunks of trees so that the moulding is of one peice with the plank.
This work dificult as it would be to an Europrean with his Iron tools they perform without Iron and with amazing dexterity; they hollow with their stone axes as fast at least as our Carpenters could do and dubb tho slowly with prodigious nicety; I have seen them take off a skin of an angular plank without missing a stroke, the skin itself scarce 1/16 part of an inch in thickness.
Boring the holes throug[h] which their sewing is to pass seems to be their greatest dificulty.
Their tools are made of the bones of men, generaly the thin bone of the upper arm; these they grind very sharp and fix to a handle of wood, making the instrument serve the purpose of a gouge by striking it with a mallet made of a hard black wood, (1) and with them would do as much work as with Iron tools was it not that the brittle Edge of the tool is very liable to be broke.

When they have prepard their planks &c. the keel is layd on blocks and the whole Canoe put together much in the same manner as we do a ship, the sides being supported by stantions and all the seams wedg'd together before the last sewing is put on, so that they become tolerably tight considering that they are without calking. (2)

With these boats they venture themselves out of sight of land; we saw several of them'at Otahite which had come from Ulhietea and Tupia has told us that they go voyages of twenty days, whether true or false I do not affirm.
They keep them very carefully under such boathouses as are describd p. , (3) one of which we measurd today 60 yards by 11.

Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).
1. Toa or ironwood.

2. This is evidently a mistake.
Caulking was done with fine coconut fibre and the adhesive sap of the breadfruit used as pitch; but Banks probably did not see the process.

3. p. 316 above.

Volume 1, Pages 333 - 36
14th August 1769
Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).

Overview
Page 333

We have now seen 17 Islands in these Seas and been ashore upon 5 of the most principal ones.
Of these the Language manners and customs have agreed almost exactly, I should therefore be tempted to conclude that those of the Islands we have not seen differ not materialy at least from them.
The account I shall give of them is taken cheifly from Otahite where I was well acquainted with their most interior policy,

Tahitian Carpentry
Pages 363 -364

Page 363

In their carpenters, joiners and stone cutters work &c. they are almost as little obligd to the use of
tools as in making these hooks: an axe of Stone in the shape of an adze, a chisel or gouge made of a
human bone, a file or rasp of Coral, skin of Sting rays, and coral sand to polish with, are a sufficient
set of tools for building a house and furnishing it with boats, as well as for quarrying and squaring
stones for the pavement of any thing which may require it in the neighbourhood.
Their stone axes are made of a black stone not very hard but tolerably tough;(1) they are of different sizes, some that are intended for felling weigh 3 or 4 Pounds, others which are usd only for carving not so many ounces.
Whatever these tools want in goodness is made up by the industry of the people who use
them.
Felling a tree is their greatest labour, a large one requires many hands to assist and some days
before it can be finishd, but when once it is down they manage it with far greater dexterity than is
credible to an Europrean.
If it is to be made into boards they put wedges into it, and drive them with such dexterity (as they have told me - for I never saw it) that they divide it into slabs of 3 or 4 inches in thickness, seldom meeting with an accident if the tree is good.
These slabs they very soon dubb down with their axes to any given thinness; in this work they certainly excell; indeed their tools are better adaptd for it than any other performance; I have seen them dubb of the first rough coat of a plank at least as fast as one of our carpenters could have done it; and in hollowing, where they have liberty to raise large floors of the wood, they certainly work quicker, owing to ...

Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).
1. These adzes (and other stone tools very often) were made from a black dolerite found on the island of Maurua (modern Maupiti) 24 miles west of Borabora, where there was a sort of quarry which supplied the whole of the Society Islands with the valued material.

Page 364

... the weight of their tools: those who are masters of this business, .will take of a surprizing thin coat from a whole plank, without  missing a stroke; they can also work upon a peice of wood of any shape as well as they can upon a flat one, for in making their canoes every peice is formd first into its proper shape, bilging or flat: for as they never bend a Plank all the bilging peices must be shap'd by hand which is done intirely with axes.
They have small axes for carving also but all their carvd work was so bad and in so very mean a taste that it scarce deservd that name.
Yet they love much to have carvd work and figures stuck about their canoes, the great ones especialy, which generaly have a figure of a man at the head and another at the stern of them.
Their marai's also are ornamented with different kinds of figures, one sort of which represent many men standing on Each others heads; they have also the figures of animals, and Planks whose faces are carvd in patterns of squares and circles &c. but every part of their carving is in an equaly bad taste.
All their work however acquires a certain neatness in the finishing for they polish every thing, even the side of a canoe or a Post of a house, with Coral sand rubbd on in the outer husk of a Cocoa nut and rays skin, which makes them very smooth and neat.

Tahitian Paddles, Bailing and Canoe Surf Skills.
Pages 366 - 367

Page 366

These boats are paddled along with large paddles which have a long handle and a flat blade resembling more than any thing I recollect a Bakers peel; (2) of these generaly every one in the boat ...

Notation by J.C. Beaglehole (1967).
2. The shovel used to place bread in the oven and withdraw it.

Page 367

... has one except those who set under the houses and with these they push themselves on pretty fast through the water.
They are so leaky however that one person at least is employd almost constantly in throwing out the water.
The only thing in which they excell is landing in a surf, for by reason of their great lengh and high sterns they would land dry in a surf when our boats could scarcely land at all, and in the same manner put off from the shore as I have often experienc'd.

Weather Prediction and Navigation.
Page 368

The people excell much in predicting the weather, a circumstance of great use to them in their short voyages from Island to Island.

'They have many various ways of doing this but one only that I know of which I never heard of being practisd by Europreans, that is foretelling the quarter of the heavens from whence the wind shall blow by observing the Milky Way, which is generaly bent in an arch either one way or the other: this arch they conceive as already acted upon by the wind, which is the cause of its curving, and say that if the same curve continues a whole night the wind predicted by it seldom fails to come some time in the next day; and in this as well as their other predictions we found them indeed not infallible but far more clever than Europreans.

In their longer Voyages they steer in the day by the Sun and in the night by the Stars.
Of these they know a very large part by their Names and the clever ones among them will tell in what part of the heavens they are to be seen in any month when they are above their horizon; they know also the time of their annual appearing and disapearing to a great nicety, far greater than would be easily beleivd by an Europrean astronomer.

Spatial Measurement
Pages 369 - 370

Page 369

In measures of space they are very poor, indeed one fathom and ten fathoms are the only terms I have heard among them; by these they convey the size of any thing as a house, a boat, depth of the sea &c; but when they speak of distances from one place to ...

Page 370

... another they have no way but time of making themselves understood, but by the number of days it takes them in their canoes to go the distance.

... much in lengh, I have measurd them from 10 ft to 72, but by no means proportionaly in breadth, for that of 10 feet was about I in breadth and that of 72 scarce 2, nor is their hight increasd in a much greater proportion.
They may be subdivided into three sorts, the fighting ivahah, the common sailing or fishing ivahah, and the traveling ivahah.
The fighting ivahah is by far the largest; the head and stern of these boats are considerably raisd above the body of them in a semicircular form, the latter especialy which is 17 or 18 feet in hight when the body of the boat is scarcely 3.
These boats never go to sea singly: two are always fastned together side by side at the distance of about 2 feet by strong poles of wood [which] go across them, and upon them is built a stage in the fore part, about 10 or 12 feet long and a little broader than the two boats; this is supported by pillars about 6 feet high and upon it stand the people who fight with slings, spears &c; below are the rowers who are much less engagd in the battle on account of their confind situation but who receive the wounded from the stage and furnish fresh men to ascend in their room. This much from description for I never saw any of their battles.
The Sailing and fishing ivahahs vary in size from about 40 feet in lengh to the smallest I have mentiond, but those which are under 25 feet in lengh seldom or never carry sail; their Sterns only are raisd and those not above 4 or 5 feet; their heads are quite flat and have a flat board projecting forwards beyond them about 4 feet.
Those which I have calld traveling ivahas differ from these in nothing but their being constantly joind 2 and 2 together in the same manner as the fighting ones, and having a small neat house 5 or 6 feet broad and 7 or 8 long fastned upon the fore part of them, in which the principal people, who use them very much, set when they are carried from place to place.
The sailing ivahas have also sometimes this house upon them when they are joind two and two together, which is but seldom however; indeed the difference between these two consists almost intirely in the rigging, and I have divided them into two more because they are generaly seen employd in very different occupations than from any real difference in their built.
All ivahas however agree in that they are built wall sided and with flat bottoms, in which they differ from the Pahie fig. II: whose sides are built rounding out, or bilging as it is calld, and her bottom sharp which answers in some measure instead of a Keel.
These Pahies differ very much in size.
I have seen them from 60 to 30 feet in lenght but like the ivahas they are very narrow in proportion to their lengh: one that I measurd was 51 feet in length, ...

Page 367

... has one except those who set under the houses and with these they push themselves on pretty fast through the water.
They are so leaky however that one person at least is employd almost constantly in throwing out the water.
The only thing in which they excell is landing in a surf, for by reason of their great lengh and high sterns they would land dry in a surf when our boats could scarcely land at all, and in the same manner put off from the shore as I have often experienc'd.
When fitted for sailing they have either one or two Masts fitted to a frame which is above the canoe; they are made of a single stick; in one that I measurd of 32 feet in lengh the mast was 25 ft high which seems to me to be about the common proportion.
To this is fastned a sail of about one third longer but narrow, of a triangular shape, pointed at the top and the outside curvd; it is borderd all round with a frame of wood and has no contrivance either for reefing or furling, so that in case of bad weather it must be intirely cut away, but I fancy in these moderate climates they are seldom brought to this necessity; the material of which it is made is universaly Matting.
With these sails their Canoes go at a very good rate and lay very near the wind, probably on account of their sail being borderd with wood which makes them stand better than any bowlines could possible do.
On the top of this sail they carry an ornament which in taste resembles much our Pennants, it is made of feathers and reaches down to the very water so that when blown out by the wind it makes no inconsiderable shew.
They are indeed fond of ornaments in all parts of their boats; they commonly in the good ones have a figure at the stern; in the Paheis which rise rounding both at the head and stern they have a figure at both, and the smaller ivahas have commonly a small carvd pillar standing upon their stern.

Considering these people as intirely destitute of Iron they build these Canoes very well.
Of the Ivahas the foundation is always the trunks of one or more trees, hollowd out; the ends of these are Slopd off, and sewd together with the fibres of the Husk of the cocoanut; the sides of them are then raisd with plank, sewd together in the same manner.
The Paheis as they are much better embarkations so they are built in a more ingenious manner.
Like the others they are laid upon a long keel which however is not above 4 or 5 inches deep; upon this they raise with two ranges of Plank each of which is about 18 inches high and about 4 feet in lengh.
Such a number of peices must necessarily be framd and fitted together before they are sewd and this they do very dexterously, supporting ...

1963  Banks, Joseph :  The Endeavour Journal of Joseph Banks 1768 - 1771  Volume I Edited by J. C. Beaglehole  The Trustees of the Public Library of New South Wales  in Association with Angus and Robertson  89 Castlereagh Street, Sydney.  Second Edition 1963. . First published February 1962.  Review Tahitian surfriding, page 283, Tahitian canoe construction pages 319 - 320,  Tahitian carpentry pages 363 - 364.       Image courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

1963  Cook, Captain James :  The Voyage of the Resolution and Discovery Endeavour Journal of Joseph Banks 1768 - 1771  Volume II.  Edited by J. C. Beaglehole  The Trustees of the Public Library of New South Wales  in Association with Angus and Robertson 89 Castlereagh Street, Sydney.  Second Edition 1963.  First published February 1962. Review           Image courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

2000 Robson, John : Captain Cook's World -  Maps of the life and Voyages of James Cook R. N. Random House New Zealand 18 Polard Road, Glenfield, Auckland, New Zealand. 2000 Text and Maps by John Robson. Hard cover, 212 pages, extensive duo tone maps. Review Although not a finely detailed account of Cook's life, it is unique in the wealth of information in the form of maps. They give a wonderful geographical context to Cook's voyages that is simply not possible from the many written accounts. Image courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

1930/1996 Mackenzie, Donald A. : South Seas : Myths and Legends Senate, Random House UK Ltd. Random House, 20 Vauxhall Bridge Road, London SW1V 2SA. Soft cover, 380 pages, black and white photographs and illustrations. First Published in 1930 as Myths and Traditions of the South Sea Islands The Gresham Publishing Company Ltd., London. Review         Image courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

This is a literal transcription of Cook's Journal, preserved by the National Library of Australia as Manuscript 1. Cook generally recorded events during the Endeavour voyage on a daily basis.
He also wrote detailed descriptions of the places and peoples encountered in the course of the voyage.
Cook
Notes on Tahiti (King Georges Island)
Page 38
 

 This Note to follow the discriptions of Ulietea &Ca     Tupia informs us that in the Months of November, December and Janry they have constant Westerly winds with rain — and they know very will how to take the Advantage of these winds in their Navigations

http://southseas.nla.gov.au/journals/cook_remarks/038.html

On 3rd July 2006, while browsing my local library for books on early Christian history, I pulled Donald A. Mackenzie's South Seas : Myths and Legends (1930/1996) from the shelf (Dewey : 291.13 MACK).
I had previously examined a copy of this book (provided by John McInnes, who noted the dramatic cover illustration of canoe-surfing) but was unable to date the illustration or detect any relevant data for my research.
The second copy (literally ?) fell open at page 7 - Joseph Banks' account of Tahitian carpentry, circa 1770.
Attached below.

Unfortunately the only reference for the quotation was E. Best, The Stone Implements of the Maori, Bulletin No. 4, Dominion Museum, Wellington (N. Z.) 1912, pp 154 et seq.
I immediately went to Mr. Geoffrey Hadrill at the Reference Desk, told him of my problem and was delighted to be provided from the stack with Banks' Journal in Two Volumes (1963).

That evening I searched Banks and located the quotation (entered on 14th August 1769) on pages 363 -364.
Satisfied with this discovery, I retired for the evening but continued to browse Bank's Journal..
Twenty minutes later I read Banks' account of Tahitian surf-riding of 29th May 1769.
Too excited  to sleep, I booted up the computer, ran the relevant sections through the scanner OCR program and began to compile this entry.
This took several hours and I was able to get to sleep sometime after 3.30 am.

The next morning my excitement was severely modified by the realization that it was highly unlikely that I was the first researcher to "discover" Banks' account.
Initially, I recollected the publication of a magazine article on the development of Tahitian surfing.
However the item is relatively rare/obsure, I did not have a copy and I don't read French.
A search of "Joseph Banks surfing" at google.com gave two specific results ...

1. Chris Jones' web page Captain Cook, notes ...
"the botanist Joseph Banks described the first recorded instance of ‘surfing’ in his journal."
http://www.herriotcountry.com/content/captaincook/captaincook.php
The report is linked to a dated entry (29th May 1769) that both paraphrases and directly quotes Banks' account.

2. Peter Robinson's excellent online British Surfing Museum reports ...
"1769 - Captain James Cook sees canoe surfing in Tahiti and Joseph Banks writes about it in his diaries."
and
"1777 - Cook returned to Tahiti and again saw wave riding."
http://www.thesurfingmuseum.co.uk/history_1899.asp#
It is unclear whether these reports only refer to canoe surfing and (unlike Cook's 1788 report) they are not referenced.

Further online searches located only one other report - without references and clearly contentious  ...
"The origin of surfing is Polynesian, although this sport became more popular further North, in Hawaii.
Explorers' stories, particularly Cook's, already mentioned this sport practiced by the Maohis in 1767 (sic. Cook's first voyage left England in August, 1768), while laying on a board: it was the ancestor of body boarding.
(it was only in the early 20th century than some American had the strange idea to stand up on the board.)"
http://www.tahitiguide.com/@en-us/8/28/89/article.asp
Credited as "This page is presented by our partner SURFING SCHOOL TURA'I MATAARE of TAHITI"

On the 9th July 2006, this page was uploaded to surfresearch.com.au and copies forwarded by email to Chris Jones and Peter Robinson.

John Ewell wrote in response to the above article, July 2006.

Geoff..

I always like to read your commentaries like the one Joe Tabler sent out on surfing in Tahiti.

Back in the 50's I had the pleasure to see Ben Finney's map with colored pins on all the places in Oceana where his graduate research indicated surfing. There were numerous markers throughout Oceania. In my own travels years ago there was an old ink sketch in a museum in Rarotonga showing a surfboard. I did not see a date or the artist's name.

Most interesting is a book I have on Captain Cook, Captain James Cook, In the Pacific as told by selections on his own journals, published by one of my most favorite publishers, the Griffin Press,  in Adelide, South Australia. This book gives Cook a more honest view than American publications. Of importance in this book is a fact that I did not know; that is, the Spanish found Hawaii before Cook and kept it secret as it was on their way to their gold route to the Phillipines.

You are a very good reseacher, and I wonder if the Spanish saw surfing before Cook?
The problem is to get in the Spanish archives to see these records. It is entirely possible that if they were there....they witnessed surfing.

I would enjoy your comments and opinion. John Elwell

I replied directly ...
John,
Thank you for your insightful comments, they definitely require further research.

A few comments of the top of my head (and undated) ...
Tahiti was visited/discovered by the Spanish, French and British (and maybe others) before Cook.

Note that "discovery" is probably applicable only if the location is correctly calculated - so that others can find it later.
One of Cook's many achievements was effectively mapping the Pacific and correcting previous explorers' significant errors

The Spanish visited very early, apparently kept their "discovery" quiet and probably had very little interest in local culture.
It is probably unlikely there is readily accessible documentation, let alone a source that would be productive.

The French (Bouganville sp?) were the next visitors and there is a journal of the voyage.
Ideally this should be examined by someone who can read the original French (not me).

The English visited Tahiti in the Dolphin and by confirming its position the British Admiralty were able to prepare for Cook's expedition to record the Transit of Venus.
This visit was, for a significant period, confrontational.

Banks' journal is significant because it is primarily concentrates on scientific and cultural matters.
His (and Solander's) contribution to the study of botany was immense and had a huge impact in Europe of the time.
Many contemporary commentators saw Banks as the hero of the voyage, and not Cook.
Banks also had a huge influence on Cook (scientifically, culturally and literary) and the subsequent voyages were furnished with scientists and artists, for example John Webber.

Yesterday I accessed Cook's Journal (Beaglehole, 1967) and have confirmed that Cook and Solander accompanied Banks on the return to the beached pinnace ("stay'd with them (local Tahitians) till near noon ... got to the Fort  late in the evening" Page 96)  when surf-riding is reported.
Despite many early sections of his journal being sourced from Banks, Cook does not mention the surf-riding.

Thank you again - Geoff Cater.

The Death of Captain Cook and Other Writings by David Samwell
Nicholas Thomas , Martin Fitzpatrick , Jenny Newell ,
0708319688, University of Wales Press, July 2006, 180pp, HB
"The Voyages of Captain Cook have been endlessly fascinating to a wide audience, and no aspect of them has been more controversial than Cook’s death. This book reprints one of the classic accounts of this episode, the vivid and lively narrative by one of the voyage surgeons, David Samwell. This book not only makes Samwell’s ‘Narrative of the Death of Captain James Cook’ readily available for the first time, but presents it with Samwell’s previously unpublished letters relating to Cook’s third voyage, and his poetry."
http://www.unireps.com.au/isbn/0708319688.htm

Bowen EG. David Samwell.
Cardiff: University of Wales Press, 1974.

Samwell D quoted by Beaglehole JC (1974). The life of Captain James Cook.
London: A&C Black, 1781: 500.

Samwell, David: Captain Cook and Hawaii  - A narrative by David Samwell.
1957 - Reprint of 1786 edition
Francis Edwards, London;David Magee, San Francisco 42 pages

ALSO
http://pages.quicksilver.net.nz/jcr/~historical.html

Extra 34a. The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery / The Voyage of the Endeavour 1768-1771  / Edited by J. C. Beaglehole / 1955. Reprinted, with addenda and corrigenda, 1968. Pages cclxxxiv, 684/696 + 20 maps, 25 illustrations.

Admiralty instructions and the journal of the First Voyage, with many appendices.

Extra 34b. The Journals of Captain James Cook ... / Charts & Views / Drawn by Cook and his Officers and Reproduced from the Original Manuscripts / edited by R. A. Skelton / 1955, second edition 1969. Pages viii + 58 loose maps, charts, plans, profiles, views and other illustrations.

A separate and unnumbered portfolio containing reproductions of charts and views drawn on the three voyages, with a list.

Extra 35. The Journals of Captain James Cook ... / The Voyage of the Resolution and Adventure 1772-1775 / ... / 1961. Reprinted, with addenda and corrigenda, 1969. Pages clxx, 1021/1028 + 19 maps, 63 illustrations. Half-title gives II as number within the set.

Admiralty instructions and the journal of the Second Voyage, with many appendices.

Extra 36a. The Journals of Captain James Cook ... / The Voyage of the Resolution and Discovery 1776-1780 / ... / Part One / 1967. Pages ccxxiv, 718 + 17 maps, 64 illustrations. Half-title gives III as number within set. Admiralty instructions and the journal of the Third Voyage, with supplementary extracts from journals or logs by James King, Charles Clerke, James Burney, Richard Gilbert, Thomas Edgar.

The main pagination of this and the following volume is continuous. For a separate addendum, see Occasional Booklet 8 below.

Extra 36b. The Journals of Captain James Cook ... 1776-1780 / Part Two / 1967. Pages viii, 723-1647 + 2 maps, 10 illustrations. Half-title gives III as number within set. Appendices containing the journals of William Anderson and David Samwell; extracts from other journals; rolls of the ships' companies, and a calendar of documents, 1774-1791.

A separate pamphlet, Cook and the Russians, consisting of six documents translated from Russian sources, edited by J. C. Beaglehole, was published in 1973 as an addendum to this volume.

Extra 37. The Life of Captain James Cook / by J. C. Beaglehole / 1974. Pages xi, 760 + 11 maps, 38 illustrations.

First separately published by A. and C. Black, 1974, then for the Hakluyt Society.

surfresearch.com.au

---

 AN ACCOUNT OF THE VOYAGES UNDERTAKEN BY THE ORDER OF HIS PRESENT MAJESTY FOR MAKING Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere,
And successively performed by
COMMODORE BYRON, CAPTAIN CARTERET,
CAPTAIN WALLIS, And CAPTAIN COOK,
In the DOLPHIN, the SWALLOW, and the ENDEAVOUR:
DRAWN UP
From the JOURNALS which were kept by the several COMMANDERS,
And from the Papers of JOSEPH BANKS, Esq;
By JOHN HAWKESWORTH, LL.D.
IN THREE VOLUMES.
Vol. I
Illustrated with CUTS, and a great Variety of CHARTS and MAPS relative to
Countries now first discovered, or hitherto but imperfectly known.
LONDON;
Printed for W. STRAHAN; and T. CADELL in the Strand.
M DCC LXXIII.

http://southseas.nla.gov.au/journals/hv01/about.html

 As bibliographer Ronald L. Ravneberg has pointed out, the first edition of the Voyages has inconsistencies in pagination and errors caused by the typesetting of volume one being started at two points and by volumes two and three originally being paginated as a single volume.
In this online edition these original erroneous pagination and errors have been preserved as an aid to researchers wishing to consult the printed text of the first edition.

"As bibliographer Ronald L. Ravneberg has pointed out, the first edition of the Voyages has
inconsistencies in pagination and errors caused by the typesetting of volume one being started at two
points and by volumes two and three originally being paginated as a single volume.
In this online edition these original erroneous pagination and errors have been preserved as an aid to
researchers wishing to consult the printed text of the first edition."
http://southseas.nla.gov.au/journals/hv01/about.html

http://southseas.nla.gov.au/journals/hv23/135.html

This is a literal transcription of Cook's Journal, preserved by the National Library of Australia as Manuscript 1. Cook generally recorded events during the Endeavour voyage on a daily basis.
He also wrote detailed descriptions of the places and peoples encountered in the course of the voyage.
Cook
Notes on Tahiti (King Georges Island)
Page 38
 

 This Note to follow the discriptions of Ulietea &Ca     Tupia informs us that in the Months of November, December and Janry they have constant Westerly winds with rain — and they know very will how to take the Advantage of these winds in their Navigations

http://southseas.nla.gov.au/journals/cook_remarks/038.html

Dear sir,
I have only recently obtained a copy of your excellent Hell and Paradise (1986) and congratulate your on the manner in which you have successfully blended the three main themes into a coherent narrative.

My personal interest is the history of surfriding and I initially consulted the book in attempting to expand on a report noted in the Sydney Morning Herald (1 December 1911) that the North Steyne Club's annual carnival would include an exhibition of surf-shooting given by Mr. L. Bouffett, of Norfolk Island.
Currently, I assume Mr L. Bouffett was probably a decendant of John Buffett and thus a representative of the Pitcairn Island's renowned surfriders.

Please note that while it may have appeared to be the case, circa 1986, that "Captain Cook had reported that surfing was unknown even in Tahiti" and your subsequent assesment that the Pitcairn Islanders "appear to have developed surfing spontaneously" (page 91, adjusted) recent research has significantly enhanced the understanding of the spread of surfriding throughout Polynesia.

Firstly, Cook himself does not appear to have directly commented on surfing and most of the comments usually attributed to him are from members of his crew that were transposed by the various editors of the journals.

The earliest report of surfing appears to be reported by Joseph Banks in Tahiti on 28th May 1769:
"In our return to the boat we saw the Indians amuse or excersise themselves in a manner truly surprizing.
It was in a place where the shore was not guarded by a reef as is usualy the case, consequently a
high surf fell upon the shore, a more dreadfull one I have not often seen: no European boat could
have landed in it and I think no Europaean who had by any means got into [it] could possibly have
saved his life as the shore was coverd with pebbles and large stones.
In the midst of these breakers 10 or 12 Indians were swimming who whenever a surf broke near
them divd under it with infinite ease, rising up on the other side; but their chief amusement was
carried on by the stern of an old canoe, with this before them they swam out (8) as far as the
outermost breach, then one or two would get into it and opposing the blunt end to the
breaking wave were hurried in with incredible swiftness.
Sometimes they were carried almost ashore but generaly the wave broke over them before they were
half way, in which case the[y] divd and quickly rose on the other side with the canoe in their
hands, which was towd/(swam) out again and the same method repeated.
We stood admiring this very wonderfull scene for full half an hour, in which time no one of the actors
atempted to come ashore but all seemd most highly entertaind with their strange diversion."
The Endeavour Journal of Joseph Banks 1768 - 1771
Edited by J. C. Beaglehole
The Trustees of the Public Library of New South Wales
Sydney, 1962.
Volume 1, Journal, pages 258-259.

Michael Organ and A.P. Doyle, January 1995

http://www.uow.edu.au/~morgan/ilchron1.htm

1770
April Wednesday 25 - Saturday 28: Captain Cook and the bark Endeavour sail by the coast of Illawarra.
An attempt is made to land near Woonona between 2-5pm on Saturday, the 28th, but the longboat is driven back by heavy surf.
A Coastal profile of Port Kembla, Wollongong and north to Corrimal is drawn by Sidney Parkinson, and geographical features such as Red Point and Hat Hill are identified, whilst Aborigines, their fires and canoes are also seen
{Beaglehole, 1955 & 1962; Beale, RAHS, August 1964; Organ, 1991 & 1993} 

25 April 1770

Wednesday 25th In the PM had a fresh breeze at NW untill 3 oClock at which time it came to WSW west and we tack'd and stood to the Northward. At 5 oClock being about 5 or 6 Leags from the land. the Pigeon house bearing WSW distant 9 Leagues   Sounded and had 86 fathom water, At 8 oClock being very squaly with lightning we Close reef'd the topsails and brought too being then in 120 fathom water. At 3 AM we made sail again to the northward having the advantage of a fresh gale at SW. At Noon we were ^about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the Latde of 34°..22' and Longitude 208°.. 49' 36' West. Course and distance Saild sence yesterday noon is NBE 49 Miles. In the Course of this days run we saw the smook of fire in severl places near the sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the northward of Cape St George       the Shore seems to form a bay which appeard to be shelterd from the NE winds but as we had the wind it was not in my power to look into it and the appearence was not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. the north point of this bay on account of its figure I named Long Nose, Latitude 35°..4' So 8 Leagues to the northward of this is a point which I calld rRed point, some part of the land about it appeared of that colour / Latitude 34°..29' Longde 208°..49' / a little way in land to the NW of this point is a round hill the top of which look'd like the Crown of a hatt —

26 April 1770

Thursday 26th Clear Serene weather. In the PM had a light breeze at NNW untill 5 oClock at which time it fell calm we being then about 3 or 4 Leags from the land and in 48 fathom water. Variation pr Azimuth 8..48 East ^the extremes of the land from NEBN to SWBS  Saw several smooks along shore before dark and two or 3 times afire in the night. we lay becalm'd driving in before the Sea untill 1 oClock AM at which time we got a breeze from the land with which we steer'd NE being then ^in 38 fathom water - At Noon it fell little wind and Veerd to NEBN, we being than in the Latitude of 34°..10' and Longitude 208°.27' Wt and about 5 Leags from the land which extended from S-37° Wt to N1/2E. In this Latitude are some white clifts which rise perpendicularly from the sea to a moderate height

27 April 1770

Friday 27th Variable light airs between the NE and NW clear pleasent weather. In the PM stood off shore untill 2 oClock than tack'd and stood in untill 6 at which time we tack'd and stood off being then in 54 fathoms water and about 4 or 5 Miles from the land  the extremes of which bore from So 28° West to N. 25°.30' East. At 12 oClock we tackd and stood in untill 4 AM than made a trip off untill day light after which we stood in for the land, in all this time we lost ground owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds for at Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 34°..21', Red Point bearing So 27 Wt distant 3 Leagues. in this situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land which extended from So 19°..30' West to North 29° East —

28 April 1770

Saturday 28th In the PM hoisted out the Pinnace and yawl in order to attempt a landing but the Pinnace took in the water so fast that she was obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes - At this time we saw several people a shore four of whome where carrying a small boat or Canoe which we imagined they were going to but into the water in order to come off to us but in this ^we were mistaken    Being now not above two Miles from the Shore Mr Banks Dr Solander Tupia and myself put off in the yawl and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw four or five of the natives who took to the woods as we approachd the Shore which disapointed us in our ^the expectation we had of getting a near view of them if not to speak to them but our disapointment ^was heighten'd when we found that we no where could effect a landing by reason of the great surff which beat every where upon the shore - we saw hauld up upon the beach 3 or 4 small Canoes which to us appear'd not much unlike the small ones of New Zeland, in the woods were several trees of the Palm kind and no under wood and this was all we were able to observe of the country from the boat after which we returnd to the Ship about 5 in the evening. at this time it fell calm and we were not above a mile and a half from shore ^in a 11 fathom water and within some breakers that lay to the southward of us    but luckily a light breeze came off from the land which carried us out of danger and with which we stood to the northward    At day light in the morning we discover'd a Bay which appeard to be tollerably well shelterd from all winds into which I resoloved to go with the Ship and with this view sent the Master in the Pinnace to sound the entrance while we kept turning up with the Ship haveing the wind right out   At Noon the entran[c]e bore NNW distance 1 Mile — 

27. The Countrey today again made in slopes to the sea coverd with wood of a tolerable growth tho not so large as some we have seen. At noon we were very near it; one fire only was in sight. Some bodies of 3 feet long and half as broad floated very boyant past the ship; they were supposd to be cuttle bones which indeed they a good deal resembled but for their enormous size. After dinner the Captn proposd to hoist out boats and attempt to land, which gave me no small satisfaction; it was done accordingly but the Pinnace on being lowerd down into the water was found so leaky that it was impracticable to attempt it. Four men were at this time observd walking briskly along the shore, two of which carried on their shoulders a small canoe; they did not however attempt to put her in the water so we soon lost all hopes of their intending to come off to us, a thought with which we once had flatterd ourselves. To see something of them however we resolvd and the Yawl, a boat just capable of carrying the Captn, Dr Solander, myself and 4 rowers was accordingly prepard. They sat on the rocks expecting us but when we came within about a quarter of a mile they ran away hastily into the countrey; they appeard to us as well as we could judge at that distance exceedingly black. Near the place were four small canoes which they left behind. The surf was too great to permit us with a single boat and that so small to attempt to land, so we were obligd to content ourselves with gazing from the boat at the productions of nature which we so much wishd to enjoy a nearer acquaintance with. The trees were not very large and stood seperate from each other without the least underwood; among them we could discern many cabbage trees but nothing else which we could call by any name. In the course of the night many fires were seen. 

On the 27th, in the morning, the wind being against us, we stood off and on shore. At noon, being about one mile from land, some of our men were sent on shore in a boat, which soon returned, not being able to land for the surf, which which ran very high all along the coast. They espied three men, sitting on the beach, who were naked, and of a very dark colour; but, on the boat’s approaching nearer toward them, they fled into the woods. Our people also discovered several canoes drawn upon the beach, and a kind of house or wig-warn adjacent. We also, from the ship, saw five men walking, two of whom carried a canoe on their shoulders. The country looked very pleasant and fertile; and the trees, quite free from underwood, appeared like plantations in a gentleman’s park.

The extremities of the land bore from S. 28 W. to N. 25° 30 E. We now tacked and stood off till twelve, then tacked and stood in again till four in the morning, when we made a trip off till daylight; and during all this time we lost ground, owing to the variableness of the winds. We continued at the distance of between four and five miles from the shore, till the afternoon, when we came within two miles, and I then hoisted out the pinnace and yawl to attempt a landing, but the pinnace proved to be so leaky that I was obliged to hoist her in again. At this time we saw several of the natives walking briskly along the shore, four of whom carried a small canoe upon their shoulders: we flattered ourselves that they were going to put her into the water, and come off to the ship, but finding ourselves disappointed, I determined to go on shore in the yawl, with as many as it would carry: I embarked therefore, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and four rowers: we pulled for that part of the shore where the Indians appeared, near which four small canoes were lying at the The Indians sat down upon the rocks, and seemed to wait for our landing; but to our great regret, when we came within about a quarter of a mile, they ran away into the woods: we determined however to go ashore, and endeavour to procure an interview, but in this we were again disappointed, for we found so great a surf beating upon every part of the beach, that landing with our little boat was altogether impracticable: we were therefore obliged to be content with gazing at such objects as presented themselves from the water: the canoes, upon a near view, seemed very much to resemble those of the smaller sort at New Zealand. We observed, that among the trees on shore, which were not very large, there was no underwood; and could distinguish that many of them were of the palm kind, and some of them cabbage trees: after many a wishful look we were obliged to return, with our curiosity rather excited than satisfied, and about five in the evening got on board the ship. About this time it fell calm, and our situation was by no means agreeable: we were now not more than a mile and a half from the shore, and within some breakers, which lay to the southward; but happily a light breeze came off the land, and carried us out of danger: with this breeze we stood to the northward, and at day-break we discovered a bay, which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and into which therefore I determined to go with the ship.

29 April 1770

Sunday 29th In the PM winds southerly and clear weather with which we stood into the bay and Anchor'd under the South shore about 2 Mile within the entrence in 6 fathoms water, the south point bearing SE          and the north point ^East, Saw as we came in on both points of the bay Several of the natives and afew hutts, Men women and children on the south shore abreast of the Ship to which place I went in the boats in hopes of speaking with them accompaned by Mr Banks Dr Solander and Tupia- as we approached the shore they all made off except two Men who seem'd resolved to oppose our landing - as soon as I saw this I orderd the boats to lay upon their oars in order to speake to them but this was to little purpose for neither us nor Tupia could understand one word they said.   we then threw them some nails beeds &Ca a shore which they took up and seem'd not ill pleased with in so much that I thout that they beckon'd to us to come a shore but in this we were mistaken for as soon as we put the boat in they again came to oppose us    upon which I fired a musket between the two which had no other effect than to make them retire back where bundles of thier darts lay and one of them took up a stone and threw at us which caused my fireing a second Musquet load with small shott and altho' some of the shott struck the man yet it had no other effect than to make him lay hold of a ^Shield or target ^to defend himself    emmediatly after this we landed which we had no sooner done than they throw'd two darts at us  this obliged me to fire a third shott soon after which they both made off, but not in such haste but what we might have taken one, but Mr Banks being of opinion that the darts were poisoned made me cautious how I advanced into the woods - We found here a few Small hutts made of the bark of trees in one of which were four or five small children with whome we left some strings of beeds &Ca    a quantity of darts lay about the hutts these we took away with us - three Canoes lay upon the bea[c]h the worst I think I ever saw   they were about 10 12 or 14 feet long made of one peice of the bark of a tree drawn or tied up at each end and the middle kept open by means of peices of sticks by way of Thwarts —