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mctavish
: malibu revival, 1977
|
Is the big board faster?
It's a case of float or fly.
When you need the float, the big
board
is faster; when there's the power to fly, the small board is
faster.
SURFER Magazine -"Wide boards
(21" and
over) give more glide and stability.
Compare them to birds that soar;
e.g,
pelicans and eagles.
The pelican can coast on the
slightest
updraft from the smallest wave, while seagulls, who have
narrow wings,
can't glide until the surf is larger.
It's the same for wide vs, narrow
boards.
Average surf ridden calls for
wider
boards." - Skip Frye,
Fair enough?
Midget called it high-speed stall
and
low-speed stall, after hang-gliding a while.
Hang-gliding - hanging on the
nose,
and gliding under section after section.
A nice way to spend a windy
afternoon,
Which brings us to the trimmings.
Apart from getting you going
better
in weak waves, you've got the arts of trimming and noseriding.
True trimming is almost a lost art
- or was till the recent upsurge in big-board use.
Trimming is getting the maximum
efficiency
from a situation; balancing the available variables to make
the section
you're in, and the one after it, and hopefully after that.
It's a very satisfying feeling to
get
the most from it in a delicate and graceful way.
We all know what noseriding is - but have you experienced the in-the-tube, high-speed noseride only available on the big board? It's not the mushy, painful thing the short board delivers.
Or the nose trim.
Going for maximum speed with your
whole
board hanging behind you in the tube, laying as much planing
area as possible
on the face - very thrilling, and in surf that most people
drive right
by ...just a couple of feet high, and maybe quite sloppy.
Another thing the big board can
do -
pendulum - you have to swing it to turn it, and you can
counterbalance
your weight against the board's momentum while swinging
it, and put
yourself in some radical situations.
Also, the pendulum effect gives a
kind
of rhythm - a beautiful thing that takes many years to
perfect, and simply
cannot be faked.
The bad
points?
Well, they're limited. True, they can turn slop into surf, but they cannot do anything for sizable real surf. Limited arc power. A big man on a big board can do it if he's got the punch. But generally they don't cut it in juicy, overhead surf. Design? Well, principle is as much usable planing area as possible within practical dimensions. Some people are happy with the old ones, 9 feet to 11 feet, or so, while many who've been solid surfing through both eras, long and short, prefer them in between, 8 feet to 9 feet. The more noseride you want, the fuller nose and more tail lift. But you lose some trim speed. A nose concave gives a stable mush noseride, nice for beach breaks. The pure trimmers still like a little more tail lift than nose lift, and a nice planing area two-thirds forward. The trimmers really appreciate a wall. |
Photograph
: Greene
|
So it's fun to see them back,
especially
the updated, lighter, lower, smaller ones.
It's fun, but a little sad.
Sad to see more people out in the
mini-surf
that have peeled off empty for six or seven years.
Fun, but sad, but fun!
(Lennox Head)
|
Little Mac and his big fun boards. |
(Lennox Head)
|
Bob McTavish and Late 70's Malibu Board Photograph : Greene Surfer Volume 18 Number 4 1989, page 102. |
Surfer
Volume 18 Number 4 November 1977. Cover: Steve Dobney. |
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