home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |
surfresearch.com.au
midget : side slipper, 1970 |
Today in 1970, the greatest moment for any surfer is the same as it has been at anytime in the last ten years.
Riding
inside
a cylinder of water is still considered the ultimate piece
of involvement.
So, where
then
is the 360 and the side-slip.
In every
surfer's
mind it must be decided whether to accept these two new
manoeuvres or not.
This is the
way
it seems.
Australians
tend
to need to pass judgement on every facet of surfing.
Good, bad,
functional,
gimmick.
All I can
really
say is that if 'being tubed' feels good to the individual,
wait 'till you
go across a wave sideways, or backwards or even spinning.
The wave
makes
the difference of course as does the surfer's position on
that wave in
relation to the curl.
There are no rules in surfing, It's a free, form of physical expression motivated by a brain desiring to ?????????
There are too many reasons people surf the way they do, to record all or any.
Good
surfing is
spontaneous, or at least should appear that way.
Every surfer
has a plan in his mind on how to approach each wave in a
general pattern,
but his actual performance always appears varied and
hopefully unpredictable.
Australians
tend
to, want to, experience all things in a group i.e.
re-entries.
Everyone did
them all at the one time. People who act as a group do so
because they
are inadequate as individuals, and surfing is an individual
thing, as if
we didn't already know!
Still, we
are
a young surfing nation and perhaps we should all learn
together.
But when it
comes
to creativity we should not stifle an individual approach
nor reject alien
ideas that we did not necessarily think of first.
The
side-slip
is the simplest of manoeuvres employing the most
sophisticated un-weighting
and release techniques.
Ultra-simple
because the surfer only has to position himself high in the
curl then un-weight
by dragging his board in the fall.
The result
is
that the tail floats and the fin releases giving the board
no fixed pivot
point on the wave fall and this all results in the
board
sliding
side-ways until such time as the surfer puts his weight back
on the tail
by removing his dragging trail-board from the wave.
A surfer who
wants to get back into the curl or lengthen time spent in
the tube would
employ the side-slip because all else would not suffice in
the hollow wave
fall.
A cutback
cannot
be done to execute returning to the kind of tube position I
am referring
to.
That is a
hollow
wave that is tight and moving reasonably fast.
At Pipeline
the
side-slip is used very successfully to keep surfers under
the lip for fantastic
periods of time.
At Narrabeen
on a good ...
Page 31
... hollow,
low
tide day, it's amazing to see just how long guys can fend
behind that watery
veil that grinds across the hollow sand banks.
Side-
slipping
is not a new manoeuvre.
The surfers
who
rode twenty years ago on long, solid boards used it for
similar effect,
though they would have called it "boarding".
The thing
that
is so great about the side-slip is that it can be employed
in so many different
situations on every size wave, even Sunset Beach in Hawaii.
The best big
wave riders in the world would use side-slip to hold them
back into the
curl to delay that last minute burst of acceleration that
makes the vertical
descent more exhilarating.
You don't
require
a special board to side-slip though you may need to reduce
your fin area
to eliminate drag.
Fins can be
cut
to just the right size to permit both slipping and enough
good height for
a hard, bottom turn.
So much
depends
on the surfer, his board and the wave he must ride that
individuals should
experiment for themselves.
Adjustable
fin
boxes are very handy for this kind of experimentation.
The thing I
like
so much about side-slipping is the freedom created for the
surfer to ride
in other than the forward nose-first direction.
Imagine
someone
turning and weaving backwards down a wave, fin first.
Then as the
surfer
hits the bottom of the wave and is now under the curl, the
surfer puts
pressure on the tail and accelerates forward in a driving
bottom turn.
Or,
alternatively,
midway through a re-entry or roller-coaster the surfer
slides backwards
down the wave face, then prepares for another frontal attack
on the wave.
These things
I have already seen and may have done myself.
The 360 is
something
else entirely though it may begin as a side-slip and may
serve the same
function.
That is, to
kill
time on the wave and allow the curl to catch up.
Without
other
manoeuvres to link up the 360 is meaningless.
Performed in
a tube there is nothing like it.
This may not
be the seldom performed 360 rail turn, it may be on a
'twirlie', but do
one for yourself in a curl sometime and experience
first-hand the feelings
of semi-weightlessness and lack of concern for the waves'
immediate, threatening
curl.
A 360 on a
five
foot wave looks good.
On a ten
foot
wave it's 'out-a-site'.
Where the
contest
judges draw the line matters not.
When you are
tight to the curl and want to move closer, quickly, then by
all means use
one of these two manoeuvres to get you there.
You may find
you are much nearer to that ultimate involvement we all
seek.
|
Photographer: Unaccredited Surfing World Volume 13 Number 6, July 1970, page 31. |
Surfing World Volume 13 Number 6, July 1970, pages 30 to 31. |
home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |