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lynch : france, 1968 |
"Paul
says no surfing kiddies 'cause the other group will shoot
home movies.
I boil, I
yell an' scream I tell him I'm surfing!!
Two
parties meet an' fire agreements."
Page 10 I fly from Victoria, goodbye an' sadness! I land in Sydney, more sadness! I'm sick with disease, disease an' I surf together, we don't have fun. My board didn't work, depression, insanity an' anything else. Today is bye bye - the plane resembles a cattle truck, yet the service of Qantas is superb. We are interested in the coast from Perth on. That dies, then it's boredom, amusements an' then it's chicks. We swap seats an' settle for the twenty hour darky that's gonna happen. We stop at Malaysia, air is hot an' humid, heat rising from the ground has smell of soil an' things worse. Next was Ceylon, never saw it, this kid an' three million were unconscious. Arabia was reminiscent of Malaysia, people feel it worse or fight it less. |
Page 11 |
Page 12 Photograph:
I want
to sit for a million worlds on those clouds, I'm
bigger here than you are there."Glass, pure glass, pure sun an' pure mountains of water, land on my head all together."
I'd love to sit an' play wise men. We finally touch four being an' goodbye to Alice an' our little wonderland. Sadness mingled with excitement. To customs, what an experience, alla people think we are crazy, I think we agree. We try t' explain our machines. We win. Now it's Hertz. A woodie, without wings. Ha! |
Fiats are
the only cars, wonderful, zippy.
People's
faces carry enough expression to last us all.
Even Alice.
Nat an' Paul
push the woodie, it's stoked too, an' finally blows its
gasket.
Twelve miles
from La Barre.
Growls an'
scowls.
Put it to a
town.
Disgust.
But then a
bartender, an' English speaking local an' a surfer help us,
we could never thank them enough, it's great to know there
are people like these.
Next
morning at La Barre three foot onshore, disgusted.
But that
night about 7 p.m. the sun sets on the water, wind offshore,
waves 6 foot an' we surf.
The lips
become crystalized, you recognize their artillery by the
spray.
Beauty more
than the word.
Golden red
again, fills the sky, I have never seen anything, an' I mean
anything, not till I see this.
The moon
rises to watch us from the land, we laugh an' wave an' share
the same.
Next day
an' it's big.
The French
International is on.
We forget it
and drive to Guethary, a peak reminiscent of Sunset.
Glass, pure
glass, pure sun an' pure mountains of water land on my head
all together.
We surf for
hours, an' finally the tide is too low, we leave with sea
eggs in our feet.
To La Barre,
it's big an' even better
I'm
stunned, never have I seen waves like these.
The French
say they have been waiting for two hours,
MacGilivray
an' Freeman an' Keith Paull an' Mark Martinson an' Bill
Hamilton also.
Paul says no
surfing kiddies 'cause the other group will shoot home
movies.
I boil, I
yell an' scream I tell him I'm surfing!!
Two parties
meet an' fire agreements.
Happiness!
We are all
in the same heat.
Nat, Ted,
Paul, Keith, Mark, Bill an' this kid.
The others
compete, Paul an' I dig every wonderful pipe.
I cannot on
paper or by mouth ever explain some of those waves.
Huge, clean,
evern cleaner than clean waves.
To pop your
fin at the bottom an' feel the down rails hold, an' drive
into the biggest slot of my life is something beyond my
powers of description.
Maybe
anybody's.
We leave the
water, Hamilton says he is going to punch my face.
I believe
him.
So I let him
have the next wave an' it's forgotten.
(I dropped
in before.)
I won the
heat, it sinks in ten minutes later.
I don't
care.
Anyone who
cares is a fool on a day like this.
Remember
what happens to a fool an' his mind?
The final we
surf it again, we love it again.
I win, Nat
second, Keith third.
I still
don't care.
The tide
fills, the wind changes.
And so my
story ended, an' I think you know it all so well!
John Arnold Surfboards: Wayne Lynch Involvment |
Nat Young, page 15. |
Bob McTavish, Maui, 1967.
Still from Fantastic Plastic Machine (1969). |
George Greenough, 1967.
Still from Fantastic Plastic Machine (1969) |
|
Surf International Volume 1 Number 11 page 13, November 1968.? |
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