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randy rarick : australia, 1968 |
This copy courtesy
of the Graham Sorensen Collection.
Other Articles
[Bob Evans} Photography
Albert Falzon: Bruce's Beatuties Boo! Elands Bay Hurrah!!
Evans diary of surfing
the frigid left-handers of Eland Bay.
Richard Kavanaugh:
Wind and Sea vs Manly Pacific,
page 23
G. Cassidy: Film
review - The Way We Like It, page 29.
Bob Evans: Mauritius
- and island paradise, page 33.
Close Out!,
page 39.
Advertising
Gordon Woods Surfboards,
three templates, page 2.
Scott Dillon, page
4.
S.A.F.E. Set fin
systems, page 7.
Gordon and Smith,
Pintail and Tracker, page 9.
Jeff Carter: Surf
Beaches of Australia's East Coast, page 23.
Platt's Surfware,
page 31.
Farrelly Surfboards,
Summer pintail, a round-tail variation on our speed shapes
and speed square-tail ... 'Tracker." page 38.
Randy Rarick is
an 18-year-old surfer who came from Hawaii eight months ago.
He was the 1967
Hawaii State Junior Champion and rated number 5 in the Hawaiian Surfing
Association AAA ratings.
He's ridden almost
every spot in the Hawaiian islands and came to Australia to see what it
was all about.
He offers his
own candid views on the Australian scene and these are his feelings and
expressions on Australia.
ON Australian
Surfing in General
Due to the more
aggressive and competitive attitude the Australian surfers have, they seem
to show a lot more enthusiasm than those of both Hawaii and California.
I find them very
similar in spirit to the East Coast surfers of the U.S.
This attitude,
of course, has been reflected in the styles which have been produced in
the last year or so.
And it is these
styles which have set the trend for today's surfing.
I'll be the first
to admit that a lot of Australians are better than many Americans.
It's an obvious
fact that Australians were setting the paces for some time.
I say "were,"
because I feel that now many others have picked up upon ideas and are contributing
jusf as much.
ON Australia's
Surfers
I've been up
and down the coast of Australia from Bell's Beach to Noosa Heads, and at
one time or another seen just about if not every well-known good surfer.
I've surfed with
a lot of them on fun days, on good days, on bad days, and in contests.
In all this time
I've gained a great respect for a good many riders.
There are just
too many numerous good riders I've met to mention here.
So I'll just
elaborate on the better known ones and hope I don't offend any personalities.
Of all the surfing
I've'done I don't think I've had more fun than with guys like Keith Paull,
Peter Cornish (Sydney), "Baddy" Treloar, Wayne Lynch and Peter Drouyn.
I learned a great
deal from each one of them plus the pure enjoyment of surfing with them.
Page 10
In their own right
each one is a master of a board and on any given day one could beat the
other.
I have a great
deal of admiration for Keith Paul(l)
in the fact he's made it to the top on his surfing alone and not by publicity.
A thing which
is rathel uncommon these days.
Cornish is just
a neat guy to surf with, and to watch his cut backs makes one drool.
"Baddy" is just
the funny "jolly green giant" who makes happy surfing even better.
Lynchy is so
hot it makes me wonder how much more he can do.
But despite his
newfound ability he's a lot of laughs and a good kid.
Drouyn is in
a class of his own.
A lot of people
don't seem to like his style but I think he is one of the best and most
unique surfers today.
I feel in the
end he will emerge on top.
Nat is still
good and if he ever wanted, I suppose he could be great again.
McTavish is doing
his own little things but still surfing the way he wants and doing good.
Conneelly is
happier than ever so what more need to be said.
Guys like Parkinson,
Spencer, Channon, Brennan and Monie all have impressed me with their drive
and determination.
There are certainly
many more, and all of which have showed me that Australian surfers are
really good.
ON Bell's
Bell's has good
surf and it does get big.
Keith Paull,
"Baddy" and myself had it at 8-10 ft. ten days before the contest.
It's nothing
like Hawaii.
An easy vertical
climb and drop wall with no need for anything more than a good pintail.
Boobs- around
the corner- is another thing.
Fast Haliewa-
type waves that were out-of-sight.
Wayne Lynch is
the maestro of Bell's.
I need not say
any more because everything which has been written I'll simply double.
As for the contest
itself, well with no surf the judging was a bit erratic.
But otherwise
a very enjoyable contest.
ON the Australian
Titles
This had to be
one of the best contests I've ever watched.
Over three separate
contests Keith Paull was the obvious and favourable winner in my eyes as
well as just about everybody else's. It was funny to watch as Nat toppled
in front of all the hero-worshippers.
And yet the last
day showed that he could try awfully hard if he wanted.
Next to Keith,
Robert Conneelly impressed me more than any-body.
With his own
distinct style he won the contest within himself.
As for Midget,
I wish he'd take my advice and smile a bit more and have more fun with
his surfing rather than be so serious.
Lynchy was good,
but not as good as the days at Narrabeen before the contest.
It was these
fantastic days that Lynchy was THE Wayne Lynch.
Surfing for fun,
laughing, surfing our brains out.
These few days
with Spencer, "Baddy," Conneelly, 'Midget," early morning Nat, Keith and
myself - these were the days that made me glad I'd come to Australia, and
I think made everybody else glad they were Australians.
Page 11
ON Noosa
Noosa Heads-the
fabled fantastic dream spot.
What a joke!
Between all the
articles, stories and rumours, it's been built into the Cape St. Francis
of Australia.
I compare Noosa
to Waimeia Bay.
Sound funny?
Well, it's not.
Waimeia was only
good three times last year and broke on only five occasions.
Since the beginning
of this year Noosa has only been good really once and that was a week long
stretch in February!
Since then the
times it's broke haven't even been worth mentioning.
I myself was
sucked in and I've been spending the last three months in Queensland waiting
for just ONE of the "Cup of tea with God waves."
And in that three
months it hasn't been over three foot at National and nowhere near as good
as it is built up to be.
So all you disillusioned
masses, hope for a cyclone, 'cause Noosa won't be on till then.
ON the Development
of the Australian Surfboard
Having worked
in board shops for the past four years I have come to know and understand
a lot about surfboard construction and design.
Upon my arrival
in Australia the "stubby" style of board was in full swing.
I viewed these
with awe and dismay after just coming from the islands where the radical
pins were the common sight.
To be exposed
to a 7' x 25" x 18" pod, V-bottom, wonder was almost too much for me to
comprehend.
How could the
Australians be riding these I asked myself?
But, of course,
luckily, about this time the better riders who had been in Hawaii and were
influenced by the pins, saw the disadvantages of the stubbies and were
beginning to convert.
By Easter the
V-bottoms were on the way out, the pins coming on strong.
By the Australian
titles all but a few had converted.
And today, you
wouldn't find many self-respecting surfers without a pintail.
For once the
Australians adapted a Hawaiian idea and merely scaled it down to match
the Australian surf.
Although these
designs came from my homeland, I have sat back and watched as an outsider,
and in doing so I have not been totally caught up in the current trend
in either Hawaii or here.
I am aware of
it, of course, but I haven't committed myself to the fullest extent.
And in doing
this I have seen a flaw.
The new radical
designs are great-for one thing and one style only: the up and down, re-entry
YO-YO styles.
ON the New Surfing
Styles
This style is
not only happening here, but in America as well.
With the development
of the new boards they've restricted themselves into a patterned YO-YO.
I call it this
'cause that's exactly all they do.
And tell me,
what's the difference between the idea of this style as compared to what
noseriding was in America two years ago? See what I mean?
These new boards
have evolved into a speciality board the same that noseriders were.
And isn't that
the very essence of the idea Nat broke with his World Champion win in '66?
All around manoeuvering
was what won him the title -not just noseriding or YO-YOing!
Sure guys may
be pushing to the outer limits of YO-YOing, but didn't Nuuhiwa push to
the outer limits of noseriding?
And look what
happened to him!
So look back
to '66 for a second, and dwell upon it and think about it.
And then look
to guys like Keith Paul and Peter Drouyn and notice that they step to the
nose between re-entries.
YO-YOing to them
is just a part of surfing-not the whole bag!
These are simply
my comments and impressions which I have observed and I am offering them
as only comments and not as criticism, it is up to you to decide what you
like.
Sunday, 29th September
(AAP)-
ln a contest
held at Manly today Wlndansea defeated Manly Pacific by 11 points.
This is all that
would have been published about this contest in a daily newspaper.
However, for
those who were there, it was one of the most memorable contests ever held.
The day dawned
overcast with an onshore breeze and sloppy five foot surf, which IS in
keeping with the usual surfing traditions.
Upon the scene
arrived the New 2UW, which is fun to go round with in '68 or sum- think
like that.
Also on the scene
appeared a beard bearing the body of Shane Stedman.
The Manly Pacific
side was capably organised by General Franco Lever- who is still alive
and living in Spain?
Darryl Eastlake
was the commentator assisted by an insignificant blond- haired stompie-etc.
called Robbie "Bird- man" Mills, who every five minutes on the microphone
informed the multitudes it was "back to Love", and playing his tapes, thereby
charming more. ...than usual.
Enough about
those who helped run the competition.
Surprises came
early.
It was found
that former Manly stalwart "Baddie" Treloar was surfing for Windansea.
However, Windansea's
dynamic Peter Drouyn now surfed for Manly Pacific, which balanced the brain?drain.
Wayne Williams |
Peter Drouyn |
The first three
heats were dominated by Windansea with Kev. Parkinson producing some good
surfing to edge out Lester Brien (who, it is rumored, taught "Snow" McAlister
to surf).
Bruce Channon
came third, but more about him later.
The second heat
was won by John Monie (who plays football really) with Dick Harvey coming
second.
Robert Conneelly
turned in one of his best performances this year, winning the third heat
from Hawaiian transplant, Randy Rarick (amazing what they can do with f.
transplants nowadays), with Queenslander Peter Drouyn third.
The fourth heat
saw Peter Cornish of the chain ganger-Shane gang, powering through with
some unbelievable turns, in an effort to put Manly Pacific ahead.
However, in the
next heat Chris Brock and Peter Cornish (Junior Model) put paid to any
hope Manly had of winning, when they outclassed the opposition.
A little while
afterwards Ward "Pally" Austin arrived, demonstrated that he didn't know
all that much about surfing when he
spoke over the
microphone and departed a little afterwards.
Then came a demonstration
final that was to have had three surfers from each Club competing.
However, the
Widan-and- sea contingent apparently didn't like the contgenial atmosphere
at Manly and had returned to the smog-shrouded South Side.
(Otherwise known
as the "other side" to the North Shore-ites).
It was this demonstration
final that made the contest so memorable.
The "Jolly Green
, Giant" represented Windansea with Peter Cornish, Peter Drouyn, Bruce
Channon, Randy Rarick, Dick Harvey and Ian Goodacre flying the Manly Pacific
colours.
The contestants
hit
Page 26
the water and
soon afterwards spectators realised that something different was happening,
the surfers' seemed to be having a fun session as the wind changed to the
north west and blew at an angle into the wave.
One of the surfers
who was having a ball was Randy Rarick, who turned in amazing fin-first
take-off exhibitions, completing two magnificent skeg-firsts from only
27* attempts.
Drouyn thought
this was fun and did a few as well, he also did other things that I think
he invented in the heat of the moment. Channon didn't like being seen by
the crowd so he spent all his time disappearing inside the tube.
Harvey liked
what Channon was doing, but wanted to go one better- he did a paddle out
take-off and then disappearing inside the tube while still doing his turn
and staying inside, emerging only for fresh air, all the while on his backhand.
At this "Baddie"
thought they were all mad, surfed to win, and tried hard.
Cornish tried
hard, however he too finally joined the fun crowd, delighting in bombing
out in the shorebreak after ripping the wave apart.
Little Goody
let himself go and started throwing his board allover the place, having
a World War 1 dog- fight with every wave.
The Jolly Green
Giant rode past Moo Cow to victory with Drone coming third.
In other words,
for those who like the facts straight, the placings were Treloar, Cornish,
Drouyn; however, in my opinion, they all won, because they succeeded in
doing what they wanted to do, but how can you dead-heat seven or eight
surfers, when a transistor had to be given to the winner.
Such a classical
contest was this, that no one said the results shouId have been different,
no controversy, just a happy feeling and a thought that there should be
more contests like this one.
Later at the Leagues
Club I found out what had happened when I asked Randy Rarick about the
final and he replied: "It was the neatest contest I've ever been in-it
was outasight!
We were out there
trying, but not caring if we didn't win, we just did what we wanted to
do."
Drouyn broke
in here and said when he saw Randy trying a skeg-flrst take- off he shouted
to Randy that he would do one before him.
Randy continued,
"Peter and I were out there surfing for ourselves and not particularly
for the judges.
Channon was the
third down, he's seen me paddling out and he'd run to the nose, and then
look at me to see if I was watching.
We just laughed
at each other and kept surfing.
We were telling
each other what a tremendous thing we'd done on the last wave.
Since coming
to Australia I completely reversed my idea about surfing and this final
was just an expression of these ideas."
Randy was last
heard drinking a Tequila and saying: "It was bitchen!
I wish all contests
were like that, it was just so rinky dink."
P.S. This article
was written at a ridiculously low figure because of the standover tactics
of the Editor.
Richard Kavanaugh
Photos Albert
Falzon
FRENCH CHAMPIONSHIPS
By the time this
issue gets on the newsagents' shelves The World Titles will be over and
maybe an Australian will be The World Champion.
For those who
have not yet been informed the French Championships were held not too long
back and a small group of Aussies entered.
First, Wayne
Lynch, second, Nat Young and third Keith Paull.
ELANDS ...BELIEVE
IT OR NOT
If you ever get
to Africa and if you have itchy feet, it's the first place you should head
for- there's an old tale that just about every surfer will tell you about.
Elands Bay is
150 miles north of Capetown on the west side of the continent, along with
its great surf has giant kelp beds and a thriving crayfish industry.
One day late
last year the water got colder than its normal 50 degrees and some 40,000
cray fish walked out of the water and
died ;;-;;--the
~h.
You think that's
hard to believe some of the locals got as high as 100,000.
We found the
whole thing pretty hard to believe until Ron Perrot produced a newspaper
clipping along with a photograph and although there wasn't a head count
it was estimated that around 35,000 died.
A VERY GOOD YEAR
Everywhere in
Africa people were telling us about the tasty crayfish, we were beginning
to wonder if it wasn't a national meaL Spent five weeks there and didn't
try one.
Their wines are
great though and we did try plenty of them.
WORLD TRAVELLER
Keith Paull,
who now has the travelling bug, returned to Australia from a three months'
surfing trip in Europe and Africa only to pick up his ticket to Puerto
Rico.
While in Europe
he spent most of his time in France where he said 'the standard of living
is- very high and everyone is rich'.
He spent most
of his time surfing at Birritz (sic) and reports that it was the
best surf he had in Euprope.
Keith also checked
out Spain and Portugal, met up with MacGillivray and Freeman who had with
them Mart Markinson and Billy Hamilton, surfed in the French Championships
and placed third.
From Europe he
travelled to Africa, surfed around Durban, wined and dined with some very
nice people and surfed Jeffrey's Bay for a week.
If Keith wins
the World Titles he'll be back in Australia within two months; if he doesn't
he'll spend the next two years travelling through the United States.
NOOSA CONTEST
Lyn Jones sends
us the results of a recent Noosa contest.
Senior: 1st,
Graham Black; 2nd, Peter Drouyn; 3rd, Ricky Nielson.
Junior: 1st,
David Treloar; 2nd, Paul Nielson; 3rd, L. Bache.
Women: 1st, Kim
McKenzie; 2nd, Lyn Jones; 3rd, Jenny Clarey.
|
Volume 11 Number 4, November1968. This copy courtesy of the Graham Sorensen Collection. |
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