witzig : bells, 1967
Breakthrough: The Paddle-Out Entry (take-off) by Robert "Nat " Young and The Skeg-First Takeoff by David Nuuhiwa, pages 33-37.
Too by "Bahama Pat" Moloney, pages 38-39.
East coast correspondent invites Australians to Long Beach or Long Island, New York, to meet some genuine power surfers.
1. Mike Purpus, 2. Corky Carroll, 3. Mark Martinson, 4. David Nuuhiwa, 5. Skip Frye.
Outstanding Ride: David Nuuhiwa, page 41.
Although accredited on the contents page, John Witzig does not get a by-line for his article.
advertisement by Morey-Pope as a
instance where promotion produces an fascinating technical
analysis of surfboard rocker, as good as any article of the
Integral to the text is the creation of a wave model by the reader, by bending the bottom corner of the page over to a printed mark.
The arrows indicate the graduation in the curve of the wave face, from "top to bottom" Sunset beach to "bearly rideable" Waikiki.
The scale is reproduced here on the right hand side of the page, the dots approximate the relative spacing.
Unfortunately the intended wave model does not take the required shape when the printed mark is used, it should be perhaps higher up the page.
The author appears to avoid any comment on big-wave gun design by noting that, somewhat inaccurately, "the distances between radical changes in the curve of the wave are considerably more than the length of the board."
Hobie Surfboards, Corky Carroll tests experimental stringerless model (later released as the Flexible), page 2.
Slipcheck, Nuuihwa: I Slipchecked the whole deck, the most famous image associated with the product, page 3.
G&S Surfboards, Skip Frye, Mike Hynson, and Midget Farrelly Stringerless modesls, page 4.
Weber Surfboards, New Performer with 3 scoop options and 3 nose and tail widths, pages 6-7.
Grip (spray wax) and Competition Surfing Wax, World Surfing Products, page 9, page 14.
Morey-Pope, Natural Rocker, page 18.
Severson's Great Surfing, $5.95, page 21.
Control (spray wax), Con Surfboards, page 29.
Bob McTavish drops in at Bell's Beach, Australia, for shot two of the sequence turn the page ...
[McTavish did not surf in the contest]
Involvement was the name of the game- total involvement- in what may well have been the greatest contest surf of all time.
It was the Red Baron against the Blue Max in a fierce surfing dog fight.
It was consistently beautiful 10- to 15- foot swells crackling with precision explosions off the point at Bells Beach.
It was a great example of the Australian theory of surfing involvement that has raised the sport to a new pinnacle.
It was the Australian National Championships.
Robert "Nat" Young, the world champion, ripping these
beautiful waves in a savage battle with his not-so-friendly
rival Bernard "Midget" Farrelly, the first world champion.
And then there was Peter Drouyn finishing with such a rush on the final day's competition that the nine judges had a difficult time sorting out the winners.
But when the final tallies were marked up on the board, it was Nat Young, nicknamed the Blue Max because he was wearing a blue wet suit ,who was in the number one position.
Drouyn was number two, a scant two points ahead of Farrelly, the Red Baron in his red wet suit.
finalists were Young, Farrelly, Bob Brown, Keith Paul (sic)
and Ted Spencer, all from New South Wales; and, of course,
the up-and-coming Drouyn, the Queensland and National junior
champion, who has moved up to the senior division.
Commented Ray Young, the Aussie team manager:
"Surfers will talk about this final. for a long time, as it fast developed into a real dog fight. .. A new combatant had entered the scene to rival the Red Baron and Blue Max-the Green Hornet, Peter Drouyn, so named after his green wet suit.
(sic) put on what must have been his best display, and
I rated him in the first three.
However, the nine judges did not see it this way.
twenty minutes, the pattern was set.
Nat was surfing hard, pulling off some unbelievable stuff, but a lot of this was marred by his "dropping in," and he lost valuable points by this.
Midget again rode safely, occasionally becoming: aggressive, but not enough to get on top."
fantastic surfing display at Bells Beach underscored why the
Australian surfing has so far surpassed the American style.
Perhaps one reason is the Aussie boards: they're short (9'
to 9'3", fat (22" to 23'') and thin (2 1/2" center razor
But it's the style that makes the difference- the Australians stick close to that curl, and the accent is on the crouch.
In the words of top Australian surf theorist Bob McTavish, "In, around, on top of, and in the curl" is the trade-mark of the great Australian surfing.
Photograph: Bob McTavish - Bell's Beach - totally involved! Shot two of the sequence by John Witzig.
Photo: Albert Falzon.
Cropped version of
Australian Championships were set up on the "movable
contest" idea that the Australians had seen in action at the
World Championships at San Diego last October.
However, as it turned out, the waves at Bells Beach could not be surpassed- many veterans said they were better than anything they'd ever seen in the surfing world, including Sunset Beach in Hawaii.
Both Young and Farrelly- who make no secret of their dislike of each other- had high praise for young Peter Drouyn in their respective surfing columns in Sydney newspapers.
Young, writing in the "Sunday Telegraph," said he was happy that Drouyn had such a good showing "because it proves that there are no biased decisions by our judges and that our judging system is the best in the world.
(Above) Nat Young drives across a fabulous glass wall on
his way to the Chamionship. Photo: Falzon.
(Below) John "Nipper" Williams plays it tight at Bell's Beach near Melbourne, Australia. Photo: Albert Falzon.
Advertisement: Ramsey Jay Surfboards.
(Above) An Australian performer outraces a slick
Bell's wall on his way to the Chamionship. Photo:
(Below) Butch Cooney bottom turns under the powerful soup. Photo: Falzon.
his column stated:
"Nat Young came away with the first placings in the men's division, and he rode well, impressing the judges with his positioning on the bigger waves, and especially with his maneuvers in the white water.
But for my money, Peter Drouyn stood out for his powerful bottom turns- a dangerous competition maneuver in big surf- and his ability to go through sections inside the waves without grabbing a rail."
had nice things to say about the Australian judging system,
although he was not as high in praise as was Young.
judging system, although not completely flawless, was a vast
improvement over previous competitions.
It's good to see the standard of Australian competition and judging improving."
women's division, Gail Couper retained her crown, with Lyn
Stubbins second and Viv Campbell third.
Commented photographer Albert Falzon, a veteran observer of the Australian surf scene:
of the competition had six top surfers extracting every
possible point from each ride.
The competition was so fierce and the standard of riding so high, I found it impossible to separate the placings.
|David Nuuhiwa says:
"They didn't have Slipcheck when I was a kid.
I used to slip a lot.
The warm Hawaiian water melted the wax and it oozed under my feet.
When I came to the Mainland, I found that cold water hardened the wax and made it slick.
Slip check solved the problems.
I Slipchecked the whole deck of my new lightweight (All these colors weigh less than a bar of wax).
I use plenty of wax over the Slipcheck in the places where I lie and shuffle around. The millions of Slip check grains hold the wax like teeth and keep it from rubbing off.
Slip check red or black used as a base under the wax keeps it rough in very cold water.
Clear, White, and Yellow Slipcheck keeps wax cool in hot weather.
For the nose and tail I still use pure Slipcheck without wax.
It gives me great footing, just like it did a year ago when I first began using it.
When your board is slippery, you just can't get hot.
Use genuine Slip check for professional texture.
Breaks top to bottom
medium tide, 12 ft. plus.
On large wave boards with relatively
little rocker work well; the distances
between radical changes in the curve
of the wave are considerably more than the length of the board.
Honolula Bay, Rincon,
low tide 5-8 ft.
You won't make these waves if the rocker
in your board is extreme but strong rocker
in the tail will keep you in the pocket.
Breaks top to center.
Malibu, Virginia Beach,
medium tide, 3-7 ft.
moderate rocker in the tail improves
maneuvering and control.
Very, very slight rocker near the nose
tends to improve noseriding.
Wave crumbles or feathers gently
low tide up to 4 ft.
Noseriding possible if nose has absolutely no kick.
Wave stands up but doesn't break
Waikiki, San Onofre (typical beaches)
high tide 1-4 ft.
Straight in riding on longboards is all that is possible on slopes this low.
Absolute minimum rocker is best.
shape was used to determine natural rocker.
Hold the lower left corner of this page down (folded loosely) against the A mark below.
Then look across the page into the paper wave that is formed.
just constructed a simplified model of what we call
the Master Template.
The maximum hollowness found in waves varies greatly
from beach to beach and tide to tide.
model is used here primarily to show that a wave
always has more curve where you've been than where
you are going.
curves of each board pictured above match the
natural hollowness of the waves for which they were
three different boards seek unusual positions in the
wave and all maneuver exceptionally well.
"Natural Rocker in the tail of a well built board
lets you into the unique positions."
John Peck dead center. Pocket surfing or noseriding?
Coop, reverse shoulder. Blue Machine
Volume 8 Number 4
Copy courtesy of Graham Sorensen Collection.