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cohen : point pipeline, 1967 

Steve Cohen : Point Pipeline, 1967.

  Cohen, Steve: Point Pipeline
Surfabout

Volume 4 Number 3, 1967.
Introduction
Possibly the first published photographs of Wreck Bay (a.k.a. Point Pipeline, Pipe, Black Rock, Summercloud Bay, Aussie Pipe), possibly by Jack Eden, the editor of Surfabout.
Unfortunately, the page number were not recorded.

In October 2017Stu Nettle, Editor Swellnet.com, noted that Steve and Steven "Hag" Hague alternated taking the shots using Steve's camera.

Page A

Mick Meir lines up the wall ahead totally unaware of the curl above his head.
Concentration is the keynote in this pic.


Last Easter some Cronulla surfers stumbled upon the best wave any one of them had seen on the South Coast for years.

The spot is the perfect summer surf, with the inevitable nor-easter off-shore, being secluded from the weekend boards.
It is accessible only by four wheel drive vehicles, and a long sharky paddle across a large bay.

The reef is comparable to Hawaii's Pipeline on a smaller scale, although some weekend fishermen have estimated 12 footers breaking on an outer reef.

The inside reef springs up suddenly and the swell lines up and peels off at  about five to six feet.
The oyster infested rock platform is crescent shaped, creating an extremely fast hollow wave.
The ride is predominately a left hander, but an occasional ultra right came through.


As the reef is protected from the open sea, a moderate swell and a high tide is required to bring in the swell and cause it to wrap around the point.
At high tide the water depth varies from five foot at the take off to two inches where you have to flick out or chase your board over an oyster bed.

The typical ride consists of a bottom turn, running to the speed position and then watching the tube peel off above your head.
In this type of surf you do not have to work your insides out to gain the most satisfaction
from the wave.
The wave is so tubular and critical that the most delicate stall will keep the surfer totally involved with the curl.

A vicious cut back would result in being smothered in white water with no way to escape of being sucked over the bottom several times by the powerful shallow breaking waves.

The main necessity of surfing this spot is the ability to accelerate as fast as possible to avoid the tube engulfing the rider to the point of no return.

This surf could be put down as an ego wave, but all those who have surfed there agreed that each wave they rode was a real challenge, and they used all the ability to survive the small but extremely powerful tube waiting to swallow the rider after making the most trivial misjudgement.
By STEVE COHEN
Page B


Steve Cohen shows grace and expertise as he
performs a backhand bottom turn at Point Pipeline






Let's relax fellas, it has been a hard day's surfing.
Steve really shows how as he comes into the beach
 in a most relaxed position.







Whitewash everywhere!
Steve Cohen really battles the thundering wash
as he finishes his ride at Point Pipeline.




Surfabout
Volume 4 Number 3, 1967.


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Geoff Cater (2016) : Steve Cohen : Point Pipeline, 1967.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1967_Cohen_Point_Pipeline_Surfabout_v4n03.html