Cohen : Point Pipeline, 1967. Cohen, Steve:Point Pipeline Surfabout Volume 4 Number 3, 1967.
Introduction Possibly the first
published photographs of Wreck Bay (a.k.a. Point Pipeline,
Pipe, Black Rock, Summercloud Bay, Aussie Pipe), possibly by
Jack Eden, the editor of Surfabout.
Unfortunately, the page number were not recorded.
In October 2017Stu
Nettle, Editor Swellnet.com,
noted that Steve and Steven "Hag" Hague alternated taking the
shots using Steve's camera. Page A
Mick Meir lines up the
wall ahead totally unaware of the curl above his head.
Concentration is the keynote in this pic.
Last Easter some Cronulla surfers stumbled
upon the best wave any one of them had seen on the South
Coast for years.
The spot is the perfect summer surf, with the inevitable
nor-easter off-shore, being secluded from the weekend
It is accessible only by four wheel drive vehicles, and a
long sharky paddle across a large bay.
The reef is comparable to Hawaii's Pipeline on a smaller
scale, although some weekend fishermen have estimated 12
footers breaking on an outer reef.
The inside reef springs up suddenly and the swell lines up
and peels off at about five to six feet.
The oyster infested rock platform is crescent shaped,
creating an extremely fast hollow wave.
The ride is predominately a left hander, but an occasional
ultra right came through.
As the reef is protected from the open sea, a moderate
swell and a high tide is required to bring in the swell
and cause it to wrap around the point.
At high tide the water depth varies from five foot at the
take off to two inches where you have to flick out or
chase your board over an oyster bed.
The typical ride consists of a bottom
turn, running to the speed position and then watching the tube peel off above your
In this type of surf you do not have to work your insides
out to gain the most satisfaction from the wave.
The wave is so tubular and critical that the most delicate
stall will keep the surfer totally involved with the curl. A vicious cut back would result in being
smothered in white water with no way to escape of being
sucked over the bottom several times by the powerful shallow
The main necessity of surfing this spot is the ability to
accelerate as fast as possible to avoid the tube engulfing
the rider to the point of no return.
This surf could be put down as an ego wave, but all those
who have surfed there agreed that each wave they rode was a
real challenge, and they used all the ability to survive the
small but extremely powerful tube waiting to swallow the
rider after making the most trivial misjudgement.
By STEVE COHEN
shows grace and expertise as he performs a backhand
bottom turn at Point Pipeline
fellas, it has been a hard day's surfing. Steve really shows how as he
comes into the beach in a most relaxed
everywhere! Steve Cohen really battles
the thundering wash as he finishes his ride at