Source Documents
graham : fred hemmings,  1964. 

Dick Graham : Fred Hemmings Profile,  1964.
 Fred Hemmings Profile
Rick Grigg: On-board Camera
Wake Boarding : Salton Sea
Gayle Momi Adachi
Petersen's Surfing
Volume 1 Number 6, August 1964.
The profile of Fred Hemmings by editor Dick Graham followed Fred's victory in the junior division of the1963 Makaha Contest, hence his title as
International Junior Men's Surfing Champion.
In 1958 Fred Hemmings came third in the juniors at the Makaha International Surfing Championships, he won the junior event in 1961 and 1963 and the seniors in the following year.
His prodigious contest record includes wins at the 1964 Peruvian International, the 1966 Makaha International, and the 1968 World Championships in Puerto Rico.
He also competed in the Molokai to Oahu Canoe Race, crewing in Championship Teams in 1967, 1968, 1975, and the Masters in 1984.
With Randy Rarick, Hemmings founded the International Surfing Professional Contest circuit (IPS, 1976-1983), ushering in a new era of competition.
A strong advocate for women in professional surfing, in 1975 Hemmings founded the World Cup of Surfing championships with events for both men and women
See Fred Hemmings.

Listed on the Contents page
are articles on bodysurfing, bodyboards, nose riding, Queensland, and Ala Moana (featued on the cover), along side advertisements for O'Neill Surfboards and Titan Chemicals Inc.
In the late 1960s, O'Neill became the market leader in surfing wetsuits, Titan announcing the release of their 4ft 7" Mini Board, a new design for exciting body surfing.

As claimed, the centrefold is a remarkable colour photo by Rick Grigg, taken with a surfboard mounted-camera at Waikiki.
In the mid-1980s, camera mounted boards, often mounted on the tail, were used in the quest to replicate George Greenough's groundbreaking inside-looking-out photography.
By the turn of the century, such images became commonplace with digitalisation and extensive use of the Go-Pro camera.

Similarly, Graham's article on wake-boarding was prophetic, the sport is now commonly seen on the world's lakes and rivers.
Unsuprisingly, the performance of Mickey Munoz was outstanding,
being able to hang five or ten or jump the wake any time he wanted.
Munoz was a highly competive surfer with a remarkable record of achiements; one of the first to surf Waimea Bay, riding Sunset Beach with Phil Edwards in a Hobie Cat, and he was the stand-in for Sandra Dee, in a blond wig, in the first Gidget film.
As Graham notes, the history
the location, the Salton Sea, is packed with many interesting stories, geologically and historically.

In fact, before the introduction of high speed motor boats, the technique of water skiing was pioneered with surfboards and then aquaplanes.

Blimp Water Skiing - The New Sport of 1932 [HD]
1916 Open Exhaust : Aquaplaning, Toledo.
1919 C. H. Clark: Wake Surfing, Hudson River.
1922 F. Scott Fitzgerald : Aquaplaning.

Not listed in the Contents is a two page article on Momi Adachi, the tandem partner of Rabbitt (sic) Kekai, placing third in the 1963 Makaha Championshps.
With half a dozen photographs, the closest she gets to the water is sitting on a alma (outrigger) of a canoe at Waikiki.

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Hemmings Has It!!
Profile by Dick Graham.

What makes a truly great surfer?

The point has been argued for years, and the argument will probably go on for quite some time.
Eighteen year old Fred Hemmings, the current International Junior Men's Surfing Champion, has many qualities no that might settle the argument somewhat.
We interviewed this great young surfer in his home town of Honolulu recently.
"I enjoy surfing because its TRULY an individual sport and a surfer can develop his own individual style" the suntanned Hemmings was commentating.
"I think the worst thing a surfer can do is imitate another surfer's style.

Everything a rider does should be functional to the wave as he feels it, not just because a particular surfer looks good executing a particular maneuver at a particular time."

To give a little background on Fred, here are some of his vital statistics.
He is 5'10" and weighs 190 pounds (Give or take a little).
He was born in Honolulu and lived there all his life.
Hemmings has two brothers and three sisters, ranging in age from 7 to 24, who are all surfers.
His sister came in second at Makaha when the Championships first started back in 1956-57.
Fred is a senior at Punaho High School and it also a senior member of the Windansea Surf Club.

To love any sport means to work hard at it, as everyone knows.
Fred Hemmings certainly holds to that precept in his life.
Not only does he work diligently at surfing, but he is an excellent water sports man.
He's an outstanding swimmer, and has been a member of the Hawaiian Outrigger Club since he was ten years old.
The canoes they race, the Kakina and the Lei Lani, are 40 feet long and made of a Koa wood log.
They are both 42 years old and worth over $3,000.
"Canoe racing is a true Hawaiian sport, and its good fun too," says Hemmings.
Fred is also an outsanding football player at Punahou High, where he plays center and line backer.
"I definitely want a college degree, and plan on going to Oregon State.
I'll major in History and minor in P.E."

As long at we're talking about Fred's attributes, we should probably mention the Peruvian contest.
When I asked him what his most outstanding surfing experience was, it took him a few seconds to mentally down what I'm sure was a long list.
"I guess, winning the Grand Championship of Peru,"' was his slow answer.

In the Peru contest they have three surfing events.
In front of the club there is an inside break and an outside break where they hold a Hot-dogging contest on each break.
Then they drive about a half an hour from Lima to Kontiki Beach, where they hold the big wave event.

"I went on the trip with Phil Edwards, and we both had a great time.
They really treated us well down there," he continued.
Hemmings came in 2nd in both the Hot-Dogging contests and 1st in the Big Waves Event, which gave him enough points to become the overall champion.
After another short pause he exclaimed, "Oh yes.
I remember something else that taught me an awfully big lesson.
When I was eleven years old, I was surfing at Ala Moana (when it first became popular).
Page 23

It was a late Summer evening and everyone had left the water.
Being an eager young surfer I decided to gel just one more wave.
I took of on a huge wave and lost my board in a terrible wipeout.
It was a big day, and I suddenly found myself being swept into the channel and outside into deeper waters.
Somehow, I was lucky.
A boat passed by at the critical point and gave me a ride inside to safety where I found my board in the boat channel and paddled in like nothing had happened.
I was really scared!
I have never told anyone about this episode."

Our discussion then turned to types of surf and surfing spots.
Gazing out the window Fred mumbled, "Every type of surf is good to me as long as I'm there and I'm surfing.
In small surf, I like long walls.
In big surf, I prefer peak type.
You have to remember that to us Islanders big and small surf doesn't mean the same thing as it does to the guys from California.
I can't really say which I like best.
It's like saying who do you like best, your mom or your dad."
Lying back on the couch as though he were dreaming, he smiled and said, "I try to enjoy surfing.
Every wave is different and presents a different problem.
To me, the most fun is a 12 to 15 foot day at Sunset Beach.
However, I can still enjoy a small day on Maui or 20 feel at Waimea."

During a discussion about surfing, that had nothing to do with the interview, Fred made a very interesting analysis.
Laughingly Fred confirmed. "I've been to California twice and surfed at Hermosa, Redondo, San Onofre, Malibu and Rincon.
I can't really give a fair opinion of their surf, because it wasn't good enough to get a good analysis.
I enjoyed the good hot dogging surf at Malibu and Rincon.
Still, to me, Hawaii is the best.
There's no comparison.
We have hot sun and clear warm blue water.
"I've seen California guys surfing on surf that was pretty ridiculous.
I've also seen articles in magazines featuring waves and spots in California that I wouldn't even gel out of the car to surf in Hawaii.
I always get in arguments with California surfers who come to the Islands saying I haven't seen their surf on a good day.
Many of my friends brag about their California spots but they always end up here to do their real surfing."

Page 4                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Page 5
Long Black Wave (Fiction)... 6
Surfing Here, There, and Everywhere...   12
Queensland, Australia...  16
Body Surfing...  18
Fred Hemmings Profile...   22
Boat Surfing- Salton Sea...  24
Ala Moana...   26
Rock'n the Nose...   30
Surfing fundamentals- Part III... 38
Bodyboarding...  40


White clouds sailing across blue skies on soft tropical breezes ...
the sibilant hissing of  a fast breaking comber ...
the exultant cry of the wave rider slashing across the writhing slope of a Hawaiian boomer ...
these are the sights and sounds that comprise the human emotion called surfing.

In this remarkable color photo, Rick Grigg takes his own picture by means of a surfboard mounted-camera at the same time records Ron Church behind him on the same wave at Waikiki.

Page 24
For wake boat surfing in the middle of the desert you can't beat...
Salton Sea.

By Dick Graham

The first thing that hits your ey
es at you approach Salton Sea is the amazingly large beach line etched in a mountainous area of the desert.
The Saltan Sea is California's Iargest inland body of water and the worlds largest inland sea.
Its located about an hours drive south of Palm Springs on U.S. Highway 99, and less than three hours from Los Angels.
The Saltan Sea itself is 34 miles long and from 10 to 15 miles wide.
Its deepest point is 40 feet, but it has a very shallow shoreline.
The temperature of the water is 70 degrees and the average year round air temperature 80 degrees.
Centuries ago the body of water was a pan of the ocean and its history is packed with many interesting
stories, geologically and historically.

Mickey Munoz/
Freeboarding -jumps wake.

Mickey Munoz/
Freeboarding - hangs 10.

Don Hansen/
Boat wake surfing.
For what is supposed to be a dead sea, the Saltan Sea is certainly alive with activity of all kinds - fishing, boating, swimming, water skiing- and we introduced boat wake surfing.
The "we" being Mickey Munoz, top surfer, Don Hansen, Board manufacturer, and myself.
Many of the people at the boat marina thought we were crazy to bring surfboards to the middle of the desert.
They all started the standard line of people not familiar with this new sport, "It can't he done without a tow rope."
The sun was really beating down when we pulled up to the boat marina.
We quickly located the boat we were to use, loaded it up, and headed out (
towards the middle of this huge body of water.)

Page 25

towards the middle of this huge body of water.
Being the middle of the week there were not too many people out and we virtually had all of Salton Sea to ourselves.
Munoz was the first one over the side, and with Hansen at the controls and myself behind the camera, we headed farther out.
Our troubles began when my camera jammed and wouldn't advance.
This meant there would be no pictures for the day.
Next the fuel line on the boat clogged and the battery went dead when we tried over and over again to clear it.
So now the idea of being the only boat out didn't look as great as it did in the beginning.
Two boats passed in the distance with people waving back friendly greetings to our frantic signals of distress.
As the sun was going down* and we were getting tired of paddling, we finally got a passing boat to notice that we were in trouble, and they towed us to shore.
Lessons learned: Take two cameras and check out your boat before you head too far from shore.

On the second day the water on the Sea was glassy and there was no breeze at all.
We began boat wake surfing and free boarding, right after lunch, and went for four hours.
There wasn't as much trouble this day, and we all had a fine time.
We were using a 17 foot boat with a 75 hp motor so we had no trouble in throwing up a sufficient wake to ride on.  
The free boarding (riding a surf board behind the boat with a two rope), was the wildest with the 75 hp motor wide open.
Munoz came out way ahead in this category, being able to hang five or ten or jump the wake any time he wanted.
He made free hoarding look easier than water skiing.

Mickey Munoz/ Freeboarding.

Mickey Munoz/
Boat wake surfing.

Don Hansen/

Starts wake surfing.

Mickey Munoz/
Boat wake surfing.
We used two boats for boat wake surfing on the second day, and did an interesting thing.
By putting the two boats at just the right distance apart the two wakes overlapped.
This gave us a much bigger wake and enabled us to be able to go on a right or left slide depending upon which wake we were riding.
 Ihit type of wake also let us go a little faster than the usual 17 to 20 knots.

Page 34

Page 35

Momi Adachi :
Surfmaid With the Most
(To Say the Least!)

Ever since our May issue covering the  Makaha Championships we have been swamped with mail asking about Gayle Momi Adachi.
This fetching little Japanese miss is 22 year old, was born in Honolulu.
She is currently a Senior at the University of Hawaii.
She stands 5'2" and weighs 105 pounds.
Momi, as she is called by her friends, has two sisters and two brothers, none of whom are interested in surfing.

After graduation, Momi will be going to Stewardess school in Florida for Pan American Airlines.
Her home base will be San Francisco, and she is scheduled for flights to the Latin American countries.
When Momi has had her fill of traveling (approximately two years) she plans to work as a home economist with a utility company in Hawaii or on the Mainland.
Home economics is her major at
the University of Hawaii.
Momi is a versatile person, with a tremendous number of hobbies, even though she has little spare time.
She works 30 hours a week after school at the Jolly Roger in Waikiki.
She is presently studying Karate, and says "you can't tell what might come up when I become an airline stewardess," but this is not the real reason, "
It's a lot of fun, and the hard exercise keeps me in shape."
She loves to cook and sew, and taught sewing for the Singer Sewing Machine Company for two years.
At one time she studied modern dancing, and this is what led her into doing tandem surfing.

Momi hasn't had too much experience at individual surfing, but was active in tandem surfing during 1963.
She enjoys watching the thrills and excitement of big or small surf.
Her most outstanding surfing experience was participating in the Makaha Championships.
She was the partner of Rabbitt Kekai in 1963.
With very little surfing background, she had always wanted to do tandem.
So in December, 1963, she walked up to Rabbitt and asked if he had a partner for the upcoming International Surfing Championships.
When he said, "no" she asked if she could surf with him.
Rabbitt casually answered, "we will see."
After a few workouts, they decided to enter the contest.
They did quite well and finished third.
Momi doesn't plan on entering in 1964, but you can never tell what this swinging little gal will do next.

Petersen's Surfing
Volume 1 Number 6
August 1964

Ala Moana by Ron Church


Geoff Cater (2020) : Dick Graham : Fred Hemmings Profile, 1964.