for primates : a catatogue of surfboards in australia since 1900
brown : phil at pipeline,
: Phil Edwards at Pipeline, 1961.
Volume 4 Number
1963, page 41.
Copy courtesy of
the Graham Sorensen Collection.
The text accompanying
the twelve frames taken from Bruce Brown's Surfing Hollow Days is
taken almost verbatum from the film's script.
Said to be the first
time Pipeline was ridden at significant size in the modern era.
SHOTS FROM SURF SPECTACULARS
In the winter of
1961, a nameless surfing spot was "checked out" frequently by a few surfers
on the north shore of Oahu.
thought it might be possible to ride this new place.
He talked with
other expert surfers and each one looked at the surf and gave a similar
"It can't be
done" ..."You can't ride a wave like that" ..."Too dangerous,"etc.
In spite of these
opinions, Phil kept his eye on the place and finally went out on a small
day and rode a couple of waves.
even small waves there, he was ready to agree with the rest of the surfers.
One bright, sunny
morning the surf was bigger and the waves looked nearly perfect.
to paddle out beside the break and take a closer look at the waves.
After just a
few minutes of looking, he surprised himself and the few people watching
by paddling into the break, turning around, and taking off on the first
wave of a good-sized set.
fantastic tunnel ride is pictured here in sequence.
In picture number
11 you can see the wave has "squirted" and actually blasted Phil out of
sequence shot was taken at the "Pipeline," from Bruce Brown's film, "Surfing
ride, the group agreed that although he had made the wave, no one would
want to try again.
How wrong they
were when just a few hours later other surfers, having heard of Phil's
feat, were out riding the "Pipeline" and amazingly enough ... living.
12 shot sequence,
reformated, top 1-3.
Pipeline, c 1964.
Volume 25 Number
1, page 30.
Volume 4 Number
(2013) : Bruce Brown : Phil Edwards at Pipeline, 1963