dora : angry young man, 1963
Rincon waves were just as good as good sixteen years ago as they are today.
There just weren't so many people to clutter up the place.
Matt Kilvin out in front of the break, on this "perfection" wave, looks surprisingly modern.
Its easy to see the results of his tremendous influence on style; just watch surfers like
Mickey Dora, or many of the others who were learning in the old days, and it"s obvious.
Compare this photograph, taken by Joe Quigg in 1947, with those supplementing this
month's feature story on Mickey Dora, if you're curious.
Conrad Canha, was actually one of the greatest hot-dogging
innovators in the development of surfing.
Here he performs brilliantly at Ala Moana.
This photograph gives a good idea of the manner in which
Ala Moana waves leap up when they hit the reef.
Note how much larger the wave appears immediately over Conrad's head.
MICKEY DORA: THE ANGRY YOUNG MAN OF SURFING
Mickey Dora is too strong a personality for many people to admire or approve of.
To say the least, he's controversial.
He's been around the sport for a long time- ever since the early fifties, and began with others who have since become famous in their own right.
He's a purist.
He loves the sport intelligently and lives his own life.
He's not locked-in.
Mickey has surfed more than half his twenty seven years and, perhaps, he has grown more with the sport than most . . . but in a slightly different direction.
At least this was the impression we retained after having interviewed the angry young man of surfing.
Mickey performs at Rincon.
accompanying this month's story of Mickey Dora are from his
personal collection and used with his permission.
... I still get jazzed when there are waves.
Guys who live at the beach get waterlogged and their brains get sick.
It's just like living in a ski resort: if you're there, you ski your brains out.
|If you feel this
way about commercialism what's your attitude
toward the Hollywood pictures you been in
I'm surfing in pictures because I like to work in them.
I've been in a dozen films so far, including 'King of the Mountain', with Marlon Brando and Davvid Niven; 'Gidget'; "Gidget Goes Hawaiian'; 'Gidget Goes to Rome'; 'Surfing Wild'; Beach Party", and 'For Those Who Think Young'.
Believe it or not I've been discovered six times this year.
They give you this . . 'you're the greatest ... we'll make millions out of you ...'
They had these ideas and I figured they were right.
Mickey Dora sits back and relaxes on the set during the filming of "Beach Party."
Mickey (behind candle) and johnny Fain (facing camera at Mickey's left) played several parts in the movie.
Mickey also doubled for Robert Cummings in the surfing sequences.
On one picture we went to Hawaii and lived on the North Shore for two and a half months.
We did something that had never been done before.
Big-wave riding was filmed in 35mm.
|It was murder.
When any group of people is together as much as we were, there's pressure.
After a couple of months, I began to get buggy' and the pressure began to tell.
They didn't know the difference between kona winds and offshore and I had to go through this surfboard talk with them.
On top of everything, they put me on a metra-cal diet because t had put on a little weight for the big surf.
I had to lose about twenty pounds in one month.
Well, as we all know, they had one of the biggest winters ever.
It scared hell out of me.
I couldn't sleep ... little things like their snoring began to bother me.
Luckily the kona winds blew about every other day and on those days I was able to sneak out into the bush and catch up on some sleep.
But then the tanks from the army base would go raring past in the night and I couldn't tell if the surf was getting huge, or it was an just another invasion.
Then I got up one ..
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