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surfer : yokahama bay,  1966. 

John Severson : Sunset Beach,  1961-1962.
Surfer
Volume 3 Number 3, August-September, 1962.

Introduction






Page 6
Pictorial Highlights from Sunset Beach, Hawaii, 1961-2.

Page 7

Last winter wasn't exceptional. In fact it wasn't even average.
The only worthwhile surf was wrapped up in a few days each at the Banzai Pipeline, Laniakea, Haleiwa, Waimea, and a handful of excellent surfs at Sunset Beach.
This wasn't much when you consider the previous winter with several months of consistent big surf - the outstanding giant days at Waimea Bay, the point surf at Makaha, and big days at Sunset Beach.

All was not as grim as it may sound.
The surf let loose shortly before Christmas and continued off and on until the third week of January.
The best Sunset Beach surf arrived In the period between a week before Christmas and the first week of January.
This was outstanding Sunset surf with more than just the hair-raising peak.
The shallow reefs were working and many a surfer caught himself in the breath-taking inside line up after already completing what would usually be plenty for Sunset Beach;

The usual crew turned in their usual excellent performances and these surfers included Ricky Grigg, Paul Gebauer. Kimo Hollenger, Jose Angel, Sammy Lee, and several other locals and ''haoles."
A few newcomers to Sunset who "shined" this year were Rusty Miller and Dave Willingham of California, as well as "Midget" Farrelly and Bob Pike of Australia.

On the following pages, a few of the outstanding moments of the 1961-62 season are recorded.
The variety of angles give you a small inkling of the power these Sunset Beach waves pack.
The initial drop is compared with having a trap door opened beneath you
 Your stomach often catches up to you before the ride is over.

Page 8

Three surfers in the breathtaking Sunset Beach drop.
Above: the waterangle shot of John Severson, editor of the SURFER Magazine.
Sunset Beach is one of John's favorite surfing spots in Hawaii.



Ray Beatty in another one of his predicaments.
Ray leans into the seemingly impossible wall and surprisingly made the wave.

Page 9

Rusty Miller starts his turn at the bottom of a small,
but still powerful Sunset Beach crusher.

Rusty turned in an outstanding performance at Sunset Beach this year
(he has been doing at almost every beach he rides.


Page 23
Down Under: North Narrabeen.
Photographs by Ron Perrott.

Colin Taylor drives across a long, left wall
at North Narrabeen in Australia.
His really locked-in on this perfectly shaped
"Narra" wave.


Riding likes there's no tomorrow is
Gordon Simpson.
Gordon is eyeing the wave in preparation
for a last final quasimoko-kamakazi type
pull-out.

Dave (Jacko-the Bombora) Jackman rides at the
bottom of this North Narrabeen crusher.

Jackman is noted for taking off in the most
critical possible positions.

At this point Jacko has himself in a pretty impossible position.
Situated in the center of the 20-mi!e strip of "Northern beaches" is North Narrabeen, a spot famous for its consistent, all-year surf.
"Narra* is at its best in the winter months (Australian winter - April through August}, when offshore winds combine with long, easterly swells to provide an almost perfect-shaped wave.
In a small surf, the right hand slide offers the most challenge.
However, when the surf gets over eight feet the situation is reversed and the left handers form into long, tubing walls with complete destruction awaiting the surfers in the shorebreak.
These top-to-boltom waves are up to a quarter of a mile long.
Narrabeen has become a yard slick for comparing other Sydney surf.
Most of the top surfers make a point of checking out North Narrabeen before looking elsewhere and the opinion of most surfers is that without "North Narra" things would be pretty grim.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Continued page 25.

Page 25


At a smaller size the North Narraheen "rights" are considered the quality wave of the northern beaches and "Midget" Farrelly is considered one of the quality surfers of Australia.

The "Midget" squats through a perfectly shaped "Narra" right.



Page 38
New Zealand - Paradise Found
 By John Severson

My first impression of New Zealand was that here is a country that has everything - some of the best skiing in the world - beautiful beaches - good surfing - lush, tropical, settings - ideal for sailing - warm hospitality - and an absence of the rushed atmosphere that prevails throughout most of the world.
After returning to California and thinking about it for a while, I'm still prepared to defend my original impression . . . here is a country that has everything.
 
The surf is untapped and with hundreds of miles of unexplored (for surfboarding) coastline, the potential is as great anywhere.
The best spot yet discovered is Piha on the north-west coast of the north island.
I was introduced to Piha by Tim Murdoch and John Paine, who build surfboards for the New Zealand Surfers.
These two fellows arranged a tour of the local surf spots.
Their welcome, hospitality, and enthusiasm rank with any I have yet received.
The drive to Piha is pleasant along fern lined highways and eventually a nine-mile dirt road climaxed by a breath-taking view of the New Zealand beaches that could be described only in cinemascope-type terms: colossal.
The black sand beaches stretch out between jutting ...


The "Camel," a massive landmark that shelters the Piha surf spot in New Zealand.
The Tasman sea whips up some rugged surfs, and fanned by the prevailing southwest winds, these waves move straight into Piha on the northwest coast of New Zealand.
The rocks jutting on the end of the "Camel" are called the "Bee Hive."


Page 39
The surf crashing off the "Bee Hive" dwarfs the rider,
who is preparing to shot the inside wall.

Although the outside wall off white water gives the
appearance of a tidal wave capable of destroying

the coastline, a good deal of its size is
attained by smashing against the rocks.


Photo by Tim Murdoch.

Page 46






14 surfboards and 15 surfers.
South Coast Surf Chasers,
South Australia.




32 surfboards, 35 surfers, and one dog.
Duke Dana's car, Ocean Beach, California.

South Coast Surf Chasers, Malibu Maniacs, Surf Seekers



22 boards and 22 surfers.
Chuck Worthing : Palm Valley, Byron Bay.


The board and body stacking contest continues with a full page of proof that there is no limit to what you can put in or on a surfing car.
The above shots were submitted by Dave "Doc" Smallacomb from South Australia and show the South Coast Surf Chasers, the Malibu Maniacs and the Surf Seekers, all armed for the weekend.
"Doc" claims the record for the "Chasers" with 14 surfboards and 15 surfers.
Doc's record did not last long, as Chuck Worthing of Brisbane, also in Australia, managed to come up with 22 boards and 22 bodies in a 1926 Chevrolet touring car.
Chuck's picture was taken at Palm Valley (The Pass, Byron Bay) as they were heading towards Wattego's beach.
Chuck's record did not last long, as an Ocean Beach photo by  Lee Peterson walked off with all the honors to date.
Lee captured a shot of Duke Dana's car, 35 surfers, 32 surfboards and one dog.
It's questionable as to how far they actually travelled with this load and their record maybe disputed.


Page 51


Rick Griffin.






Surfer
Volume 3 Number 3,
August-September 1962.


 


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Geoff Cater (2020) : Severson : Sunset Beach, 1962.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1962_08_Sunset_Surfer_v3n3.html