Severson : Sunset Beach, 1961-1962.Surfer Volume 3 Number 3, August-September, 1962.
Last winter wasn't exceptional. In fact it
wasn't even average.
The only worthwhile surf was wrapped up in a few days each
at the Banzai Pipeline, Laniakea, Haleiwa, Waimea, and a
handful of excellent surfs at Sunset Beach.
This wasn't much when you consider the previous winter with
several months of consistent big surf - the outstanding
giant days at Waimea Bay, the point surf at Makaha, and big
days at Sunset Beach.
All was not as grim as it may sound.
The surf let loose shortly before Christmas and continued
off and on until the third week of January.
The best Sunset Beach surf arrived In the period between a
week before Christmas and the first week of January.
This was outstanding Sunset surf with more than just the
The shallow reefs were working and many a surfer caught
himself in the breath-taking inside line up after already
completing what would usually be plenty for Sunset Beach;
The usual crew turned in their usual excellent performances
and these surfers included Ricky Grigg, Paul Gebauer. Kimo
Hollenger, Jose Angel, Sammy Lee, and several other locals
A few newcomers to Sunset who "shined" this year were Rusty
Miller and Dave Willingham of California, as well as
"Midget" Farrelly and Bob Pike of Australia.
On the following pages, a few of the outstanding moments of
the 1961-62 season are recorded.
The variety of angles give you a small inkling of the power
these Sunset Beach waves pack.
The initial drop is compared with having a trap door opened
Your stomach often catches up to you before the ride
surfers in the breathtaking Sunset Beach drop.
the waterangle shot of John Severson, editor
of the SURFER Magazine. Sunset Beach is one of
John's favorite surfing spots in Hawaii.
in another one of his predicaments. Ray leans into the
seemingly impossible wall and surprisingly
made the wave.
Rusty Miller starts his turn
at the bottom of a small,
but still powerful Sunset Beach crusher. Rusty turned in an
outstanding performance at Sunset Beach this
year (he has been doing at almost
every beach he rides.
Down Under: North Narrabeen.
Photographs by Ron
Colin Taylor drives across a
long, left wall at North Narrabeen in
Australia. His really locked-in on this
perfectly shaped "Narra" wave.
Riding likes there's no tomorrow is
Gordon is eyeing the wave in preparation
for a last final quasimoko-kamakazi type
Dave (Jacko-the Bombora) Jackman rides at the
bottom of this North Narrabeen crusher. Jackman is noted for taking off in the most
critical possible positions. At this point Jacko has himself in a pretty
Situated in the
center of the 20-mi!e strip of "Northern beaches" is North
Narrabeen, a spot famous for its consistent, all-year
"Narra* is at its best in the winter months (Australian
winter - April through August}, when offshore winds
combine with long, easterly swells to provide an almost
In a small surf, the right hand slide offers the most
However, when the surf gets over eight feet the situation
is reversed and the left handers form into long, tubing
walls with complete destruction awaiting the surfers in
These top-to-boltom waves are up to a quarter of a mile
Narrabeen has become a yard slick for comparing other
Most of the top surfers make a point of checking out North
Narrabeen before looking elsewhere and the opinion of most
surfers is that without "North Narra" things would be
Continued page 25.
At a smaller size the North Narraheen "rights" are
considered the quality wave of the northern
beaches and "Midget" Farrelly is considered one of
the quality surfers of Australia.
The "Midget" squats through a perfectly shaped
Zealand - Paradise
first impression of New
Zealand was that here is
a country that has
everything - some of the
best skiing in the world
- beautiful beaches -
good surfing - lush,
tropical, settings -
ideal for sailing - warm
hospitality - and an
absence of the rushed
atmosphere that prevails
throughout most of the
After returning to
California and thinking
about it for a while,
I'm still prepared to
defend my original
impression . . . here is
a country that has
The surf is untapped and
with hundreds of miles
of unexplored (for
the potential is as
The best spot yet
discovered is Piha on
the north-west coast of
the north island.
I was introduced to Piha
by Tim Murdoch and John
Paine, who build
surfboards for the New
These two fellows
arranged a tour of the
local surf spots.
enthusiasm rank with any
I have yet received.
The drive to Piha is
pleasant along fern
lined highways and
eventually a nine-mile
dirt road climaxed by a
breath-taking view of
the New Zealand beaches
that could be described
only in cinemascope-type
The black sand beaches
stretch out between
Piha surf spot
The Tasman sea
whips up some
fanned by the
Piha on the
jutting on the
end of the
off the "Bee
a tidal wave
a good deal of
its size is
Photo by Tim
15 surfers. South
and one dog. Duke
Dana's car, Ocean
boards and 22
board and body stacking
contest continues with a
full page of proof that
there is no limit to
what you can put in or
on a surfing car.
The above shots were
submitted by Dave
"Doc" Smallacomb from
South Australia and
show the South Coast
Surf Chasers, the
Malibu Maniacs and the
Surf Seekers, all
armed for the weekend.
"Doc" claims the
record for the
"Chasers" with 14
surfboards and 15
Doc's record did not
last long, as Chuck
Worthing of Brisbane,
also in Australia,
managed to come up
with 22 boards and 22
bodies in a 1926
Chevrolet touring car.
Chuck's picture was
taken at Palm Valley
(The Pass, Byron Bay)
as they were heading
Chuck's record did not
last long, as an Ocean
Beach photo by
Lee Peterson walked
off with all the
honors to date.
Lee captured a shot of
Duke Dana's car, 35
surfers, 32 surfboards
and one dog.
It's questionable as
to how far they
with this load and
their record maybe