national geographic : hawaii,
of Hawaii, pre-1924.
From : National Geograghic
Magazine February 1924 Volume XLV Number Two
The Hawiian Islands Page 12 Board Portrait photograph illustrating
an advertisment for the Hawaiian Tourist Bureau.
HEAD RISES IN THE DISTANCE
Few aquatic sports afford a thrill equal
to that of surf-riding. The swimmer with his surfboard, from 7 to 12 feet
in length and I 1/2 feet in width, works his way out through the .shallow
water over the fringing coral reef to where the high rollers rise. Selecting
his wave, he gets his boat under way by paddling furiously with his hands
and feet, and at the proper moment, mounting a high wave, throws himself
on the board just as it is seized by the force of the onrushing water,
which carries him with race-horse speed toward the beach.
Page 155. A commonly reproduced image of three
riders : one headstanding, one kneeling and one begining to stand.The image
is uncredited, highly unusual for this publication and has been reproduced
in other formats such as postcards.
See Scheiffer (1998), pages 14
Blackburn, (2001) page 19 (circa
1910) and page 21 (circa 1915 and credits the headstanding rider
as Duke Kahanamoku).
Colour Plate X : Riding
The Surf at Waikiki, Honolulu From a photograph by R. K. Bonine.
Three riders, two wearing
Outrigger Canoe Club swimming costumes.
Note that the photograph have been colourised
and the costumes may have been enhanced to give the image contrast.
From : National Geograghic Magazine February 1924 Volume XLV Number Two
The Hawiian Islands