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 griffiss : surfing hawaii, 1930 

Townsend Griffiss : Beaches and Surfing in Hawaii, 1930.
. When you go to Hawaii you will need this Guide to the Islands.
     : Houghton Mifflin Company,
Boston and New York, 1930.


Note that photographs are very poorly reproduced in the Hathitrust edition and are not included here.

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As we round Diamond Head, we first see the Elks' Club, which we all think is a hotel, then the new natatorium built into the ocean, Kapiolani Park, where the Aquarium is, and then Waikiki Beach, where you will undoubtedly spend a great deal of your time.
Not until after we are comfortably settled in our hotel are we going to bother our heads with anything.
The whole

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world can wait and we are going to do nothing but stand at the starboard rail and drink in with our eyes the sight of that incomparable coastline from Koko Head Around Diamond Head past Waikiki and on to the harbor.
As we go by the Moana and Royal Hawaiian Hotels, we can see, if it is not too early, the beach dotted with bathers enjoying to the utmost the warm rays of the sun.
Every now and then a figure will suddenly appear to stand upright on top of the water a few hundred yards from shore and go
sliding down a wave toward the beach.
This is surf-riding - the sport of kings.
And maybe we can see an outrigger canoe paddled by three or four men gracefully nose forward and go darting toward shore. And oh, how refreshing that water looks!

Just to the left of the pink Royal Hawaiian is a group of beach houses and hotels including Grays-by-the-Sea, the Halekulani, and the Edgewater Apartments.
To the left of the cluster of houses is the beginning of Fort DeRussy, one of the five coast artillery defense batteries on Oahu.
The others are Fort Ruger at Diamond Head, Fort Armstrong at the harbor entrance, and Forts Kamehameha and Weaver on opposite sides of the entrance to Pearl Harbor.
At Fort DeRussy there is a splendid swimming-float and divingplatform that we are cordially invited to make use of.
Don't forget to do it!

Immediately past the Fort is another group of beach hotels, the most famous being the newly appointed Niumalu.
Of all the places on the island of Oahu this particular section has retained the old Hawaiian atmosphere in its most original state better than any other spot.
Our boat slows down and soon stops, and the harbor pilot, quarantine officials, press men, and others clamber over the rail. Some of the 'others' have leis, Hawaiian wreaths of flowers, for friends, and we are somewhat envious, but our turn will come when we dock.

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Over the saddle is Schofield Barracks, and farther on toward the north shore is Haleiwa.
What's all the commotion on the other side of the boat?
Fish, turtles, or what? No, the swimming boys, and if they are not part fish, they are pretty close to it.
Brown as berries and not all from birth.
See the lighter color at the edge of their scanty bathing-trunks.
This tropical sun will do the same for you if you give it a fair chance.
See them

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all struggling for the coins tossed from the deck.
Out goes a nickel into the air watched by a score of native eyes.
It strikes the blue, clear water, and we see the white soles of many feet pointing toward the sky as the boys force themselves downward after the fleeing coin.
In no time up they come, and by the smile on one of their faces you know that the nickel is safely deposited in that face's mouth. Don't begrudge the boys their little sport, but remember that Hawaii's charms lie in her ancient sports and customs, and perhaps your offering will help develop a future Duke Kahanamoku.

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Where to stay in Honolulu is as important to us now as where to go will be later.
There are accommodations to fit all pocketbooks, and as ours are not all equally well filled, we must resort to an illustration with dollars and cents.
But let me urge you to do one thing.
Go to the beach at Waikiki if you are just visiting and settle down as close to the water as you possibly can.
Make the beach your headquarters and radiate from there.
To be able upon rising in the morning to jump into your bathing-suit and in a moment be basking on the beach or enjoying a refreshing dip is worth much.
But you were going to do it anyway, so why need I say more?

Just as a matter of convenience and comparison here are the hotels with their minimum daily rates for single rooms.
Special arrangements are made for the week or month.

WAIKIKI - On the beach
Gray's........$4.50 American plan - Kalia Road on the water.
Halekulani...... 5.00 American plan - Kalia Road on the water.
Louidor....... 2.50 American plan - Beach Walk, 3 minutes from beach.
Moana......... 8.00 American plan - Kalakaua Avenue on the water.
Niumalu........ 5.00 American plan - Kalia Road on the water
Royal Hawaiian. 14.00 American plan - Kalakaua Avenue on the water.
Seaside......... 5.00 American plan - Kalakaua Avenue across from Royal Hawaiian.
Waikiki Tavern. 1.50 European plan - Kalakaua Avenue on the water.

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A free listing-service for houses, rooms, and apartments is maintained by the
[Tourist] Bureau, through which we may without charge find accommodations outside of regular hotels.
Furnished cottages, bungalows, and apartments consisting of living-room, kitchen, bathroom, and one bedroom, can be had for $50 a month upward.
For a similar arrangement with two bedrooms the prices are from $75 up.
Sometimes it is possible to find rooms in private homes

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for periods of a month or more.
Rents for such places are from $20 to $30 a month.

The charm of having a cottage on the beach is that, if you are so inclined, it is but a moment's walk to any one of three cafes and six hotels - the Waikiki Tavern, Ritz Grill, Seaside Cafe, Moana Hotel, Royal Hawaiian, Gray's, Halekulani, Louidor, and the Niumalu.
And before long there will be another hotel on Ala Wai, the canal road, which will be just what Waikiki has needed for many a day
- a European-plan hotel.


Warm perfumes like a breath from vine and tree
Drift down the darkness. Plangent, hidden from eyes,
Somewhere an eukaleli thrills and cries
And stabs with pain the night's brown savagery.
And dark scents whisper; and dim waves creep to me,
Gleam like a woman's hair, stretch out, and rise;
And new stars burn into the ancient skies,
Over the murmurous soft Hawaiian sea.'

Rupert Brooke wrote these lines of 'Waikiki' when he visited here on a trip to the South Seas in 1913.
The same moon, stars, waves, and perfumes that inspired him are here to enthrall us with their magic beauty.

Beloved of world-travelers and famed for its tropic splendor, Waikiki lies basking in the warmth of the MidPacific sun.
No beach in the world is so widely known or of so much interest to people of all nationalities alike.
Its effervescent water, which averages 78~ the year round, laps the enchanting shore in a manner that fairly draws one to its warm embrace.
Its bathing and surfboard-riding, its soft languorous nights lighted by the wonder of the tropical moon, the Hawaiian music with ukuleles and steel guitars, all combine to welcome and attract the visitor from every clime.

Waikiki is only three and a half miles from Honolulu's center of activity and is quickly reached by automobile or convenient street-car.
Here are located the Moana and new Royal Hawaiian Hotels as well as many other comfortable establishments.
We have already decided that the beach is to be our rendezvous, and from here our expeditions to various places of interest will radiate.

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The beach at Waikiki is honored in song and story more than any other place in the Islands.
For years it was the abode of kings and high chiefs who, with their courts and followers, established themselves so comfortably in the languid atmosphere of this tropical heaven.
Frequently in the reports of the early navigators and traders the name of Waikiki appeared, and this was even before the day that
Kamehameha the Great undertook the conquest of the Oahuans.
As with the conqueror, let Waikiki be the first to welcome us to the hospitable shores of Oahu.
For that purpose the Royal Hawaiian terrace, the Moana Pier, or even the beach itself would be admirable.

It has been said that 'Waikiki Beach is a sentiment and not a locality.'
Fortunate indeed is the visitor who is spending but a short time in the Islands and can place himself at once in that frame of mind. What we want to see is that wide beautiful cream-white curve of beach that appears so intriguingly on the folders and in the advertisements, that started our thoughts wandering across the Pacific.
Much to our surprise, and- should I say? - disappointment, the beach is small in area, and only its curved form fits into our mental picture.
To us it is a 'locality' and will not become a 'sentiment' for some time.
Honolulu is struggling to develop into a modern and up-to-date city capable of taking care of the thousands of yearly visitors who land on her shores.
Compared to Waikiki and the beach the city of Honolulu is incidental to the majority of travelers, and as the tourist trade is the third largest industry in the Islands, surpassed only by sugar and pineapples, a little attention given to the beach and a systematic attempt to clear away the coral close to the shore would be very much in order.
Now, do not get angry with me or discouraged with Waikiki for what I have said, for, in the first place, you want to know about things as they are, and, in the second

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place, all your troubles will disappear in the glory of Waikiki as it is to-day.
Your happiest moments will be spent basking in the sun while acquiring, with the aid of the muchneeded cocoanut oil, a beautiful coat of tan.
The name Waikiki means 'spouting waters' and brings mental pictures of lazy rolling surf, gayly hued bathing-suits, beautiful women, and robust native surf-riders dashing at terrific speed toward the shore.
Beware that the all too precious hours do not slip past before you know it!

In April of 1795, Kamehameha I, King of Hawaii, Maui, and Molokai, sailed across the channels to the island of Oahu with a vast fleet of outrigger war canoes, called the 'Peleleu Fleet.'
Kamehameha's combined force numbered around fifteen thousand men, including many seasoned warriors of his previous campaigns.
In his service were sixteen foreigners, two of whom we know by name - John Young and Isaac Davis.
These two Englishmen were in command of the artillery division, which did such fine work in the battle fought later in Nuuanu Valley.

In ancient times Waikiki Bay possessed the only location for the anchorage of vessels, on account of its foundation and sandy beach, ideal for the landing of small boats.
Kamehameha chose this spot to land his forces on, and the conqueror stepped ashore very near where the Outrigger Canoe Club is now.
His immense fleet of canoes extended from our position on Waikiki clear along the crescent coastline and past Diamond Head to Waialae, where the new Golf Club is located.
Kamehameha established his court and headquarters close to the beach and prepared for the advance against the Oahuans under King Kalanikupule.
As we shall see later, Kamehameha pursued the Oahuans up into Nuuanu Valley and forced them into defeat over'the famous Pali.

The Hawaiians have always been keenly alive to all forms

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of physical competition and, until the foreigners assumed a leading role in Island affairs, they spent much of their time in some athletic sport.
Boxing, or Mokomoko, was a favorite national game.
It was regulated by certain rules, umpires were appointed, and the victor defended his title against all comers.
Wrestling and foot races were also popular among the natives.
It is said that the King's heralds were often able to make the three-hundred-mile circuit of the island of Hawaii over very rough trails in eight or nine days.
A common game among the warriors was one in which spears were thrown at the contestant to be parried by him.
It was an accomplishment to be able to ward off several weapons hurled at once, and many prided themselves on their ability to do so.
Kamehameha was skilled to perfection in this sport, and at the base of his statue in front of the Royal Palace there is a tablet picturing him defending himself from attack.

Another sport indulged in by all was what might be called 'summer tobogganing.'
It consisted in sliding down steep hills over carefully prepared shoots on a flat board called the 'papa holua.'
This game was not only exhilarating but extremely dangerous, for immense velocity was attained and getting off the track meant an awful crash.
Several of the old slides, now somewhat obscured, are over a half-mile in length.
There was one on Waikiki side of Diamond Head, and another, much longer, on the slopes in rear of the city.
In a modified form the sport is still in practice on Mount Tantalus.
Large ti leaves are used as sleds, and the chutes are grassy slopes running for several hundred feet.
Of course the most popular of all were the sea sports, in which the Hawaiians have no equals on earth.
Honohonu was a game in which the natives swam with the hands only, the feet being either tied or fast interlocked.
Another diversion was the leleawa, in which the natives leapt into the sea

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from high precipices.
Seldom did they enter into any serious contest without wagering a bet of some sort.
The natives were born gamblers, and food, clothing, ornaments, wives, and daughters were often won or lost as the result of
some simple contest.

The premier sport of all was the heenalu, or riding the surfboard.
This superb art has an origin closely related to ancient pagan prayers and ceremonials originated by the priests or native Kahunas.
Every one, including kings, high chiefs, and commoners, was deeply interested in the sport, and frequently with royal initiative festivals and surfboardraces and competitions were held at Waikiki.
Each island had its champions, men and women also, around whom beautiful legends have been woven and passed on from one
generation to the next.
Heenalu has often been called the 'sport of kings,' and well does it deserve its name, not only because it was a favorite pastime of the nobility, but on account of its being the sport of all sports which would make any king that ever lived proud to be its master.
In olden days there were two kinds of surfboards, one called the olo and the other alaia.
The olo was made of wood from the Wiliwili tree, very light and buoyant, about eighteen feet long, three feet wide, and from six to eight inches thick at the middle.
This type of board was for the use of royalty and high chiefs only.
Two such boards belonging to High Chief Paki are seen at the entrance to the Bishop Museum.
The common people used the alaia, made from the koa tree and the ulu, or breadfruit tree.
In length and width it was similar to the olo, but at the center it was not more than two inches thick.
Great care was necessary in shaping the boards, as the balance had to be perfect for proper manipulation and for safety.

In making a board certain rites and ceremonies were followed from the time the wood was cut from the tree up to

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its final acceptance.
Professional board-makers were very particular about each little point, for to them the winning of a race or surf-riding event meant more trade for the board's designer.

As we have said, the art of surfing gradually died out after the coming of the foreigner.
The Hawaiian-born not only failed to talk about it, but they completely forgot about it.
Then just when this manly sport was about to end its glorious career, along came Mr. Alexander Hume Ford, of the 'Chicago Tribune,' and with the energy of an electric dynamo he 'talked' the sport into a popularity that it had not enjoyed for years. Through his efforts the world-famed Outrigger Club was organized in 1908, an organization with moderate dues for all and every one.
To-day it has developed into the finest of athletic clubs, with hundreds of members and representatives the world over.
Although its members have athletic teams in every sport, the Club specializes in the arts of the sea and has developed many a
swimmer of Olympic caliber.

As we watch the 'boys' glide swiftly on their boards through the water, it appears easy and simple and we cannot wait to take a try at it ourselves.
The wonderful surf for which the Islands are far-famed is caused by the coral reefs and the comparatively shallow water between them and the shore.
The swimmer takes a position at the line of breakers and waits for the proper surf.
The surf-riders never take the first one in because of its rough front and they often allow three or four to pass and smooth the way for their lightning-like ride toward the shore.
It is an art that is developed to a high degree and requires a great deal of practice and patience before one has mastered even the

For beginners it is most advisable to become acquainted with the intricacies of the sport by riding the 'Wahine' surf

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near shore.
The hardest thing to do is to mount the board and propel it fast enough to catch the oncoming wave as it speeds by.
Skillful manipulation is required to keep the board just abreast of the crest of the wave, but, once mastered, the feat of standing up is accomplished with little or no trouble.
The surfboards in use to-day are a great deal smaller and lighter than the type used by the ancient Hawaiians.
Until recent years it was the custom to ride the waves with the board perpendicular to the crest, that is, coming straight in on the wave, but then it was found that greater speed could be acquired by sliding along the crest one way or the other.
It is a beautiful sight to see a bronzed rider, standing upright on his board, dash toward the shore at terrific speed and without the slightest effort change the direction of his inward path from one side to the other.
And then there are those who are able to master the feat with a companion perched high upon their shoulders.
Others come sliding gracefully up to the beach standing upon their heads, and maybe right alongside of them is some one racing toward land and going through the motions of a hula.
It does look so simple!

Grief often comes to the best of them, however, as some day you will see.
The great surf off Waikiki is called Holehuawehe, now often referred to as the 'Queen Surf' because it rolled toward the beach home of the late Queen Liliuokalani.
When the surf is exceptionally fine, dozens of skilled riders may be seen making their way out to where the waves form.
As we have seen, three or more waves are allowed to pass, and then at the approach of the right one they all paddle furiously with hands and feet.
Some catch the wave, stand up, and shoot majestically toward the beach.
Others, a little too slow, are left astride their boards to wait for the next, while a few have been imperiled by letting go of their boards, which usually nose-dive and, strik

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ing bottom, leap clear out of the water with terrific force.
It is thrilling to watch, but a thousand times more so to be out there.

Riding the surf in outrigger canoes does not call for quite as much individual boldness, but it is more exciting than surfboarding because more are able to do it at the same time.
Some of the canoes are forty feet in length with a capacity of from ten to twelve.
Long and narrow, they are steadied on the left by outriggers, which are two curved timbers called the iaku, their outer side being fastened to the long horizontal float of wiliwili, known as the ama.
There is one beautiful canoe in the outrigger sheds that is over a hundred years old.
Most of the hulls are painted a dead black with a royal-yellow inch rail, giving an appearance of savage warlikeness which makes us think how wonderfully impressive the landing of the Peleleu Fleet must have been.

The canoes that we see at the beach are much smaller than the ones used by the ancient Hawaiians in their wanderings about the group.
From the fact that canoes are carved from the trunk of a single koa tree it is remarkable to think that some of these boats were over seventy feet long and about three feet wide and deep and could carry sixty or seventy warriors.
The early Polynesians often made double canoes by lashing two together and decking over the space between them.
In their journeys covering hundreds of miles these hardy people depended upon their knowledge of the food of the sea at all seasons for their existence.
They were guided over the vast expanse of water by a crude but working knowledge of astronomy and were inspired by traditions of mysterious lands far beyond the horizon.
It is true, however, that we hear only about those who landed upon the shores of Hawaii, and nothing is ever said about the hun

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dreds who perished in a bold attempt to span the two thousand miles of the South Seas.
Surf-riding in a canoe embodies the same principles as that of surfboarding, the steerer directing the crew when to paddle and when not to.
The most thrilling seat in a canoe is right at the bow, for in going out it seems as if you were about to be plunged straight through the middle of an incoming wave, and when riding the surf toward shore the canoe tips forward, and besides being thoroughly splashed you expect at any moment to be driven straight to the bottom in a most spectacular nose-dive.
Those who wish to learn the art of surfboard-riding have every opportunity here at Waikiki.
Boards and canoes can be rented at the Moana Bathhouse and from the Outrigger Club, and under the able direction of the 'beach boys' it is not long before you are having the thrill of a lifetime.
Years ago, before the Waikiki Canal was dredged to drain the swamps, the stream from the mountains used to empty into the ocean between the Outrigger Club and the Moana Hotel.
After heavy rains the water would rush with some speed to meet the surf, and boys used to take their surfboards and ride them for several hundred feet down the stream and out into the ocean.

The beautiful hau tree at the Outrigger Club has often been the inspiration of artists, and many have attempted to place it on canvas.
Some day watch it intently for several minutes and notice how the sunlight and shadows dance about in its foliage.
Diamond Head is also deceptive, changing in shape and outline according to the fancies of sun and clouds.
Diamond Head received its name from the fact that many years ago visiting sailors discovered small calcite crystals on its slopes and thought them to be diamonds.
As we sit on the beach, it is quite probable that we shall see a small depression on the ledge of the crater and

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very near the peak. It is said that at one time this was the setting for a gorgeous diamond which was snatched away by an angry god.

The cosmopolitan gathering on the beach at Waikiki has not a match anywhere in the world.
People of every nationality and color flock to enjoy the wonders of this earthly paradise.
The Islands lie at the northern edge of the Torrid Zone in about the same latitude as Cuba, but the climate is semi-tropical rather than tropical and is several degrees cooler than any other country in the same belt.
This is caused by the northeast ocean currents and by the trade winds.
The trades blow steadily for fully nine months of the year, and during the remaining three even Hawaii has its bad spells of southwest storms known as kona, or southerly weather.
But, taken all in all, the temperature excels for its equableness, averaging about 73
[degrees], rarely rising above 86[degrees] or falling below 60[degrees].
However, it does get hot, it does get cold, and it does rain more than mere 'liquid sunshine.'
The charms of Waikiki do not end with the setting sun, but, in many instances, they just begin.
Waikiki by moonlight is something that must be experienced and not read about.
The golden glow of a tropical moon, silhouetting the bathers enjoying the softly languorous night, the faint strumming of ukuleles and guitars in the hands of expert players, accompanied by the falsetto and slurring voices of native singers, all help to make the beach a sentiment and not a locality.

The Sunday evening concerts at the Moana Hotel must not be missed for anything.
The beautiful setting of courtyard and banyan tree, through the branches of which the tropical moon shines to illuminate faintly the musicians, is something that will long remain as one of your most cherished memories.


You will probably be unable to tear yourself away from the beach during the morning, but we'll plan to start on our expedition not later than half-past two.
From then on is the best part of the day for driving, and we will return in time for a short rest before dinner.
And if to-night there should be a full moon, we surely must be in shape for a stroll out on to the Moana Pier to listen bewitched to the 'beach boys' and their music.

This section of Waikiki, now covered with hotels, houses, and cafes, used to be dotted with the beach houses of royalty and their friends, a haven of retreat from the oppressive heat of the 'town' or from the rains in the valleys.
They all came with relatives, friends, and visitors to enjoy the cool breezes of Waikiki and the refreshing waters of the surf.
Years and years ago when the beach at Waikiki was truly a wonder of the world, the famous old Seaside Hotel was the place of rendezvous.
Situated on ground now occupied by the Royal Hawaiian, its accommodations were mostly of canvas with here and there a weather-beaten old palm cottage used during the monarchy as some royal retreat.
Here it was that Kamehameha V, Prince Lot, had his beach house made of pandanus leaves and lama wood.
In old days this wood was sacred to the construction of temples

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and idols, and as a mark of dignity the house was called 'Lama House.'

The cottages were built fairly into the sea, there being but a slight width of grass and glorious beach separating them from the water.
Those were the days when one literally and figuratively jumped from one's bed into the surf and then basked in the morning sun for a few minutes before breakfast.
These tropical castles-by-the-sea were eventually replaced by more modern and convenient wooden cottages, which were built farther back from the beach.

About on the spot now covered by the dining-room of the Royal Hawaiian used to be the main building of the Seaside.
It was a large frame house extending half over the water and with a spacious lanai.
The kitchen, bar, private dining-room, and reception hall, gorgeously decorated with Chinese carvings, were in a rambling one-storied house adjoining the main building.
Between its circular lanai and the water grew two large hau trees about the bases of which were round wooden platforms where drinks were served.

The Seaside was always gay and festive on dance nights, when many dinner-parties were given.
The arrival of a Uhited States Army Transport was the signal for much entertainment, and every one attended the Aloha Dance,
then called the 'Transport Night Dance,' at the Seaside.
The lanai would be cleared of dining-tables and the floor prepared for the dancers.
Tables and chairs would be placed out on the grass, where the dancers could rest and sip their drinks between numbers.
Many colored Chinese lanterns would be hung on the lanai and out among the trees, casting forth a subtle and flickering light. The music was the soft strum of guitars and ukuleles, in the hands of Honolulu's best Hawaiian musicians.
And such music!
An Hawaiian simply

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must give vent to his feelings, and their mellow, slurring voices singing a favorite hula would lift the dancers to their feet and carry them to lands of dreams.

But the Seaside's days were numbered, for two years ago the cottages were moved across the avenue to make room for the new Royal Hawaiian and the old frame building was destroyed.
To-day, in its new form, it is a very popular and comfortable beach hostelry, having a most convenient adjoining cafe, not only for its guests, but for transients as well.
Years ago before the Moana was built there used to be a bathhouse nestled among the hau trees, and called 'Long Branch.'
It was not a hotel nor a boarding-house nor a restaurant, but simply a bathhouse.
In those days it was something of an undertaking to drive by horse and carriage

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from Honolulu to the beach at Waikiki, and Long Branch was usually the destination.

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A short way past the Tavern is the beginning of a stone wall protecting Kalakaua Avenue from the sea.
Almost any moonlit night calls forth the native musicians, who, atop the wall, sing to their hearts' content, accompanied by the strains of the guitar, ukulele, and steel.
These boys are known as the 'stonewall gang' in contrast to the 'beach boys' of Waikiki.
The latter rule the beach, and woe betide any stonewaller who trespasses with his wares.

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Besides entering the World War by giving liberally to all calls for funds, during the Liberty Loan campaign, Hawaii was more than generous with her sons.
As a tribute to her war heroes the Territory built a War Memorial Natatorium by subscription, a magnificent structure costing nearly $250,000.
It is an outdoor salt-water pool, forty by one hundred and ten yards, built into the sea a short way past the Aquarium, and it has concrete bleachers capable of seating about six thousand people.
Completed last year in time for the international meet of swimmers held in August, it was immediately recognized as the finest outdoor pool in the world.
After a dedicatory address by Governor Farrington, Duke Kahanamoku, of Olympic fame, who, after several years' absence, had returned for the occasion, officially opened the natatorium with an exhibition swim.
Hawaii's ex-champion swimmer

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still has form and plenty of speed, and his dash across the pool brought many an old kamaaina to his feet with shouts of joy. Many world's records were broken during the threeday meet, and a new local champion was recognized.
Clarence (Buster) Crabbe, of the Outrigger Canoe Club, covered himself with honor and paved his way for the next Olympics.
If you are ever at the games, keep a lookout for Buster and greet him with a good, hearty 'Aloha.'

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In 1889, Charles R. Bishop founded the Museum as a memorial to his wife.
'A bright light among her people, her usefulness survives her earthly life.'
As one of the Kamehamehas the Princess inherited a great part of the regalia that we shall see in the cloak-room, and with this exhibit as a beginning the Museum quickly expanded into its present state of extreme interest.

At the entrance to the building are two surfboards that were used by High Chief Paki to ride the surf at Waikiki.
They are much longer, narrower, and a great deal heavier than the ones used to-day and required tremendous strength properly to catch the wave on its journey toward the shore.

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In the days of the small coastal vessels plying along the shore, Laupahoehoe was an important center of commerce.
The surf is always high here, and as landings were made from small boats, it required great dexterity on the part of the native crew to land passengers and supplies successfully and to load the valuable bags of sugar.
This old village was formerly the home of a famous Hawaiian King named Umi.

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On the return along Kauai's southern coast and just before reaching Kalaheo, we swing to the right off the beaten path and climb into Kukuilono Park.
Mr. W. D. McBryde has created here an exquisite elysium with a colorful Japanese landscape well deserving of being called 'The Torch of Lono.'
The view of the fertile valleys and scenic coastline has inspired many to explore the more inaccessible regions of the southeast shore.

A narrow dirt road winds its way down the south slope of the Park, through pineapple- and cane-fields to the inexpressibly beautiful Lawai Beach.
This charming cove is the answer to all our dreams of a South Sea Island retreat.
Tall cocoanut palms grow at the edge of a splendid beach, while inland cultivated foliage lends its color to the purely tropical setting.
Years ago Queen Emma lived here, and the location of her grass hut is proudly pointed out.
The estate is now a part of the McBryde holdings, and, with the comfortable modern bungalow built among the trees,

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makes one most envious.
By courtesy of the owners, visitors wishing to enjoy the brilliant surf are welcome to use the private dressing-rooms and showers which have been erected close to the beach.
It seems as if Pele were ever present in some form or other.
This time we are aware of the Fire Goddess by being told by our guide that on the highlands to the west is an old crater that was her home while she was searching throughout Kauai for that elusive lover.

. When you go to Hawaii you will need this Guide to the Islands.
  Houghton Mifflin Company,
Boston and New York, 1930.


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Geoff Cater (2016) : Townsend Griffiss : Beaches and Surfing in Hawaii, 1930.