| home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |
 |
surfresearch.com.au
sibley : surf sleds and
boards, 1928
|
 |
and Boards Simple
Ways to Build
By HI SIBLEY Fig.
1.
|
Persistence
and
enthusiasm are required to master this exciting sport; it is
matter of
catching the right roller at right time- of climbing aboard
just the comber
is going over.
One can
learn
by practice better than by being told how to do it, but to
start with one
must have a suitable surf board or surf sled.
A sled
requires
a little more work to construct, but it will give the less
skilled or less
daring bather a sure-fire ride on the crest of the foam.
Both types
are
illustrated.
Surf boards
are
made in a large variety of styles to suit individual tastes,
but the one
which has proved the most successful on the breakers of
southern California
is the light plywood model shown in Fig. 1.
This
illustrates
a boy's size- about 4 1/2 ft. long.
A drawing at
the bottom of Fig. 3 shows how to make its adult prototype.
A plywood
board
is desirable because of its lightness and the fact that it
is not likely
to split or warp.
It may be
purchased
from any cabinetmaker and from many lumber yards.
A
three-layer
piece about 1/2 in. thick is satisfactory, although a
thicker piece of
five-ply wood will make a more substantial board.
Saw the
outlines
as shown with a good keyhole or turning saw.
A sharp saw
with
comparatively fine teeth is to be preferred, as there will
be less likelihood
of tearing the wood.
The hand
slot
is made by boring two 3/4-in. holes about 5 in. apart and
sawing out between
them. The slot is only for convenience in carrying the
board; it is not
used in the surf.
The rider
grips
the sides of the board where he can shift his grip or let it
go entirely
if disaster looms.
 |
Fig.
2.
The surf sled can be used in any sea not too dangerous for ordinary bathing. The rider holds himself by the handgrips or lies flat on the deck. In Fig. 3 is shown a slightly improved design. |
As the
plywood
usually has a beautiful grain, a natural finish with spar
varnish produces
the most
attractive
appearance.
First,
however,
paint in your star at the forward end.
Brilliant
vermilion,
or bright green with an out-line of gold, is effective.
On one board
the writer made a gold-leaf star with green border.
It is a good
idea to b put your initials and address at the lower end
of the board,
for anything as much in demand as a surf board has a
tendency to wander
from the home strand.
Because the
lower
end is cut to fit the body, the bather is able to walk out
facing the surf
and looking for an accommodating wave (Fig. 4).
When it
comes
he quickly swings the light board around and climbs aboard
for a swift
and merry trip.
Take great
care
that the nose of the board is always tilted up.
If it goes
down
and likes the sand, with a big breaker behind, painful
injury may result.
 |
Fig.
3.
The surf sled is a frame of light white pine covered with galvanised iron; the surf board merely sawed from plywood. (Images adjusted) |
This type
of sled
is fairly light for a grown person to manage, but it is not
the thing for
a youngster to tackle, except in moderate seas, because of
the tremendous
force with which waves may strike it broadside.
Note that
all
edges and corners are rounded, so that if one has a spill
and is struck
by his mount, it will not leave any appreciable dents.
The vital
importance
of removing all protruding angles was learned after several
beginners had
become conspicuously bruised by screw eyes used in our first
model.
The proper
way
to maneuver the surf sled is to walk into the surf at right
angles, towing
the sled behind you by the sash cord provided for that
purpose.
It will
slide
over the oncoming breakers easily if the stern is lifted
slightly.
Use light
white
pine for the framework and fasten it with flat-head wood
screws, well countersunk.
The ...
(Continued
on page 98)
|
Fig.
4.
The light plywood surf board is easy to handle. The lower end is cut so as to fit the body. The bather takes this position when walking out into the surf. |
Before
setting
the sheet metal, paint the edges of the side boards with
white lead and
lay a strip of muslin or electrician's tape the entire
length, taking care
that there are no folds or wrinkles.
Cover this
with
a coat of white lead.
Then fasten
the
galvanized iron with nails about 3/4 in. long, staggered
about 1 in. apart.
Drive them
in
well; then depress the edges of the metal into the wood
(Fig. 3).
The cleats over the places where the galvanized sheets join each other should be drawn down tightly with screws, but first nail the ends of the sheets to the crosspieces to make the joints water-tight.
Follow your
own
taste in painting and trimming; green with orange striping
is effective.
In any case,
be sure the first coat dries thoroughly before applying the
second.
Several
coats
of spar varllish will add to the life of the sled.
 |
Popular Science Magazine Volume 112 Number 6, June 1928, pages 79 and 96. |
| home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |