surfresearch.com.au
john fisher anderson : surf riding at waikiki, 1922
john fisher anderson : surf riding at waikiki, 1922
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john fisher anderson : surf riding at waikiki, 1922 |
[on Kauai]
Leaving the
main
road at Koloa, I spent a delightful night on the seashore
and after a dip
in the surf.
I had a
splendid
sleep on a bed of pine needles on the volcanic rock near the
Spouting Horn,
which is a curious rock formation where the waves
rush into
lava
tubes and force the water high up into the air in geyser
fashion.
Page 95
Of my six
months
in seeing Uncle Sam's new territory, four of them were
wonderfully spent
on the Island of Oahu, in and around Honolulu.
The world
famed
surf-riding at Waikiki Beach, was delightfully enjoyed many
times on a
surf board of beautiful Hawaiian mahogany.
With the
temperature
of the air at about 70 degrees, I would push and
Page 96
tow my
rented
board from the sandy beach while the cocoanut palms, so
slender and graceful,
seemed to watch as I, with natives and tourists, swam out to
sea and then
rode back on the incoming surf.
Sometimes I
was
riding the board and other times it was riding me, but it
was grand mid-winter
sport in a land where the meaning of the word winter is
unknown.
Page 96
Waikiki
Beach
has the "ol' swimmin' hole" beaten forty ways.
Page 98
The native
Hawaiians
easily become splendid swimmers.
However,
surf-riding
has developed expert riders from the ranks of visitors.
The
temperature
of the water at the beaches permits bathing every month in
the year.
 |
Seeing Hawaii on American Pluck Times-Mirror Press, Los Angeles, 1922.
|
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