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beckwith : laieikawai, 1918 |
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In Kualii, the
poet wishes to express the idea that all the sea belongs to the god Ku.
He therefore
enumerates the different kinds of sea, with their locality -
the sea for
surf riding,
the sea for
casting the net,
the sea for
going naked,
the sea for
swimming,
the sea for
surf riding sideways,
the sea for
tossing up mullet,
the sea for
small crabs,
the sea of
many harbors,
etc.,
Page 343
The Jiuia is a specially high wave formed by the meeting of two crests, and is said to be characteristic of the surf at Kaipalaoa, Hawaii.
Page 355
Meanwhile Kaeha
is carried away by spirits to Lewanuu and Lewalani where Kane and Kanaloa
live, and Kauhi goes in search of him.
On the way he
defeats and breaks into bits the opposing surfs and the dog Kuililoloa,
hence surf and dogs remain small.
Page 340
The place of surf
riding in Hawaiian song and story reflects its popularity as a .sport.
It inspires chants
to charm the sea into good surfing - an end also attained by lashing the
water with the convolvulus vine of the sea beach; forms the background
for many an amorous or competitive adventure; and leaves a number of words
in the language descriptive of the surfing technique or of the surf itself
at particular localities famous for the sport, as, for example, the "Makaiwa
crest" in Jloikeha's chant, or the " Huia " of this story.
Three kinds of
surfing are indulged in — riding the crest in a canoe, called pa lea
toaa; standing or lying flat upon a board, which is cut long, rounded
at the front end and square at the back, with slightly convex surfaces,
and highly polished; and, most difficult feat of all, riding the wave without
support, body submerged and head and shoulders erect.
The sport begins
out where the high waves form.
The foundation
of the wave, honva, the crest side, muku, and the rear,
lala, are all distinguished.
The art of the
surfer lies in catching the crest by active paddling and then allowing
it to bear him in swift as a race horse to the hua, where the wave
breaks near the beach.
All swimmers
know that three or four high waves follow in succession.
As the first
of these, called the kulaiia, is generally "a high crest which rolls
in from end to end of the beach
and falls over
bodily," the surfer seldom takes it, but waits for the ohu or opuu,
which is " low, smooth and strong."
For other details,
see the article by a Hawaiian from Kona, published in the Hawaiian Annual,
1896, page 106.
Page 362,
He then makes
Kukuipahu king over Maui and goes on to Oahu, where Kakuhihewa hastens
to make peace. One day when Makolea is out surf riding, ...
Page 363
... messengers of the king of Kauai, Kaikipaananea, steal her away and she becomes this king's wife. Kepakailiula follows her to Kauai and defeats the king in boxing.
Page 370
The chief of Puna seduces her, then, after a reconciliation, the Kohala chief, Kumoho, wins her affection. Halemano dies of grief, and his spirit appears to his sister as she is surfing in the Makaiwi surf at Wailua,Kauai. She restores him to life with a chant.
Page 376
Koolau, not knowing it is the girl's doing, re- ...
Page 375
... ports his
friend to the king, and he and his wife decide that Pamano must die.
They entice him
in from surf riding, get him dunk with awa in spite of his spirit
sisters' warnings, and chop him to pieces.
The sisters restore
him to life.
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