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william castle  : surf riding in hawai'i, 1917 

William R. Castle, Jr. :  Surf riding in Hawai'i, 1917.

Extracts and photograph from
Castle, Jr., William R.:
Hawaii - Past and Present
Dodd, Mead and Company, New York, 1917.
Revised and enlarged edition.

Open Library
http://openlibrary.org/books/OL6595020M/Hawaii_past_and_present


Introduction.
This


Page 20 [facing]

HAWAIIAN SURF RIDING

Page 23

The Hawaiians were a sport-loving people.
Boxing, wrestling, foot racing, and bowling with  polished stone discs were among the favourite  amusements.
Still to be seen, also, are the long  slides on steep hillsides, down which they darted on wooden sleds.
Swimming and diving were the delight of all, chiefs and common people, and surf riding remains to this day one of the favourite
sports.
It is this surf riding, as popular now with foreigners as with the natives, which makes Waikiki, near Honolulu, unique among bathing resorts.
The surf rider takes a long, smooth, polished board and with it swims out a half-mile or so from the shore.
He then lies flat on his board and swims rapidly toward shore until a roller catches the board and carries him on its crest to the beach.
Expert surf riders can raise themselves to a standing position after the wave takes them and so ride, standing, for hundreds of yards, or as far as the wave will carry them.
The game has all the excitement of tobogganing without the effort of dragging the toboggan uphill again, be-

Page 24

cause the swim out to sea, diving under the waves as one goes, has almost the fun of the ride back.
For those who cannot swim the tamer sport of surf riding in long Hawaiian canoes, the outriggers of which make an upset next to impossible, is a good substitute.


Castle, Jr., William R.:
Hawaii - Past and Present 
Dodd, Mead and Company, New York, 1917.
Revised and enlarged edition.

Open Library
http://openlibrary.org/books/OL6595020M/Hawaii_past_and_present


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home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (2013) : William R. Castle, Jr. : Surf Riding in Hawai'i, 1917.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1917_Castle_Hawaii_Past_Present.html