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surfresearch.com.au
frances burts : surfboard riding, waikiki, 1913 |
Page 13 enjoying summer in February. It was so warm that I put on my short-sleeved dress, and we all went swimming on the beautiful Waikiki beach, which is bordered by palm trees. After we had all been splashing around awhile, Mother told me to sit on the warm sand and see what would happen. She said, "Ever since I was a little girl, I've wanted to ride the surf at Honolulu, and now Father and I are going to. try it." "How do you ride the surf, mother?" I asked. "Look, look, she answered, pointing out over the water, "there's a man doing it!"' And then I saw a wonderful sight. On top of a big, combing wave that was racing toward us, rode a man, standing upright. With flying hair, he shot along, balancing himself with his arms, as the lady did who rode the white horse in the circus. Page14 |
How the Hawaiians ride the surf at Honolulu |
Burks,
Frances Williston:
Barbara's Philippine Journey Introduction by Frank M. McMurry. Illustrated by Hermann Heyer, Earl Horter and G. W. Peters World Book Company, Yonkers-on-Hudson and Manila, 1913. Hathi Trust https://hdl.handle.net/2027/miun.anw8972.0001.001 |
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