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Giles' poem follows an except from Byron's Childe Harold, reproduced with a surfing photograph by A. R. Gurrey, on the frontpiece of a previous edition (Volume 2, Number, August,1911).
See Source Documents:
1911 Lord Byron
: Childe Harold.
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SURFING
By JOHN M. GILES
The beach gleams
white in the sun's strong light,
The ocean's a
fathomless blue;
The breakers
roar on the reef and shore
And call to me
and you.
The water is clear
where the great fish sheer
'Tween the coral
rocKs below,
And the surf
boards ride there side by side,
While the breakers
come and go.
It is each for
each as we leave the beach,
And nose through
the breaking blue;
It is paddle
well as we hit the swell
And brea the
white crest through.
(Continued on third page of cover)
Page b (inside back cover)
There's a sudden
swing, a twist and a fling!
The board points
for the shore!
And you fix your
eye where the surf flings high,
To fall on the
reef aroar.
You watch it leave
with a rising heave
Gathering force
as it goes;
And you paddle
away and you dip and sway
As it near and
nearer shows.
Then you flash
through space in a whirling race,
And a smother
of salt sea spray,
And the sea laughs
by and the great bl\1e sKy,
Both call their
roundelay.
The warm trade
breeze that moves the trees
On the fringed
shore ahead,
With lingering
kiss and soothing hiss,
Steadies your
whirling head.
So it's out to
the roar of the spray spumed shore!
Again and still
again,
For life is good
on your fashioned wood,
And you care
or know not pain.
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The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published by Alexander Hume Ford, Honolulu, Territory of Hawaii, Volume 2, Number 4, October,1911, pages A and B. |
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