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For contemporary
articles, see Source Documents:
1911 William
Contrell : The Hawaiian Outrigger
Canoe Club.
and
1912 Francis
Campbell Carter : Building an
Outrigger Canoe.
Page 440
From painting
by H. G. Hitchcock.
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(Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe) |
In Samoa the last
of the great catamaran war canoes lies rotting on the beach at Apia.
It once carried
400 warriors, but it is safe to say that it's like will never again be
built; few indeed remain who may still bind together with bits of sennit
(cocoanut fibre twine) great forest planks; so closely that the roughest
storm does not start them so far apart as to let in one drop of water.
The Somoans gave
the last great result of theIr dying art to the Emperor of the Germans,
and an offer was even made to sail it with a native crew to Hamburg, but
there lies this wonderful masterpiece of Samoan handicraft a little longer
food for the reflection of the passing tourist and the present abode of
the devouring white ant.
New Zealand and
Samoa both forbid their masterpieces of native work to leave the country
of their creation, but with what a difference!
In olden times
canoe and spear making was the pastime of the men.
On many of the
islands one may still watch the men, and even boys at work fashioning the
old style of outrigger with primitive implements.
Each island and
tribe preserves its own peculiar form of constructing the outrigger canoe,
and in the New Hebrides where the flotsam and jetsam of the Pacific people
have been gathered by ocean currents and devastating storms, one may study
a hundred types of canoes in as many villages, where various South Sea
languages and traditions are still held sacred.
I believe I can
almost tell at a glance what islanders have fashioned any given canoe -
to the tourist all are outriggers, but to the practiced eye, one outrigger
has four poles connecting it with the dug out log of wood. another three,
another ...
Page 442
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... two, or an
entire group may use four poles, but in different combinations.
Sometimes the
four close together near the center of the boat, sometimes two near each
end or three at one end and one at the other- but each combination tells
its tale.
I recognized
at Fortuna in the New Hebrides the little short outrigger poles of Samoa
- and the natives of this island speak Samoan.
Even at the mission
schools where many gather from all the isands, you may tell the tribe from
which each comes by the manner in which he constructs his canoe.
Alas and alackaday,
however, in these modern days the South Sea Islanders more and more every
year devote their waning skill to fashioning toy models of the old time
canoes for the passing tourist, and trust to the local missionary in time
of emergency for a lift in his modern machine built whale boat.
Even the spears
of the South Sea Islanders are now turned out by machinery and supplied
in bundles in exchange for copra - idleness is becoming rife and the people
are rapidly dying - evidently of ennui.
The sphere of
the outrigger canoe is bounded on the north by the American Territory of
Hawaii, on the east by the American possession of the Philippines, on the
south by Tahiti, and on the west by Ceylon.
In the great
vast ocean between these four groups of islands the outrigger canoe for
more than a thousand years was king.
It is possible
that the outrigger canoe is a Singalese invention.
At any rate,
Europeans visiting the Pacific by way of the Suez first meet the outrigger
canoe and its first cousin, the catamaran, at Ceylon.
From here around
the Pacific by way of Malay, Java, the Celebes, Philippines, New Guinea,
Fiji, Samoa, Hawaii, and Tahiti the outrigger canoe is still the boat of
the people.
Only the Solomon
Islanders and the aboriginals of Australia know nothing of the outrigger
canoe, and both of these are negroid races.
Surfing in an
outrigger is king of water sports, and in Hawaii anyone may learn to handle
one of these craft with a little practice.
I first became
acquainted with the outrigger at Waikiki, and there I remained until I
thought I had mastered the rudiments of guiding this obstreperous craft.
Moving on to
Fiji I was initiated into the mysteries of "jumping" a reef, a common practice
in South Seas, when there is no other escape from a threatened hurricane.
In Samoa and
other South Sea islands I became more and more a friend of the outrigger,
but I do not believe that it will ...
Page 443
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A single Hawaiian
outrigger canoe made its appearance some years ago at an Oregon coast summer
resort; it was built by a young Hawaiian especially to ride the gigantic
billows that upon our Northern Pacific strands, wrecking any ordinary boat
caught before them and rolling the largest life boats over and over, much
to the discomfiture of the oarsmen, who are always lashed to their seats.
The outrigger
of this big canoe was constructed of steel, a pointed cylinder peculiarly
adaptable to the conditions to be overcome.
Many successful
runs were made before the great walls of water that come rolling in from
the ocean, and people marveled at the nerve of the young Hawaiian, who
ivariably kept his boat before the surge.
But one day the
accident happened - an unusually high sea was running and the sport seemed
glorious for an adventurerously inclined person.
The young Hawaiian's
chum, a white lad, pleaded to go along, and as he had proved an apt pupil,
he was. taken in the canoe, with strlct admonition that in case she swamped
or upset not to jump out, and above all things always to leap from the
canoe on the outrigger side.
A wave more heavy
than any before put such a strain on the guiding paddle that it snapped,
and like a flash the canoe began to bring up broadside to the then cresting
breaker; the young white man leaped into the sea to swim ashore and the
sharp pointed end of the outrigger struck him on the head.
His companion,
crazed with grief, destroyed his canoe and has never since engaged in surfing.
So ended outrigger
sports on the Pacific Coast of the mainland.
I took my first
lesson at outrigging in the canoe that had carried Alice Roosevelt so successfuly
before the surf that rolIs in at Waikiki, but had balked at commodating
the bulky form of Mr. Taft.
It was the Acting
Governor of Hawaii who put his canoe at my disposal and advised me to remain
on the Islands until I had mastered the sport - then, he was certain I
would never care to leave,
He was right.
It was while
this self-same Acting Governor of Hawaii was initiating Alice Roosevelt
into the delights of surfing in an outrigger, that the great mail steamer
from Japan lay at the Honolulu dock screaming itself hoarse for her to
return and finally left without her so that Alice was compelled to follow
to the outer harbor by tug boat.
How Miss Roosevelt
ever tore herself awav from the sport of surfing I do not yet understand,
but I do know that as a married woman she returned to Hawaii that her husband
might learn the art of surfing.
As a malihini
I was captivated, as are many malihinis, by an outrigger lying on the sand
under the shade of a hau tree that grew at the water's edge.
The particular
hau tree also provided umbrageous protection for the Acting Governor's
outdoor dining room, which was beautifully floored with the same native
mahogany out of which his canoe was constructed.
If I were writing
for the malihini I should explain that the outrigger canoes are built on
the Island of Hawaii where grows the koa tree; from one of which the canoe
is shaped, then dug out; a strip of perhaps six inches being added as bulwarks,
and so cleverly joined that no novice would discern the crack in the highly
polished surface of the canoe.
The outrigger
itself is a mere ...
Page 444
... pole of lightest
wood, called in Hawaii the ama; it is two-thirds as long as the canoe itself,
and perhaps six inches in diameter.
It floats from
six to twelve feet from the canoe and is connected by two curved poles
- iakos.
The Hawaiian outrigger
is the largest in proportion that I have noticed anywhere on the Pacific,
which, of course, makes it all but impossible for the craft to upset completely.
I say almost,
for there is the possibility of a splendid spill, if the waves run high
and the man at the steering paddle loses his nerve or fails in skill.
Unlike South Sea
outrigger canoes I have carelessly boarded, the Hawaiian craft does not
either upset or sink her outrigger if the weight is thrown in that direction.
She behaves herself
until the native takes the paddle in hand.
I knew something
about sending a birch bark skimming along smooth waters so I took a paddle
confidently while my companion sat complacently in the bow - to watch proceedings.
We were to go
out to the big breakers, but to my astonishment every little ripple semed
to turn the canoe broadside to the sea.
I tried paddling
on the outrigger side, then switched to the other - a gentle whitecap came
aboard and swamped us, and I was given my first lesson in aid to the sunken.
We both jumped
out into the water - no one ever goes outriggering at Waikiki except in
a bathing suit. My tutor ducked beneath water, put his shoulder under the
bow and with his feet firmly on the hard sand exerted all his strength,
the canoe tilted on end and the water gushed out; suddenly my companion
stood from under, down went the bow and the remaining waters rushed forward
and splashed over end in a fountain; it took but little effort then to
bailout what was left, and once more we clambered aboard via the off side
from the outrigger.
The Hawaiian
outrigger canoe does not easily upset, but a child can swamp her.
My tutor took
the steering paddle and we shot out through the incoming rollers, mounted
waves, turned our broadside to swells and were lifted over them, kept out
prow right in among foaming crests and scarcely shipped a drop.
At last we were
a mile out among the great long swells of the ocean, beyond the outer reef.
Other canoes
were there, crowded with gay expectant occupants, all attired in their
bathing suits, save the native ...
Page 445
paddlers: they
found a pair of trunks quite sufficient.
The most experienced
man always sat in the stern and guided the craft with his great fan-like
paddle.
It was he who
kept his eyes ascant for the "Nalu nui" or great wave.
Roller after
roller might pass, but they were not the kind that would carry the narrow
craft up to the beach-a mile away.
At last while
on the top of a swell he would give the cry "Nahu nui !" and then everyone
would bend to his paddle and await the word of command.
"Hoe! Hoe !" and the paddles fly throllgh the water, the canoe propelled by several powerful pairs of arms gathers speed - over shoulders the great long roll of water can now be seen approaching.
"Hoe! hoe! hoe!
hoe!" cried the steersman, as he plied his own paddle with wonderful quickness:
the long sweeping base of the oncoming roller begins to lift the back of
the canoe, and now evervone drives his paddle as if mad; a little more
exertion and the wave is caught - a little less and it is lost, the canoe
merely sinking back over the crest.
The canoe is
tilted now seemingly at an angle of forty-five degrees, she is plunging
downward before that onrushing wall of water; paddles dipping into the
racing brine now are almost torn from the grasp.
The helmsman
cries "Pau !" ( enough), everyone else rests and his labor begins: with
all its force the water seeks to swirl the craft around so that it may
catch its outrigger broadside and send it toppling above the heads of the
people in the boat, as the wave breaks.
Perspiring at
every pore the man at the paddle braces against Father Neptune, as his
craft shoots faster and faster down the face of that ever-steepening mountain
of water.
Now there is
a rushing, hissing sound, the boat seems to lift on beam ends and there
is a churning of white foam all around the helmsman; the stern of the great
long canoe rests upon the crest of the wave, its bow is down in the depths.
A false move
now, or should the paddle break - and this sometimes happens - there would
be a sudden bringing up broadside to the wave, the light outrigger would
be lifted high in air, and if the boat did not speedily swamp a complete
capsize might occur; this seldom happens, however, and the canoe goes speeding
on before the wave, and the excitement approaches its climax.
Page 446
It was well that
I learned to ride upon the waves in my outrigger with the Hawaiians, for
in the South Seas I was compelled more than once to "jump" a dangerous
reef in a tiny craft with an outrigger not much larger than the paddle
usually in service at Waikiki.
In the Hawaiian
canoe if the wave proves too strong, it is usually possible to back water
and fall back above the crest of the wave into still waters - not so with
the South Sea cockle shell.
You may leave
your helm as the wave dies down at Waikiki and run forward to tilt the
bow downward so that she will keep going until the succeeding breaker lifts
her stern and sends her flying onward with renewed vigor and lands her
gently high and dry upon the sloping beach.
In Samoa such
a feat is reserved for the most expert of the native boatmen, for the tiny
outrigger is meant barely to balance the boat, the occupants are supposed
to keep her equilibrium; the Samoan boats when propelled by the sweeping
native paddles dart through the waters like flashes of light, but I have
found that under the guidance of a novice, or one accustomed to the comparatively
ponderous canoes of the Hawaiians, that they have a way of dipping their
outriggers upon the slightest provocation, and once the outrigger dips,
or lifts out of water, which it is prone to do, over goes the cockle shell
and the once occupant has to bailout and get in again - South Sea Island
fashion.
My first experience
with a Samoan canoe was in a quiet lagoon.
Trusting to the
balancing power of the outrigger, I nonchalantly leaped in, despite the
cries of warning from the natives.
Instantly the
tiny outrigger described an arc in the air, and as I, forgetting the Hawaiian
rule, jumped out on the off side, it came down and struck me on the head,
my boat now bottom side up.
Fortunate
for me that the
Samoans build their outrigger floats of light sticks of wood.
I was surprised.
A small boy lifted
the outrigger pole, the canoe flopped back into its proper position, full
of water, of course, and my Samoan guide showed me how to bail out a canoe
in accordance ...
Page 447
... with the custom
of his people.
First he sped
the canoe firmly by the thwart amidships and sent it forward with all might,
and as the stern passed him reached out his arm and gave the littleboat
a jerk in the other direction until the water within went flying over the
bow and sides in a solid sheet.
He repeated this
maneuver several times, until scarcely a drop of water was left in the
canoe, then invited me to get in from the off side.
I did so, and
down went the outrigger on the other side, and once more there was a capsize.
The next time
I seized the bow with both hands and straddled, carefully balancing myself
until I was safely aboard.
I noted that
my guide sat with his legs crossed under hlm across the thwarts, while
I, unaccustomed to this pose, had to put my feet ,one before the other,
in the narrow little slit that widened out below - for the canoes are dugouts,
widest just above the water line.
In this uncomfortable
position I attempted to paddle, and for the third time capsized my craft.
After that I
settled down to learn the art of managing an outrigger canoe built to suit
the requirements of the Samoan.
To the end of
my stay I handled the Samoan canoe most gingerly.
All around me
in rough weather or smooth the Samoans would speed by, bobbing up and down
in their canoes, amid the reefs heedless of choppy seas or heavy rollers
- but after the Hawaiian pleasure craft the Samoan cockle shell is little
to my liking.
The natives,
it is true, come riding in before the surf that rolls into Apia Bay, but
there are upsets on the reef, and the coral is sharp and its cut in this
climate not to be trifled with.
Then, too, the
Samoan canoe is so easily swamped by a novice - and I have noticed that
the native is frequently engaged in the water, bailing out his canoe, Samoan
fashion.
He can board
his craft again with lithesome ease, but in a choppy sea it is a knack
to be learned, to leap aboard again without swamping the little craft.
Of course the
Samoans have some large canoes; they used to build war catamarans that
would carry three hundred warriors, but they were not the canoes of the
people.
Nowadays each
village owns a modern whaleboat sometimes sixty feet long and manned by
thirty or forty rowers; in these they make their "malangas" or journeys
around the islands of the group, but the tiny outrigger is still the boat
of the people and in it the Samoan small boy learns to defy the surf that
beats upon the shore during ...
Page 448
... the stormy season - which lasts for more than half the year.
For all around
comfort and a long cruise commend me to the Fijian outrigger - it never
capsizes and you may take your bed with you and sleep beneath a roof of
cocoanut leaves erected over the platform built between the outrigger proper
and the canoe.
In Fiji there
are rivers, real rivers; and all kinds of bays and inlets, and on them
all, the native plies his outrigger.
On the two large
islands it is possible to go far up into the mountains and at some native
village near the headwaters of a river secure a canoe that managed by two
Fijians will carry you saiely through all the rapids, down the river and
even outside the coral reefs or the coast.
The canoes seem
tiny and zigzag in and out with the currents of the upper courses, but
on the flooring laid between the outrigger sticks, are clean mats and a
pile of earth upon which the fire is built for cooking, and perhaps an
old Standard Oil tin is there to do service as a stove.
By day there
is a sloping roof of cocoanut leaves to give shelter from the rays of the
sun and at night wild banana leaves are spread, forming a most easy and
comfortable bed, as I have reason to remember.
There are thrills,
dear to the heart of the lover of sport, as the tiny canoe shoots the rapids,
and sometimes jumps a tiny cascade, but for real excitement, commend me
to the care of the nervy Fijian who enjoys jumping his canoe over the reef,
on the crest of the great rollers that thunder down upon every bank of
coral in the Pacific.
It takes more
than skill to jump a reef if there is the slightest sea on.
Nerve and strength
plays most important part.
The great rollers
that traverse the ocean uninterruptedly from the South American coast many
thousand miles away, find their first obstacle upon meeting the coral reefs
of Fiji - these reefs
not a foot below
water at some tides, descend hundreds of fathoms, sheer precipice on the
side toward the great ocean.
There is no long
gathering wave ...
Page 449
... that comes
surging in, but a constant piling up of the green waters, short waves that
drop in rapid succession upon the hard coral.
Then, as the
waters recede, there is a Niagara falling over the edge of the reef into
the ocean; let any boat get caught in this, and if she is not borne beneath
the usual projecting ledge and held there by the currents, dismemberment
at least will be her fate and woe betide the occupants who have not learned
the art of body surfing - that is keeping the body rigid, and catching
an advancing wave and riding before it; mere swimming would scarcely land
anyone safely over a coral reef.
Outriggering
over the surf-bound reefs of Fiji is sport for the daring.
My first dash
over the coral reef was accidental; that is, we had gone out for a quiet
day's fishing and the wind arose, moreover such a current set outward through
the channel between the reefs that it seemed as though we could make no
headway and every moment the waves rose higher and higher. The two Fijian
paddlers looked at the line of foam upon the reef and then at their catch
of fish in the bottom of the canoe.
It was a long
way round by the still water passage, even if it could be made, and not
a hundred yards across the foam covered reef to the quiet waters of the
lagoon within.
One of the Fijjians
turned his paddle in the direction of the reef, and soon we were riding
broadside on the great rollers not a hundred feet from where the short
high waves dropped down upon the coral rocks.
Several waves
passed, and then one monster came howling in.
In the twinkling
of an eye the sharp point of our canoe was pointed to the reef and we were
sloping down that almost perpendicular wall of water; it seemed as though
we would drop bow on upon the reef, but the monster wave bore us on, spent
its force, then there was a grating, grinding sensation, and the two Fijians
leaped out upon the coral and strained with all their might to hold the
canoe from being swept by the back wash into the ocean and perhaps beneath
the fearful ledge - that graveyard of the coral reef.
Many a whaleboat
has been turned over and over in the reef, and the poor sailors ground
to pulp on the jagged coral.
The narrow little canoe held bow on to the force of water held her position, and as the next surge rolled in, the Fijians leaped into their places and pad- ...
Page 450
... dIed like mad; we were over the reef and had made it in two jumps.
Since writing
the above paragraph I have read in an Auckland paper a telegraphic despatch
from Fiji announcing that a missionary, (a man who initiated me in some
of my first water sports in Fiji), has been drowned with two na-tives -
trying to jump a reef.
I know the reef;
he has probably jumped it scores of times, but this trip doubtless, the
bow of his craft did not touch the coral, and then all was over.
I was canoeing
among the Tongan Islands at the period of this accident, - the Tongans
are the nearest neighbors to the Fijis, some 700 miles away and taught
them to build their largest war canoes.
Once the Tongans
built great catamarans and gigantic outrigger canoes with which they invaded
Fiji, and to this day some of the Fijian Islands are more Tongan than Fijian.
Here the outrigger
boats are the largest, some of them still large enough to accommodate on
deck half a village, and the Fijians and Tongans still enjoy racing each
other in their tribal canoes. Sometimes a score of sailing canoes will
take part in one of these contests - but always in Fijian waters, for among
the Tongan Islands there are few outrigger canoes to be found nowadays,
and the stay-at-homes have lost their daring.
I have seen Tongans
leap out of their canoes until a steamer passed, for fear of her swell.
In all the Tongan
Islands, I saw but one fair-sized outrigger canoe, and this was hauled
up on shore and dismantled.
The days of the
outrigger in the South Seas are numbered.
You may remain
for days or weeks at Suva, tlte metropolis of Fiji, and not see one.
At Apia in Samoa,
the skiff and the whaleboat take its place; the French have taught the
TahItIans to prefer other craft, and everywhere throughout the Pacific
the native is abandoning the outrigger for
the more modern
clinker built.
For a safe boat
in almost any surf, however, the properly constructed outrigger has no
rival.
The Solomon Islanders
alone have discarded the outrigger.
Twenty of their
warriors will balance and propel a canoe that is as frail and cranky as
a paper racing shell.
In the New Hebrides,
each island and tribe has its own particular style of outrigger canoe.
Some have a dozen
iakos connecting the body of the canoe with the ama, others only two.
I brought one
little New Hebrides canoe back to Hawaii with me, for it was my fond intention
to have and preserve in time, at Waikiki, a collection of outrigger canoes
from every part of the Pacific.
I hope yet that
this may be done.
The South Sea
Islanders and their native craft are passing away: let us at least rescue
the Hawaiian outrigger from oblivion and make it our national pleasure
craft for sporting safely upon the crests of the billows that roll in at
Waikiki and over other shelving reefs that slope up to the Hawaiian Islands.
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The Mid-Pacific Magazine Published by Alexander Hume Ford, Honolulu, Territory of Hawaii, Volume 2, Number 5, November,1911, pages 441 to 450. |
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