home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |
|
Internet Archive
http://archive.org/details/hawaiinei00deer
On moonlight nights
most delightful bathing-parties are given at the villas of Waikiki.
The great amusement
is not so much dipping in the surf, though every one swims like a fish,
but canoeing.
Many people have
their own canoes, and there are boats to be hired, with natives to guide
them.
The canoes are
built on the old Hawaiian model, which could not well be improved upon.
Each one is hollowed
from a single trunk, and I have skimmed the surf in a canoe in which the
great Kamehameha himself went avoyaging.
There is an outrigger
of heavy wood to give steadiness, and the paddles are huge, flat wooden
spoons.
There are usually
two natives to paddle and one to steer, though some of the Americans
page 42
who live by the
water have learned the difficult art of steering.
It is a most
delightful sport, though timid people do not enjoy it.
It has in it
that spice of danger which charms.
The canoe-riders
all wear bathing-suits, for it is as wet inside the boat as outside.
Unless the canoe
is extraordinarily large, not more than two passengers who do not work
can be carried.
As a consequence,
some of the ladies at Waikiki have learned to be expert oarswomen.
The canoe is pushed
off from the shelving shore and paddled out toward the reef, over which
the tide rolls in big breakers, the bigger the better.
Too much wind
blowing off shore spoils the sport, as it prevents the canoe from attaining
sufficient momentum.
All hands paddle
going out, and presently, about a quarter of a mile from shore, the rowers
turn the canoe, and wait for a huge roller.
Sometimes when
the surf runs high, even the outward-going is exciting.
The canoe goes
over big incoming breakers, and drops squarely down to the level water
with something of the shock of the chutes.
Two or three
rollers may pass the canoe before one is selected.
It is chosen
far out, and the helmsman gives the signal, " Hoi ! hoi!''' which means
to paddle like mad.
The rowers bend
to the paddles, and the firm, quick strokes, send the canoe bounding forward
while the motion thrills the bark as the wind thrilled it long ago, when
it was a young tree in the forest.
All this effort
is to give the boat sufficient momentum to keep up with the wave when the
latter shall have finally caught up with its freight.
If the boat is
not going fast enough, the breaker overwhelms it and passes on, leaving
the canoe swamped and half-full of water, or, perhaps, capsizing it in
spite of the
Page 43
outrigger.
To be in a careening
boat with a heavy outrigger that has a way of knocking innocent people
on the head is not agreeable, nor is it fun to have to swim in with the
waterlogged canoe, sometimes a task of several hours.
Those who cannot
swim must sit in the canoe and add their weight to that of the water.
But if the canoe
is going fast enough, none of these disagreeable contingencies occur.
The wave, fresh
from its victorious fight with the reef, rises behind in a great green
translucent wall, curling white at the top, as though to show its teeth.
From far below
it, you look up into it fascinated.
There is a moment
of breathless suspense, and then the canoe is lifted up and flung forward
with incredible speed.
It is like sliding
downhill over water instead of land, and there is all the fancied pleasure
of drowning with none of its pangs.
It is one long
toboggan to the shore.
Once or twice,
if the paddlers with their wonderfully sympathetic water-sense feel the
boat slackening, they give a vigorous push or two and the canoe is again
coasting down the wave.
In front, where
the canoe cuts the water, a blinding sheet of spray is thrown upward and
backward, and the two cowcatcher seats are all afloat.
But the steersman
has no sinecure.
With his paddle
he must guide this long canoe, which is not an easy task, considering that
the wave has several motions, and does not travel in a straight line.
If he feels a
rotary motion inside the circling water, he must correct it with his paddle.
He is obliged
to shift the paddle from side to side of the boat, and he must do it with
swiftness and certainty.
A second's indecision
on his part would capsize the canoe.
Often he clutches
his paddle with both hands and bends all his weight to keep the canoe from
Page 44
swerving in this
maelstrom of waters.
Sometimes the
rowers, feeling that the wave is too strong for the single paddle, lend
their oars to counteract the oblique motion
of the water.
Borne on irresistibly,
the canoe is carried to the shore, and then the paddlers bend to their
task once more, and the exhilarating run is made over again.
The enjoyment
is heightened when there are three or four canoes out, all in experienced
hands.
They race on
every incoming wave, and as the wave does not run at the same speed in
all places, there is a fair chance for one canoe to shoot in ahead of the
others.
If the wave dies
out at one point, or if one of the canoes is left in the rear, a derisive
shout goes up from the rest.
This is sea-racing
in a new form, with nature to do the work.
Page 48
Page 54
Their small families
and high death-rate are the direct cause of the decline in the native population.
The natives are
much more industrious than we give them credit for.
Nearly all of
them work.
They cultivate
taro, they clerk in stores, they fish, they row boats, and they guide canoes
through the surf for the pleasure of visitors to the islands.
...
The industry
of the natives is largely a habit contracted from the whites.
In the old days
amusement was the thing and work was only secondary.
...
But American
methods put a stop to all this Arcadian vagabondage.
The native found
himself caught up in civilization's big wheel, which goes ever faster and
faster, and now he works from early morning to late at night, with little
time for his swimming and sporting in the surf, and less time for flower-weaving
and the feasts and jollity
Page 55
that he loves.
Native boat-crews
work until the perspiration flows down their faces, rowing the heavy canoes
through the surf at the many landings.
They are at it
early and late, at a wage of a dollar a day, and even then they are so
generous that they invite all the steerage passengers who are without provisions
to share with them their rations of fish and poi, until frequently their
store gives out before the end of the voyage, and they must do their hard
work on empty stomachs.
And the extreme
cheerfulness with which they do their work!
Life for them
is seasoned with smiles.
My boatman, Picoi,
bending his fine brown back and straining his marvelous arms that I may
have the joy of riding down hill on a breaker, smiles through the sweat
that drips in his eyes because I call him, "Picoi, good boy."
He is a revelation
of willing service.
Page 139
The famous road
to Waikiki is in the other direction from the Pali, a long, level, well-made
causeway, ideal for bicycling, and with Kapiolani Park, Sans Souci, or
Diamond Head as objective points.
It is a fine
climb- into the ashy crater of Diamond Head, with a magnificent reward
for the fatigue.
All along the
Waikiki sands are hospitable villas and splendid beaches, where the bathing
is the best in the world.
If you care to
walk by the beach beyond Diamond Head, you will cross an old battle-field,
and if the tide is right, there may be rich
treasure-trove
in the shape of bleached and whitened
Page 140
bones.
I know a cabinet
where the lower jaw of a fine young brave, every tooth white and perfect,
is one of the treasures.
This was a find
on this very beach at the foot of Diamond Head.
Page 176
The bay (at
Hilo) is the most beautiful harbor in all Hawaii.
As elsewhere,
there is no wharf, and landings to and from the little steamers must be
made in small boats.
Around the bay
is a bold headland crowned with green, and the water of the bay is an exceedingly
clear and limpid emerald.
Hilo has a number
of show places.
Cocoanut Island
is one of the landmarks of the harbor, a slender spit of land jutting into
the water and crowned with a grove of
cocoanuts, hoary
with age.
There are delicious
coves —
Page 177
coves where the water is a paler green, and where bathers come to have the novel experience of bathing in warm salt water while taking a cold shower in rain water from above, for it always rains in the bathing-pool.
An island Charon
ferries you across to Cocoanut Isle, and assures you that there are "not
very many sharks" as he grates the prow of his boat against a rock.
You bathe in
the cocoanut cove, but with some misgivings, for a melancholy row of sharks'
skulls with quadruple rows of indented teeth attest to the fact that there
have been sharks at no remote period.
The drive to
and from Cocoanut Isle is delightful, across the wide Wailuku River, through
lanes bordered with delicious wild strawberry guavas, which the natives
do not even take the trouble to gather.
On the other side
of the town are the Rainbow Falls, within easy riding or walking distance.
As a walk it
is very charming.
The road is lumpy
and invariably muddy, and almost impassable for wheeled vehicles, but fine
for a short skirt and stout shoes. There are rippling little streams to
cross on foot-bridges where it is pleasant to sit and dangle your feet
and eat pineapples from the neighboring field.
Behind the hospital,
down a steep little ravine, is a spring that gushes pure and cold from
the mountain.
This is one of
the finest, because it is the coldest, in all Hawaii.
It was for centuries
a tabu spring, sacred to the use of the high chief of this district.
No common man
was allowed to slake his thirst there.
If one ever did,
it was in the dead of night and at the peril of his life, for the tabu
sticks of white kapa guarded the place day and night.
CHAPTER XV - LEGENDS AND FOLK-LORE
I have selected
the story of Hiku and his rescue of his dead love, which is the Hawaiian
version of Orpheus and Eurydice, as a typical Hawaiian wonder-tale.
The story follows
:
...
Page 190
Whenever it became
necessary to get new shells from the seashore to scrape the kapa, or when
great piles of the finished stuff were ready for exchange, Hana would go
down the mountain to barter her wares for fish and taro and seaweed and
shells.
On these occasions
she never allowed Hiku (her
son) to accompany her, though he begged hard to go.
He had been born
on Hualalai, and he had never been to the seashore.
...
To tell the truth,
Hana was jealous of Hiku.
She wanted him
to stay with her always, and she feared that if he once went down to the
village and found how merry they were there, bathing, swimming, and skimming
the waves on surf-boards, he would never want to dwell on Hualalai' s lonely
heights again.
And so she kept
him at home, and invented new stories of the gods to tell him,
Page 191
as the great mallets
came down on the tree-fiber with a cadence like a chorus of anvils.
...
And Hiku, who
had been restless for days, suddenly sprang to his feet, and tightening
his malo, declared that he was going down to the village, and see what
they did with the drums under the moon.
And though Hana
hung about his neck and caressed him, weeping piteously and begging him
to stay, he would not be restrained, and started out, and the best that
she could do was to win his promise that he would come back some day.
And for days and
days, the sound of Hana's wailing could be heard through the forest, and
her mallet was silent.
Hiku was wild
with delight to see a whole street of grass houses, instead of a single
hut, and it was very much warmer on the seashore than on the cold mountain-
top.
The slender stems
of the cocoanuts bent in the wind, and Hiku soon learned to run up them
with monkey-like agility, and to gather the green fruit.
It was
Page 192
delightful to dive among the coral groves of the reef, and Hiku soon added diving and swimming to his accomplishments. And while Hana mourned in the mountain, Hiku was perfectly happy, and rarely thought of his old home.
|
Hawaii Nei. W. Doxey, San Francisco, 1899. Internet Archive
|
home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |