todd : surfriding in canoes and boats, hawaii, 1896
Loomis Tood: Waikiki, 1896.
Todd, Mabel Loomis, Rogers, Bruce:
Mifflin and Co., Boston, Riverside Press Cambridge,
Todd, Mabel Loomis, 1856-1932;
Rogers, Bruce, 1870-1957
LIFE IN HONOLULU
Surf-riding is an exciting
amusement ; native boatmen, each with a happy passenger in
his canoe, paddle out beyond the breaking waves, only to
ride beachward on a rushing, foamy crest.
Bathing-suits are necessary for
senger (the islander does not
trouble himself with one) because overturns are not
If the foreigner can swim until
the native comes to his aid, all is well.
Most persons can do so, and are
generally rescued alive, though not invariably.
Still, the perilous pastime
continues in unabated popularity.
Village Landing Place.
whaleboat at the landing and the grass-hut on the point,
Toward evening the Hall anchored off Punaluu, two
hundred and seventy miles from Honolulu, where landing
appeared an uncertain performance, through pounding
surf, still encircling the coast in walls of swaying
About nine o'clock two small boats shot through from the
little town, to bring our company ashore.
They were propelled by natives ready to dash back with
us into lines of breakers at the most favorable instant.
Great rollers chased us madly, raised the boats like
egg-shells in a wild rush forward, then broke over the
lava reefs with resounding din on either side, now and
then enveloping us in heavy showers.
Still the native oarsmen kept peacefully onward, guiding
their craft with much skill through the narrow passage
among rocks, taking each sea just right until both boats
were brought up safely beside a little wharf in partial
shelter of a small bay, where one assisted jump
landed the voyagers among a variegated crowd watching
our arrival with interest.
It was called an unusually calm landing for that port.
Geoff Cater (2014) : Mabel
Loomis Tood : Surfriding in Canoes and Boats, Hawaii, 1896.