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owen : hawaii, 1898 
Jean A. Owen : Hawaii, 1898.

Extracts from
Owen, Jean A. (Mrs. Visger) : The Story of Hawaii.
Harper and Brothers, London, 1898.

Introduction.
A very basic report of surfriding, although by 1898 Owen probably assumed her readers were aware of the activity and it need no further explanation.
Of most interest are her comments that "surf riding on boards is still much practised" (page 81) and its adoption by non-indeginous residents, page 211.

Page 41

Given the breadfruit, the yam and the coco-nut, with the abundant fish of the tropical islands, and what more does the unspoiled or unsophisticated native need?
One day's work a week, up the mountain and on the shore, and he is placed beyond want, and might amuse himself, if he pleased, with surf riding, horse riding, and canoe paddling for the rest of the week.

Page 80

The Hawaiians had many games but they were most of them associated with gambling; betting prevailed to a very large extent.
Boxing was the favourite national sport; wrestling and running matches were also much in favour.
Sledge racing was very popular.
A smooth track was made down a steep hillside and then covered with dry grass.
Grasping his sledge ...

Page  81

... about the middle with the right had, the actor ran a few yards, then threw himself with all his force on to the sledge, and shot down the hill head-foremost.
Surf-riding on boards is still much practised.
An ancient amusement was to leap from a great height into the water.

Page 211
(incomplete) ... and the island-born foreigners emulate the natives in their surf- board riding, canoeing and fishing by torchlight.


Owen, Jean A. (Mrs. Visger) : The Story of Hawaii.
Harper and Brothers, London, 1898.

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home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (2010) : Jean A. Owen : Hawaii, 1898.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1898_Owen_Story_Hawaii.html