hall : surf
riding at waikiki, 1898
: Surf Riding at Waikiki, 1898.
New York, 1898.
AND CUSTOMS OF INHABITANTS]
the drives about Honolulu are thronged with brilliant
conditions swim as well as they ride.
so warm it makes the bathing perfection.
fringe the shore, and make a pretty background for the
In the surf
perform all sorts of feats, and particularly one worthy of
mention is that
of riding the waves by the use of the surf board.
is a plank resembling a coffin lid, measuring about six feet
out from the rocks, upon which the surf is breaking, the
their board in front of them, and swam
first line of breakers.
a very high wave, they will leap out from behind, lying
face downward upon their surf boards.
keep themselves on the highest edge of the billow, and by
hand and foot ever seem to slide down the topping wave.
a little ahead of the breaker, and just as you would expect
to see them
dashed to pieces against the rocks, they quietly vanish, and
are out at
sea, ready for another perilous ride.
attached to this aquatic feat is in mounting the breaker
just at the proper
time, and to keep exactly in its curl.
Old men and
girls often join in this amusement, and are wildly cheered
by the spectators.
luncheons are given, and the guests have assembledd, the
question is asked
: "Will you have a swim ?"
always answered in the affirmative, and the guests go to
rooms, adorn themselves
in bathing suits which are provided for them, and take a
swim before luncheon
bathe together after our American fashion, and there is no
regarding this custom as is shown by
form of amusement is riding out on a moolight night to
a swim, a jolly supper, and arriving home in the " wee small
and his wife occupying a villa at Waikiki gave a ball to the
H. M. S. Garnet, and to the officers on board the American
midnight, when they all departed to rooms assigned them, and
festive gowns and uniforms for
It was a
sight, with a full moon,
instead of dancing to the strains of the music.
of this they once more adorned themselves in their ballroom
danced till morning.
New York, 1898.
Geoff Cater (2013) : A. D.
: Surf Riding in Hawaii, 1898.
The world cruise of the Great White Fleet :
honoring 100 years of global partnerships and security / edited
by Michael J. Crawford ; with a foreword by Donald C. Winter.
Washington, D.C. : Naval Historical Center, Dept. of the Navy :
Postcard collected in Hawaii. Naval Historical Center, Roy W
Postcard sent from Honolulu, Hawaii, by Electrician Roy W.
Davis, in U.S. Battleship Vermont, to his
future wife, Etta M. Cowles, July 22, 1908. Naval Historical
Center, Roy W. Davis Collection.
"One of the
great sports is to get a canoe made of a tree trunk hollowed
out with an outrigger lashed to it and go surfriding. . . .
The game is to get five or six in a canoe and paddle out
about a mile.
There you wait until you see a wave you like, then everyone
paddles as hard as they can to get a start.
If things are properly timed a big wave catches the canoe
and curved on the shore side and shoots it along the front
of it. Sometimes you can go half a mile and you go like the
Lt. Edward S. Willing, USMC, in USS Illinois, to his
father, July 20, 1908 (Willing, 26).
Naval Historical Center, Photographic Collection.
Hawaii; scenes and impressions,
Gerould, Katharine Fullerton, 1879-1944.
New York, C. Scribner's sons, 1916.
The race is not weak or degenerate: it is, physically,
strength and beautiful of feature. But
the Kanaka is amphibious-fishing, surfriding, swimming, he is,
all his life, naturally in and out of the water. It is one
[ 12 ]
thing to cover yourself with palm-oil and
let the Pacific spray run off you in shining drops while you
rest on the sands; it
is quite another to keep your wet clothes
on as you go about your business on the
shore-but it is to ask too much of Polynesian intelligence to
request it to see the
city stretches some seven miles, end to
end, along the sea-front, running back,
up enchanted valleys, to the mountains:
the Pali, or Tantalus. "Ewa" of Honolulu are Pearl Harbor and
Ewa plantation; "Waikiki" of it is-Waikiki. Here
are the seaside hotels and restaurants,
the Outrigger Club, Kapiolani Park, the
beach-houses of rich Honolulans, and
Diamond Head. Here are the bathing,
the surf-riding, the general tourist activity
-as well as the amusements of Honolulans
themselves. Across from the Moana Hotel
is Ainahau, among whose giant trees and
flowers Stevenson often sat with the little
Kaiulani, heiress-apparent to the now longsuperseded Queen.
Kaiulani died during
Liliuokalani's reign, and her father, Mr.
Cleghorn, has been dead these many years.
[ 32 ]
A pastoral address,
Staley, Thomas Nettleship, 1823-1898.
Honolulu, Printed at the Hawaiian gazette office, 1865.
Ntote E., page 13.
Those who still survive from the times of the First Kamehameha
agree as to the physical deterioration of the people,
with more than one I have conversed on this subject. Their
impression is that it has resulted from the disuse imposed by
the Missionaries, of their old manly exercises, wrestling,
throwing the spear, sliding on boards down deep descents,
surfriding, etc. A distinguished English gentleman, in 1831,
to the Rev. H. Bingham a letter, a printed copy of which I
have before me, protesting against this policy. Sir E. Belcher,
in his voyage round the world, says of Oahu:
"On the first glance, I thought it had retrograded compared
with what we left it just ten years before, in 1827. The
appearance of the natives was miserable and dirty. The habit of
frequent bathing and swimming which constituted half their
existence is exploded.". t
Dr. Anderson virtually apologizes for the missionary prohibition
of Hawaiian amusements, by quoting the author -of the Poly
nesian researches as to gambling and the abuses to which they
led. This is the old Puritan principle, which, if carried out,
would put an end to the athletic pursuits and recreations of
every Christian country in Europe. The abuses must be corrected.
It is not needful to denationalize a country in order
to Christianize it. Not so did the first Evangelizers of Europe
after the destruction of the Roman Empire.
The wide world magazine.
Oct 1900- march 1901
New York : International News Company,
ODDS AND ENDS. 623
Io-BURIED UP TO THE NECK IS S.AND IN THE SANDWTCH ISLANDS.
A sand-bath is a hygienic luxury of compara-
tively ancient date, but the inventiveness of the
Sandwich Island natives has given it a newer
and more amusing significance. Burying a man
alive in sand has become one of the current
jokes of the day. The victim must be a willing
one. He stretches himself flat on the ground,
and sand is piled
sidered in the light of
artistic finish to get up a
weeping-scene. A score of
men, eye-glass in eye,
arrayed in the sweet
simplicity of striped bath-
ing-jerseys, amuse them-
selves leaning on each
other's shoulders, and pre-
tend to sob in a most heart-
breaking manner. The long
deal boards for surfriding
look really unpleasantly like
coffin-lids, and the whole
business – as a theatrical
out a rival in the annals
and traditions of the bath-
Navy, the Standard Publication of the U.S. Navy ... v. 6