osbourne : surf and
Duffield Osbourne : Surf
and Surf-Bathing, 1890.
Osborne, Duffield: Surf and
July-December 1890, pages 100 to 112.
The Out of
Door Library- Athletic Sports.
Sons, New York, 1897, Chapter IV, pages
237 to 272.
SURF AND SURF-BATHING.
By Duffield Osborne.
of surf- bathing as a sport may be said to be of fairly recent
growth in this country.
perhaps realize the fact, it is nevertheless true that most of
the beaches where now the surf curls over net-works of life
lines, and where the brown-faced bathing-master lounges, lazy
yet watchful, before hundreds of gayly clad pleasure-seekers,
were solitudes but a few years since.
white-topped waves tumbled, one after another, unnoticed upon
the gray shore, the sea-breeze played only with the rank
grasses upon the dunes, while circling gull and tern screamed
their confidential communications to each other without fear
of being overheard by human eavesdroppers.
Saturdays, at the hour of full tide, did the scene change ;
and then perhaps a farm-wagon or so rolled heavily down to
where the ripples lapped the sand ; a stout rope was drawn
from its coil under the seats and tied firmly around the hub
and axle; a dilapidated fish-house lent itself for a change of
garments, and finally, some bronzed ex-whaler, with his bulky
strength robed in a flannel shirt and old trousers tied with
ropes at waist and ankles, slipped his wrist through the
hand-loop at the free end of the rope and dragged it out into
the surf a sort of human anchor-buoy while women, children,
and less sturdy manhood clung to its now tightening, now
slackening length, and sputtered and shrieked over their
at a bound from farm-wagon, hand-looped rope, and ex-whaler to
the less picturesque, but more effectual, appliances of
to-day, the following is by all odds the simplest and best.
ropes, firmly anchored, and so elevated from the shore as to
lie along the surface of the water, are run out to two heavy
log-buoys, also anchored, at a distance of seventy-five yards,
more or less, according to the character of both beach and
Half way from
the shore to the buoys these ropes should be connected by a
transverse line with cork-floats fastened at regular intervals
the distances being such that the cork-line shall rest upon
the water some yards beyond the point where the heaviest
closer in shore, it is likely to become a source of serious
danger, for, diving beneath a heavy wave and coming up under,
or perhaps being thrown with more or less force against, a
taut rope or a rough cork-buoy, has been the occasion of many
painful hurts, and serious injury can be very readily
had to the above caution, this system of life-lines is really
safer than much more elaborate contrivances.
children, and the inexperienced in general should keep within
the rectangle formed by the shore, the long ropes, and the
cork-line ; and they would, moreover, do wisely to stay near
that rope lying upon the side from which the surf may "set."
Then, if swept
off their feet, the chances are all in favor of their being
carried within reach of some support which will keep them up
assistance can be had.
hardly necessary to say that any such complication of lines as
is seen at some points of Coney Island, for instance, would be
a danger rather than a safeguard in any surf heavy enough to
"throw " a bather.
A word as to
bathing costumes may be of some service here.
A man's suit
should be of flannel, because that material is both warm and
light ; it should be made in one piece, sleeveless, reaching
just to the knee, belted in at the waist, and, above all,
There are few,
nowadays, who do not appreciate the privilege of playing with
the Atlantic Ocean ; but perhaps there are fewer still who
have ever taken the ...
... trouble to
study the character and humors of their playmate for he is
full of tricks, this same ocean, and his jests are sometimes
sadly practical ; he is all life and good spirits the jolliest
of jolly company when he is in the humor ; but he must be
treated with tact, tact born of a knowledge of his ways and
moods ; and, above all, his would-be friends must learn to
recognize when he is really angry, and then they must leave
him to rave or grumble alone until boisterous good-nature
resumes its sway.
Watch and note
the character of the surf and the formation of the beach for a
few days ; the knowledge gained may be useful.
Do you see
that line of breakers a quarter of a mile away?
There lies the
bar, and to-day the surf is heavy enough to break upon it,
though the depth there must be at least six feet.
is shallower, and, if you are ambitious and foolish, you can
wade and swim out there and meet the waves first-hand.
It is not
worth while to run the risk, though ; the seas will usually
form again long before they reach the shore, and, if you are
sensible, you can enjoy them fully as much here as if you had
put several hundred yards between yourself and help in the
contingency of accident.
No, it is not
remarkably rough now ; but last week ! you should have been
There had been
great tumults far out beyond that smoke you see floating above
the horizon, where some hidden steamer is ploughing her way
through blue water; and the great seas rolled and tumbled upon
the bar and broke there, but they had no time
onward under their own impulse and beaten out of shape by
fiercely thronging successors, they rushed in toward the
shore, a seething turmoil of foam, sweeping the sand from one
side and heaping it up on another all white above and gray
below from bar to beach.
there may be scarce a ripple; you would not know there was an
outer bar, and the wavelets, as they lap the sand, will seem
so placid that you can not conceive how they could ever have
lost their temper.
In spite of
all its changes, however, the surf has sometimes local
characteristics as fixed as anything can be with which the
fickle ocean has to do.
on the Atlantic coast the storms are generally bred and
nurtured in the east ; the milder weather is born of
western winds, and therefore it is that those who have spent
much time upon the New Jersey beaches have probably noticed
that during very heavy weather the waves, as a rule,
rollstraight upon the shore ; while when the surf is lighter
it is apt to run diagonally, or, as they say, "sets" from the
On the Long
Island coast all this is reversed ; there, when the storm
winds prevail, the "set" is strong from the east, and the foam
and breakers race along the beach from Montauk toward the
Metropolis ; while at other times the surf will usually run
It is hardly
necessary to say that a surf without "set" is far more
agreeable and somewhat safer.
A bather is
not forced to fight constantly against the impulse that is
drifting him down the beach and away from companions, ropes,
and height of the waves depend mainly upon influences at work
far out upon the ocean, but the beach, as shaped by its watery
assailants, reacts upon them in turn.
surf will be found under the following conditions :
there be a storm well out at sea, sending the big rollers
straight onto the beach, and then a sharp wind on shore for a
The effect of
this will be, in the first instance, to thin the waves, and he
who is fortunate enough to make trial of them undersuch
circumstances will find a high, clean-cut surf, each breaker
of which combs over in even sequence, and yet without such
weight or body of water as to seriously threaten his
same wind off-shore blow for a few hours longer, the tops of
the waves will be cut off and the ocean be come too calm to be
I speak of a
"fine surf," but were each man asked what he understands by it
or by the term "good bathing," his definition would probably
be largely governed by his skill and ability to take care of
what would be highly satisfactory to a good ...
would be altogether too rough for those compelled by weakness,
timidity, or inexperience to stand near the shore and look on
; while what might be agreeable to them would be tame for him.
The opinion of
such as say, "Wasn t it splendid to-day ! Why, I swam way out
to the bar," need not be considered.
enjoy surf-bathing ; it is only the swimming that they care
for, and they would doubtless be even better pleased at any
point on Long Island Sound.
But what I
take to be, and what I mean by, "a good bathing-day," is one
on which a man who understands himself can take the surf as it
comes, either alone or "with convoy," and yet, when there is
an ever-present excitement in the knowledge that a second's
may result in an overthrow of both his person and his pride.
from the water to the beach itself we find its formation
varies, from day to day and from year to year,almost as much
as do the waves that are forever smiting it. It may deepen
gradually or abruptly, and the shoaling of an abrupt beach is
usually the result of some days heavy sea "setting" from one
direction or the other, which cuts away the sand above low
water-mark and spreads it out over the bottom.
characteristic which at the same time varies and affects us
most is the position and depth of what is known as the
"ditch," that is, where, sometimes at a few feet, sometimes at
several yards from the shore, will be found a sudden declivity
caused by the continual pounding of the surf along one line,
and consequently lying farther out in heavy weather, and
As a source of
danger this same "ditch " is often very material.
Often a man
ignorant of the surf, perhaps a poor swimmer or no swimmer at
all, starts to wade out waist or breast deep.
To his eyes
there is no sign of peril ; one step more, and lo ! he is
beyond his depth ; and that, too, just where the waves are
pounding him down and the conditions most potent to deprive
him of his much-needed presence of mind.
Nor is this
all ; he may not, of his own free will, take that last step
which involves him in all this difficulty, for it is at the
edge of the "ditch" where the "under-tow " is strongest ; nay,
more the very strength of the "under-tow " depends largely
upon the depth of the ditch.
have all heard a great deal about this "under-tow," as though
it were some mysterious force working from the recesses of a
treacherous ocean to draw unwary bathers to their doom.
As a matter of
fact its presence is obviously natural, and the explanation of
it more than simple.
As each wave
rolls in and breaks upon the beach, the volume of water which
it carries does not remain there and sink into the sand ; it
flows back again, and, as the succeeding wave breaks over it,
the receding one forms an under-current flowing outward of
strength proportionate to the body of water contained in each
breaker, and, again, proportionatein a great measure to the
depth of the ditch.
latter is an appreciable depression, it can be readily seen
that the water of receding waves will flow in to it with
similar effect to that of water going over a fall, and that a
person standing near is very likely to be drawn over with it,
and thus, if the ditch is deep enough, carried out of his
This is all
there is to the much-talked-of "under-tow " and the numerous
accidents laid to its account.
It may be well
to speak here of an other phenomenon not infrequently
I do not
recall ever seeing the name by which it is known in print,
and, as the word is ignored by Webster, I shall invent my own
spelling and write it "sea-poose."
This term is
loosely used on different parts of the coast, but the true
significance of it is briefly this :
sometimes come, at every bathing-ground, days when the ocean
seems to lose its head and to act in a very capricious way.
occasions it often happens that the beach is cut away at some
one point, presumably where the sand happens to be softer and
less capable of resisting the action of the water.
then be found a little bay indenting the shore, perhaps ten
feet, perhaps ten yards.
rolling into such a cove are deflected somewhat by its sides
and "set "together at its head, so that two wings of a
breaker, so to speak, meet and, running ...
out from the point of junction, form a sort of double
"under-tow," which will, if the conditions that cause it
continue, cut out along its course a depression or trench of
varying depth and length.
It can be
readily understood that such a trench tends to strengthen the
current that causes it, and these two factors, acting and
reacting upon each other, occasion what might be called an
artificial "under-tow" which is sometimes strong enough to
carry an unwary bather some distance out, in a fashion that
will cause him either to be glad he is, or to wish he were,
within the rectangle of the life lines.
sometimes heard old surfmen speak of what they call a " false
poose," but I have never been able to find out just what was
meant by the expression, much less its causes and character.
therefore leave the question for those who delight to delve
into the mysteries of local nomenclature.
standing upon the dunes, our eyes have wandered over the
expanse of ocean with a glance more critical and inquiring as
it drew near the shore.
The salt savor
of the breeze is, at the same time, a tonic and an anodyne ;
we are drowsy, but the sea yet draws us to itself with an
irresistible impulse ; the waves are rolling straight in and
breaking high and clean ; shall we plunge into their cool
depths ; shall we combat their strength ; or ride them as they
come galloping from the blue to the green, and from the green
to the white, until at last they fall spent upon the gray sand
of the beach ?
Who is there
can stand by and resist such temptation !
But wait !
is not a solitary sport.
See ! the
beach is thronged with gay toilets and bright sunshades, and
the water has already given place to many.
couple as they run gracefully down to the shore ; they dash
confidently out ; now they have almost reached the line where
the waves are breaking ; he takes her hands, and they stand
prepared to "jump " the breakers and then a big, foamy crest
curls over them and falls with a roar ; and, as it rolls in,
you think you see a foot reaching up pathetically out of its
depth, and now a hand some yards
away, until at last, from out the shallows of the spent wave
two dazed and bedraggled shapes stagger to their feet and
look, first for themselves, and then for each other.
A broad smile
runs along the line of pretty toilets, and the gay sunshades
nod their appreciation.
some men, just where the breakers comb, and, as each wave
succeeds its precursor and rises into a crest, you may see the
half-dozen brown-armed figures shooting over, like so many
porpoises, and plunging head foremost under the advancing hill
Look ! there
come some big ones one, two, three of them !
see them too, and press out a few yards ...
deeper water ; and then the diving commences.
It is sharp
work this time ; the big ocean-coursers are running close upon
each other s heels, and the heads scarcely emerge after the
first before the second is curling directly above ; now they
have passed, and each breathless bather looks around to see
how the rest have fared three, four, five but where is the
A roar of
laughter floats shoreward as a demoralized form is seen to
gather itself up, almost upon the beach ; that last breaker of
the trio struck too quickly for him ; he cannot ...
... tell you
just how many somersaults he has turned since the ocean
proceeded to take him in hand, but he is sure that they
numbered somewhere among the twenties.
Yes, it is
brisk sport, and we must "go in."
But then, it
does not look comfortable, to be thrown ; nor will it please
our conceit to so minister to the good-natured mirth of that
pleasanter to be among the laughers and so we shall be.
To that end a
few hints will perhaps be found useful, and even though what I
shall say may, when said, seem to be obvious enough, yet it is
amazing how few people will, of themselves, perceive the
obvious and utilize their perceptions.
scornful friend, who think you know it all ; you will go to
Southampton next summer, and the spirit of prophecy being upon
me you will be thrown, ignominiously thrown, eight times
inside of two weeks ; so, remember that much that is "obvious"
occult after all, or at least might as well be, as far as
practice is concerned.
And now, to
return to the ocean and to didactics.
assume, in the first place, that you are able to swim, and
further, that you are not minded to follow the inglorious, yet
really dangerous, example of those who wait for a calm
interval, and then, rushing through the line of breakers,
spend their time swimming out beyond.
take your place just where the seas comb.
will vary somewhat with the height of the waves, but you will
stand, for the most part, in water about waist deep (as shown
in Fig. 1).
particular breaker look to be heavier than the preceding,
remember that it will strike further out and that you must
push forward to meet it.
Then, if you
are where you should be, it will comb directly above your
Wait until it
reaches that point of its development, for if you act too soon
or too late your chances of being thrown are greatly
increased, and, with the white crest just curving over you,
dive under the green wall of water that rises up in front.
Dive just as
you would from a low shore, only not quite so much downward
say at an angle of twenty degrees off the horizontal (Figs. 2
and 3) ; your object being to slip under the incoming volume
of water, to get somewhat into the "under-tow," and yet to run
no risk of running afoul of the bottom.
the wave, the deeper will be the water in which you
stand, and the
deeper you can and should dive.
antagonist be very big and strong, you will find it advisa-
The Saturday Bath in the Old Days. (illustration?)
... ble to
strike out the instant you have plunged ; very much on the
theory that, as a bicycle will stand when in motion and fall
the instant it stops, so a man can, by swimming under water,
keep control of and balance himself much better against the
peculiar vibratory motion which one experiences when under a
big wave and surrounded by conflicting currents.
also tend to bring you to the surface again under full
control, and, provided you have acted with judgment, you will
when the wave has passed, standing on about the line from
which you plunged.
A thing good
to remember but difficult to explain the cause of, is that
extraordinarily heavy waves almost invariably travel by
threes; that is, very often, when you have been standing at
one spot and taking perhaps a dozen breakers, you will of a
sudden see, rolling in from the bar, a hill of water and foam
much higher and heavier than those that have gone before.
Then be sure
that there are two more of similar magnitude close behind it
and push forward as fast as you can.
If it seems
very heavy and you have time, you may try to get beyond the
break and ride them in comfort, but if this is impossible, you
must dive low, swim, come to the surface promptly, dash the
water from your eyes, and be ready for numbers two and three ;
and when all have passed, if you are still in good shape, you
will find some long draughts of air very agreeable.
will happen that you cannot get far enough out in time to meet
these big seas at the proper point, and then it is that your
reputation as a surf -man will be in clanger, at least among
those who judge by success alone.
There is only
one thing to do ; dive under the foam as it boils toward you
dive deep and swim hard.
The wave and
the "under-tow " will be here commingled in a sort of
whirlpool, and you will need all your strength and skill to
yourself to be twisted but a few inches from your course, and
but doubtless you understand.
There is a
rather amusing way of playing with the surf on days when it is
fairly high, but thin and without much force.
diving as the breaker commences to comb, throw yourself over
backward and allow your feet to be car- ...
... ried up
into its crest.
have judged its strength accurately and given yourself just
enough back somersault impetus, you will be turned completely
over in the wave (Figs. 4 and 5), and ...
with it and upon your feet ; only be careful in picking out
your plaything, and don t select one that will pound you into
the sand, or perhaps refuse to regulate the number of
somersaults according to your wishes or intentions.
Now, it is
more than possible that, being a good swimmer, and having
first made personal trial of both beach and surf, you may
desire to offer your escort to well, to your sister ; and
right here let me note a few preliminary cautions.
to take a woman into the surf where there is any reason for an
experienced surfman to anticipate a sea which, unaccompanied,
you would have any difficulty in meeting ; or
When the water
in the ditch is more than breast deep ; or When the "under-tow
"or "set" is especially strong ; or When there is any
irregularity of the beach which might cause a "sea-poose " to
You may also
find it wise to observe the following :
Never take a
woman out side the life-lines, and never promise her, either
expressly or by implication, that you will not let her hair
impress it upon her that she must do exactly as you say, that
a moment s hesitation due to timidity or lack of confidence,
or, worse than all, anything like panic or an attempt to break
from you and escape by flight, is likely to precipitate a
disaster which, unpleasant and humiliating when met alone, is
trebly so in company.
having read your lecture on the duty of obedience, etc., lead
Of course, if
the water deepens gradually and the surf is very light, you
may go beyond the breakers, but in that event no skill is
called for and no suggestions needed.
several good ways of holding a woman in the surf, but the best
and safest in every emergency is that shown in Fig. 6. You
thus stand with your left and her right side toward the ocean,
and as the wave rises before you, your companion should, at
the word, spring from the sand while at the same
moment you swing her around with all your force, and throw her
back ward into the advancing breaker (Fig. 7).
observe that your own feet are always firmly planted on the
bottom, the left foot about twelve inches advanced, and your
body and shoulders thrown forward, so as to obtain the best
brace against the shock of the water.
of preserving your equilibrium is largely one of proper
balancing, especially when, as is often the case, you are
carried from your foothold and ...
yards toward the shore.
s weight and impetus, as well as the position in which she
strikes the wave that is, directly in front of you, all tend
to make your anchorage more secure, or in case of losing it,
your balance the easier to maintain.
The body of
the wave will, of course, pass completely over you (as shown
The instant it
has so passed and your head emerges, clear your eyes, regain
your position (you will practically drop into it again), and
if carried shoreward, press out to the proper point so as to
be ready for the next.
exceptionally heavy sea roll in, endeavor to push forward to
meet it as if you were alone, being very careful, however, not
to get out of depth.
almost always disastrous.
If the sea
strikes before you can reach it, there is nothing to do but
bend your head and shoulders well forward, brace yourself as
firmly as possible, and thus, presenting the least surface for
the water to take hold of, and getting the full benefit of the
"under-tow," swing your companion (who has also bent low and
thrown herself forward) horizontally under the broken wave
If she has had
much experience, it will be still better for you to dive
together, side by side.
dropping this branch of the subject I wll call attention
briefly to another way of carrying a woman through the surf.
Let her stand
directly in front of and facing you (as shown in Fig. 10).
she springs and is pushed backward through the wave somewhat
as in the former instance (Fig. 11).
disadvantages of this method are, first : that you lose in
impetus by pushing rather than swinging your companion ;
second, that she cannot herself see what is coming ; third,
that neither is in as convenient a position to hurry forward
to meet an exceptionally heavy wave ; and fourth, that you
have not as good a hold in case a sea breaks before it reaches
you, or any other emergency arises.
In all that
has been said, bear in mind that the cardinal secret of
surf-bathing, in all contingencies, is proper balancing, and
nothing but experience seconding knowledge can teach you to
measure forces and judge correctly to that end.
So far the sea
has been a good-natured though sometimes a rough playfellow
never really irritable or vindictive ; but unfortunately this
disposition cannot be counted upon.
That there are
upon ocean-bathing, he who has been present when human life
was being fought for can abundantly testify.
To be sure,
most of the accidents are results of carelessness or ignorance
; but then the same may be said of accidents everywhere, and a
short summary of the dangers peculiar to the surf may be of
Some of these
have been already indicated, as, for instance, dangers arising
from the "under-tow."
This by itself
is not likely to trouble anyone except a very poor swimmer,
and then only when the ditch is deep ; for the reason that the
power of the "under-tow " is confined practically to within
the line of breakers and cannot carry a bather any distance.
In the case of
a "sea-poose," however, it is different.
I have seen a
current of this character running out for many yards beyond a
man s depth, and against which ...
... a strong
swimmer would find it almost impossible to make headway.
such instances are rare, but he who may be thus entangled must
remember, the moment he realizes his predicament,
attempting to fight the current and swim directly toward the
beach, he, as a general thing, only wastes his strength.
He must strike
out for a few yards along shore, and a slight effort so
directed will soon take him out of the dangerous influence.
"under-tow" may help to a disaster in the following way : As a
rule, there is no real danger in being thrown by a breaker,
but there have been occasions when an inexperienced or
exhausted bather has been struck in such a way, or thrown with
such force, as to be more or less injured or dazed; and then,
before he could regain control of himself, and while prostrate
in the water, he has been drawn back by the "under-tow,
"rolled under and pounded down by each succeeding breaker, and
finally even drowned.
majority, however, of drowning accidents on the sea-board that
is, of those which can be even indirectly
the surf take place under the following circumstances :
swimmer comes to the beach, entirely ignorant of the strength
and ways of the ocean ; he sneers at the warnings of surf-men,
and, choosing a calm interval, dashes through the line of
breakers and amuses himself by swimming out ; ropes and
entirely beneath his notice.
begins to feel tired ; the chop of the seas splashes up into
his nose and eyes ; it is not so easy as swimming in still
water, and he concludes to come in.
chances are that he will do this without any serious
difficulty, even though he does not quite understand how to
swim high, with long strokes, ...
Page 109 ?
... when on
the inner slope and summit of each wave, until it fairly
shoots him toward the shore ; and then to rest and hold his
own while on the outer slope and in the trough.
always, however, just a possibility, and the stronger the surf
the more possible is it that the inexperienced swimmer can not
come through the line of breakers when and where he wants to ;
he must wait their pleasure, and, if he has measured his
strength closely and the delay be long, it is easy to see how
that, in trying to pass, he may be thrown down into the "
under-tow " and lack sufficient strength to extricate himself.
caution and life-lines, surf dangers are best provided against
by a long rope with a slip-noose at the end, either wound on a
portable reel or coiled and placed at the lowest point of the
rescuer, throwing the noose around his waist, can make his way
to a drowning man, and both can be drawn in by those on shore.
In default of
some such contrivance, the next best thing is for all the
able-bodied to form a chain of hands ; for, let me say, there
is nothing more difficult, even for a strong swimmer and
expert surf-man, than bringing a drowning person in through or
out of a line of heavy breakers.
I recall an
incident which happened some years since at Bridgehampton,
Long Island, and which illustrates the difficulty of which I
clergyman had arrived only the day be- ...
... fore ; he
was unable to swim a stroke ; and his first exploit was to
wade out into the ocean, entirely ignorant of the fact
that the ditch was that day both abrupt and deep or perhaps
even that ...
... there was
such a thing as a ditch and that a single step would take him
from a depth of four feet and safety, into
one of six and
took the step, or the "under- tow" took it for him, is not
material, but the bathing-master and one other saw the
trouble, dashed in, and, reaching the drowning man, were able
to keep his head above water ; but, what with this and
fighting the waves, they could not seem to make an inch
There were not
many on the beach at the time, and only four or five men who
could be of any use.
A chain of
hands was promptly formed, but it was not long enough to bring
the inside man into water less than waist deep, and the
pouring into the big ditch, sucked with all its might.
So they swung
backward and forward, now gaining, now losing ground, and
meanwhile the bathing-master and those nearest
him, being out
of depth, were fast becoming exhausted.
All, so far,
had instinctively tried to fight the waves, but it was evident
that a change of tactics was necessary ; and, fortunately, at
that moment a great ridge of water was seen sweeping in.
quickly then, and the word: "Let it throw us!" was passed down the line ; then it
struck, and, for a moment, there was a confused tangle of legs
and arms and heads and bodies swirled around, over, under, and
against each other.
in shore were hurled upon the beach, but the chain held
together long enough to drag the others into a place of
were no casualties of any consequence, I am very certain that
each link of that chain will not soon forget the experience
and will appreciate the truth of my last statement.
And now, let
me try to temper all this by saying that the dangers of
surf-bathing are, in reality, much less than those that beset
still-water swimming, where one is usually out of his depth
and with very little chance of escape in case of cramp or
exhaustion. Only make friends with the ocean, learn its ways,
study its moods a little, and humor it, while you keep careful
watch against any sudden ebullition of passion.
stand aloof can never realize the pleasure and ex-...
GLAD WEATHER. (illustration?)
of the sport they forego, nor shall they know the profound
satisfaction born of successfully combating a trio of big
rollers, which have tossed companions and rivals in confusion
on the beach.
Cater (2012-2106) : Duffield Osbourne : Surf and