Among the various sports and pastimes of the ancient
Hawaiians, but few now remain to them, the principal one of
which - enjoyed equally, we might say, by spectator and
participant - is that of surf-bathing, or more properly
There are a few localities on each of the islands where this
sport can be practiced when the weather allows and the surf
is at the right height; but of the different locations known
to us, Hilo seems to hold the palm.
The people of Kauai generally held the credit of excelling
in all the sports of the islands.
At one time they sent their champion surf-rider to compete
with chiefs in the sport at Hawaii, who showed them for the
first time man's ability to shoot, or ride, with the surf
without a surf- board.
Thrum, Thomas G.: Hawaiian
Almanac and Annual for 1882. Volume 8
Black & Auld, Printers, Honolulu, 1882.