Introduction
The text is a reprint of Ellis's account of surf-riding from Polynesian Researches (1831).

---

Page 333 Jay Charlton : Natives Bathing In The Surf Near 'Newport' Three Miles From Honolulu, Towards Diamond Head, 1875.

Page 334

One of the most characteristic is their love of aquatic sports.
Surf-bathing is a popular amusement, and is indulged in by men and women, boys and girls.
It requires great dexterity and courage, and also a rough day and a heavy surf.
Strong planks, about two feet wide and from six to twenty feet long, are used.
Armed with these, the bathers swim out to the first line of breaker, and by the use of strength of muscle and sleight-of-hand manage to duck and dive among them until they select an incoming wave before which they place themselves, lying or kneeling on the surf-board. riding in, as it were, upon the neck and mane of their furious chargers.
Surf-board play is one of the ancient sports of Hawaii, and some of the natives display great in-inidity and skill in it.

---

Leslie's Illustrated Weekly F. Leslie, New York. Volume 36 Number 1006, January 23 1875. Hathi Trust https://hdl.handle.net/2027/pst.000020241384

---