Introduction

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The reader will note the distinction between this great tidal wave, or general undulation, and the waves raised by the friction of the wind.
The agitation at first extends little below the surface, but if the wind blows violently and for several hours, even the fountains of the great deep are troubled, and the billows rise higher and higher, until their "monstrous heads" seem to menace the mariner's destruction.
On the coast of Africa, the huge waves, called rollers, which are almost perpendicular, attain the altitude of 50 feet!
The highest waves of the Atlantic, according to the latest scientific research, measure- in height 43 feet; main distance between each wave, 559 feet; width from crest to crest, 600 feet; interval of time between each wave, 16 seconds ; velocity of each wave per hour, 32 1/2miles.
Let the reader endeavour to picture to himself the spectacle presented by a succession of these tremendous billows sweeping along at a velocity equal to that of a fast railway train, their heads crowned with glittering spray and foam, their depths black as Erebus itself !

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The violent commotion of the billows is confined to the particular area affected by the wind; but the ground- swell, which results from a long- continued gale, is transmitted through the ocean to regions far remote, until it either subsides from the friction of the water, or is checked by the resistance of land.
In the latter case it dashes against the rocks in foam and spray, or rolls upon the shore in crested surf.
Who, that has lived by the sea-side, is not familiar with the peculiar roar of the ground-swell? with the heavy HwA of each wild wave as it breaks upon the beach? with its lingering, melancholy sound, like that of a distant death-bell ?
It is to this, surely, that Haliburton alludes when he speaks of '' Ocean's surfy, slow, deep mellow voice, full of mystery and awe, mourning over the dead it holds in its bosom, or lulling them to unbroken slumbers in the chambers of its vasty depths."

During heavy gales on the coast of Madras, the surf breaks in nine fathoms water at the distance of four, and even four and a half miles from the shore.
At such times no boat could live in it, and the largest vessels are compelled to cut their cables and run out to sea.
The fury of the gale is sometimes so intense, as actually to subdue the heaving of the billows and scatter the surface in a heavy shower, called by sailors " spoon-drift."

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Its saline particles frequently impregnate the air to the distance of 50 miles inland.
Even in fair weather the surf rises to a height of three feet at a distance from the shore of one hundred yards, and the natives pilot the voyager through it in boats called catamarans, which are specially constructed for the purpose.
The boatmen are skilful, yet their skiffs are frequently capsized, and the passenger and his luggage treated to an unexpected immersion.

The rolling breakers on the west coast of Ireland are sublime - they frequently attain the height of 50, and even 150 feet !
At the back of the Isle of Wight the waves break in rough weather with tremendous force, and dash their spray against the chalky cliffs as if they would sweep away so puny a barrier.

Such are a few of the phenomena of Ocean.
Who that contemplates them can refrain from a feeling of awe and wonder, an emotion of devout reverence, an overpowering sense of the wisdom and majesty of the Creative Mind?
Not the heavens alone attest his greatness and declare His glory; but the sea also is His handiwork, and, in silence, we adore!

Authorities.(adjusted)
Humboldt, Cosmos;
Mrs. Somerville, Connection of the Physical Sciences;
Captain Maur7, Physical Geography of the Sea;
A. K. Johnston, Physical Atlas.

Adams, William Henry Davenport : Marvels of Creation: Earth and Sea T. Nelson and Sons, London, 1867. Internet Archive https://archive.org/details/marvelscreation00adamgoog