pods
for primates : a catatogue of surfboards in australia since 1900
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colvocoresses : expedition,
1863
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G. Colvocoresses :
Goverment Expedition, Hawaii, 1855.
Extracted
from
Colvocoresses, George
Musalas (1816-1872):
Four years
in the government exploring expedition.
J. M. Fairchild
& Co., New York, 1855.
Collection: Making
of America Books
Introduction.
Where?, Hawaii
circa 1855
Page 218
On returning to
the beach, I found it thronged with native children, who were amusing themselves
in the surf.
This seems to
be a favorite sport, not only with children, but men and women, and it
is a novel and a beautiful sight to see them coming in on the top of a
wave moving with a velocity that would overtake the swiftest of our racehorses.
Sometimes they
will suddenly disappear, and thus remain until another roller comes along,
and dashes them upon the beach.
They will not
engage in the sport unless the surf is running high.
The surf-board
which they use is made of some light wood, and is about six feet in length
and twenty inches wide.
It appeared to
me to be a very dangerous amusement, especially for children; but they
seemed not to mind it.
I continued to
gaze on the scene until our sun-down boat shoved off to return to the ship.
First and Subsequent
Editions
Colvocoresses, George
Musalas (1816-1872):
Four years
in the government exploring expedition.
J. M. Fairchild
& Co., New York, 1855.
Collection: Making
of America Books
University of Michigan
Library, 2006.
surfresearch.com.au
Geoff Cater (1997-2007) : G. Colvocoresses
: Government Expedition, 1855.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1855_Colvocoresses.html