surfresearch.com.au
 |
surfresearch.com.au
jenkins : surf sport, 1850
|
John Jenkins
: Sporting in the Surf, 1850.
Extract
from
Jenkins, John S.:
Voyage of the
U.S. exploring squadron, commanded by Captain Charles Wilkes,
of the United
States Navy, in 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, and 1842 :
together with
explorations and discoveries made by
Admiral d'Urville,
Captain Ross, and other navigators and travellers,
and an account
of the expedition to the Dead Sea, under Lieutenant Lynch.
J.M. Alden, Auburn,
New York, 1850, pages 369-370.
www.google.com.au/books
Also printed in
Jenkins J S;
Expedition to the South Seas and the
Pacific.
: T. Nelson and Sons, London1853, pages
373-374
Introduction.
Also see:
1845 Charles
Wilkes : Narrative of the U.S. Expedition.
Extracts from
Narrative of the U. S. Exploring Expedition during the Years 1833-1842,
Whittaker,
Philadelphia, 1845, Volumes IV and V.
Page 369
SPORTING
IN THE SURF 1840
...
Ancient manners
and customs are nearly done away, and the natives are gradually accustoming
themselves to the habits of the whites.
Some few of their
amusements- the relics of former times- are still preserved.
They are an amphibious
race, and being totally fearless of danger, will spend hours at a time,
disporting themselves, in the most furious surf.
In bathing, each
person is usually provided with a surf-board.
This is from
six to nine feet long, and from twelve to eighteen inches wide.
It is from one
to two inches thick in the centre, but quite thin at the edges.
Throwing himself
flatwise upon this, the bather plunges forward from the shore on the top
of the recoiling surf.
When he meets
a roller he dives under it, and emerging on the other side, darts ahead
once more with great rapidity, till he gains the outer line of breakers,
from a quarter to half a mile distant from the shore.
Now watching
the opportunity, he mounts one of the loftiest waves, balancing himself
on his board on his hands and knees, or extended thereupon at full length.
With the speed
of a maddened courser ho darts towards the shore, his shout of triumph
ringing loud and clear, and distinctly heard above the roar of the surge,
if he is so fortunate as to distance his companions.
Accidents sometimes
occur, but ...
Page 370
... if the bather
is dismounted from his board, or thrown from the wave on which he has placed
himself, nothing daunted by the failure, he attempts to reach another,
and though still unsuccessful, will persevere till he is obliged to return
to the beach, at which he often arrives panting for breath and completely
exhausted by his efforts.
This is esteemed
glorious sport by all ages and classes, and both sexes engage in it indiscriminately,
with nothing on but the maro.
|
Jenkins, John
S.:
Voyage of the
U.S. exploring squadron, commanded by Captain Charles Wilkes,
of the United
States Navy, in 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, and 1842 :
together with
explorations and discoveries made by
Admiral d'Urville,
Captain Ross, and other navigators and travellers,
and an account
of the expedition to the Dead Sea, under Lieutenant Lynch.
J.M. Alden, Auburn,
New York, 1850, pages 369-370.
www.google.com.au/books
|
surfresearch.com.au
Geoff Cater (2011-2013) : John
Jenkins : Sporting in the Surf, 1850.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1850_Jenkins_Surf_Sport.html