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CHAPTER XVIII.
THE CUSTOMS.
...
Page 238
In all their
sports they are very active, and when at war impetuously brave, but not
cruel; they are excessively fond of swimming and playing in the surf, when
the sea is rough, and the surf rolls in towards the beach over the coral
rocks, or bank, which surrounds the island of Woahoo.
It is then that
the natives amuse themselves upon the surf-board: they proceed to the outer
edge of the bank with their board; when a heavy roller rises, they stand
ready, and, as it passes them, they dextrously rise on their board, which
buoys them up, and thus they ride triumphantly on the waves, which carries
them, with astonishing rapidity, to the beach.
Men, women, and
children may be seen constantly enjoying this sport whenever the surf rolls
regularly.
|
A narrative of the sufferings and adventures of C.H.B.: in a recent voyage. J.P. Callender, New York, 1836. |
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