In all their
sports they are very active, and when at war impetuously brave, but not
cruel; they are excessively fond of swimming and playing in the surf, when
the sea is rough, and the surf rolls in towards the beach over the coral
rocks, or bank, which surrounds the island of Woahoo.
It is then that the natives amuse themselves upon the surf-board: they proceed to the outer edge of the bank with their board; when a heavy roller rises, they stand ready, and, as it passes them, they dextrously rise on their board, which buoys them up, and thus they ride triumphantly on the waves, which carries them, with astonishing rapidity, to the beach.
Men, women, and children may be seen constantly enjoying this sport whenever the surf rolls regularly.
A narrative of the sufferings and adventures of C.H.B.: in a recent voyage.
J.P. Callender, New York, 1836.