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campbell : surfboard paddling, 1812 
Archibald Campbell : Surfboard Paddling, 1812.

Extracts from
Campbell, Archibald:
A voyage round the world, from 1806 to 1812: in which Japan, Kamschatka, the Aleutian Islands, and the Sandwich Islands were visited; including a narrative of the author's shipwreck on the Island of Sannack, and his subsequent wreck in the ship's long-boat; with an account of the present state of the Sandwich Islands, and a vocabulary of their language.
Van Winke, Wiley and Company, New York, 1817, pages 129, 131 to 132, 135, and 141.
A. Constable and Co., Edinburgh, 1816. (First Edition)
Broderick and Ritter, 20 James Street New York, 1919 (Second American edition)
Duke & Browne, 9 Broad-Street New York, 1822 (Third American edition)
University of Hawaii Press, 1967.
www.googlebooks
Introduction.
Campbell reports the use of the surfboard only as a means of transport, and does not record wave riding.
Other excerpts note the the use of tootooee-nut paste as a preserving agent on canoe hulls, the avoidance of taboo restrictions, and the incompatability of tapa cloth and sea water.

Note that the page numbers vary considerably between the various editions, for example the reference to surfboards appears on page 141 in the quoted text (first American edition, 1817), on pages 145 to 146 in the 1916 Edinburgh edition (Dela Vega et. al., page 13), and on pages 143-144 in the second American edition.


Page 129

Instead of candles, the tootooee-nut is used, which, being of an oily nature, yields a considerable quantity of light.
It grows upon a small tree, and is about the size of a horse-chestnut.
When pulled, they are thrown into water, and thqse that sink are reckoned sound; they are then baked under ground, and their shells broken off, in which state they are kept till required.
When used as candles, they string twenty or thirty upon a slit of bamboo, each of which will burn five or six minutes; but they require constant trimming, and it is necessary to reverse the torch whenever a nut is consumed, that the one under it may catch fire.
It must, therefore, be held by a person whose business it is to keep it always in order.

This nut, when pressed, yields an oil well adapted for mixing with paint.
The black colour, by which their canoes are painted, is produced by burning the nuts after they are pressed, and by the cinders of the torches, which are carefully preserved for the purpose; these are reduced to powder, and mixed with oil.

Page 131

The women are subject to many restrictions from which the men are exempted.
They are not allowed to attend the morai upon taboo days, nor at these times are they permitted to go out in a canoe.
They are never permitted to eat with the men, except when at sea, and then not out of the same dish.
Articles of delicacy, such as pork, turtle, shark, cocoa-nuts, bananas or plantains, are also forbidden.
Dog's flesh and fish were the only kinds of animal food lawful for them to eat; but since the introduction of sheep and goats, which are not tabooed, the ladies have less reason to complain.

Notwithstanding the rigour with which these ceremonies are generally observed, the women very seldom scruple to break them, when it can be done in secret; they often swim off to ships at night during the taboo; and I have known them eat of the forbidden delicacies of pork and sharks' flesh.
What would be the consequence of a discovery I ...

Page 132

... know not; but I once saw the queen transgressing in this respect, and was strictly enjoined to secrecy, as she said it was as much as her life was worth.

Page 135

This cloth (tapa), from its texture, is, when wetted, extremely apt to get damaged, in which state it tears like moist paper; great care, therefore, is always taken to keep it dry, or to have it carefully dried when it is wetted.
When they swim off to ships, they hold their clothes out of the water in one hand, occasionally changing it as it becomes fatigued.

Page 141

From their earliest years, the natives spend much of their spare time in the water, and constant practice renders them so dexterous, that they seem as much at their ease in that element as on land; they often swim several miles off to ships, sometimes resting upon a plank shaped like an anchor stock, and paddling with their hands, but more frequently without any assistance whatever.

Although sharks are numerous in these seas, I never heard of any accident from them, which I attribute to the dexterity with which they avoid their attacks.


Campbell, Archibald:
A voyage round the world, from 1806 to 1812: in which Japan, Kamschatka, the Aleutian Islands, and the Sandwich Islands were visited; including a narrative of the author's shipwreck on the Island of Sannack, and his subsequent wreck in the ship's long-boat; with an account of the present state of the Sandwich Islands, and a vocabulary of their language.
Van Winke, Wiley and Company, New York, 1817.

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Geoff Cater (2007) : Archibald Campbell : Surfboard Paddling, 1812.
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