surfresearch.com.au  research

Smidt & Hagens

http://openlibrary.org/books/OL6645912M/Under_Hawaiian_skies

http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.b58780

Author: FRANK G.CARPENTER
Publisher: DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY

http://archive.org/details/throughthephilip006240mbp

http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7072200M/The_races_of_mankind

Games Vergniigullgen Ul111.
The ancient Hawaiians numerous debates g). Mnastische unu company nomic games that they are not operated both by inclination occasion of his sport itself, as the ankh Darnit verbwldenen 'Vetten, vegen, velche en1en special charm she anf ausiibten. In fact pfiegten men and women often put their possessions on the success of the gauzes begfulStigten of them Kan1pfer or players, and belted the Wettkampfe ended without violent dispute among the 'vette Znschauenl ends.
Among the gymnastic SpieleD was the Fau8tkampf at the top as the most popular national sport. Fiir him gaited most rules, the observance of special referees fiber wakes wlIrde. As camphor were men AILS different Distlikten on odet princes-tl1Umenl. One consisting of many rl'ausenden crowd followed the 'Vettkampfe with team closest attention. Often remained the vanquished dead lie alu the field of battle, and with the jubilant shouting begriisste winner challenged new opponent until he was idersacher luedergeschlageu yon a fiber superior "~.
'Veniger dangerous, Varell also the very popular ring and karnpfe'. Vettlltufe in which the Hawaiians erne deployed large off permanently
Particularly exciting is del '"Holua" Spol't that the Downward slide ~ n alUMInIUM smooth schlittenful'Inigen boards gesta1tete steeply s Hiigeln existed. After a ge, valtigen ~ - nlanf \, the Kanakell yom fiber varfen horizontally on the Schlittell and l'asten steep -. \ Bhang many thousand feet, veit down, they stop machtell Beyor. 'Ver zuel'St the plane en-eichte, had won.
The wogs love the sea fiber ~ illes, there are kaUlll ge-, and vandtere unerschrockenere Sch Vimmer and divers than those ltlsulaner which can verden in the struggle with the dangers of Wassel'S yon at Au ~ ~ iemandem duration eITeicht.. ILLR favorite sport nn seas existed in immense Surf Sch ", and today it wit'd yon both sexes preferred to operate. Lit \ az, vei langeu meter and a half feet wide, smooth, polished board, sh, she vimmen far out to sea, the diving Miter
I '~
them entgegenkomrnenden waves until they reach the limit of the Surf, vellen reached HATED. Then they lie down with my face c n8ch down on the board and the highest Warted Brandnngswellen; i; ~ from riding on their rear sights they like wildfire after Kiiste: t "
"C" ..
 
 

1111
~-\uf eiller 800 Meter langen nnd einen Meter breiten Bahn "'tn'de ein beliebtes Kngelspiel )[aika mit rnndgescllliffenen Steinen gespielt, Es kam darauf an, dieselben moglichst weit zn rolleD und sie gleich- zeitig durch einen etwa 10 cm breiten, mit ~vei Pfiihlen bezeichneten Raum zu senden,
Ausser diesen gJ'Ulnastischen SpieleD kannten die Ha,vaiier mehrere Gesellschaftsspiele, yon denen das interessanteste eine Art Schach- spiel "konane" war, ,velch~o; auf einem in Felder getheilten Brette mit weissen und schwarzen Steinen gespielt wurde, Ein sehr beliebtes Spiel ,var das, "puhenebene", bei welchem ein Gegenstaud von Einigen der Anwesenden versteckt und yon Anderen gesucht wurde. Sogar Hahnenkampfe sind in miherer Zeit auf Ha,vaii ver- anstaltet ,vorden. AllSserdem gab es mehrere Spiele, wie "kiln" Imd "ume", welche des Nachts mId in wenig sittlicher Weise aufgefiilll1 ,vul'llen. -
Die alten Ha,vaiier batten nm' ,venige nnd sehr einfache Musik- instrumente. Ein guitarrenartiges Instrument atls Banlbusbolz mit drei aus Kokosfasenl gedI-ebten Saiten, ,vclche nach Quart-Intervallen gestimmt waren, diente ZW" BegleitUllg der Gesnnge. Die letzteren ,varen recht eintonig, sie bewegten sich eigentlich our in drei ver-
1schiedenen Noten, die jedoch mit besonders ausgepriigtem Rhythmus
gesuogen ,\"Urden. Eine aus Bambusroh.' gearbeitete Nasenflole ge- stat tete nur zwei '!'one zu blasen, mId drei verschiedene Arten yon
-Paukell, die aus Holz, Kokosnuss oder Kiirbis hergestellt WId mit Haifischhaut bezogen waren, dienten zur eintonigen BegleitUllg der Gesiinge oder Tiinze. Bei den letzteren kamen noch kleine castag- nettenartige IIlStrurnente zur Venvendung, die atlS Kiirbissen verfertigt und mit Steinchen gefiillt ,varen, um wahrend der THoze klappelllde GeliLtlSChe zu vemrsachen.
Das ,vareo die Instl"tllDeote der alten Hawaiier. Hetlte spielt die )Iusik eine wesentliche WId vortheilhaft "irkende Rolle im Leben der Kanaken, deren rnusikaIische Begabung allSSer Frage steht. Die meisten Eingebort?nen konnen singeD oder zum Gesang auf der ~[an- doline WId Gtritarre lJegleiten. Es giebt sogar eine grfissere Zahl hawaiischer Lieder, deren' Melodien zorn Theil originell sind. Fast aile tragen einen erotischen und sch,vermiithigen Charakter. SellJst in den Liebesliedern ist wenig ,"on deDI leichten Blute zu rnerkent welches dw'Ch die ~'\dern jeoer hannlosen nnd stets heiteren Nator- kinder rollt, die beim Sprechen lachen aber beim SingeD klagen. '\"enn der Vollmond am nachtlichen Himmel steht und mit seinen in jen.:r reineD ~-\tmosphiire nur wenig gesch,vachten Strahlen die u'Opisclle

188 ISLANDS HA \ V AI.
sports, they enter the ocean surf pushing before them their piece of wood up to a distance of half a mile, and then ceasing to swim icts stretch a flat on the board and suddenly, as if moved by a spring stand standing with arms extended,
balance, sometimes held on the crest of the waves, rolling in the hollow blade.
They speed  back to the beach at the speed of a gaIloping horse .
DSL do for any clothing that Ie malo, flap Grows tied around his waist to take their flesh dripping sun glints of gold,
board that supports disappears under the foam, and it is a strange sight to see these men supported on the water by a
invisible power.

of plrogues reversed, nets drying on poles, the whole fortune of five or six pecbeurs. However, several residents of Honolulu, strikes the advantages of position, have ele-pupil Gloves wooden cottages with verandahs overlooking Sul "sea oil jls live part of the year. Plilge The sandy gives toutc swimmers safety, a coral reef a flower water inter-called shark approach. \ Vaoikiki is an object of frequent walk-TRCS of crews and especially. riders, especially after I silmcIli in-noon, when business is ter-mined. foreigners go there in their
Buggy menu commc araicnee a thread car ~ t hitch from American or leg mounted on small horses of the country. But it kind of sport is chosen by preference lcs natives, that / iy excellent. The Ha, love v3iens mount a horse he enters cctte ° passion something of curios admirati ite, 'e that eprou-vcrent their aoieux a view of the first specimen of the equine race by any Navir; nteurs anclais. Women especially are intrepid, trust-larly camped on the high saddle mexicnine, not seated a) European fashion, but astride their mounts, they diricent with enercie toutc men. the elcBantes
wear an outfit for this special year,

186 ISLANDS HA'VAI.
hamlet in the junr, the, at the meeting point of two paths, the "amount of Ia Ia sea drill, the other winding of Ia Ie lonFi rating. II there should not paved avenues cbercher IES, IES resi-dencies sumptuous movement Ie, Ie noise Ho. noloIu; ever vehicle has rolled in IES barely leveled two streets lined with hedges invasive, there's pent circulate I'tle horse or litter . Foreigners, Fire nomhreux still remain mostly in their plantation several miles from the village., also houses worthy of the name are they strong Rarest Almost all leshabitations hidden under the date palms, palms and bamboos, either edge of the rivierc Ia or near sea soul huts of straw or branches intertwined with leg owners in the country-rants, simply just live the day on the day, carefree, happy as fish in water. comparison is all the more true it applies to a people amphibious
...
all these people the passing hain good moltle their existence and they swim plo ~ r ent sa115 never learned instinctively;} of 1iige] e softer, their favorite game is crazy it: itrer foot waterfalls, or 11 receive 'oir of Ia Ie CBOC blade.
Walluku the river, after a course of Flu "unruly passes a final level and pre-precipitates in I'Ocean at the bottom of a yearsc profondc.

JLA \ VAI. 18'7
Everywhere, rocks SUI]> lombent, and on both sides, leg loads Large trees parasitic plants lean over I'abime of oil mounts a fresh souffie the hottest hours of the day. The, morning to evening, children, youth £ ilies, take their antics. A narrow platform accede oil is crawling on the rur, o-sites Ia. Damp wall is Ie rendez.vous of intrepid divers. They are slow with installation provisions for the day, the gourds in. "i and flowers. EIIes rest there between two
bair, nades.
At times, we see them rise to the number of five or six, dressed in guirIandes, their long hair fluttering on the shirt hariolee, and to be placed on a ranr, born in the pre-cjpice. Then, casting a Grand cry eJles is eJanccnt by holding hand to reappear in the same order Ie, laughing, blinded, crown through leg falling on shoulders, appeIant their companions who were sitting thirty feet above the grassy terrace, Ie Huste forward, legs dangling, IES Observed!.
Men are fond of another year, one which requires little strength and flexibility com. ! Nudes. Equipped with a solid board six feet long and two wide, very smooth and carefully-oiled-ment, specially destiny cc Type Ii

188 ISLANDS HA \ V AI.
sports, they enter the sea when the surf. pushing them to their piece of wood until UOE distance of half a mile, and then the swim-ing, is allonr icts, ent it flat on the board and suddenly camille driven by a spring, stand upright, IES arms outstretched, in equilibrium, tant6t abducted on the crest of the waves, sometimes slippery areas in Ie hollow blade. The stream them back
~
to the beach Ja speed of a horse (: IAPO. lilies have everything, 'etement Ie that "the / o-lam of heautiful Grows tied around his waist their flesh ruisse} antes are in solei ! golden reflections, the board that supports us so I disappear, foam, and it's a show Etran (e that these men supported on the water by an invisible power.
We did walk with a maqui (: jndi not (: ene. HETEs he has presented NONS out honne appearance: small flaw, but ardent, impetuous, they head fine, see Ie hock, ie shoe menu ie broad chest of the horse. Cali-Cornie, and will support an capahles lonG 'journey, paces by tau paths. a random, and test them, Ie Pouzot father Doug offers one trip up to the I cascade Arc-en-ciel, three leagues from Milo, on the river. trail is rugged, graves and cutting. hedges, and provide it to our horses i'occasion Cairo proven. An hour

JlA\VAI. 18'7
De toutes parts, les rochers suI]>lombent, et, des deux rives, leg Grands arbres charges de plantes parasites s'inclinent sur I'abime d'oil monte un souffie frais aux heures les plus chaudes du jour. La, du matin au soir, des enfants, des jeunes £illes, prennent leurs ebats. Une etroite plate- forme oil l'on accede en rampant sur les rur,o- sites de Ia .paroi humide, est Ie rendez.vous des plongeuses intrepides. Elles s'y instal lent avec des provisions pour la journee, les calebasses de po"i et des fleurs. EIIes s'y reposent entre deux
bair,nades.
Par moments, on les voit se lever au nombre de cinq ou six, parees de guirIandes, leurs lonGs cheveux flottant au vent sur la chemise hariolee, et venir se placer sur un ranr, au born du pre- cjpice. Puis, jetant un Grand cri, eJles s'eJanccnt en se tenant par la main, pour reparaitre dans Ie meme ordre, rieuses, aveuglees, la couronne de traverS tombant sur leg epaules, appeIant leurs compaGnes qui, assises trente pieds plus haut sur la terrasse Gazonnee, Ie huste en avant, les jambes pendantes, Ies observeD!.

Les hommes affectionnent un autre exercice, lequel exige une force et une souplesse peu communes.
Munis d'une planche solide de six pieds de long sur deux de large, tres-lisse et soigneusement huilee, specialement destinee a ce genre

188 ILES HA\V AI.
de sport, ils entrent dans la mer au moment du ressac poussant devant eux leur piece de bois jusqu'a une distance d'un demi-mille; puis, cessant de nager, its s'allongent a plat ventre sur la planche et soudain, comme mus par un ressort, se dressent debout, Ies bras etendus, en equilibre, tantot enleves sur la crete des vagues, tantot glissant dans Ie creux de la lame.
Le flot les ramene vers la plage a la vitesse d'un cheval au gaIop.
lIs n'ont pour tout vetement que Ie malo, lambeau d'etoffe noue autour des reins; leurs chairs ruisselantes prennent au soleil des reflets d'or, la planche qui les supporte disparait sous I' ecume, et c'est un spectacle etrange que celui de ces hommes soutenus sur les eaux par une puissance invisible.

Nous avons fait marche avec un maqui(:non jndi(:ene. Les hetes qu'il nons a presentees out honne apparence : de petite faille, mais ardentes, fougueuses, elles ont la tete fine, Ie jarret see, ie sabot menu, Ie large poitrail du cheval .de Cali- Cornie, et seront capahles de supporter un lonG' voyage, aux allures vives, par taus les chemins. A tout hasard, et pour les eprouver, Ie pere Pouzot DOUg propose one excursion jusqu 'a la cascade de I' Arc-en-ciel, a trois lieues de Milo, sur la riviere. Le sentier est raboteux, coupe de fosses et. de haies, et fournira it nos montures i'occasion de Caire leurs preuves. Une heure plus
 

Bobby Breen in the film made from the book, "Hawaii Calls".

Panama Exposition Commission for the Territory of Hawaii, 1914
Length 32 pages
The New East Press, 12 Ichibeicho, Nichome, Azabu, Tokyo, ., 1917.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

The “Polynesian motif” defines a lineage of human mtDNA that is restricted to Austronesian-speaking populations and is almost fixed in Polynesians. It is widely thought to support a rapid dispersal of maternal lineages from Taiwan ?4000 years ago (4 ka), but the chronological resolution of existing control-region data is poor, and an East Indonesian origin has also been proposed. By analyzing 157 complete mtDNA genomes, we show that the motif itself most likely originated >6 ka in the vicinity of the Bismarck Archipelago, and its immediate ancestor is >8 ka old and virtually restricted to Near Oceania. This indicates that Polynesian maternal lineages from Island Southeast Asia gained a foothold in Near Oceania much earlier than dispersal from either Taiwan or Indonesia 3–4 ka would predict. However, we find evidence in minor lineages for more recent two-way maternal gene flow between Island Southeast Asia and Near Oceania, likely reflecting movements along a “voyaging corridor” between them, as previously proposed on archaeological grounds. Small-scale mid-Holocene movements from Island Southeast Asia likely transmitted Austronesian languages to the long-established Southeast Asian colonies in the Bismarcks carrying the Polynesian motif, perhaps also providing the impetus for the expansion into Polynesia.

http://www.cell.com/AJHG/abstract/S0002-9297%2811%2900010-3

Rising seas made China's ancient mariners
Environmental changes cultivated seafaring, not rice farming

http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/loc&CISOPTR=16

Reference number for image in collection no. 564: Ea-22

Caption on image: Indians landing provisions at Mora, Washingtonhttp://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/loc&CISOPTR=2105

Mike Hynson. Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel. Oversized oblong paperback. The long awaited book by Endless Summer surfer, Mike Hynson. 290 pages. SIGNED by Mike Hynson.

Fred Hemmings. The Soul of Surfing is Hawaiian. Surf Stories. New, hardcover in dustjacket. 1997 first edition, first printing. $30.
SIGNED by Fred Hemmings. New, hardcover in dustjacket. 1997 first edition, first printing.

Mike Doyle with Steve Sorensen. Morning Glass. Cloth spine hardcover. Limited to 1000 copies. SIGNED and Numbered. 2004. 247 pages. New.

L.A.Webber. How to Surf for the Beginner. 1964. Small staplebound booklet, 3 1/2 x 6 inches. Light wear. 32 pages. 

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Book Description: Paris: 1824-37. Hand-coloured and colour-printed line and stipple engraving. Good condition apart from some overall light soiling, minor foxing, and a few small brown stains in the margins. 9 x 12 5/8 inches. 12 1/8 x 18 5/8 inches. A distant view of Tinian Island, one of the Northern Mariana Islands in the western Pacific Ocean, as seen from the Caroline Islands, from Freycinet's important publication "Voyage autour du monde." Louis Claude Desaulces de Freycinet (1779-1842) was a French marine officer and explorer, who participated in several significant early 19th-century expeditions to relatively unknown areas in the southern hemisphere. In 1800, he joined one of the most important early explorations of Australia, which was commissioned by the French government and commanded by Nicholas Baudin (1754-1803). On this voyage, which included stops in Mauritius and Tasmania, Freycinet served as a surveyor and was responsible for conducting a thorough cartographic survey of the Australian coast. Upon returning to France years later, he completed a detailed account of the journey begun by the naturalist Françis Péron that was published as Voyage de decouvertes aux Terres Australes between 1807 and 1816. In 1817, Freycinet embarked on the Uranie on a major scientific expedition around the world to record information regarding the geography, meteorology, terrestrial magnetism, ethnology, and indigenous flora and fauna of various locations in the southern hemisphere. Accompanied by the talented artist Jacques Arago, he explored the Sandwich Islands, the Hawaii Islands as well as Rio de Janeiro, the Cape of Good Hope, Tonga, Gibraltar, Tenerife, Mauritius, Timor, Tierra del Fuego, Montevideo, Mauritius, New South Wales, and the Caroline Islands. After being shipwrecked near the Falklands, Freycinet eventually returned to Paris on the Physicienne in 1820, where he published a comprehensive illustrated account of the expedition in a colossal thirteen-volume work entitled Voyage Autor de Monde. The Columbia Encyclopedia, second edition (1950), p. 728; Ferguson 2906b; Hill, p.10 (ref). Bookseller Inventory # 14028

Kamakau, Samuel Manaiakalani
The Works of the People of Old. Bishop Museum Special Publication 61.
Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu.1976

Kamakau, Samuel Manaiakalani
 Tales and Traditions of the People of Old: Na Mo'olelo a ka Po'e Kahiko.
Translated by Mary Kawena Pukui, edited by Dorothy B. Barrère. Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu.1991

NO SURFING

Macrae, James
With Lord Byron at the Sandwich Islands in 1825
The Petroglyph Press, Hawaii, 1972

NO SURFING

NO SURFING.

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who, accompanied by all his principal chiefs, had left his home for the sole purpose of inducing one or more of the missionaries to reside amongst his people. The station and evident sincerity of Tamatoa, and his compatriots who formed this embassy induced the brethren to entertain their proposal. But there were other considerations from which it derived additional weight; especially the position, history, and existing circumstances of the island; and these had considerable influence in determining Mr. Williams's preference for this sphere of labour

page 81
Mr. Williams's communications to the Directors and his family contain other information of a similar kind. From a letter, dated Sept. 5, 1819, he thus reports the progress of the Mission :
" We have opened a neat little place of worship at Tahaa, in a district called Tivaa, and there is 'another erected, which we intend to open shortly, and visit regularly, in the district of Patio, where we expect a congregation of five hundred or six hundred persons. We intend, likewise, to place two of our most intelligent and consistent Raiateans over the school, to which we shall ourselves pay particular attention on our visits. We are all much pleased with the prospect of usefulness which the new station presents to our view
 

page 81
These rapid changes in the circumstances and habits of the people were not less surprising than valuable, as all will admit, who consider their character, prior to the residence of the missionaries among them. Extremely indolent, save when excited by pleasure or passion; the subjects of few artificial wants, and dwelling in a relaxing and luxurious climate, which, in a great degree, relieved them from labour, by supplying, either spontaneously, or with but little cultivation, their necessary food, motives of more than ordinary power were requisite to arouse them to vigorous and persevering exertion. Walking in the steps, and adopting the customs of their ancestors whose dwelling-places they inherited, it was not to be expected that to gratify strangers, or from the hope of benefits which they were unable to appreciate, they would readily change their manner of life. And such a voluntary transition was the less probable, from the congeniality of those habits which they were required to relinquish with their strongest natural propensities. To pluck and eat the ripe fruits of their generous clime, or to slumber in the deep shade of the luxuriant trees upon which they clustered ; to fish or sport within the placid waters of their lagoon; to ride in triumph upon the crested wave ; to race, wrestle, and recite their traditions, or at evening, to mingle in the wild frolic, or the favourite dance were among the chief occupations and enjoyments of their life, except, when inflamed by revenge or stimulated by fear, they girded themselves for the battle. What a task to induce them to exchange such a state, for the patient and continuous labour of acquiring knowledge, and forming habits, the importance of which they could but dimly discern!

But this was accomplished; and by the only means adequate to so great an effect. While presenting every secular motive which the natives could understand to excite them to labour, the missionaries knew well that the force of all such considerations as their personal and domestic comfort, would, if urged alone,
Page 82
be insufficient to overcome the habits and propensities by which they were opposed. But their reliance was not in these. It was in the Gospel. This they deemed " the mighty power of God" for promoting the civilization no less than the salvation of the people; and proceeded upon the belief, which the result of the experiment fully confirmed, that the transformation of the rude and lawless community around them could only be effected by the manifestation of evangelical truth.
 

NO SURFING

Ann Arbor, Michigan: University of Michigan Library
2006

OF WAVES.

A wave of the sea always breaks in front of its base, and that portion of the crest will then be lowest which before was highest.

[Footnote: The page of FRANCESCO DI GIORGIO’S Trattato, on which Leonardo has written this remark, contains some notes on the construction of dams, harbours &c.]

Taken from The Notebooks of Leonardo da Vinci edited by Jean Paul Richter, 1880.
http://www.fromoldbooks.org/Richter-NotebooksOfLeonardo/section-16/item-952.html

Page 102
But they take particular delight in another amusement in the water, called Fumeefoo. They go down to the flat shore, at high water, when the swell rolls with great force to the land, and plunge in and swim some yards into the sea, then pushing themselves on the top of the swell, they ride in, close to the shore. It is astonishing to see with what dexterity they will steer themselves on the wave, one hand being stretched out, as the prow before, and the other guiding them like a rudder behind: and though they are riding in upon the swelling billow, with a frightful rapidity, that makes you apprehend they will be dashed and killed upon the shore, they will, with surprising agility, turn themselves suddenly, on one side, and darting back through the next wave, swim out to sea, till another swell waft them on towards shore; when, if inclined to land, they will again turn themselves on one side, and, awaiting the wave's return, dart through the refluent surge, and reach the shore in safety. Several hours are often spent at one time, in this sport, in which the women are as skilful as the men. I never attempted this diversion myself, as the trial might have been fatal.

This general work on swimming is notable partly for the illustrations of the various patented devices for aiding people to swim. These include flippers for the feet, webbings for the hands and pedal driven propellers.

These are part of the Spalding's Athletic Library.
Speed swimming
http://archive.org/details/speedswimming04dani

Annette Kellermann was born in Sydney in 1886 and learned to swim at Dick Cavill's Baths on Sydney Harbour, near the present site of the Sydney Opera House, and by 1900 she was the champion female swimmer of New South Wales. The family moved to Melbourne, and Annette began to perform in aquatic displays, including high diving performances with Wirth's Olympia, near Prince's Bridge. Stage shows followed and Annette moved to England and Europe. In 1907 she moved to the United States where she continued her stage and exhibition appearances. She married a movie camera-man in 1912 and from 1916 began to appear in movies.

Annette was a celebrity swimmer and, in her book on Physical beauty, stresses the importance of strenuous sport for women,

    I insist that swimming is not only a splendid sport for women but that it is the sport for women - the one sport, in fact, with the possible exception of dancing, in which she can fully compete with men. (p. 85)

Swimming has continued to be a strong Australian sport in the Olympics, the Commonwealth games, and other international competitions.

In 1844 George French Angas (1822-1886) travelled some 800 miles through mainly uncharted territory. Angas's drawings of Maoris in native dress, their houses, totems, ornaments, weapons, wood carvings, funerals, war dances and customs form a record of a civilization that was about to undergo radical changes. Facing each plate, Angas writes interesting details about the portrayed person and his/her role in local life and/or New Zealand society. There are also some plates of New Zealand scenery, vulcanoes, forests, lakes, etc. The work contains an engraved dedication to Prince Albert, a six-page introduction of the main customs, and a list of subscribers. It was originally published in ten parts between 1846 and 1847.

http://www.archive.org/stream/putnamsmagazine00projgoog/putnamsmagazine00projgoog_djvu.txt

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Deck and Port:
Incidents of a Cruise in the United States Frigate CongressNCIDENTS OF A CRUISE
to California with Sketches of Rio Janeiro, Valparaiso, Lima, Honolulu and San Francisco.

Rev. Walter Coulton, U.S.N.,

A. S. Barnes and Company, 51 and 53 John Street, New York, 1850.

Page 13

While enjoying the luxury of sea-bathing at Sachem's Head, I received an order to report for duty on board the U. S. Frigate Congress, fitting for sea at Norfolk.
Departed Saturday; Oct. 25, 1845.

CHAPTER XI. SKETCHES OF HONOLULU.

Page 328
(Arrival in Honolulu)

Wednesday, June 10.
The bay of Honolulu is only a bend in the shore.
About a mile from the strand, a coral reef emerges, over which the rollers pour their perpetual surge.
Through this reef, nature has left a narrow passage, which admits smaller vessels, but a ship of our depth is obliged to anchor outside, and nearly two miles distant from the shore.

The right extremity of the bay, as you enter it, is guarded by the steep cone of an exhausted volcano, which has taken the less terrific name of Diamond Hill.
The left is defended by a bold bluff, which shoulders its way, with savage ferocity, into the roaring sea.
The town of Honolulu stretches along the interval, while close in the background soars the wild crater of another extinguished volcano, under the bewildering name of the Punch-Bowl.
The steeps beyond are broken into deep ravines, which wind off in rich verdure into the heart of the island
 

Page 339

We passed near the shore a large number of canoes, in which the natives were engaged in fishing.
They keep them pointed towards the sea, and one person vigorously at work with the paddles, so that the rollers, which set in here with great force, may ...

Page 340

... not heave them high and dry on the beach.
They show great skill in the management of these treacherous canoes.
A novice would upset one before he was well in.
They are often themselves capsized, but it costs them only a ducking; the canoe is instantly righted, and they are back again in its hollow.
As for the water, it is almost as much their element as that of the fish for which they angle.
They can dive from ten to fifteen fathoms, and bring up shells; or swim many miles without apparent fatigue. There is a native woman, now living in Honolulu, who, being wrecked at sea, swam twenty miles to the shore of a neighboring island.
Her husband, of feebler constitution, gave out; she buoyed him up, swimming with him till they had come in sight of the shore, when he sank overpowered.
Still she clung to him, and brought the lifeless form to the beach.
Give me a kanacka wife in a gale.

Page 348
Chapter XII. Sketches of Honolulu.
Surf Sport of the Natives.

Thursday, June 18 (1846)

Page 352
Nothing here has amused me more than the surfsports of the young chiefs. Each takes a smooth board, of some eight feet in length, leads it over the coral shallows far out into the sea, and when a tremendous roller is coming in, jumps upon it, and the roller carries him upon its combing top, with the speed of an arrow, to the shore. A young American, who was among them, not liking to be outdone in a sport which seemed so simple, thought he would ...

Page 353
try the board and billow. He ventured out a short distance, watched his opportunity, and, as the roller came, jumped upon his plank, was capsized, and hove, half strangled, on the beach.

" There, breathless, -with his digging nails he clung
Fast to the sand, lest the returning wave,
From whose reluctant roar his life he wrung,
Should suck him back to her insatiate grave."

The young females are as fond of the water as the men. We passed in a boat yesterday a group of them sitting on the coral reef a mile out at sea. They were enjoying the surf, which broke over them with each successive billow. Now and then a stronger, wave would sweep some of them from their perch, and bear them to a great distance in its whirling foam. But they would soon swim back again amidst the laughter of their companions. They were without covering, and plunged under the water till our boat had got past, and then recovered their posi-, tion on the reef; and there they sat like mermaids,

Serene amid the breakers' roar,
Their dark locks floating on the surge,
Attuning shells, through which they po"ur
The solemn ocean's mimic dirge.

Departed Honolulu Tuesday, June 23.

Volume 1
Page 33
CHAPTER IV.

STEER CLOSE ON THE WIND FOR THE COAST OF AMERICA. SIGHT

CAPE BLANCHO, THE SOUTHERN POINT OF GULF OF GUAYA

QUILL. ANCHOR AT TACAMES. — MELANCHOLY NEWS.— SHIP

CHARLES'OF LONDON. HER CAPTAIN AND SURGEON DROWNED.

ASPECT OF THE LAND FROM ANCHORAGE. HEAVY BREAKERS IN-SHORE. — OUR LANDING. — DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN

OF TACAMES.

Page 38

The spot on which the town is situated is low: I may say scarcely raised above the level of the sea; but at the back of it and all round inland the hills tower one above the other in strange irregularity, and with original picturesque effect. In every direction that the eye may wander, even to the hilly summits, is one dense forest of the most luxuriant appearance; the variety in the colour of the foliage is really enchanting to gaze upon, but the chief mass of it is of a bright green. In approaching the beach fronting the town, for half a mile from the shore, there is to be passed through a surf of a very formidable kind: it begins to rise high a long distance out, and breaks with roaring fury several times before it scatters itself on the beach, and great care must be DESCRIPTION OF TACAMES. 39

taken by any boat's crew going through it, to avoid the disaster that proved so fatal to poor Butcher and his surgeon.

There ought to be a stout experienced man at the steer-oar, as everything then depends in keeping the boat right before the breakers, or straight against them, in effecting a landing or coming off again. Well, we foamed through those breakers in a very dashing manner, and effected our landing with only a fair sprinkling of the surf that boiled high around us.
 

Trifin ad and SURFSTRAP

Downes, Jim
ROYAL LIFE The Royal Life Saving Society Australia 1894 - 1994. a History of the Royal Life Saving Society - Australia
Royal Life Saving Society Australia, Sydney, 1994.

Tabulo, Tom
The Pacific Surf Life Saving Club : the first forty years : 1947-1987
McMahons Point, N.S.W. : Weldons, c1987.

"King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV had absolute rule for more than 40 years. It was in 1967 after the death of Queen Salote that the new King inherited the loyalty that the people had shown for his mother.
The King was quite an athlete in his earlier days as a proficient pole-vaulter, cricketer, and rugby player. He was also credited with introducing surfing to his island home."
http://hubpages.com/hub/My-Visit-to-the-King

http://www.bridgemanart.com/
Image ID: STC 444657

Credit: Madras Landing, engraved by C. Hunt, published by Ackermann & Co., 1856 (aquatint), East, J.B. (19th century) (after) / Private Collection / The Stapleton Collection / The Bridgeman Art Library

http://www.bridgemanart.com/
Image ID: STC 439580

http://www.bridgemanart.com/
Image ID: STC 136986

Masulas and large surf

Credit: Madras, or Fort St. George, in the Bay of Bengal - A Squall Passing Off, 1833 (oil on canvas), Daniell, William (1769-1837) / Yale Center for British Art, New Haven, USA / The Bridgeman Art Library

http://www.bridgemanart.com/
Image ID: XYC 198548
or
Image ID:XYC 185487
Very large swell, cataraman and damaged masulas

Credit: Madras, from 'India Ancient and Modern', 1867 (colour litho), Simpson, William 'Crimea' (1823-99) / Private Collection / The Stapleton Collection / The Bridgeman Art Library

http://www.bridgemanart.com/
Image ID: STC 418242

Loading malusas and man "standing" in surf, left foreground. 

Surfing. Original artwork for cover of Playhour issue of 1 June 1957. Lent for scanning by the Illustration Art Gallery.

Playhour Annual 1957
 Amalgamated Press Ltd, 1957.

http://www.bridgemanart.com/
NGE 387543

No content

books.google.com.au/books?id=DKYBAAAAQAAJ
Page 216; 398
Tana- page 353

Page 411 "...sporting themselves in the surf"
Sandwich Islands Chapter XII, page 378

Vol 2 ?????????????
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=TF4SAAAAYAAJ

Skin canoe and reed raft page 47
Skin boat page 55-56

Townsend was with Captain Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth's second expedition with the Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company. Townsend also records two trips to Hawaii in 1835 and 1836

Waikik- page 29
Kauai Seashore foraging- page 60
Columbia River, Eight hawaiians +one white + one indian shoot rapids in canoe, eight deaths- page?

NO SURFING

http://archive.org/details/voyageroundworld00roqurich
NO CONTENT

E.G. House for the author,, Boston:, 1817. First edition. 8vo, 598pp, b&w plates, folding chart.
An interesting account whose Pacific landfalls include Australia, New Guinea, Pitcairn Island, the Galapagos, Palau, Hawaii, Manila, Canton, Macao & the East Indies. His account of the Bounty was the first published in America & was the source for Melville's "Benito Cerino". His account of the Bounty was the first published in America.
No content, Volume 1

Sketches of California and Hawaii
by William H. Meyers, gunner, U.S.N., aboard the United States sloop-of-war, Cyane, 1842-1843. With an introd. & notes by John Haskell Kemble.
Published 1970 by Book Club of California in [San Francisco] .
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 Again in Hawaii / by Julius A. Palmer, jr. ... February-May, 1895.
Boston, : Lee and Shepard, 1895.  xv, 44 p. ; 24 cm.
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surfresearch.com.au

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